DMC Joe wrote: > From: "DMC Joe" > Subject: [DML] Re: NLT-DMC = No Longer Totally Disassembled Motor Car > > It looks like you have done your homework.I was a little surprised on > the > sacristy of talk about the electrical system. > > The DeLorean electrical system had hundreds of production changes that > were > never documented. Much of the information that did make it to print, > is > incomplete or, in some cases, incorrect. For example, with the > exception of > the master wiring schematic, there is no information on the wiring of > the > main relay section. Have you planned on how you will handle this and > other electrical mysteries. Well, that's a very good question Joe. At this stage, there's simply no way to test the electrics. I plan to do so "on the Fly", as I get to the point where I can even hook up a battery. Fortunately for me, the previous owner left the electrical connections to the relay box intact. It's the only thing besides the pedal box assembly that he didn't take apart. (Yes, he even disassembled the alternator...) Speaking of the pedal box, do the wiring connectors for the binnacle run -completely- through the channel on the top of the pedal box, from the firewall all the way through, or do they enter from the oval access hole on the right side? Just a side note for those who have been in the same boat, or pontoon, I should say... Rivnuts are a pain in the wazoo. Only 3 of the access panel bolts in the luggage compartment came free, the rest are either stripped or frozen. I spent a lot of time with a Dremel tonight cutting slots in the top of the bolts, and slowly working them loose with a screwdriver and a pair of vice-grips. Having the body separated from the frame, I really have no need to go through the access panels to get to anything, but ya' always have to think of the future. Another common question about my 12-step plan, was why I would want to reattach the body to the frame so quickly. The answer is, I have a one-car garage, and no room to store the pontoon body while I work on the frame. I've managed to get enough clearance between the two to attach the lines by placing 2x4 wedges between the body and the frame. It's workable, but mighty tight. -Dave dave.stragand@xxxx #5927