There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: TOBY-TAB update
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: wheel color
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: TOBY-TAB update
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
4. 81 Black 5spd Turbo DeLorean for sale
From: "apgiapgi" <clarkdmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: wheel color
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: wheel color
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: TOBY-TAB update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. nice Delorean for sale, make offer
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:44:13 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TOBY-TAB update
Actually, there are two Pearce Design solutions for the known
limitations of the original trailing arm mounting solution.
If you look at the photos on the PDC website, you can see the
differences between the first and second T/A re-designs.
The first re-design is based on using the existing OEM trailing
arms and the second is based on the new PDC trailing arms. The
first re-design is on Bryan's original prototype SS frame that
has over 100,000 miles on it (with OEM type TAB's) in which he
uses the original OEM epoxy coated mild steel trailing arms.
The first re-design was never marketed as an "add on" kit, but
with all the recent discussions on trailing arm support, I will
talk to Bryan an Reg Pearce about designing this in a kit form.
The only draw-backs I can see about installing a kit based upon
the first PDC re-design would be the need to separate the body
from the frame to install the kit and concern over structural
integrity of the existing frame where the kit would be mounted.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
>
> snip <
>
> I am in Toby's camp here. We're all attempting to cure the
symptoms as
> curing the disease means redesigning the rear suspension (I know
about
> Pearce-design's solution, but not many of us want to go that far) -
>
> snip <
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:49:34 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wheel color
An excerpt from Service Bullitin ST-02-2/82 recently posted to the
DMCNEWS.com website about painting the body panels, wheels, and
fascias...
"Road Wheels
Since the road wheels have a color coating that is impreg-
nated into the surface as part of the heat treatment used
to temper the alloy, with an epoxy clear coat applied over
that, the adhesion of another color coat will be difficult
to achieve even with careful preparation. Again, it is
suggested that you consult with your local paint distributor
before proceeding."
I'm not sure really what this means (seems a lot more exotic then
simple paint), but it would certainly help all those painting buffs
out there. FYI, my wheels are flaking terribly.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
wrote:
> Can you confirm this? Certainly, they all flake as if painted, and
I
> thought powder coating was a relatively new process? FWIW though, I
> agree with you, though it may be tricky finding a powder coating
place
> who can match early grey wheels - I ended up having mine painted,
but to
> a smooth, keyed surface.
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> PRC1216@xxxx wrote:
>
> >Powdercoating is the way to go. Its more durable than paint and
resists nicks and scratches more. They were originally powdercoated
from the factory, not painted.
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 14:44:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TOBY-TAB update
I am also in Toby's camp.
Referring to this as a "catch" and not allowing movement ...
To reiterate my last email & to quote from earlier this year when on this topic
[message #30794],
"Dave said that this is NOT primarily a 'catch' all though it can act as one if
need be. It is mainly a support. Also Dave commented on the side to side twisting
motion that Toby mentioned stating that the amount is minimal enough that the
bushings in this setup can allow for such movement."
When developing the brackets they did have the trailing arm bolt hooked up to a
computer to measure movement both without and with the bracket in place. The
result mentioned in the above paragraph.
Since I suck at formulating coherent thought into writing [just ask my pal Jim -
I also have the English grades to prove it] here is another quote from earlier
this year. Yet another opinion but take it for what it's worth.
message #30804
"I installed Dave Brackets on my V8 DeLorean in addition to changing bolts.
However, prior to installing the brackets I measured the movement of the bolt end
under full load acceleration using a piece of clay. I then installed the brackets
and remeasured the movement. The brackets reduced the forward movement of the end
of the bolt by almost 1/2". They clearly are to me superior to just having a bolt
into the frame for
high horsepower applications.
BOB [Brandys]"
As far as the design, Dave is a mechanic not an engineer. So laugh away. Grady
wasn't laughing, at least not to my face. He said it would be overkill for me to
put the Toby Tabs on my car. I then offered the extinct bolts to someone who
needed them.
I will keep you all posted if my epoxy cracks or frame rusts because of the
brackets. So far so good - least 12 yrs.
3lbs or less? Don't know.
Again, for "real" specs on the brackets and/or questions give Dave a call and get
it from "the horses mouth" rather than a posted guess-da-ment or a customer once
removed.
Shannon Y
16506
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:59:27 -0000
From: "apgiapgi" <clarkdmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 81 Black 5spd Turbo DeLorean for sale
Just wanted to let you guys know that a 1981 DMC, VIN 1776, Turbo,
Black interior, 5 speed manual is for sale in Fort Walton Beach,
Florida. This is a one owner, complete history is available by
calling (850) 651-6616 preferably between 5pm and 8pm central time.
Harry Costanza is the seller. The car has all upgrades from when it
was new. The turbo upgrade was professionally done by a Volvo
mechanic with DeLorean experience in South Florida.
Asking $19,000.00 - call Harry and make him a reasonable offer!
Clark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 23:31:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
Is actually a problem endemic to all PRV's, not DeLoreans (are there
even any 7mm bolts on remainder of car?)
If you ever do strip 7x1mm bolt hole, 5/16-24 taps VERY nicely as a
replacement. 1mm pitch translates into slight fraction more than 24
TPI. Tap will follow remaining threads as easily as bolt itself.
7mm hardware from industrial suppliers, but you need to order in bags
of 100. My local NAPA sells individually (grade 8.8), but cost about
45 cents each.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I suppose
> there may have been a few instances where a different thread or type
> of bolt could have been used, but well, I didn't want to have to
> replace them later if they would break off or come loose because the
> thread was not fine enough or the metal was too soft.
>
> Only with a DeLorean...
>
>
> Matt
> #1604
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, rbrogren@xxxx wrote:
> > This is a thank you message, but first let me give some background:
> >
> > Back in May my D decided to dump the coolant right as I pulled in to
> a Volvo
> > dealership lot (while picking up my car that was in for regular
> service). I
> > didn't have time to tow it back home so I asked my favorite mechanic
> there to
> > take a look and I would call back. When I came back they had
> replaced one of the
> > short hoses on top, at a cost of $146.70 but it still had a leak,
> "probably
> > the water pump". I was quoted $1250 to $1500 to replace the pump. I
> had heard
> > and read here about the tribulations of that job and since there was
> no way I
> > would pay that much I decided to do it myself. For various reasons I
> didn't
> > have time to get to it until about a month ago. In the meantime I
> had been
> > studying the manual, parts manual, service bulletins and although
> they gave me a
> > pretty good idea what I was in for I ended up several times just
> standing there
> > staring at the jumble of components, hoses and fuel lines to figure
> out where
> > to start. In desperation I started to search the arcives and came
> across two
> > excellent articles that proved to be invaluable! At the end of the
> disassembly
> > process the engine compartment looked like a x-mas tree, with
> connection tags
> > on strings all over the place. The reassembly process is going as
> well as can
> > be expeted -- slower than molasses, but I don't mind the time
because I
> > certainly don't want to redo it!
> >
> > The only problem (so far) is that I broke off one of the 7Mx35
> socket head
> > bolts on the back of the waterpump housing when I disassembled tho
> old one to
> > get the back casing for the new pump. Have you ever tried to find
> that type and
> > size of a bolt? Impossible locally and that includes mayn well
stocked
> > hardware stores, industrial fastener dealers and Volvo and other
> import shops! Almost
> > two days wasted running around until I gave up and called Rob.
> >
> > Now to the kudos:
> > A sincere thank you to Dave Swingle and Peter Lucas for their
> write-ups and
> > pictures in the Tech Archives. Without the help of what they wrote I
> would
> > probably have been stumped several times and probably made a number
> of mistakes!
> > And a great big thank you to Rob Grady for his invaluable advice
during
> > several phone calls and for their rapid deliveries of the parts!
> (Now, if the USPS
> > Express Overnight snail mail would deliver the 7mm bolt I can get
> the intake
> > and all the rest of the spagetti reinstalled!)
> >
> > I have said it before: Without the DML experts and archives and your
> favorite
> > parts suppliers, the Delorean would just be a memory!
> >
> > Roger
> > VIN 1074
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 01:37:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wheel color
Painting with a clear coat will hold up fine if you prepare the
wheel correctly. I did mine about 15 years ago and they still look
good. I scraped a curb just this year and a little NAPA touch up
paint hides the scrape nicely. However, powder coating these days is
perfected. DMCH wheels look terrific - have you priced an exchange?
Pretty hard to beat.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, casey barlow <dmc1288mph@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, I want to repaint my wheels,anyone know the paint
> code for the light colored wheels, if there is one? I
> want to bead blast them and repaint them with
> base/clear. Will this work? Thanks Casey VIN# 3270
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 01:44:22 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
Correct. Even over here M7 is a "funny" size. M3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 and 12
are all commonplace.
content22207 wrote:
>Is actually a problem endemic to all PRV's, not DeLoreans (are there
>even any 7mm bolts on remainder of car?)
>
>If you ever do strip 7x1mm bolt hole, 5/16-24 taps VERY nicely as a
>replacement. 1mm pitch translates into slight fraction more than 24
>TPI. Tap will follow remaining threads as easily as bolt itself.
>
>7mm hardware from industrial suppliers, but you need to order in bags
>of 100. My local NAPA sells individually (grade 8.8), but cost about
>45 cents each.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 02:58:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wheel color
Powder coating is a very hard, durable coating. One of it's
limitations is repair and recoating. Since it is so hard to do a spot
repair it is recomended that you strip the part (which is harder to do
than epoxy coatings!) and repaint. Powder coating has been "perfected"
since the 70's. The main thrust of development now is lower
temperature curable coatings. In the beginning you had to heat the
part to over 450 degrees F. This prevented powder coating many types
of parts. Eastwood has a whole line of powder coating equipment and
colors to choose from but if you are not going to do a lot then it
makes sense to send the parts out and have them done profesionally.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote:
> Painting with a clear coat will hold up fine if you prepare the
> wheel correctly. I did mine about 15 years ago and they still look
> good. I scraped a curb just this year and a little NAPA touch up
> paint hides the scrape nicely. However, powder coating these days is
> perfected. DMCH wheels look terrific - have you priced an exchange?
> Pretty hard to beat.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, casey barlow <dmc1288mph@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi, I want to repaint my wheels,anyone know the paint
> > code for the light colored wheels, if there is one? I
> > want to bead blast them and repaint them with
> > base/clear. Will this work? Thanks Casey VIN# 3270
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
> > http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:09:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TOBY-TAB update
With all this talk about the trailing arm bolts I guess nothing is
indestructable. The BEST advice, no matter what kind of bolts you are
using, is to inspect the trailing arm bolts and washers OFTEN. A
"trick" that is often used on aircraft is to use "witness marks". This
is nothing more than a fancy nail polish. You put it on the part you
want to watch like a bolt head or nut. Spread enough so it goes in a
line over the head of the bolt onto the washer. Now when you inspect
and you see the nail polish is cracked you know something moved. You
could also use a magic marker and write the # of washers nearby on the
frame so when you inspect or work in that area you know how many are
supposed to be there. Ask your wife or girlfriend for some of her old
nail polish, they all have some that they will never use, and put it
in your tool box. If anyone asks, it is to do a quick touch-up if you
chip a nail while you are working on the car! I also use it so if
anyone messes with a part I know immediatly if it was touched. It is
also handy when you take things apart, after centerpunching you can
put a drop in the dimple to make it easier to see.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx> wrote:
> Actually, there are two Pearce Design solutions for the known
> limitations of the original trailing arm mounting solution.
>
> If you look at the photos on the PDC website, you can see the
> differences between the first and second T/A re-designs.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 21:12:18 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
Bill, I have all kinds of 7mm in stock or can get. I just got in a batch of
7mm studs for the exhaust manifold, 7mm intake, 7mm internal water pipe and
so on. Most do have to be ordered out of Gernmany, but I'm stocking a lot of
them if your having a hard time finding them.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 3:31 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
Is actually a problem endemic to all PRV's, not DeLoreans (are there
even any 7mm bolts on remainder of car?)
If you ever do strip 7x1mm bolt hole, 5/16-24 taps VERY nicely as a
replacement. 1mm pitch translates into slight fraction more than 24
TPI. Tap will follow remaining threads as easily as bolt itself.
7mm hardware from industrial suppliers, but you need to order in bags
of 100. My local NAPA sells individually (grade 8.8), but cost about
45 cents each.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I suppose
> there may have been a few instances where a different thread or type
> of bolt could have been used, but well, I didn't want to have to
> replace them later if they would break off or come loose because the
> thread was not fine enough or the metal was too soft.
>
> Only with a DeLorean...
>
>
> Matt
> #1604
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, rbrogren@xxxx wrote:
> > This is a thank you message, but first let me give some background:
> >
> > Back in May my D decided to dump the coolant right as I pulled in to
> a Volvo
> > dealership lot (while picking up my car that was in for regular
> service). I
> > didn't have time to tow it back home so I asked my favorite mechanic
> there to
> > take a look and I would call back. When I came back they had
> replaced one of the
> > short hoses on top, at a cost of $146.70 but it still had a leak,
> "probably
> > the water pump". I was quoted $1250 to $1500 to replace the pump. I
> had heard
> > and read here about the tribulations of that job and since there was
> no way I
> > would pay that much I decided to do it myself. For various reasons I
> didn't
> > have time to get to it until about a month ago. In the meantime I
> had been
> > studying the manual, parts manual, service bulletins and although
> they gave me a
> > pretty good idea what I was in for I ended up several times just
> standing there
> > staring at the jumble of components, hoses and fuel lines to figure
> out where
> > to start. In desperation I started to search the arcives and came
> across two
> > excellent articles that proved to be invaluable! At the end of the
> disassembly
> > process the engine compartment looked like a x-mas tree, with
> connection tags
> > on strings all over the place. The reassembly process is going as
> well as can
> > be expeted -- slower than molasses, but I don't mind the time
because I
> > certainly don't want to redo it!
> >
> > The only problem (so far) is that I broke off one of the 7Mx35
> socket head
> > bolts on the back of the waterpump housing when I disassembled tho
> old one to
> > get the back casing for the new pump. Have you ever tried to find
> that type and
> > size of a bolt? Impossible locally and that includes mayn well
stocked
> > hardware stores, industrial fastener dealers and Volvo and other
> import shops! Almost
> > two days wasted running around until I gave up and called Rob.
> >
> > Now to the kudos:
> > A sincere thank you to Dave Swingle and Peter Lucas for their
> write-ups and
> > pictures in the Tech Archives. Without the help of what they wrote I
> would
> > probably have been stumped several times and probably made a number
> of mistakes!
> > And a great big thank you to Rob Grady for his invaluable advice
during
> > several phone calls and for their rapid deliveries of the parts!
> (Now, if the USPS
> > Express Overnight snail mail would deliver the 7mm bolt I can get
> the intake
> > and all the rest of the spagetti reinstalled!)
> >
> > I have said it before: Without the DML experts and archives and your
> favorite
> > parts suppliers, the Delorean would just be a memory!
> >
> > Roger
> > VIN 1074
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:16:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 7x1mm Bolts on PRV
A good solution and very tempting. The BIG drawback is if you or
anyone ever takes it apart you will mix up the bolts and not put it
back in the right spot. Now you have 2 stripped bolts. It is always
best to try to keep things origional if you can but I know sometimes
you have to take shortcuts. Just be aware of the pitfalls. It is not
that hard to get the right bolts and coil inserts. Even Home Depot now
sells metric hardware. You can always buy a longer bolt and cut it
down if you have to. When working in the water pump area you have to
expect to break one of the bolts so be prepared.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Is actually a problem endemic to all PRV's, not DeLoreans (are there
> even any 7mm bolts on remainder of car?)
>
> If you ever do strip 7x1mm bolt hole, 5/16-24 taps VERY nicely as a
> replacement. 1mm pitch translates into slight fraction more than 24
> TPI. Tap will follow remaining threads as easily as bolt itself.
>
> 7mm hardware from industrial suppliers, but you need to order in bags
> of 100. My local NAPA sells individually (grade 8.8), but cost about
> 45 cents each.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > I suppose
> > there may have been a few instances where a different thread or type
> > of bolt could have been used, but well, I didn't want to have to
> > replace them later if they would break off or come loose because the
> > thread was not fine enough or the metal was too soft.
> >
> > Only with a DeLorean...
> >
> >
> > Matt
> > #1604
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, rbrogren@xxxx wrote:
> > > This is a thank you message, but first let me give some background:
> > >
> > > Back in May my D decided to dump the coolant right as I pulled in to
> > a Volvo
> > > dealership lot (while picking up my car that was in for regular
> > service). I
> > > didn't have time to tow it back home so I asked my favorite mechanic
> > there to
> > > take a look and I would call back. When I came back they had
> > replaced one of the
> > > short hoses on top, at a cost of $146.70 but it still had a leak,
> > "probably
> > > the water pump". I was quoted $1250 to $1500 to replace the pump. I
> > had heard
> > > and read here about the tribulations of that job and since there was
> > no way I
> > > would pay that much I decided to do it myself. For various reasons I
> > didn't
> > > have time to get to it until about a month ago. In the meantime I
> > had been
> > > studying the manual, parts manual, service bulletins and although
> > they gave me a
> > > pretty good idea what I was in for I ended up several times just
> > standing there
> > > staring at the jumble of components, hoses and fuel lines to figure
> > out where
> > > to start. In desperation I started to search the arcives and came
> > across two
> > > excellent articles that proved to be invaluable! At the end of the
> > disassembly
> > > process the engine compartment looked like a x-mas tree, with
> > connection tags
> > > on strings all over the place. The reassembly process is going as
> > well as can
> > > be expeted -- slower than molasses, but I don't mind the time
> because I
> > > certainly don't want to redo it!
> > >
> > > The only problem (so far) is that I broke off one of the 7Mx35
> > socket head
> > > bolts on the back of the waterpump housing when I disassembled tho
> > old one to
> > > get the back casing for the new pump. Have you ever tried to find
> > that type and
> > > size of a bolt? Impossible locally and that includes mayn well
> stocked
> > > hardware stores, industrial fastener dealers and Volvo and other
> > import shops! Almost
> > > two days wasted running around until I gave up and called Rob.
> > >
> > > Now to the kudos:
> > > A sincere thank you to Dave Swingle and Peter Lucas for their
> > write-ups and
> > > pictures in the Tech Archives. Without the help of what they wrote I
> > would
> > > probably have been stumped several times and probably made a number
> > of mistakes!
> > > And a great big thank you to Rob Grady for his invaluable advice
> during
> > > several phone calls and for their rapid deliveries of the parts!
> > (Now, if the USPS
> > > Express Overnight snail mail would deliver the 7mm bolt I can get
> > the intake
> > > and all the rest of the spagetti reinstalled!)
> > >
> > > I have said it before: Without the DML experts and archives and your
> > favorite
> > > parts suppliers, the Delorean would just be a memory!
> > >
> > > Roger
> > > VIN 1074
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 23:23:21 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: nice Delorean for sale, make offer
It bothers me that I have been trying to sell my Delorean for so long and haven't even gotten offers. I have been asking 18,000 for my car and the reserve was 16,500. Which if I may say is a great deal. It is a '82 with 5spd and grey interior. It is turnkey and very nice, plus many extras, and it is even autographed by JZD. Check it out at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2447754905
If you are looking for a nice car just make me an offer. I will consider almost anything. I am easy to deal with and will not play those annoying games.
Casey at (614) 832-8728 putsch.1@xxxxxxxx
(No coments please Mr. Strickland)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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