[MODERATOR'S NOTE: I suggest that further discussion on I^2R (I squared R) heating and fuse ratings be taken offline. Let's keep the list helpful and constructive.] Yes, I respect everyones opinion, but it doesn't mean were always going to agree. Go out to your late model car and unplug the alternator and you will find in most cases electrical grease. High voltage,low voltage,high current,low current it's used everywhere and anywhere and I have never seen a car catch on fire from grease. But I have seen them catch on fire from using gasoline. I to think it's time to discuss electronics in the De Lorean. Lucas designed the wiring in the car that seems to work quite well. I very seldom hear anyone saying to much about how the car is wired. I very seldom hear about the wires burning up unless there is a problem. The problem that I can see is what Lucas puts on the ends of the wire. Amp makes some of the best connectors in the world and the De Lorean has them all over the car. Bosch also makes great parts and they to are all over the car. The problems we all keep talking about are under rated items such as Relays, fuses, fuse holder so on. It's very simple for those that don't understand, current draw and voltage and the ratings of the items used. If you want to use a 40 amp fuse in the fan circuit then do so. But if the motors burn up because it took to long to blow, then you can blame it on some else. I chose to make the product fit the application. I use 15Amp fuses in my Fan Fail Fix because the fans draw 14 amp ea.and it offers maxium protection. They will blow quicker and won't over heat unless something else is wrong. Some people can't stand it if someone else comes up with a new idea such as The Fan Fix. It's so simple it hurts and it's a plug in and addresses more than one problem with the car. If De Lorean would have used the right component and if people understood inductive load vs resistive load and De Lorean/Lucas used the right product for the right application then their wouldn't be The Fan Fix, The Fan Fail Fix , The Fan Zilla or any other Zilla product. We would have a 200 HP std engine or better. I hope the poor sole who comes up with a simple solution for HP that doesn't cost $7000.00 keeps his mouth shut. Instead of people on this group encouring people to come up with a better mouse trap, this group can't wait to criticize someone because they did something simple that works and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Another example The De Lorean 140 alternator I build. With the exception of one alignment problem, reported they work fine, sold several and everyone seems to be happy and they don't cost $350.00 for an alternator. If your not happy I will refund your money. In closing, I think this group including me should encourage change and people who want to take on the task, not sit back complain. Other people and shops are doing it or they wouldn't be coming out with new and better product. I would also like to thank Knut for his reply. I see very little of this to anyone trying to help. DMCJOE, hats off, Walter, always a new twist, David, great opinions. I have learned a lot from this group. I still Fix parts. Sincerely John --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > I think it's really creative for us on the list to discuss different > ways to compensate for the shortcommings of these 2 major areas of the > car's electronics. While some of the fixes are "interesting" many > people on the list are not mechanics or electricians. They are > looking for something that is simple to install and reliable. Instead > of trying to reinvent the wheel the Zilla line of products is exactly > what the car needs.There is something to be said for a standard fix so > that it would be easy for someone else to troubleshoot.If you build > your own fix then pity the next owner or mechanic to try to figure out > what was done.In addition to a "non standard fix" most people are > notoriously bad when it comes to documentation. All one has to do is > see a few of the "fixes" in the fuel pump circuit because the person > didn't understand the inertia switch or RPM relay.If you have not yet > installed the Lockzilla or Fanzilla you should. At some point your fix > WILL fail or your origional parts will fail and the price for the > Zillas will seem small compared to the aggrivation, towing, collateral > damage etc. on a second subject I have been using an eastwood product > called "KOPR-SHIELD". I can't yet say it is the answer to bad contacts > in the fuse block but I haven't had any problems yet. I suppose the > best protection is to keep the contacts clean and TIGHT. If the > contacts are not tight then a vicious circle of events occurs. The > hotter the contacts get the less tension on the connecters the less > tension the more heat until events run away and you have a melt- down. > The first sign might be a smell.It would be very prudent to keep a > small fire extingwisher in the event of the unthinkable. On a recent > trip with another "D" his fan relay bypass wire melted and lead to a > few scary moments. Fortunatly there was no damage and we repaired it > temporarlay so he could drive home. The bypass wire was supposed to be > a temporary fix untill the factory could do better 18 years ago! How > many cars are out there running on the origional fan relay or the > bypass wire? The first thing a new owner should do is get the relay > and circuit breaker upgrades and 2 Zillas. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 YES I have installed the Zillas and they are GREAT