There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: "French PRV"
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
2. Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Toby Tabs
From: mquinto@xxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Prototype found
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
5. Idle speed motor
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
6. Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
7. Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
8. Rear Sway Bar
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Rear Sway Bar
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: DeLorean Performance Ignition Kit
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Rear Sway Bar
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Gear Shifter Plate--Anyone have one?
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Gear Shifter Plate--Anyone have one?
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Turn ignition key, and starter not activating
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Rear Sway Bar
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Prototype
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Newbie says hi
From: "Jon" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Euro Headlights
From: "Jon" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
19. 106130 Angle Drive Update
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Prototype
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Toby Tabs (suspension upgrades)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Idle speed motor
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Prototype (and other early Deloreans)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Disconnecting Idle Speed Motor Electrical Connection
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. New problems on #3299
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 01:11:03 EST
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "French PRV"
In a message dated 12/17/2003 11:08:05 PM Central Standard Time, (Bill
Robertson)dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
But in all PRV is surprisingly smooth
running (given odd fire sequence) with good bottom end torque and
projected long life span -- Bertone I saw in Hagarstown junkyard had
180,000 miles on odometer.
I had a Volvo with the PRV engine back in the late 70's and if I remember
right it had close to 150,000 miles on it (including replacement of the camshafts
twice) before I got rid of it. I was stopped once in my -87 Volvo (probaly in
1991or so) by a friendly "Smokie" in Montana who told me had had a Volvo/PRV
since new and it had 800,000 miles, including several rebuilds by himself,
before he junked it because the body and frame had completely rusted out beyond
repair. Must have been a glutton for punishment, or maybe he had been smoking
something funny?
Does anybody know the design history of the PRV?
Roger
VIN 1074
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 00:19:39 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
If someone can get me one of these, or a good enough picture or scan of them
I could have them reproduced for you.
My buddy can make all of that stuff.
- VB
>From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] DMC Quality Assured Sticker
>Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:50:46 EST
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>
>If this truly is the case and no more are left, I am surprised nobody has
>made any out of that "static cling" material that uses no adhesive. Its a
>fairly simple design and I bet someone on the list is capable of remaking
>them.
>
>Patrick
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work — and
yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 06:31:27 -0000
From: mquinto@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Toby Tabs
Hello List,
I have been following this thread for a few days now. And I have
an opinion on the issue. I just want to give some background info
first, Sorry if I sound conceded I'm not bragging or nothin'.
I have been a prototype metal Fabricator for 10 years building the
Flyer Light Strike Vehicles for the Military.
http://www.marvineng.com/flyer/index.htm
And before this off-road desert race cars.
I talked to my Forman who has 20 years in the same field and is an
expert on suspensions. Also spoke with one of our engineers
(Formerly retired from RocketDyne) And also I spoke with a gentlemen
who has been working with us for a couple of weeks, an Engineer from
General Motors.
And yes, all this on company time talking about DeLoreans.
I told and showed them pictures on the Toby Tab, the Bauerle
Bracket, the frame layout, and how they are installed and what the
claims were.
The Bauerle Bracket:
As a fabricators opinion this is a poorly designed part. Lap
welding mild steel angle iron to a bent plate is something we would
never do. Especially to be used as a suspension support bracket.
Both Engineers agree that there is no rigidity in this part. And the
attachment point on the frame needs to be drastically improved.
But all this doesn't matter anyway.
The Toby Tab:
This bolt is a higher tensile strength replacement of the original
OEM Bolt. They believe for example: instead of 10,000 cycles you
might get 100,000 cycles.
Meaning the Toby tab will bend over time like the originals but will
last longer.
They believe Lotus didn't pay attention to detail when designing
the rear suspension. But also said, not to touch or lockout the
movement in that area.
That area was designed for that movement for camber curve as the
suspension travels up and down. Stiffening up that bolt movement or
adding a bracket in dual shear will do more damage than good. The
suspension could bind through its travel and reduce cornering
performance. Or you could cause the trailing arm bracket welded on
the frame to crack.
The solution:
The most simple and inexpensive way to go is, remove the Bauerle
Bracket if installed and buy the Toby Tabs. The expensive hard fix
would be to convert the old trailing arm ends to a Spherical
threaded Rod End with Toby Tabs. This would extent the life of the
bolts dramatically. My Forman would also convert the outboard side
of the upper and lower links to Spherical threaded Rod Ends keeping
the inboard sides stock rubber or aftermarket polyurethane bushings
if you were going that far. But, For me the expensive hard fix is
something I'll do later when I have the time.
Closing:
All the views expressed by the people I had talked too are their
opinions for improvement. I would not recommend anyone to change
their suspension in any way. Use your own judgment. If anyone has
any questions they would like to ask one of the Engineers, I would
gladly ask them for you.
Also, I don't know Toby we've never met. But, Toby put me down for
your bolts.
Regards
Mike
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:39:13 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Prototype found
I have talked to the owner of the car and asked him to bring it.
He has not committed yet as to whether he is or is not going to bring it
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:20:51 EST
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Idle speed motor
Did I recently read a post that said if you disconnect the wires going to the
idle speed "motor" the engine should stall? Why is that?
Mine certainly does not.
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:42:23 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
In a message dated 12/17/2003 9:07:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
PRC1216@xxxxxxx writes:
If this truly is the case and no more are left, I am surprised nobody has
made any out of that "static cling" material that uses no adhesive. Its a
fairly simple design and I bet someone on the list is capable of remaking
them.
Well Patrick how about making this a project and seeing what it takes to make
it for us
Try Mr Label in Cincinnati.
Good luck
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 09:26:59 -0500
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Quality Assured Sticker
I am going to work at getting them reproduced. I will let you know how they turn out.
Patrick
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:32:06 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear Sway Bar
Some time back, there was a lot of talk about installing a rear sway bar on
the DeLorean.
Did anyone on the list install one?
What was the result?
How did the installation go?
Did you encounter any problems?
I appreciate any information that you have about this.
Thanks
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 09:19:54 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Sway Bar
Scott,
I installed a rear sway bar on the 97™ Delorean Time Machine.
We tested the V8 car before and then after the installation. THe rear
end was much more solid. THe way the ADDCo sway bar mounts it also helps
reduce movement of the trailing arms.
It also reduced sway on hard corning.
BOB
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:21:27 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Performance Ignition Kit
Our mechanics do it in less than three hours. Of course, how long it would
you or someone else to do it is entirely dependent on their skill-level. So,
in this case, it's not a matter of complexity (can you change the plugs and
wires in your car, Marc?), more a matter of deciding which customer's car is
going to get put aside while one of the mechanics does the work.
Out of the 32 cars in the shop at the moment, 17 are "in process" (somewhere
between the initial checkout and final delivery). Four of them are due to
leave before the end of the year. When it comes to delivering a client's car
or putting on a $320 performance ignition for testing purposes, we'll
deliver a client's car anytime - isn't that the way you would want it to be
if it were your car?
Several of the kits have already sold, people who have read the Nology web
site or are already familiar with the company and it's products.
James
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:45:57 -0800 (PST)
> From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Performance Ignition Kit
>
> Find time?? How complex is it to install?
>
>
> --- james@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> <SNIP>
>> kit put on it...need to find the time in the service
>> department
>> schedule.
>>
>> James
>>
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:54:56 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Rear Sway Bar
Bob,
Did you have any problems with the installation?
Any hints or tricks?
Thanks
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brandys [mailto:BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 9:20 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Rear Sway Bar
Scott,
I installed a rear sway bar on the 97T Delorean Time Machine.
We tested the V8 car before and then after the installation. THe rear
end was much more solid. THe way the ADDCo sway bar mounts it also helps
reduce movement of the trailing arms.
It also reduced sway on hard corning.
BOB
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 11:50:07 -0500
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Gear Shifter Plate--Anyone have one?
As I was looking through Tamir's awesome site, I noticed that in the custom D section, eurofest, page 2, there is a picture of a D with a beautiful Ferrari style gear shifting plate. Needless to say, now I want one. Does anyone else have one of these beauties or know where to get one? I suppose making one wouldn't be impossible, but the one pictured looks perfect.
Patrick
1880
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 11:16:37 -0800
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gear Shifter Plate--Anyone have one?
I talked to the fellow about the plate. It was really done well and, like
you, I wanted one. He said that each cars shift pattern can vary somewhat
simply because of the way the cables and such may be adjusted. Because of
that you would have to tailor each plate to each car. He didn't make it
sound like it would be very easy to produce a bunch of them.
Bruce Benson
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:14:53 -0000
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Turn ignition key, and starter not activating
Dear List:
I am a month long DeLorean owner of #1629. Driving my car daily, I
am encountering the "typical" small agitations that 22 year old
sports car owners encounter ... so I am working out the bugs. The
most recent is one that I would like some advice on.
I am sure it is something not that this will not be complicated to
repair, but reading some of the past responses in the message files
on ignition and starting issues, I know that it could not hurt to ask
all of you about the connection between the ignition switch and the
starter.
Here is what is happening. I insert the key, turn to first position,
and everything activates as normal... Dashboard indicators come on
(seat belt indicator light, oil light, and battery light come on), I
hear the fuel pump and other things clicking on, and the consol
lights up ... all normal.
Now, I turn the key to activate the starter, and the consol lights GO
OUT COMPLETELY, and I hear a discernable "CLICK", and the starter
does NOT activate.
When I return the key to the run position, I hear the "click" again.
Ken in Cincinnati informed me of the #1 and #7 fuse ... making
certain that there is a connection, and that power is going to them.
He mentioned a "bypass fix" that I will investigate.
Is there anything in the steering column around the ignition switch
that I must pay attention to?
I will be investing in an owner's manual. At the moment, I am working
on my own visual observation.
I am very satisfied with my car .. and willing to learn about it as I
continue to drive it. Please let me know your thoughts.
Thank you,
Ramon
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:15:10 +0000
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rear Sway Bar
Contrary to popular belief, adding sway bars to one
end of a car affects the handling at the other end
of the car. Stiffening the rear end will promote
understeer, stiffening the front end will promote
oversteer.
--
Mike
> Scott,
>
> I installed a rear sway bar on the 97™ Delorean Time Machine.
>
> We tested the V8 car before and then after the installation. THe rear
> end was much more solid. THe way the ADDCo sway bar mounts it also helps
> reduce movement of the trailing arms.
>
> It also reduced sway on hard corning.
>
> BOB
>
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:46:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Prototype
These "black" cars where probably assembled and disassembled several
times for the workforce to learn on and for the designers to check fit
and clearances. I would guess that most of the cars where finally
disassembled and the parts were used in the first production cars.
That is except for the plastic (or fiberglass?) body panels. Those
panels seem to have disappeared into history. It would be great if
someone could find a set of them!!!!!! Other parts that have
disappeared forever are the foam blocks and other protective shipping
that was put on the cars when they where sent to America. In that
sense you could say the first cars were prototypes, they have the
parts from the first 500 in them! IMHO that won't make them any more
valuable, any car with a vin after 500 is a production car. Now even
saying that, many of the early cars were never intended for the
public. Just look at the vin chronology and you will see many cars
were set aside for engineering, sales, promotion, executives, etc. You
could argue that a particular car that was built for a particular
person (especially a high profile person) may be worth more that one
made for sale to the general public.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Wait a second, I never knew why 501 was chosen as the number that
the VINs
> started at, but I didn't think it was because there were FIVE HUNDRED
> "black" cars. These couldn't have all been destroyed. It just
doesn't make
>
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:14:47 -0800
From: "Jon" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Newbie says hi
Thank you John, David, and everyone else that replied! I ordered caliper
rebuild kits so when those arrive I should be ready to rock and roll.
Thanks again everyone!
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:25 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Newbie says hi
Jon, Welcome to the Delorean World. Jump in the sauna is always warm and
comfy.
Brakes: calipers are 20+ years old and full of gunk, master cylinder seals
are hard and cylinder is full of old fluid and rust, brake lines old, Dot 4
is most likely old. If a complete brake fluid transfusion doesn't do it,
then is replacement time. Not trying to be negative BUUUUT, it's all old.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/brakes-rotors.html
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:25:29 -0800
From: "Jon" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Euro Headlights
Hey again everyone. I think one of the slickest mods I've seen to the
delorean are the Euro Headlights like on this page.
http://www.entermyworld.com/custom/modica1x1.jpg
I did some research and found that the Nissan Maxima these headlights went
to look like a 1987. Is this correct? We have a place by us that has import
car parts on the cheap. When my Delo is running I was thinking of driving
it over there to test fit a pair of these.
I think the headlights compliment the lines of the car perfectly. And they
sure update the look of the front end. What do you guys think of them?
Jon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 12:33:18 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 106130 Angle Drive Update
Just an update for those that have ordered the new angle drives, delivery is
now NOT expected until January. A mixup in the shipping has resulted in the
delay. If anyone had ordered these as a Christmas gift, the order can either
be cancelled or we have a gift card that we can send now, and follow with
the angle drives as soon as they arrive here.
Thank you!
James Espey
DMC (Texas)
Www.delorean.com
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 14:07:11 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Prototype
In a message dated 12/18/03 12:07:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> The first 500 DeLoreans built were "black cars
No doubt somewhere it's written how many were actually made, but it seems
unlikely they needed or made 500 preproduction cars. They simply reserved the
numbers up to 500. Just as new checking accounts typically start at "check 100"
not "001."
Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 20:11:17 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Toby Tabs (suspension upgrades)
Mike,
Your description of the "fix" you would recommend sounds similar
to the Pearce Design Components re-designed SS trailing arms.
Although the PDC re-designed SS trailing arms do not have any
changes on the "outboard" portion of the trailing arm mounts,
the "inboard" attachment point does utilize a heavy duty type
of Heim joint (with an integrated spherical bearing).
When having two SS frames commissioned by PDC, I asked them to
engineer a better performing and better looking trailing arm
and they exceeded my expectations on both requests. The new
design also eliminates the risk of loose shims falling off.
Did you and your engineer buddies check out the PDC design?
Just curious.
Thanks,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mquinto@xxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I have been following this thread for a few days now. And I have
> an opinion on the issue. I just want to give some background info
> first, Sorry if I sound conceded I'm not bragging or nothin'.
> I have been a prototype metal Fabricator for 10 years building the
> Flyer Light Strike Vehicles for the Military.
> http://www.marvineng.com/flyer/index.htm
> And before this off-road desert race cars.
> I talked to my Forman who has 20 years in the same field and is an
> expert on suspensions. Also spoke with one of our engineers
> (Formerly retired from RocketDyne) And also I spoke with a
gentlemen
> who has been working with us for a couple of weeks, an Engineer
from
> General Motors.
> And yes, all this on company time talking about DeLoreans.
>
> snip <
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 15:12:42 -0500
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Idle speed motor
If you unplug idle motor while car is idling it probably will not stall. It depends on the exact instant you unplug it. The idle motor regulates the air going into the engine and once you unplug it will remain constant. It may run rough the first time you unplug then run okay the next time depending on how far the valve was open when unplugged....
mike c
2109
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 20:33:42 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Prototype (and other early Deloreans)
Mark,
The point that I intended to make is that there are several
types of early Deloreans and they do not all fall into only
the two catagories you refer to - prototype or production.
There were plenty of pilot cars and "black" cars, all of
which were neither prototypes nor production cars. Pilot
and black cars used production parts except cosmetic parts.
While I agree that VIN..570 is a production car and was built
after VIN..560, meaning the car was sold with a DMC warranty,
I do not agree that VIN #20 should be considered a prototype.
VIN #20 was used primarily for emission testing and for some
limited road testing, but was not ever used as a show car.
All VIN #20 mechanical parts were the same production parts
that were used on all the cars up through VIN...560, which
was required for the emission certification.
Although VIN #20 did use a few pre-production cosmetic parts
(fascias) the entire drive-train used production parts.
VIN #20 was a pilot car built with production components.
The prototypes were built as "one-offs" or as "mock-ups".
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Valuch <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
> I meant originally from the factory a title not issued would make
it a
> prototype if it was not exactly like production cars. Vin #20
needed a
> title to be driven on city roads for showing to the public, this
is
> still a prototype car because most parts on this car changed for
> production purposes.
>
> I am talking about VIN 570 not being a prototype, all this is an
early
> production model and nothing more.
>
> Mark
>
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 21:15:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Disconnecting Idle Speed Motor Electrical Connection
Actually idle speed motor remains in whatever position valve open to
at time electricity disconnected.
If motor/cold start tube are capped off, engine will struggle briefly
to breathe through PCV, then die.
If you remember my engine from Fall Foliage, has no idle speed motor.
Will not idle without brass bypass/balancing screws.
This assumes throttle plates tight and fully closed, of course.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> Did I recently read a post that said if you disconnect the wires
going to the
> idle speed "motor" the engine should stall? Why is that?
>
> Mine certainly does not.
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 13:16:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New problems on #3299
Hey there everyone.
I have been working alot on #3299 that I bought Nov 11th. Replaced the governor, vacuum modulator, applied the major tuneup kit for automatics, flushed the fuel lines, and replaced the control pressure regulator. Now I have two new symptoms, everyone - give me your best ideas.
1. The cooling fans are not coming on. This is extremely vague as is; I have not tested to see if they ARE coming on when turning on the A/C. I will let everyone know as soon as I can if they are coming on when flipping on the A/C. The car dumped ALOT of coolant with light smoke coming out the very back rear-end. (This is after the car has been driven for 25+ minutes)
2. The car is idling very high. When I first got it, it idle'd around 900-1100 rpm. Now it's idling around 1500rpm-2400rpm. It gets progressively worse; the car doesn't idle anywhere near that high when first turned on. It goes from low rpms to high rpms as the car warms up.
I've tried to describe the problems to the best of my ability. If anyone has any ideas what the problems might be, please let me know. I just today got the workshop manual, so please excuse me if I sound completely naive; I haven't even been able to look at the manual yet.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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