[DML] Re: Tail-light circuit boards - soldering ok?

["ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Respectfully, I think you're making this "problem" bigger than it
really is. I'm not great at soldering, and I never paid any attention
to the types of metal vs. solder vs. heat, etc. I just took a nice hot
soldering iron (with an old, flattened tip), cleaned the boards a bit,
slapped some solder on there and then smoothed the "globs" of solder
down so the boards would fit back into their housings.

It worked perfectly. Yeah, there were a couple of times when the
solder didn't want to stick, but I just screwed around with it until
it did. My boards didn't crack or separate or "burn the copper right
off." They just worked, no problem. 

I'd also submit that solder is a better fix than some little nuts &
bolts, although the nuts & bolts are likely easier for most people.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> It doesn't matter how good or bad you are at soldering. The problem is
> you can't get it clean enough for it to flow properly. Hitting the
> rivets is a bad idea because you could split them or damage the board,
> very hard to exactly control the amount you hit it. The screws are the
> quick, cheap way to go. Tighten those little suckers as hard as you
> can and it will stretch the rivets and make a good connection. The bad
> news is you can no longer get them in Radio Shack. Try Lowes Home
> Improvement Centers.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> > Unless you are reall good at soldering, knowing how hot to be so
> that you 
> > don't burn the copper right off the board, you might want to send
> them to 
> > John Hervey to fix.
> >




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