Exactly, It's ST-31-12/81 Funny thing, though. I don't see it in the spiral bound book of service bulletins. Are there other service bulletins like this that are missing from the 'official' book of service bulletins? For the rest of y'all, the 'template' I mentioned is really a fixture like a lock. You install it like a lock and it has grooves in it to help position to make cuts in the door for the new style lock. Even if I had such a fixture, I doubt I would bother with it. I think such a thing wouldn't last long unless you are very precise with a file. And I suppose it goes without saying that my shipments came in from PJ Grady. I'll see the lock smith tomorrow to see if he can figure out how to key these new locks to match my ignition key. I took them apart to see how hard it would be, and it appears that if I don't want to cut new pieces out of some brass stock, then I better let a professional do it. Too bad I just can't go to my local hardware store and buy a kit of such lock pieces. At one time you could do that, but the industry has gotten a bit more snobby since then. It would have been nice if the new locks came with a key that fits them. Then I would only have to re-key my ignition lock. But then my original DMC logo locks wouldn't fit anymore, and I shouldn't get into the steering column if I don't have to. My ignition key inserts into the new locks fine. It's the proper blank and all. I'm just concerned that the positioning of the flat spots on the key won't properly line up with the new locks. The whole idea of getting such expensive locks is to be able to make them match the ignition. At worst, I might have to take my ignition lock out and have the lock smith work a compromise between the two. But don't let my opinion here scare you off from buying new locks. I'm not a professional lock smith, so I'm really not qualified to give an opinion --- yet. I'll keep y'all posted as to how things work out. Walt Tampa, FL