[DML] Re: Different Colored Crap (Robert)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Gold colored: that's called fuel varnish. I noted the same thing in a
fuel/air mixture unit I just disassembled. There is only one place it
could have come from -- the fuel distributor metering piston (all
other fuel distribution points are well on the other side of the
throttle plates). Yours is leaking, apparently very badly.

Red colored: that's high temp silicone. Good stuff, but you've got to
use it properly. Can not be applied topically! You've got to apply a
bead *BETWEEN* the mating surfaces, glently close them to evenly
distribute, let it dry, then tighten with final torque specs.

Except for #4, your compression readings are well within 10 PSI
variation. Don't worry about the 150 PSI cylinders (my factory
literature isn't handy, but original compression was in that general
area). Worry about #4. 168 PSI is much too high for anything except
European spec. Test it again to verify reading was accurate. If it
was, you've got terrible carbon buildup. Only way to remove it is
going to be with a grinder (carbon welds itself to the piston. Glows
red hot too, leading to pre-dentonation problems).

For your first helicoil installation, put the helicoil on the plug.
Otherwise you run the risk of continuing to thread it through the hole
and into the cylinder as the plug is inserted. With time it will
hopefully weld itself to the head. Don't forget to use a piece of hose
attached to your vacuum cleaner to throroughly clean the cylinder
after tapping (head is aluminum so I doubt you'll need to drill).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> wrote:
> From when I last posted, I have since removed the intake manifold, and
> have been shocked at what I found. The manifold rings had shrunk into
> the heads, and the rings on W pipe were torn. And to fix the vacuum
> leaks, some idiot mechanic slathered them with some kind of red
> colored, instant gasket material. I suddenly foresee a CO addjustment
> in my future... Aside from this, it looks like I've got some serious
> buildup. From the air mixture unit, thru the manifold, and all the way
> to the intake valves, I have this gold, and black colored crap that's
> caked on everywhere. Don't know if it's carbon, or what. But it
> scrapes off with a screwdriver, and is everywhere.
> 
> After performing a compression test, here are the results for each
> cylinder. #1: 160psi, #2: 150psi, #3: 158psi, #4: 168psi, #5: 161psi,
> & #6: 160psi.
> 
> Now cylinders 2 & 5 are both cross threaded. #5 took allot more
> rotations to snuggly hand tighten the adaptor. #2 on the other hand,
> took allot less. So I don't know nessisarily that I may have had lower
> pressure than on this cylinder was because I wasn't sealing it
> properly. BUT, what I did observe was that while every other cylinder
> took only 2-3 compression strokes to attain thier recorded pressure,
> it took about 5-6 strokes for #2 to hit 150 psi. I go ahead tomorrow,
> and (per the test kit's instructions) pout a tablespoon of oil into
> the cylinder, and see if I can get a higher reading, to test the
> piston rings.
> 
> I don't know what the tolerances are for cylinder compression (I
> lightly combed thru the workshop manual to try and find them), but I
> am a bit concerned about that 18psi difference between my highest, and
> lowest pressure cylinders. I have discovered a couple of tiny leaks
> from some hose connections under the manifold, and one BIG one on the
> left bank of the Y pipe, where it bolts to the block. So a coolant
> pressure test isn't really going to tell me a whole lot at this point.
> HOWEVER, after my car cooled, I poped the radiator cap. The coolant
> bubbled a whole lot, and smelled like gasoline.
> 
> Also, while picking up a compression tester, I stubled across a
> crossthread repair kit. It was $14, and contained a 14mm tap, and 4
> sleeve inserts for repairing aluminum heads. Anyone have any
> experience with these?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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