[DML] Re: CLUTCH JOB

["DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxx>]

Lance,
Not to diminish your fine work at bleeding the clutch but I wanted to reply
to your statement that "As you would be aware, the job would be impossible
to accomplish unless the car is raised off the ground." We bleed the slave
cylinder without ever getting under the car. The whole process takes us
less than five minutes. Of course it does help that we do this all the
time.
I guess it has to do with how many ways to "skin a cat". Thanks for your
input.

DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>



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From: Lance R Haslewood <lanceh@xxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: CLUTCH JOB
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 7:36 PM

Lee,

Recently I had to replace the clutch becuse the plate disintergrated.
While I had the clutch out, I decided to have the clutch slave cylinder
re-sleeved because it had a slight weep. It also had some corrosion
inside. I found bleeding the line and cylinder was not too difficult a
job, just a bit fiddly. If I recall, a 5/32" ring/open-end spanner fitted
neatly over the bleed valve (ring end). With this in place, I fitted a
length of clear plastic tube over the end of the valve and placed the other
end into a jar. I used about 4' of tubing. Enough to reach from the slave
cylinder to the ground and with a bit to spare. With my son working the
cluch pedal, I successfully bled the system. In fact, I completely changed
the oil with new. I have a good strong pedal and the clutch works great.

As you would be aware, the job would be impossible to accomplish unless the
car is raised off the ground. I had my 'D' on axle stands. Also if you
lay on a creeper, this will give you more mobility whilst under the car and
make the job a little easier for you. For illumination, I used a 240v
trouble light which I managed to wedge up beside the bell housing.

I don't mean to be telling you how to suck eggs, but the bleeding process
is quite simple. With the bleed valve closed, have somebody slowly pump
the pedal a few times, and with the pedal held in, release the bleed valve.
Make sure the person working the pedal does not release the pedal while
you have the valve open. Keep repeating this process until all air is
removed from the system and a good flow of fluid extrudes. During the
process, you will notice clutch beginning to operate and the pedal becoming
load bearing.

Lance


At 02:56 23/04/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi to all our DML members,
>
>It's been a while sense my last post.
>
>My D has been laid up for the last couple of months with a broken clutch
(5)

>speed. I lost all pedal just as I got home, and ended up pushing it up the
>drive-way 
>and into the hanger.
>
>After checking the fluid level and finding it empty! and finding a stained
>driver
>side carpet indicating that the clutch master cylinder was probably the
>problem,
>I ordered one from PJ Grady. It took quite a while to get around to
>starting the
>repair because I thought it was going to be difficult and time consuming.
>
>It turned out that even with needing a second person to hold a Phillips to
>remove
>the two nuts, the whole remove and replace job took an hour. All that is
>left is
>the bleeding,
>
>The original unit look fine, although on the dirty side. I found some
>indication of
>wetness around the plunger but not the dripping I expected. When I opened
the
>seal end which on the original has a metal band holding the seal in place
I
>discovered
>a rusty nasty wet mess. Removing the plunger requires the removing of a
>snap ring.
>Once cleaned up the plunger is installed in the new master cylinder, which
>comes with a new snap ring. Installing the new master cylinder is easy
>enough, as is the connecting of the
>fluid fill hose and the hydraulic line back to the slave cylinder.
>
>Every time something breaks I get the feeling that the problem will never
>be fixed, and every time I dive in I find that I enjoy working on my D,
Now
>all that's left is to bleed the lines.
>
>Well the bleeding is done and the clutch works!
>
>Now a question?
>
>Any one who has ever had to bleed the clutch line knows what a bitch it is
>just to reach
>and what a mess it makes, especially when a master cylinder is replaced
and
>you are faced with bleeding most of the line contents to get all the air
out.
>
>I have come up with a single tool that will do the following:
>
>1. loosen the bleeder screw with out removing the Engine CVR or even
>reaching behind the engine.
>
>2. collects all the Dot-4 as it is bled (spl?) off and puts in a container
>and not the bell housing or floor.
>
>3. loosens and tightens the bleed screw during the bleeding cycle, again
>with out requiring reaching down behind the engine and is used to tighten
>screw when bleeding is complete.
>
>If you are interested in such an item please let me know via direct e-mail
>using reply! just say "me too"
>
>TTFN
>
>Lee
>
> 
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
Lance? Haslewood (Squadron Leader RAAFRSG)
45 Fullerton Crescent
BLIGH PARK? New South Wales? Australia? 2756
Ph: 61 2 4572 5281 (Home)
Fax: 61 2 4572 5414 (Home)
Cell: 0414 295 888
e-mail:?lanceh@xxxx
Web Page:??www.zeta.oeg.au/~lanceh/
Ph: 61 2 9840 8409 (Work)
Fax: 61 2 9840 8414 (Work) 






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