Re: [DML] Pigeon Forge or Bust

[Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bill, there are two locating roll pins at the top of the bellhousing. 
I'm not sure if it's meant to be like this but the one we took off today 
left one in the bellhousing and one in the engine. The alignment does 
NOT rely on the bolts. Dave Swingle posted some time ago about the 
results if these are missing.

BTW I checked with Darren (PRV/Renault guy) and he said the original 10 
spline was bespoke. They changed to a 21 spline (not 28) to conform with 
other manufacturers. And, in reply to a previous post - smaller splines 
equals larger diameter solid part of the shaft =  stronger shaft

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>I think I've been relying too much on the bellhousing bolt holes. They
>are not a tight 10mm fit (only hold the transmission and engine
>together, not in alignment). With jacks at far ends of the engine and
>transmission, and loose fitting rods through the bellhousing, I am
>exerting too much downward pressure on the input shaft, and never
>recover as I pull it through (off to one side too, and never recover
>from that either). A 10 spline disc is strong enough to orient the
>input shaft without damaging itself. A 28 spline definitely is not.
>
>When installing a 10 spline transmission all you have to do is pay
>attention to torque on the mounting bolts. If it binds, resistance on
>a bolt will tell you when and where, allowing you to compensate on the
>opposite side. And as I said, the disc is not damaged in the process.
>A 28 spline can NOT do the same. There is absolutely no noticeable
>change in bolt resistance if it binds (trust me -- I've done it twice
>without realizing it).
>  
>
>  
>





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