[DML] Continued: Third Party A/C Techs

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If you remember my DeLo, A/C is the *LEAST* of its concerns...

I'm sure there are plenty of tight 23 year old A/C systems. There are
also 23 year old doors without dents, 23 year old headliners that
don't sag, 23 year old toll windows that work, 23 year old wheels
without chips... (You get the idea).

DeLo's run the gamut of condition. I'm hoping that DCS Chicago will
showcase such. Some are only at the beginning of that long road to
restoration. Others have made it to the end. Count me among the first
group.

Since freon is only $2.50 a can, for now I'm running the A/C as is and
focusing limited resources on my car's many other needs.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> If you are having problems with systems that are not tight you should
> improve your methods so that you can make them tight. On most cars you
> can do a pretty good job of it. Certain compressors are known for
> leaky shaft seals but they can be rebuilt with better ones. A Delorean
> can be made very tight. There are many that have not needed to be
> recharged and are still running after 20 years. Mine is tight but I
> blew the discharge hose a couple of years ago so it had to be replaced
> and recharged. The only things I replaced at the time was the hose and
> the "O" rings for it, and the service valve cores on the compressor
> (just good practice) and of course the R-12 and the refrigerent oil.
> Go buy the leak detector solution sold in the A/C shops and use it
> liberally over every connection. I agree that a fitting that is not
> leaking is best left alone. If you cannot see any leaks then you
> probably need a shaft seal. In the wintertime when you don't use the
> car you should turn the compressor by hand once in awhile to lubricate
> the seal. If you continually add refrigerent you MUST also add oil or
> you will burn up the compressor eventually. Leaking refrigerent
> carries out some oil with it so it MUST be replaced. If you have the
> equipment you can add leak detector to find hard to locate leaks. When
> using the leak detector solution (the soap), test the low side with
> the system not running and test the high side with the system running
> so as to test at the highest possible pressures. Go slowly, a small
> leak takes time to make bubbles. I don't like the fancy (expensive)
> electronic leak detectors on cars, there is usually too much air
> movement for them to work right. They don't like working in a wind
> tunnel! You can also make your own leak detector solution with soap
> (dishwashing liquid) and glycerin but I prefer to buy it, it seems to
> work better and easier and comes in a bottle with a nice brush. Be
> careful with the leak detector solution that you add to the system
> internaly. Too much can interfere with the operation of the system and
> if you spill it, it stains and is hard to remove (especally from skin!).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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