Re: New custom shocks
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: New custom shocks



I just got the car back on the ground today and test drove it with the new
shocks on the rear only. I kept telling myself that probably any difference
that I would feel would be too subjective to tell. Well, not so. The new
shocks made a noticeable difference. I don't think my old shocks were bad.
I was just tired of being beaten up by every little bump in the road. I
don't notice any difference in handling except for having the 'rough edges'
smoothed off of most of the bumps.

There is a schrader valve on the bottom of the shocks just like on a car
tire where you can adjust the pressure in them. I suppose you could use
compressed air, but I would only use dry nitrogen for these. Don't hold me
to the numbers because my memory isn't that good, but I think Rob said the
shocks come pre-charged with 175 psi dry nitrogen. This is supposed to be
the minimum for that type of design. They can be charged up to 250 psi
which would probably give a ride as hard as the OEM shocks or worse.

The internal spring compressor I bought from NAPA to replace the front
springs won't work on the rear springs/shocks since you have to compress the
springs externally before the shocks can be removed. I checked around for a
source to buy an external spring compressor, and Pep Boys offered to loan me
one for free! All I had to do was give them a $50 deposit which I got back
when I returned the tool. That was nice of them. :)

The compressor comes in two mirror image pieces -- one for the right side of
the spring, the other for the left. The problem is that there isn't much
room to hook the things up -- let alone trying to have them 180° apart. It
took me 3 tries to successfully compress the spring on one side and two
tries to get it right on the other side. If you use this method to compress
the springs, I highly recommend tightening it with an air-impact wrench like
the directions recommend. I thought I would have better control if I did it
by hand, but quickly realized that it would take all day. So I got the
air-impact wrench out. While I had those springs compressed, I felt like I
was holding a cocked and loaded gun to my face. If something slips, there
is probably enough force in those springs to take your head off. Also be
sure that you have a torque wrench to tighten everything back to specs.
Don't let this scare you off from trying it. It's just a matter of
following directions in the Delorean Worship Manual. Ahem, excuse me, I
mean the Workshop manual.

If I had it to do over again, I would look into trying the type of spring
compressor that looks like a big duck bill / clothes pin. I think something
like that would work easier as long as the shocks don't get in the way. It
took me about 3 hours to do the first side and about an hour to do the other
side. Practice helps.

If you install these shocks, be sure you put the cup & spring on BEFORE you
connect and torque the top of the shock body to the car. Unlike the OEM
shocks, the 'clamp' that fits on the shock body is a solid ring that won't
slip over the bottom of the shock because the schrader valve is in the way.
I learned this the hard way.

Walt Tampa, FL







Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN 


Copyright ProjectVixen.com. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive

This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated