[DML] Re: Clutch Problems

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

( moderator's note: The suggestion here to start the car in gear without the clutch is a technique that is potentialy dangreous and isn't condoned or recommended as an alternative to a flatbed or tow truck. Bruce Benson, current moderator )

Welcome! Sometimes posts generate a little controversy, but in the end
we're all on the same team (owners of limited production automobiles
from a car company that no longer exists can't afford to be too
particular). 

If you drive a stick shift, you need to learn and practice "RPM
shifting" before something like this happens (down South we call it
"slam shifting", which sounds terrible but is actually quite gentle).
Once familiar with the progressive shift points in your car -- the
points at which various transmission gears are synchronized with
engine RPM's -- you can slip right into them without disengaging the
clutch at all! I drove my AMC home like this once when the clutch
pedal linkage came unwelded from the pedal bracket, through Xmas eve
traffic no less. After the holiday I slam shifted to the shop to have
the bracket re-welded. 

Regarding your current predicament -- your clutch hydraulics have most
likely leaked fluid. In its place air has been sucked in. Start at the
master cylinder and diagnose your way towards the rear of the car
(also check the pedal connecting rod to ensure it is still attached): 
- Ensure fluid is not leaking past the master cylinder piston. You'll
see it inside the passenger compartment if it is
- Ensure the internal stopper is shutting off the reservoir as the
master cylinder piston moves by watching the air hole in the filler
cap. If the stopper has fallen out that's the path of least resistance
and fluid will shoot out the air hole as the piston moves
- Ensure fitting to the rear of the car is not leaking. Ensure line to
the rear of the car is not leaking (part of it is hidden above the
driver side trailing arm splash guard). Ensure union above the
transmission is not leaking. Ensure line towards the slave cylinder is
not leaking.
- Now comes the fun part: if you're still using an original exhaust
crossove pipe, the slave cylinder is pretty well obscured unless you
climb on top of the engine and look down from above. You need to check
both the fitting into the slave cylinder and the bleeder screw for
leaks. Pop the dust boot off and watch for fluid leaking past the
piston. This is the end of the line -- if you haven't found any leaks
you'll need to bleed the air out and wait for the system to fail again.

Two last throughts Re: slam shifting
- Progressive shift points are often at lower RPM's than people
usually shift at
- To start moving from a stoplight: turn off the engine, put the
transmission in 1st gear (it'll slip right in without the engine
running), then start the car in gear. It will leap forward enough that
you can feed it some throttle and keep the engine lurching until
normal acceleration is possible. Embarrassing, but cheaper than a tow
truck.

Good luck!

Bill Robertson
#5939  
 
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "usndmc" <usndmc@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
> this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
> driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
> relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
> was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
> added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
> level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
> times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
> was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
> and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,
> 
> Dave
> VIN 5968




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