I went thru the same thing last year, and was able to replace almost all of the hardware with stainless equivalent with parts from Ace Hardware, of all places. SS hardware is usually much more expensive than standard, but really in the scheme of things not a bad deal. You don't need a conversion chart, just take your old stuff in and match it up. Most everything is metric, usually 4, 5, or 6 mm. Screws are designated in mm diameter x mm length, for example M6x40 means 6 mm diameter and 40 mm long. Nuts are just the diameter, for example M6. Things to be careful of: ---ALWAYS use anti-sieze compount on any stainless hardware that you screw into the aluminum riv-nuts in the body. Stainless will essentially weld itself to aluminum in the presence of moisture. Actually anti-sieze compound is almost always a good idea. ---Pay careful attention to the strength rating on the screws. Most of what you are working on is not high-strength applications, but avoid using standard strength stuff on suspension parts, for example. Most of the stainless available is graded 8.8, fine for all the facia and radiator support stuff; ---Most of the small nuts in the DMC are Nyloc nuts, rather than conventional nuts and lockwashers. Another great resource for the really odd hardware (Fuel tank lower cover bolts and washers for example) is a place called Totally Stainless (www.totallystainless.com). They were amused that I was buying stainless hardware to use on my stainless car, most of what they do is for the street rod crowd. Not as cheap as Ace, but they did have more selection, and a great catalog. Takes a little more planning. Dave >From: Jonathan Miller <betaray@xxxx> >Subject: Hardware (was: Facia Removal) >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:23:47 -0600 (CST) . . . >I've noticed that alot of my hardware is completely rusted out. Does any >know if one of our fine parts dealers sells stainless nuts, bolts, etc? Or >possible has a conversion table so that I can find out my own >hardware. E.g. M6 = x size, x length, etc. Thanks, Jonathan