Jewelers is going to be too small. You need the longest blade possible to get the leverage to start it. Stanley's 1/8" is 4". Re: my angle drive repair -- remember, this was done last spring, when Houston's angle drives were not yet available. I had no choice but to repair the factory unit. Were it to happen today, I would simply by a new replacement. The outer coils of my spindle cable are wound against the direction of primary wheel rotation (I still wonder if mine at least was intended for RHD use on the passenger wheel). This had the unfortunate consequence of unwinding on I-95. Several inches from the end were mangled like spaghetti, and the visible portion of the wheel disc was rounded out (I later discovered that deep inside its pocket was still square). My first repair was to cut off the damaged portion of the spindle cable, attach a piece of same diameter threaded rod in its place, then interface to the wheel disc by cutting off the original pocket and tapping threads (added a nut/jamb nut for good measure). This worked well for a short time, but the remaining spindle cable continued to unwind on the other side of my splice. My second repair was the same as the first, except I ran solder all the way down the remaining factory cable, including inside the angle drive bushing, to prevent any more unwinding. I now had such a long piece of threaded rod in lieu of spindle cable (and the cable I did have had no flex because of the solder) installation was a real bear. I got in in, but then began to worry that the whole arrangement was too stiff. I never drove on the second repair. My third repair was to separate the threaded rod and the spindle cable. A short piece of 1/8" key stock was attached to the now very short spindle cable. A piece of 1/8" hollow square channel was attached to the threaded rod (for the key stock to mate into). There's provision for about 1/4" movement side to side between the rod and the cable. My angle drive now is inserted in two pieces: the original gear assembly goes on the inside as usual, then the rod with wheel disc already attached goes on from the outside. The keystock/hollow channel mate inside the spindle effortlessly. I've driven about 6,000 miles on this repair, at speeds up to 80 MPH. Don't anticipate any problems, but as I said: if they pop up I'll simply buy one of the replacements now available. I remove it from time to time to check its health -- next time it's out of the car I'll take some pics and upload them to #5939's photo album. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi@xxxx> wrote: > I tried exactly that method for about an hour, even using fine > jewelers screwdrivers. I'm very good usually with small objects and > fine movements. But that damn ring wasn't budging at all. Wish mine > would've worked this way, even though it sounds easy. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/