[DML] Digest Number 1766
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[DML] Digest Number 1766



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1766

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Re: Goodyear NCT tires
           From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
      2. Re: Goodyear NCT tires
           From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
      4. Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe
           From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Car Covers
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
      6. Re: Car Covers
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Windshield Washer Help
           From: "Dan" <dan.foss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Rebuilding the computer governor
           From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: Car Covers
           From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Goodyear NCT tires
           From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe
           From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Delaware Valley PA DeLorean members
           From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli@xxxxxxx>
     13. Re: Windshield Washer Help
           From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
     14. Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe
           From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     15. Free set of NCT's in DC area
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: Painting PRV
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. Delorean Dealer Sign
           From: "andog62" <asisulak@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     18. Re: Delorean Dealer Sign
           From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. RE: Free set of NCT's in DC area
           From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx
     20. Automatic shifting troubles
           From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
     21. Re: Automatic shifting troubles
           From: Eric Itzel <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. Re: Automatic shifting troubles
           From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
     23. Re: Automatic shifting troubles
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
     24. Re: Windshield Washer Help
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     25. driving to MD this weekend
           From: Eric Itzel <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:03:32 EST
   From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Goodyear NCT tires

If you are looking for NCT's I have a few pairs for sale

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
   Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:42:55 -0800 (PST)
   From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Goodyear NCT tires

It seems the tire discussion comes up more often than any other topic. I think the consensus is that the Michelin Pilot's are the best replacement for the DeLorean at this time. They will both improve ride quality, and handling. They're lightyears above the old Yokohama's that everyone in the DeLo community used to swear by (in my humble opinion). The tires are a little pricey, but look right on the car. Everyone has their own 2 cents on the tires however.

Originally the DeLorean was supposed to be equipped with Pirelli P7's. DeLorean made a point of it to design the suspension of the cars for those tires from articles and telex's and other documentation I've seen. They must have been about the best tires of the day. The NCT's were used in the end for cost purposes. The production DeLorean's every feature can be pretty much explained by cost though. JZD ended up getting very few of his original ideas into the finished car.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


--- "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Wow, that was informative, I didnt realize they werent that good i
should take them off my car then. i thought keeping them on was a
good idea maybe i should just shelf them since theyre virtually
new...whats the consensus on replacement tires?

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team wins! Free limited-time trial at http://www.AllSportsMarket.com



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Message: 3
   Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:52:06 EST
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe

In a message dated 11/23/03 6:20:36 PM Central Standard Time,
hmcelraft@xxxxxxx writes:

> John Hervey suggested filling with silicone - which I will probably
> do soon when I get in there for a major tune-up. The other approach
> would be to pour some antifreeze in there and let it "burn off". I
> did this by accident once and the next time I got to examine the
> area it was lined, under the trash, with an antifreeze goo that
> seemed to protect the metal quite well. This was Houston where water
> seldom freezes.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354

Unwise.  Ethylene-glycol itself is corrosive and acidic.  Corrosion
inhibitors are added to the coolant (silicates, phosphates, borates in traditional
green antifreeze, organic salts in the Dex-Cool stuff) to keep it from eating your
engine inside-out.  intentially pouring coolant into hard-to-reach places on
the engine is bound to cause damage anywhere it can sit somewhere and fester.

filling the pockets with silicone may be a bad idea too.  if the fins really
are heatsinks, changing the cooling ability of the engine is also asking for
trouble.  you could develop hot spots in the cylinders, etc.  if you just want
to keep them clean, how about finding some way to put some stainless steel
mesh over the pockets to keep leaves from falling in?  then you could just hose
it out.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:48:14 -0000
   From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe

I don't think I'd like that idea at all. Anti-freeze when constantly
exposed to air gets very corrosive to aluminum - that's why your
coolant pipes rot thru from the outside in, in the area just outside
of the hose clamps, i.e. between the clamp and the outside end of the
rubber tubing.

My guess is that the engines that have rotted thru in that spot had
cooling system leaks in that area that went unrepaired for a long
time. I think the silicone thing may have similar issues, eventually
trapping water and coolant in that area. Best thing is probably just
to get in there, clean it up, and paint it with POR15, high-temp
epoxy, or some similar high-quality, high temperature paint.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> John Hervey suggested filling with silicone - which I will probably
> do soon when I get in there for a major tune-up. The other approach
> would be to pour some antifreeze in there and let it "burn off". I
> did this by accident once and the next time I got to examine the
> area it was lined, under the trash, with an antifreeze goo that
> seemed to protect the metal quite well. >
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ablemanse" <s.ableman@xxxx> wrote:
> > List,
> >
> >      I took a look at the square pockets below the internal water
> pipe
> > and found mine completly full of packed trash. I cleaned it with
> soapy
> > water and vacuumed it out. It is badly pitted near the bottom and
> on
> > the side of the walls. What would be a good fix?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
   Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:40:18 EST
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Car Covers

In a message dated 11/23/03 9:58:38 PM Central Standard Time,
henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

> One more note... last winter my windshield cracked and the full replacement
> by Rob Grady was fully covered by my insurance (and no deductible for glass
> either).   You can bet that unless I lied about it, the insurance company
> would not have covered that loss during the winter.  Just because you may lock
> up your uninsured car in a heated storage facility during the winter doesn't
> mean you can't suffer some sort of damage, loss, or even theft.
>
> -Hank

That's why you can keep comprehensive coverage on the car while it is in
storage.  that covers all of the above.

it sounds like in my state (ND), the laws and licensing situation is much
more lax than in MA.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 04:29:00 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Covers

If you have classic insurance and don't use it as a daily driver then
it makes no sense to cancel the insurance over the winter. The rate is
figured for that anyway. Besides, it doesn't hurt to have the
insurance on just in case someone drops something on the car or if
there is a fire and the car got damaged. If a car caccoon would draw
too much attention then you could get one of those fabric outdoor
garage things. Just make sure you SECURELY  fasten it down (right Mike
P?). In most states you do have to turn in the plates if you cancel
the insurance and reregister when you put it back on and for most of
us it isn't worth the hassle. Even if you rent a spot inside somewhere
insurance is still good to have especially if it could be stolen.
Renting the spot won't get you any insurance if the place burnt down
unless you had insurance on it yourself.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 11/22/03 9:53:09 PM Central Standard Time,
> louie@xxxx writes:





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Message: 7
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:02:03 -0000
   From: "Dan" <dan.foss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Windshield Washer Help

This weekend I plan on trying to find out what happened to my
windshield washer fluid squirters (is there a technical term?).

All was working fine until I ran out of fluid one day. I purchased
new fluid and filled up the resevior (what a mess without a dedicated
funnel).

It won't squirt!!

I tried drawing it up the tube to the wipers, and it flows OK (but
tastes horrible!).

I can hear the pump, pumping, but nothing. Next I guess I will try
sticking a needle in the tip at the wipers, but it looks like a slot,
not a hole.

Anybody have experience with this? Solutions?



Let me know,
Dan in Cocoa, FL (3292)





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Message: 8
   Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:25:05 -0800 (PST)
   From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rebuilding the computer governor

Ok everyone, I have a question.
 
  I am looking at replacing my computer governor, as it seems mine has finally decided to bite the dust (after 2 weeks and 52k miles on the odometer).  I would really like to just have it rebuilt, rather than pay $550 for a "brand new" one.  I was wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions about Special T Auto.  I noticed that they rebuild the computer governors.  Has anyone here sent their computer governor to them to be rebuilt?  If so, what is your feedback, was it a quality job or was it a horrible waste of time?  If anyone has any opinions based on experience with this company, I would gladly be attentive to any responses.  Thank you everyone!

 
Jeremiah
Vin #03299



---------------------------------
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Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 9
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:47:36 -0500
   From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Covers

> That's why you can keep comprehensive coverage on the car while it is in
> storage.  that covers all of the above.

Upon reading your original note, I do see that you said "canceling liability and collision".  I'm not an insurance expert, but in the two states where I've insured cars (NJ and MA)... that would not be possible.   You might be able to cancel comprehensive and possibly collision, but never liability.  Just FYI and YMMV.

So, the bottom line is that each of us operate under a different set of factors that influence what we do with our cars during the winter months.   I don't think it's possible to make any general statements or judgments of what one person chooses to do over another - we should just provide helpful suggestions (like David T. does every season - thanks Dave!).

-Hank



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 10
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:12:47 -0800
   From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Goodyear NCT tires

I totally agree with Louie. Last summer I was at Laguna Seca attending Skip
Barber's racing school. The cars used for our class were Formula Fords
converted to Formula Dodges with modified Dodge Neon engines. They were
equipped with Michelin Pilots and as our track time progressed the speeds
were also increased. There were times when, going into a corner, I was
convinced I wouldn't still be on the track coming out. I was wrong.
Obviously a formula open wheel car isn't a direct comparison to a DeLorean
but the grip those tires displayed convinced me of their potential as
performance tires. They'll definitely be my choice when the Yokohamas wear
out.

Bruce Benson



> It seems the tire discussion comes up more often than >any other topic. I
think the consensus is that the Michelin
>Pilot's are the best replacement for the DeLorean at this >time. They will
both improve ride quality, and handling. >They're lightyears above the old
Yokohama's that >everyone in the DeLo community used to swear by (in >my
humble opinion). The tires are a little pricey, but look >right on the car.
Everyone has their own 2 cents on the >tires however.

> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC





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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:09:29 -0000
   From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe

Hey that sounds like a good call. I never thought of putting POR 15 on
aluminum. Is it safe?

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> I don't think I'd like that idea at all. Anti-freeze when constantly
> exposed to air gets very corrosive to aluminum - that's why your
> coolant pipes rot thru from the outside in, in the area just outside
> of the hose clamps, i.e. between the clamp and the outside end of the
> rubber tubing.
>
> My guess is that the engines that have rotted thru in that spot had
> cooling system leaks in that area that went unrepaired for a long
> time. I think the silicone thing may have similar issues, eventually
> trapping water and coolant in that area. Best thing is probably just
> to get in there, clean it up, and paint it with POR15, high-temp
> epoxy, or some similar high-quality, high temperature paint.
>
> Dave S
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > John Hervey suggested filling with silicone - which I will probably
> > do soon when I get in there for a major tune-up. The other approach
> > would be to pour some antifreeze in there and let it "burn off". I
> > did this by accident once and the next time I got to examine the
> > area it was lined, under the trash, with an antifreeze goo that
> > seemed to protect the metal quite well. >
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ablemanse" <s.ableman@xxxx> wrote:
> > > List,
> > >
> > >      I took a look at the square pockets below the internal water
> > pipe
> > > and found mine completly full of packed trash. I cleaned it with
> > soapy
> > > water and vacuumed it out. It is badly pitted near the bottom and
> > on
> > > the side of the walls. What would be a good fix?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:33:13 -0500
   From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delaware Valley PA DeLorean members

Just wondering is there is any interest in a little holiday meeting in the
Philly area for DeLorean club members.  Maybe meet for a dinner somewhere in
SE PA area...your thoughts if interested...Joe



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Message: 13
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:13:32 -0500
   From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Windshield Washer Help

My honda had the same problem...turned out the little tips  had filled with slime fromt he wiper fluid bottle. used a pin to clean out and they worked fine..sinc ethe D is a slit you may need to be creative..soak in hot water? I would check the operation of the system and see if water comes out the final hose at the wiper. then you know its the metal tips...

Mike C



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Message: 14
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:30:29 -0000
   From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: square pockets below the internal water pipe

Seems to work fine on the aluminum brake calipers on my BMWs. I'm not
sure of the temperature rating of the product, that may be the only
issue.

Dave S


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey that sounds like a good call. I never thought of putting POR 15
on
> aluminum. Is it safe?
>





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Message: 15
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:22:04 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Free set of NCT's in DC area

If anyone on list wants my old NCT's (12,000 miles) I can bring to DC
Thanksgiving (same time I'm bringing some *NEW* tires for others). May
also be able to talk parents up there into storing for later pick up.

Am giving them away.

Have been in storage under house (not damp).

Contact me off list: brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 16
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:43:46 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Painting PRV

Check out items 7221T37 and 7221T38 (bottom of page):

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=1925

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Seems to work fine on the aluminum brake calipers on my BMWs. I'm not
> sure of the temperature rating of the product, that may be the only
> issue.
>
> Dave S
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hey that sounds like a good call. I never thought of putting POR 15
> on
> > aluminum. Is it safe?
> >




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Message: 17
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:23:34 -0000
   From: "andog62" <asisulak@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Dealer Sign

Greetings,

I have an orginal Delorean Dealer Sign, approx 4' by 12'. Would like
to sell, have no clue as to value. The condition is good, been
outside the whole time, has a few stratchs and small area of broken
plexiglass. Email with any interest or if you have any idea as to
value.

Thanks,

Andy




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Message: 18
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:59:45 -0500 (EST)
   From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Dealer Sign

Those things go haywire on eBay. Just my $0.02


On Mon, 24 Nov 2003, andog62 wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> I have an orginal Delorean Dealer Sign, approx 4' by 12'. Would like
> to sell, have no clue as to value. The condition is good, been
> outside the whole time, has a few stratchs and small area of broken
> plexiglass. Email with any interest or if you have any idea as to
> value.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 19
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:59:03 -0500
   From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Free set of NCT's in DC area


I'll give you something for them. I would like to use them for a concours car. Are they in good shape?

Michael Pack
Severna Park Maryland

"content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>If anyone on list wants my old NCT's (12,000 miles) I can bring to DC
>Thanksgiving (same time I'm bringing some *NEW* tires for others). May
>also be able to talk parents up there into storing for later pick up.
>
>Am giving them away.
>
>Have been in storage under house (not damp).
>
>Contact me off list: brobertson(at)carolina.net.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 20
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:50:17 -0800 (PST)
   From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Automatic shifting troubles


Ok, I have sent this to select individuals already, but I'm going to shout this one out to everyone just for suggestions/ideas.

 

This is the problem I have everyone.

The first 10 minutes or so, she drives perfectly, shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd with no problem. However, once the car has had about 3 miles down the road, I will have the car in 1st going down the road and it sticks in 1st. If I try to accelerate, I get nothing but engine reving; the engine simply will not go from 1st to 2nd - it is solidly stuck in 1st. When trying to go to 2nd, it's almost as if it's in neutral, and you can hold the pedal down all you want - it will not go from 1st to 2nd. IF I come to a complete stop and hit the accelerator, she will drive no problem but only in 1st gear; the car will simply not go to 2nd or 3rd What I don't understand is it works just fine the 1st 10 minutes or the first 2-3 miles...then all of a sudden that problem pops up.

This sounds to me like the solenoids/computer governor may have gone bad, what does everyone else think?  This is also, of course,why I'm thinking about having the computer governor rebuilt.  Thank you for your time everyone.

 

Jeremiah

Vin #03299



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 21
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:15:25 -0500
   From: Eric Itzel <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic shifting troubles

Hey Jeremiah

I had many of the symptoms you had, then I repaired my transmission
computer. I used the write-up that Mark Hershey did on the DMCNew's website
as instructions and guidelines. I must say that the car drives and shifts
much better now.

Remove the computer and perform the repairs yourself if you can solder, or
get someone who can do it. Trust me, it's worth it.

Eric Itzel
vin 4433
eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx



----- Original Message -----
From: "Enid/Jeremiah" <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 4:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Automatic shifting troubles


>
> Ok, I have sent this to select individuals already, but I'm going to shout
this one out to everyone just for suggestions/ideas.
>
>
> This is the problem I have everyone.
>
> The first 10 minutes or so, she drives perfectly, shifting from 1st to 2nd
to 3rd with no problem. However, once the car has had about 3 miles down the
road, I will have the car in 1st going down the road and it sticks in 1st.
If I try to accelerate, I get nothing but engine reving; the engine simply
will not go from 1st to 2nd - it is solidly stuck in 1st. When trying to go
to 2nd, it's almost as if it's in neutral, and you can hold the pedal down
all you want - it will not go from 1st to 2nd. IF I come to a complete stop
and hit the accelerator, she will drive no problem but only in 1st gear; the
car will simply not go to 2nd or 3rd What I don't understand is it works
just fine the 1st 10 minutes or the first 2-3 miles...then all of a sudden
that problem pops up.
>
> This sounds to me like the solenoids/computer governor may have gone bad,
what does everyone else think?  This is also, of course,why I'm thinking
about having the computer governor rebuilt.  Thank you for your time
everyone.
>
>
>
> Jeremiah
>
> Vin #03299
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 22
   Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 03:41:58 -0000
   From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic shifting troubles

Sounds like classic governor failure. Does the gear selector have
any effect? If you pull fuse number 13 the computer is disconnected
and the trans should lock up in 3rd gear. If that happens then the
trans is probably ok. There is a way to check the trans manually at
the diagnostic plug but see what pulling the fuse does for you. You
can drive it but your takeoff is slow and can heat up the fluid if
you work it too hard.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Ok, I have sent this to select individuals already, but I'm going
to shout this one out to everyone just for suggestions/ideas.

>
> This is the problem I have everyone.
>
> The first 10 minutes or so, she drives perfectly, shifting from
1st to 2nd to 3rd with no problem. However, once the car has had
about 3 miles down the road, I will have the car in 1st going down
the road and it sticks in 1st. If I try to accelerate, I get nothing
but engine reving; the engine simply will not go from 1st to 2nd -
it is solidly stuck in 1st. When trying to go to 2nd, it's almost as
if it's in neutral, and you can hold the pedal down all you want -
it will not go from 1st to 2nd. IF I come to a complete stop and hit
the accelerator, she will drive no problem but only in 1st gear; the
car will simply not go to 2nd or 3rd What I don't understand is it
works just fine the 1st 10 minutes or the first 2-3 miles...then all
of a sudden that problem pops up.
>
> This sounds to me like the solenoids/computer governor may have
gone bad, what does everyone else think?  This is also, of
course,why I'm thinking about having the computer governor rebuilt. 
Thank you for your time everyone.
>

>
> Jeremiah
>
> Vin #03299
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:51:49 -0500
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Automatic shifting troubles

In a message dated 11/24/2003 4:50:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> This is the problem I have everyone.
>
> The first 10 minutes or so, she drives perfectly, shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd with no problem. However, once the car has had about 3 miles down the road, I will have the car in 1st going down the road and it sticks in 1st. If I try to accelerate, I get nothing but engine reving; the engine simply will not go from 1st to 2nd - it is solidly stuck in 1st. When trying to go to 2nd, it's almost as if it's in neutral, and you can hold the pedal down all you want - it will not go from 1st to 2nd. IF I come to a complete stop and hit the accelerator, she will drive no problem but only in 1st gear; the car will simply not go to 2nd or 3rd What I don't understand is it works just fine the 1st 10 minutes or the first 2-3 miles...then all of a sudden that problem pops up.

> Jeremiah
>
> Vin #0329

I think you need to get your computer governor repaired/replaced first and see if that fixes the problems, like you said you were going to do in your previous post.  a bad computer could probably do all of the above.

Andy



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Message: 24
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:56:35 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Washer Help

Pull the resovoir out and wash it in hot water. You will find that the
bottom is covered in slime from 20 years of old washer fluid. You may
also have to flush out the hoses and nozzles and pump. Be really
gentle with everything and be careful with the screws holding the
resovoir up. Sometimes intead of the srews turning the rivnut turns in
the fiberglass. Be especially careful with the plastic nozzle on the
wiper blade, it cracks easily (don't ask me how I know!).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan" <dan.foss@xxxx> wrote:
> This weekend I plan on trying to find out what happened to my
> windshield washer fluid squirters (is there a technical term?).
>





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Message: 25
   Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:21:02 -0500
   From: Eric Itzel <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: driving to MD this weekend

Hey everybody
 
I'll be driving my D up to Maryland this coming weekend for a long
holiday. I'll be in the Annapolis and Pasadena area.
 
If anyone wants to meet up, shoot me an email. I'll be leaving Tennessee
(Pigeon Forge, actually) on wednesday and coming back on sunday. It'd be
nice to meet up with some other Delorean owners finally!
 
Eric Itzel
vin 4433


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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