Brian, The problem is probably at the fan fail module socket, fan relay socket, or the circuit breaker. With the cool fan switch (otterstadt) jumped, check and see if you have 12 volts at the heavy brown/orange wire leading the blue socket. Let me know the result. Here are the answers to your other questions. The cooling fans receive ground through the wiring harness. The fan rotation is such that air moves from the front of the car to the rear. 12V cooling fan power is supplied through two separate feed wires which are part of the front wiring harness. We have no record of any type of failure with this wire. "We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland! DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . ----- Original Message ----- From: Lynn Metz <metzlynn@xxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 7:13 AM Subject: Re: [DML] cooling fans > DMC Joe: > Sorry, I took a few days to respond, I was trying various things. Here is > what I have found: (1)the temp switch and the switch from the A/C both seem > to be working fine. (2)The two fuses are both good. (3)I get power to the > fuses when I jump the temp switch or turn on A/C. (4)The fans work when 12 > Volts are put to them. There is no power to the plug that goes into the > fan. (5) there is no power prior to the connector that has the built in > condensor. (6) the wires are b/g that leave the fuse block area (as noted in > manual). > > From this I guess that there is a break in a wiring somewhere. However, the > car was just sitting in the garage and the cooling fans worked one day and > not the next. Also, it appears that each fan has its own power lead. So, > it seems odd that while just sitting both power wires could "go bad". > > QUESTIONS: Do both fans share the same ground? If so, losing the ground > could kill both fans. If so, where should I look for the problem? How can > I check to see that voltage is making it out of the blue socket, after the > fuses but before the fan connector? Is there an area where any of these > wires commonly get pinched that I should check first? Finally, when the > fans do come on, which direction should they spin? Do they push air over > the radiator or do they pull air through the radiator? > All help is appreciated. > Thanks, Brian 16584 > > > > >The first item to check is to be sure that you have 12 volts at the cooling > >fan (blue) socket and by-pass fuses. Let me know the result of your test. > > > >"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland! > > > >DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxx> > >Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> > > > > > Well, I now have one of the normal problems - my cooling fans. It > >appears that they stopped coming on yesterday. (There were fine 2 days > >ago.) I just replaced the temp. sensor and I know it is OK. The fans used > >to come on before the temp gauge hit half way. Yesterday, it went over > >half way up. When I jumped the switch, I could hear a clicking (assume > >this is the relay trying to engage) but the fans won't come on. Then, when > >I plug the wires back onto the switch, I hear the clicking again. So, the > >switch is fine. My car has the wired modification upgrade with 2 fuses (no > >fanzilla). The fuses are good. Where should I start? Can I check for > >voltage at the fans themselves? I don't think both fans went bad at the > >same time. What else could it be besides a wiring problem? Need to get > >this fixed before Cleveland.