Re: [DML] Hotstart Electrical problem

["Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxx>]

Absolutely had the identical problem. The car would run (in Massachusetts
winter) for ten to fifteen minutes, then die sometimes while running, or
would not start after a five or ten minute run into a store or whatever.
The car would not start for about two hours when the outside temperature was
about 20 degrees F. After it cooled down it would start and run for another
ten minutes.

I could not believe that a bad coil (the goofy cheap one in the
distributor, a real pain to replace) was only a bad coil when hot. Once I
replaced it, everything was back to normal.

Good luck,

Mike.


-----Original Message-----
From: gschroe@xxxx <gschroe@xxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: [DML] Hotstart Electrical problem


>I have been chasing a hotstart problem in my DMC vin 716, for some
>time. Suffice it to say, the car runs for a few miles, stalls, and
>won't start until it is cold, 2-4+ hours later. Usually the stall
>occurs as I am slowing for a corner or a stop, but this has occured
>also while the car is sitting still and running.
>
>While inspecting my fuel supply suffice it to say I found initial
>problems and decided to change out the fuel pump, repair a totally
>loose pickup in my fuel tank (See the PS below for info on a great
>way to re-attach the bolt holding the fuel pickup to the tank
>bottom), and replaced the fuel filter all as part of my general 20
>year maintenance and upkeep plan. But to no real avail. Upon
>further inspection, I discovered during one of these hot start events
>that the car was actually loosing spark. I verified this using a
>timimg light, and when the car failed, from that point on I had no
>timing light signal when recranking the engine, until it cooled
>down.
>
>I verified that I have power to the Postive coil terminal when the
>key is on, both when the car won't start and when it does (In the
>hotstart problem or under regular conditions). I don't expect this
>is a coil problem (but it's easier to change then the induction coil)
>so I will try a different coil this evening for grins).
>
>I suspect this may actually be an Induction Coil problem (located in
>the bottom of the distributor), and I tested across the leads from
>this Induction coil (this connector penetrates the firewall on the
>lower driver side into the compartment where the driving computer is)
>while the car was failing, and I got no reading (an open) on the ohm
>meter at that time. I understand that a properly performing
>induction coil should not read open when tested. I did not have the
>opportunity to test my induction coil again after the car sat, but I
>will perform this test this evening.
>
>I have also heard that induction coil problems cause the car to start
>just as the tow truck driver arrives, which is very close to the
>situation I am faced. It is just not the easiest item to get to and
>replace, so I am asking for input or advice from anyone who has had
>or heard of a similar instance. Help! and Thanks!
>
>
>
>PS: To reattach the unattached bolt (that holds the fuel pickup
>assembly) to the bottom of the DRY!!! gas tank. First: Empty the gas
>tank (duh) and let the tank completely dry out. Remove the bolt from
>the fuel pickup, clean it extremly well, and connect this unattached
>bolt to a 1/4 inch rod (12"-18" long) using a long nut coupler that
>is readily available at any hardware store. Using a propane torch
>(well away from any gas or car for that matter) heat the unattached
>bolt 20 - 30 seconds (not red hot damn hot) and quickly insert the
>bolt at the end of this rod back into the tank and press it (melt it)
>back into the bottom of the tank near the original location. I did
>not locate it in exactly the same location, since I felt the tank was
>thinner at that location, and I didn't want to melt through the
>tank. I practiced on the side of a plastic bucket a few times, but
>found the tank to be able to handle heat better then the bucket.
>Push it into the tank until the top of the washer like end of the
>bolt melts itself flush with the plastic. The holes will fill with
>melted plastic like small rivets, and it holds well. You want to go
>just deep enough to get this rivet action and be even with the tank
>surface, no deeper. Have a small wet rag avail to stop the melting
>if necessary. I had (but didn't need) a glass of water available.
>In the end I needed a glass of beer, but it was way easier then I
>imagined, and much easier and inexpensive then changing out a good
>gas tank.
>
>It sounds a bit strange, but when I was through I had a strong
>attachment, and the realization that this was most likely how the
>original attachment was made in the tank during production.
>questions, send me an email!
>
>
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>Orig-Nut- 1/4 rod
>Part
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