Be careful in any attempt to direct more air to the rotors. In some cases doing so could also direct more water at the brakes when it rains and you wouldn't want to do that. If you want to upgrade your brake system fix the pulsating pedal, replace the hoses with steel braided, get the cross-drilled rotors, and flush with Castrol GTLMA dot 4 brake fluid. If that isn't enough then don't ride with your foot on the brakes! Good practice reqires torquing the lugnuts to the proper torque per application (in this case #60 ft. lbs.) and alternating the tightening. At higer levels of torque sometimes you go halfway and then repeat at full torque and again after 50 miles of driving.You cannot measure torque by untorqueing a bolt, the breakaway torque changes everything, try it sometime by torqueing a bolt and then loosing it. Some torque wrenchs specificaly warn against torqueing "left handed". What warps rotors is inducing a stress by uneven torqueing and then overheating the rotors. The front rotors are prone to this because they are not "ventilated" ie: they don't have ribs separating the faces. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put vents in the front brake > rotor dust shields?