RE: [DML] Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts

["Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Actually Rich, when you weren't looking I did try a MAPP torch to try to 
free it. I made a makeshift heat shield from layers of thin sheet metal to 
protect the surrounding area and tried heating the bolt in an attempt to 
break the bond between the bolt and the trailing arm. I managed to get the 
bolt dull red but I ended the whole attempt as soon as I melted the heat 
shield!  The bolt still did not come free at that point. I also put a big 
breaker bar with a pipe over the handle and couldn't get it to turn. I did 
manage to have the socket slip off the bolt and have the handle of the 
breaker bar hit me in the forehead, though! The only thing that worked was 
sawing the bolt off and replacing both the bolt AND th trailing arm. And 
remember that there was absolutely *no* externally visible sign of any 
corrosion!

BTW, I still have that trailing arm with the remanant of that bolt stuck 
firmly in place. (As Rich said, the big press was humbled by the little 
bolt.) I may soak it in penetrant for a year or two then try again. ;)

On the other side of the car the bolt slipped out with very little effort 
required. I guess you MAY get it out without a lift, or you MAY run into the 
kind of problems we did.

My simple advice to every owner would be to just spend the money and the 
time and replace the bolts. That way you don't have to wonder if they're 
bent, corroded, cracked, safe, or whatever. And with Toby TABs further 
corrosion (of the bolt, anyway) is not a concern. Its such a critical part 
that you don't want to cheap out on the time/money to know that you're safe. 
The cost is less than a single decent tire, and you wouldn't run around on 
bald tires with cords sticking out of them now would you?!?! ;)

-Joe Kuchan



>From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
>Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 00:49:31 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Harry,
>
>I would recommend reviewing Post 46068 by Joe Kuchan, echoing the
>advice of David T. and others.  This is not a very easy job if all
>does not go well.  Joe's son Peter has a very nice, low mileage
>Delorean and we had one bolt that we could not remove with a 40 ton
>press and we had the luxury of using a lift.  I guess if we had a
>torch, we may have gotten it out but I almost doubt it.  Luckily
>we had a spare trailing arm to replace the one with the stuck bolt
>but it turned into at least a good half day job (on a 5-speed).
>
>I have replaced a few dozen TA bolts over the years on many cars
>and I only had one go "very easy" and that was my Canadian D.
>Maybe my experience has been with too many "rust belt" Deloreans
>but I always allow for plenty of time to change a set of TA bolts.
>
>Later,
>Rich W.
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Harry,
> >
> > I don't believe there are any symptoms until it's too late.
> >
> > That said, you don't need a lift. A set of ramps and a jack to help
> > release the load when you remove the bolts is plenty. This is a
>very
> > easy job (unless you have an automatic).
> >
> > -Ryan
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx>
>wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Other than visual inspection is there away one can diagnose bad
> > > trailing arm bolts by driving, handling characteristics?
>Curious, as
> > > I wouldnt want anything to happen and dont always have the
>luxury of
> > > a lift available.
> > >
> > > Thanks guys
> > > Harry 2696
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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