Re: [DML] Constantly blowing the #1 fuse... help please

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Fuse #1 feeds a Green wire junction under the console. That's the best
place to isolate which device has the short, time permitting.

Unfortunately the short will be backfed if you try to bypass it with
that junction intact.

Car can be rigged to run without Fuse #1 (knocks you out of concours,
but at least you'll be there):
- Feed fuel pump directly with a jumper from a hot line in the front
of the car (suggest the windshield washer pump).
- In lieu of idle speed motor use manual circuit (brass screws) or
simply crack open the throttle plates
- May need to unplug the frequency valve and let it fail safe to
constant enrichment. Don't know how the system responds without input
from the RPM relay
- Original door lock module should have been disconnected anyway
- Warm up regulator (CPR) will operate without electricity, albeit
more slowly
- Ignition itself uses very little amperage. Just move the engine
compartment light switch supply line to the ballast resistors right
next to it
- Ignition ECU is tricky only because of the plug. If you don't want
to tap into the Green wire you'll have to pop it out and replace it
with a jumper AND terminal. Use any of the hot lines in the ECU
compartment (antenna, rear courtesy light, disabled idle speed motor, etc)

Car should run like this. May need to adjust CO. Just count the number
of revolutions so you can put it back after the short is solved.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, some success so far, I managed to get it started by unplugging 
> the vacuum solenoid, moved it out of the garage to work on it in 
> better light, and before I hit the end of the driveway I heard 
> the "pop" of the #1 fuse again, that was all she wrote, dead again. 
> 
> Now with the vacuum solenoid unplugged it STILL blows the #1 fuse 
> now just as before, as soon as I turn the key to acc. Do you have 
> another suggestion to try to get this somewhat driveable long enough 
> to get on a trailer? Thanks Martin, and anyone else with a 
> suggestion they may have.
> 
> I have until about 10pm eastern time to get it running before I 
> depart for PF, and I'd hate to not participate in the concours 
> because of a damn tempermental fuse. And it just started this 
> yesterday too, so I haven't had much diagnosis time either.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone,
> 
> Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524 & 16634
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try unplugging the vacuum solenoid behind the metering head. This 
> can go 
> > bad and will blow #1 fuse. The car can be driven with this 
> unplugged, 
> > but it will pull advance at idle and rev a bit fast. Driving will 
> be 
> > fine, as that only switches on at idle.
> > 
> > Martin




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