Joe, et al - I have the factory original tires with vary little tread left. The car has almost 12K miles on it now. I got under the front and greased the king pins top and bottom. I found fittings for those, but the tie-rod ends have no grease fittings. My experience with other cars is that the manufactures often get cheap and don't use steering parts that can be greased. I've heard of people taking them apart, drilling/taping holes and adding grease fittings or replacing the whole piece with a higher quality new piece that uses a grease fitting. Do you have any opinion on doing this with a Delorean? So far, the only parts that I am aware of that use grease fittings on the Delorean is the king pins (one on top, one on bottom for the front wheels.) Are there any others that I am missing, such as on the rear some place? Apparently the suspension on my car got some front-end damage before I got it. The right front rim has a rub on it like it struck a curb pretty hard. It did not dent the rim, but it took some metal off of it. There is some similar damage to the other side, but not near as bad. The guy who runs the shop who is selling me after market rims told me that my OEM rims are easily repairable. It involves building up the scratched area with welding and then machining it back down flush with the rest of the rim. Any opinions on having this done? I put about 2500 miles on the car before I realized how far off the alignment was. With the steering wheel straight, the left front was fine, but the right front was toe out several degrees and both front tires were wearing heavily on the outer edges. I re-aligned the front myself by adjusting the right wheel only to bring it in to match the 3 degree toe-in of the left wheel. I drove all the way to 'A day in the doors' and back without any noticeable wear on the tires, so apparently I did a good alignment job. I intend to have the whole car professionally aligned once I get the new tires/rims put on with new front springs & shocks. I need to get busy and order the shocks from Marty I suppose. I'm not too crazy about Marty's method of attaching a slip ring to the rear shock body, but at least what he has is adjustable. As you know, Byrne Heninger's rear shock kit isn't adjustable, and being the Libra that I am, I like adjustment and balance. The driver's side of my car sits about 1/2 inch lower than the right, so I want to be able to correct for this if necessary when I replace the rear shocks. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? What would cause this? Uneven rear springs? Would it be beneficial to put my old OEM front springs on the rear and raise it up using Marty's adjustable shock collars? The dealer whom I bought the car from told me a long story about how some photographer wanted to use the car in some crazy BTTF photo shoot. The dealer couldn't legally rent the car as a driver, so the only way he would let the photographer use the car is if it were towed everywhere it went. The price paid for a few days rental was $1000. It sounds like a tall tale to me, but that's what I was told by the seller. Anyway, I'm wondering if with all this towing, front end misalignment and front rim damage that perhaps I could have a damaged steering rack. From the external symptoms, it would make sense that any damage to the rack is one of stretching or elongation of about 1/4" on the right side. The tie rods look nice and straight. After I adjusted the alignment, there wasn't much thread left exposed on the right tie-rod. I didn't adjust the left. It seems to me that any deformities that could have happened are hidden in the steering rack where they are not visible. Should I take this apart and check it? And if so, what should I look for? Also, I sometimes get steering wheel pulsation on heavy breaking. I'm suspicious that one or more of my break rotors are warped. Do you think this problem could be related to my suspension damage? I'm wondering if I should have the warped rotors turned or if I should replace them. The photocopied '94 vintage D1 catalog that came with the car has various break parts colored with a highlighting marker. I'm curious to call them with my VIN and ask what they know about the car, but from past experiences, unfortunately, I know better than to even try. I have an idea for an interesting 'stiff steering' diagnostic. What do you think of putting the front end of the car in the air, pulling the center hub off the steering wheel and turning the wheel by the center nut with a torque wrench to measure exactly how much force is required to turn the wheel. It might be useful for other people to have knowledge of average steering stiffness measurements to know if their car is harder to turn than average. What do you think? It could also be a good way to measure front end play. Apparently, my car has none. If there isn't enough resistance to measure with the car in the air, then how about parked on loose sand. I don't think concrete would give a good standard of measurement. Spoken like a true Libra, Walt Tampa, FL Delorean mechanic apprentice