Mike, Unless something has been done on the Hyper bright white bulbs, Jamstrait advised me that the bulbs were not made for the type of tail lights lenses we have and the cost was very expensive. The current savings was considerable ( if ) all the bulbs were on at the same time, but during my investigation the current was not worth the money. If you are worried about 2 or 3 amps then there may be something wrong with your charging system. All the bulbs are not on at the same time. I did discover replacement bulbs that draw 1/2 the current and put out 80% of the light with the same 360 degree light luminance but nobody seem interested so I dropped the project for some better ones. I also looked into dash lights and consol lights and again dropped the subject due to directional luminance. If Bob has come up with something else that will luminate downwards as the dash dictates then that would be great. Also the consol lights would have to be adaptable to a unusual socket. John Hervey -----Original Message----- From: Mike [mailto:mquinto@xxxxxxxxx] Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 12:42 AM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] LED Lights Hello List, This subject comes up once and a while. I have been telling other DMLers about the LED's on my car for a few years now. And I'm usually contacted by others wanting to know where I purchased my LED's or how I made them. I always meant to update my new web page. http://home.comcast.net/~mquinto/led.html Over the years I purchased a number of LED 1156 and 1157's from various companies. The brightness from these bulbs were just not there. The only one I ever found to be considered as a taillight or blinker replacement light is the Jamstrait HYPER-BRIGHT series NOT the SUPER-BRIGHTS. I did get that projection circle on my taillight lens. So I spaced the taillight boards out a little and this reduced it quite a bit. I've had Jamstrait bulbs on my taillights for over a year now without any problems. I've had cops behind me quite a few times while using my signals or brake lights and had never been pulled over. There is a new company I found that sells allot of LED bulbs for different applications. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi- bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR Some of there 1156 and 1157 bulbs have a wider viewing angle. But I never purchased anything from them so I couldn't tell you how good they are. I believe John Hervey was investigating a kit awhile back as well, I don't know if he still is or not? If he still is, I know it would be a good kit. Sorry, I never entertained the idea of making a kit myself I didn't want to be responsible for selling something that may not be DOT approved. I'm sure there would be some sort of liability risk. Someone would rear end a DeLorean owner and claim he modified his Taillights. Anyway since I never found an aftermarket BA7 bulb for the A/C Panel I purchased the indiglow A/C panel from Ryan Gould. I had him do it in Red to match my Dash illumination. And It looks great! So I gathered up some old emails with this information below. If you follow this link to the Yahoo groups in photos it will give you better detail on the LED's I installed. I meant to transfer those pics and info to my web page awhile back. I just can't find the time, plus I don't like the web page providers setup. So I don't think I will be updating soon. http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Led+Dash&.src= gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ I purchased Jamstrait 1156 & 194 Hyperbrites from: http://www.myroadster.net/led.asp My # 733 and # 743 Interior Dome, Engine Compartment, Trunk Light and License Plate Lights from: http://www.lightingresearch.com/leds/led_dome_lights.htm My # 73 Hazard and Headlight Switch Light from: http://www.happcontrols.com/index.html? http://www.amusementsplus.com/lighting/915wb61w.htm! You should check out these guys. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi- bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR I never purchase anything from them but they seem to be very inexpensive. They carry all the LED's I described above plus the load equalizer for the alt dash light. The # 733 or Festoon Bulbs will fit License plate. and # 743 will fit in all other places. The 194's will fit the door lights. Mine are custom. The 1156's will fit in the rear taillights. The 73's or 74's will fit in the Headlight and hazard switch. The 1157's will work for front turn signal. Mine are custom. Side marker lights, maybe available from new vendor. Mine are custom. A/C panel Lights, none available. Mine are Indiglow. Why I made custom LED's in certain places, at the time these were not available or too expensive. I didn't bother changing them over. They all seem to be still functioning without a problem. DASH INFO Do red for red amber for amber. I used white LED's for blue & green lenses, they worked very well. White didn't work behind amber or red lens. And use the Hyper-brites. I bought a total of 16 Hyper-Bright Bulbs for the dash. Below is what I used: 6 Red Warning Lights - Hyper-brite Red - #194HR 5 Dash Illumination - Hyper-brite Red - #194HR ( Whatever color you want) 1 Amber Fuel Light - Hyper-Brite Amber - #194HA 3 Green Turn/Low Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW 1 Blue High Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW Note: the battery light or charge system will not work with the LED, you must have the Load Equalizer installed. Once installed, test it by starting the car, and unplug the small charge wire off your Alternator. Your Battery Light should come on to signal a failure. Go to the photo section on how to remove the dash. On a difficulty level between 1 and 5. (5 being the hardest) This would be a 2. Remember there are no mods except the Load Equalizer. Load Equalizer Installation: This is very simple to install. The Load Equalizer comes with those little piggy back clamps. Just jump the load equalizer to the Green wire and the other to the Brown & yellow wire near the plug end. The White connector is also marked #7 and #9 on the side of the plug. Doesn't matter which end of the Load Equalizer you clamp to. You will need pliers to squeeze the clamps. Then when you reinstall the dash carefully tuck the Load Equalizer in the same area the plug comes through. This is just so it is out of the way for installation. Something important to remember! The twist bases for the 194 bulb's can be installed 2 ways or 180 degrees. But the LED's can only be installed one direction. When you install the LED's be sure you test them all before installing the dash. If one doesn't light remove the base and rotate it 180 degrees and it will come on. The lambda and the fuel light are not that easy to test. Since you can't force them to come on. So do this: for example install the parking brake light. When you have the right orientation that makes it light. Unplug the base and move it up towards the Low Fuel light socket and install it, make sure you keep the same rotation. Then do the same for the Lambda Socket. If you buy the mini 74 LED's for the Headlight and Hazard switch and or the interior Dome lights, they have to be installed one way also. The headlight and the Hazard switch are the only ones that will blow a fuse if installed incorrectly. I know I went through a few fuses before I figured it out. Hope this helps Mike Vin 1113 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! 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