If some of you remember the prequel to this post, it was called "Help my torsion bar is coming out!" I finally got around to fixing it this evening. I propped the door open with a broomstick. Then, using a 1/2" breaker bar, hex socket, and 4' steel pipe ONLY, my friend and I proceeded to remove the bar, and then reinsert it, pushing it completely into front hinge. There was some dirt that prevented it from going in beforehand. The louvers and T-panel were both removed already. I've gotta tell you guys, repairing the power mirror switch is about 5 times harder than removing the torsion bar. That is, with the right tools. One thing that makes it a lot simpler is the fact that the retaining bracket bolts are VERY short, probably only like 1 inch long total. As far as torque on the bar, with the door open and a 4 foot pipe, the torque is barely noticeable. In fact, it may even be a better idea to use a shorter pipe (3') just so that you don't remove the breaker bar prematurely. I can make an instructional video (on VHS) if anyone is interested. :) My digital cam can only do like 15 fps. I may readjust the bars on both doors anyway after I get the door panels back on them. I wasn't sure what the proper amount of torque would be, since I purchased Toby's door lock actuators. Matt #1604 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/