Can anyone tell me why my # 7 fuse suffered heat damage? I suspect the inertia switch or the RPM relay. Me car wouldn't start last week (a silent fuel pump) until I started to dinker around with these two items. The button on the inertia switch would not stay up, so I knew something was amiss, but there where no signs of heat damage. By the way, it's an old switch (you know, the recalled ones with the brass connecters). When I jumped #30 and #87 at the RPM relay, I got the fuel pump to run. I took apart the relay and scraped a little crap away from between two cold solder points (it wasn't a lot, but hey, I'm reaching for straws). After putting everything back together (pluging the switch and relay back in and replacing the #7 fuse) the car started. Today, I broke one of the golden rules. Even though the car was working, I went out to fix it. I wanted to know what it was I did that got the car to start again. I started at the inertia switch. I moved the button up and down a few times and low and behold, it stayed up. I pushed it in and pulled it up and it still worked. So I pushed it in and started the car. Then I pulled the button up to see if it would shut down the car, and it did. Now the car won't start again. If I jump the switch and the relay, the fuel pump works. If I plug in the relay and turn the ignition on, the relay buzzes wildly. If I try to start the car, the wildly buzzing relay tells the starter to click and buzz too. Here's my thought. A bad inertia switch slowly took out the RPM relay causing stress on the #7 fuse (heating it up but not popping it). Can anyone confirm or dispute this? Is there any relation to a new electrical problem in which the door buzzer seems to carry on with a very weak sound, as if its not getting enough power to work its timer and shut itself off (ignition switch?). Thanks to "anyone" Todd "Project Car 4 Sure" B.