To properly check the source of the current drain put an ammeter on the battery positive connection and observe the total current draw. Now one at a time pull fuses. You will find that there is draw from more than 1 fuse but the major amount will be drawn by #12 the door and interior light circuit. Typically 10 m.a. is considered normal for a car sitting, it will take a month to discharge a good fully charged battery. Normal on a Delorean is usually quite a bit more. The cause is the many diodes in circuit #12. It is true that a diode is like a "check valve" but it is a leaky one. Each one adds up to a large cumulative effect.They can also fail by getting more leaky not just open or shorted. If you are confident that you have a good battery(load test it) and that all of your electrical connections are good then the problem most likely is in circuit #12. If the battery is more than 4-5 years old and it has spent it's life 1/2 in storage and 1/2 being used it is probably not able to provide full capacity and a load test will show it. Also if there is a problem in the charging circuit and the battery is always undercharged it will shorten the life of the battery. Another source of this problem are the door switches. There is a rubber tip on them and with age or maybe it's no longer there the switch can make contact even with the doors closed. With the interior lights off you wouldn't see the door lights still on. The ultimate solution is to install a master switch with a bypass fused wire to the clock. Then at shows the doors can be left open and you don't have to worry about the battery. It is also a good theft deterrent if you get the one with a removable key.Most people unfamiliar with a Delorean would never find the battery let alone the master switch.If you have a measurable current in the door lock circuit there is a problem, it should not have a measurable draw. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 and yes I have a master switch with clock bypass. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx> wrote: > Because I have a daily driver DeLorean in addition to my new one that I'm > restoring, my good DMC doesn't get out much during these rainy winter months > (I'm in Oregon, so it gets pretty sloppy around here this time of year). > I've been a little curious about the gradual battery discharge that our cars > seem to be so susceptible to, so I did a little investgating last weekend. > > It is well known that the console clock and radio consume a trickle of > current. However, when pulling the radio fuse there is still a slight power > drain (at least on my cars). In fact, after pulling all the fuses my cars > still have a power drain from the batter of around 11mA. This isn't very > much, but is sufficient to slowly degrade a battery over time. > > In trying to track down this power trickle, what I found was that the door > lock module on my car draws the additional 11mA of current. I haven't > disassembled or reverse-engineered the module yet to understand why it draws > a trickle current, but it appears to do so. I'm not sure if the LockZilla > similarly draws a trickle current as I only have stock door lock modules in > my cars. > > If you suffer from inexplicable battery drain for a car that's stored for > periods, the door lock module appears to be one of the contributors to the > problem. I still need to recheck my measurements this weekend, but it > appears that removing the clock/radio fuse and unplugging the door lock > module may be sufficient to avoid battery drain without the need for > installation of battery cutoff switches, trickle chargers, etc. > > Knut