Matt - I can relate to the tone of your response, but the question that you ask below cannot be answered in a meaningful manner via email. The only really "adequate" way is to feel the drag of the feeler gauge through the gap after it has been adjusted correctly. That "feel" is what guides people to the proper adjustment. That said, the feeler gauge will have a slight drag to it when it is inserted between the two surfaces (cam lobe and rocker arm). If the gap is too tight, you will still be able to pull the gauge through due to the oil on the surfaces. However, the drag will increase. If the gap is too large, there will be no feeling of dragging when the gauge is moved in and out. With the engine set at TDC on #1, half of the valves will be "loose" (ie valves closed), and half will be tight (ie valves at some stage of opening). You set the "loose" ones, keeping in mind that some are intake and some are exhaust, rotate the engine until the two groups swap, and set the other half which are now "loose". If you get the valve lash (or gap) too tight, you can cause a valve to get burned because it may not close completely when the engine is hot. If it is too loose, it will make noise, and will affect the performance of that cylinder. As David noted, the gap changes when you tighten the locknut on the adjusting screw, due to tolerance take-up in the threads. You have to "lead your target" somewhat by figuring out which way it changes, and adjust the initial setting accordingly. This will take some experience, which you are determined to get for yourself (which is fine ... nobody else to blame if you burn a valve). The valve lash adjustment is done with the engine cold, but all settings actually change when the engine gets hot. All mechanics, whether professional or shade-tree, have the opportunity for their first valve lash adjustment. Now is your time ... go for it. FWIW - I hired a mechanic to do the first valve adjustement on Winged1 shortly after I bought the car in 1988. I watched him do the whole thing, and asked to feel the feeler gauge after each valve was done. That way I was able to get a feel for the correct feel, if you're picking up what I'm laying down here. I have since done several others ... once more for my car, and for other PNDC members. Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1" DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC www.delorean-parts.com --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote: Why on earth > would I pay someone $50/hour to do such a simple thing? The only > question that remains in my mind is how easily I should be able to > slide the feeler gauge in between the valve lobe and the rocker > arm. > > Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle > #1604 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/