[DML] Re: Window came off the track

["ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael Paine <mpaine@xxxx> wrote:
> My passenger side toll booth window has come off it's track. 

I had the smae issue on one of my cars a while back. In my case the 
problem stemmed from the stop having slid down the lift motor tube 
assembly thereby allowing the window to travel too far down and 
causing the front guide to travel off the end of the track. If you 
have a parts manual, the stop is visible in section 3.6.5 and is the 
un-numbered part that looks like a clamp partway down on the lift 
motor tube.

There are two steps to the repair -- getting the window back on 
track and fixing the stop so it doesn't hapen again. I used a couple 
shortcuts that made this pretty easy. Start by removing the upper 
door panel (there are instructions for doing this in a lot of the 
various places). Whenever working in the door, I usually take the 
precaution of using some black electrical tape to tape up the metal 
edges around the area I'm working. The edges can be pretty sharp and 
I have cut myself on them before. Putting black electrical tape over 
the exposed edges can save you some pain and blood later.

To get the window on track, all I had to do was remove the front 
door marker light and run the window down to the bottom. Through the 
front door marker light hole you can see the end of the track and 
the plastic window guide. Using a long instrument, I was able to 
guide the window back on its track. To make this a little easier, I 
did loosen the screws securing the track slightly in order to give 
me a little play to more easily line things up. Once you're back on 
the track run the window back up, secure the track screws if you had 
to loosen them and pop the marker light back in.

The second part of the fix is to keep the window from traveling too 
far down the track the next time it's operated. For this I took 
another shortcut. Instead of trying to move the existing clamp back 
up the motor tube and securing it more tightly, I used a short piece 
of proper diameter slit rubber hose that I wrapped around the motor 
tube and secured with a suitably sized hose clamp. I tightened this 
rubber stop fairly snugly in a conveniently accessible place and 
then ran the window down while helping it along by pushing it down 
until the top of the window is slightly lower than flush with the 
window sil. The trick is to tighten the clamp such that it's tight 
enought to prevent the window motor from moving it, while still 
being loose enought that with reasonable force you can push it down 
to the place you want it. 

If you're not having too much trouble plundering with getting the 
guide back on track through the marker light hole, the whole thing 
should take no more than 30-45 minutes. Whenever I work in the door 
I usually find the hardest part is getting the upper door panel back 
on properly. Getting all those fir trees to line up in their holes 
and getting the panel to fit cleanly behind the armest control 
panel, etc is a pain.

I hope you find some of my experiences helpful.

      Knut





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