As Dave Titlebaum constantly reminds me, just because it's relatively new, doesn't mean it's still working. Today I replaced my plugs, and wires. For science's sake, I ohm'd out the old wires (7mm). My new hi-po wires are 8mm silicone, measuring apprx 600-ish ohms per wire depending on the length. Of my old wires, 2 of them read "infinite" or broken, or perhaps were so resistant that I'd need a meg-ohm meter to truly read them. The other 4 were between 5 and 950 thousand ohms. Either way, all 6 were junk. I noted that they seemed kind of stiff from the engine heat. New Bosch (gapped) plugs, new wires, new rotor and cleaned up the cap contacts, new coil and ballast resistor. Checked the timing and checked the CO with the dwell meter. All of this had absolutely no effect. The engine runs as poorly as before. The only difference, is that no matter how loaded the engine is, the timing light still strobes strongly instead of going dark as it used to. As before, different coil/ballast resistor combinations create different symptoms, but none of them good. I have a few more tests, then I may start looking at fuel delivery, despite the fact that I've measured fuel pressures with a K-jet test rig. Cheers, Rich A. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/