Re: Question on A/C system
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Re: Question on A/C system



Many shops use shop compressed air but the better ones will use 
nitrogen. Pressurize the system and then go around with a solution of 
soapy water on all of the joints. Listen for hissing at the compresser 
and it is not uncommon for a hose to rupture internaly. Check the 
input fitting of the condenser coil ( the one in front) Do not run the 
system without freon. After finding and fixing the leak you must 
replace the dryer and evacuate the system for at least 1/2 hour. I 
recommend refilling with R-12. Many of the "drop-in" replacements have 
propane or butane in them and you can imagine the excitement you will 
have if you have a leak and it should ignite.Although R-12 is 
expensive replacing it won't cost that much more considering all of 
the other work that will need to be done.At about $20 a pound you only 
need less than 3 pounds.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all, I was wondering if someone out there with A/C system 
> knowledge can give me some advice. The A/C system on my car has 
> been "dry" for some time now (don't know how long) where as all the 
> freon was out. I am assuming there is a leak somewhere. There was no 
> hint of pressure at all when I was taking it apart. Here are my 
> questions:
> 
> 1. What should I suspect/check on my system that would go bad from 
it 
> being dry for some time now?
> 
> 2. Is the new "legal" freon as cold as the old stuff? I have only 
> dealt with the older stuff so I can't compare the two.
> 
> 3. Can I check for leaks in the system without charging it with 
> freon? I know that there are special UV Dyes out there you can 
inject 
> into the system and use a black light to track the leak. Can I use 
> this without charging the system or do I have to charge it so I can 
> run the A/C to find the leak?
> 
> Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
> 
> Steve






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