You need to troubleshoot three fuel subsystems. They are 1) the lambda enrichment system (should here the frequency valve buzzing like a mad cricket with the motor running) 2) the cold start valve ( If the motor runs good hot it probably has a problem) 3) the idle motor circuit (make sure it has power and the idle switch is working, check it with a meter) If these hints don't help check for a vacum leak ie; a disconnected hose, loose fittings, etc. also there are 3 adjustment screws on the metering body MAKE SURE THEY ARE PROPERLY SET and that there is a plug in the metering body over the mixture screw. David Teitelbaum Vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Rory A. Robinson" <rorx77@xxxx> wrote: > Help! I'm back and ready to get 3010 on the road. She will start just > fine, but stalls after 15-20sec of idle. When i try to push on the > accelerator it cuts out even faster. I don't have to push on the gas > pedal to start her. cranks up fine idles great for 10-15 sec and > shudders to a halt. Have installed new rpm relay and thermotime > switch. Have checked fuel tank, pump works fine,but has some peeling > metal flakes on the body and the fuel is reddish color. The hose > running from pump to bottom of tank has rubber flakes peeling off of > it. Also the metal tube along side the pump is kinked alittle and > kind of corroeded. My "D" is a 1981 5-speed with 21,000. The previous > owner stated that he had replaced everything from tank inside and > out. please help, is my fuel system contaminated? Do i need to start > from scratch and replace the whole system? > > THANX > RORY > VIN 3010