Watch the clutch fork from above as someone else activates and holds the pedal. If it moves in sync with the pedal and remains engaged thereafter, your problem isn't in the hydraulics. You can watch the throw out bearing and clutch fork through access holes in the side of the bellhousing (remove the drive axles). Ensure the bearing is properly seated on the fork, rides against the pressure plate fingers at all times, and moves evenly from both sides (clutch fork pivoting normally). Lift the rear wheels off the ground and engage the clutch. With the transmission in gear you should be able to freely spin the wheels and just barely hear the clutch disc swooshing against the pressure plate. If car passes these tests, you've either got a problem with the shift linkage itself or perhaps the synchronizers are broken. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003@xxxx> wrote: > I have the stainless steel clutch line and I bled my clutch last > night but I still cannot get a good shift. It will shift and drive > but it likes to be difficult and sometimes will not go into gear > unless I pump my clutch a few times (especially reverse). Once I get > going it shifts "OK" but when I stop it needs to be pumped again (Not > all the time). Please help me with any advise. > > Thanks, > Adam Lee > VIN To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/