Ball joint press or a big C clamp. Use a 7/16" bolt as the drift and a 3/4" socket as the receiver, deep well if necessary. I had to press out one of mine. Didn't cut it -- just squeezed the bolt through until it was flush with the trailing arm, then used a drift until capacity of the C clamp was reached. Pulled it the rest of the way through by levering the head with a pair of pliers against a block of wood against the frame. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote: > > Dave, > > That sounds easy enough but what about the piece of the bolt that is stuck in > the frame still? how will that come out? > > Andy > > >In a message dated 5/16/04 11:52:23 AM Central Daylight Time, > >swingle@xxxx writes: > > > > Andy > > > > As we discovered today, the "fix" was to knock the shims out, cut the > > training arm bolt with a hacksaw, unhook the brake line, remove the > > entire trailing arm from the car, heat it and beat on it for a while, > > curse a lot, and then give up and replace it. Yes, the whole arm. > > Luckily as DMC parts go the Trailing Arm is not all that expensive > > for a Big Heavy Metal Part. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/