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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 6x8 speakers in rear
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Garages, Storage, and Spiders
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Midnight madness
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re:Window Problem
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
7. Prototype rear lenses for sale.
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re:Installed El-Glo instrument cluster photos
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 6x8 speakers in rear
From: "Brian" <b_goodman@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. what an outrage!!!
From: "Jonas P" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
12. For Sale: The Best DeLorean in the World, Ever
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 03:14:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
Door is two major pieces of stainless steel -- doubt it will warp itself.
Is attached to fiberglass however -- ensure hinges OK.
AND THIS IS A BIGGIE: ensure entire top of car not being ripped off by
over torqued T bars. That was Travis G's problem, fixed as below:
http://www.dmcnews.com/events/socarolina03/2263roof.JPG
(Don't have a conniption -- William is bearing down on socket
extensions, not T bars).
Remove trim panel covering T bar mounts to see if your roof still
attached.
Before moving striker bolts next time look at striker plates on door
to see where they may be hitting. My problem was front to back.
Corrected by adding a washer to one and removing from the other.
Believe Martin G had same problem so bad he had to substitute a
shorter bolt altogether.
Adjusting normal doors is time consuming pain. DeLorean doubles the fun.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "p12c16" <PRC1216@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey All,
> Today I decided to adjust the way that my passenger door
shuts.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 03:53:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
Do not try to adjust the door to the quater panel, it is done the
other way, the door gets done and then the rear quater (or front
fender) gets adjusted to the door. The torsion bar should have no
effect on being able to adjust the door to close properly.
Remove the front anchor pin. Now try to close the door on the rear
pin. Remember the door closes in an arc so it is hard to line it up
directly. As you close the door the head of the anchor pin should not
hit the latch. Add or remove washers under the pin to adjust. Now
adjust the pin so as you close the door the pin fits between the
guides and right into the latch. Trial and error will get it done. Now
put the front pin in and adjust it. As you close the door the pins
should NOT move the door foward or back as it closes. Now you might
have to move the front or back anchor pin slightly so they both hit
the first locking position simultaniously. Push down on the door in
the midddle under the window so you close it evenly. Do it slowly and
you will hear and feel the front and rear locks latch. Once you can
get them to lock at the same time on the first position close the door
a little faster and get it into the second position. This should all
be done with a new or good door seal. If you adjust on an old worn-out
seal the door won't close if you replace it. Do this on a hard level
surface.
If the door bounces hard when you open it with a new, good strut you
should loosen the torsion bar. It is not good for the door to bounce.
It puts a lot of strain on the roof. Doors don't usually warp. What
does happen is if you drive into the garage with the door open and it
hits the wall then it IS warped. Another point, if the door was
slammed and forced repeatedly then you may have to go inside and do
ALL the adjustments because the rods and links were streched or bent.
You will know if after adjusting the pins you still can't get it to
work right then you can assume the internal adjustments are off. DO
NOT adjust the door hinges. Unless the door was removed you should not
have to EVER touch the hinges. When you have the anchor pins the way
you like you have to really tighten them or they can move and go out
of adjustment. To properly adjust them sometimes you have to grind the
hole in the fiberglass a little bigger to get enough movement in the
desired direction. I guess you could write a book on this sbject to
cover it fully.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "p12c16" <PRC1216@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey All,
> Today I decided to adjust the way that my passenger door
shuts.
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 04:08:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 6x8 speakers in rear
Dynamat is great stuff but I would go easy on it. It is HEAVY and
before you know it you could add a lot of weight to the car! You could
add fiberglass batting in strategic places too for sound-deadening and
it doesn't add much weight. Plug up any holes that sound can go
through like under the dash. Put jute padding under the carpet.
Putting Dynamat in the doors could require a torsion bar adjustment.
Check the fiberglass below the rear window in the center in the engine
compartment. Press down on it and if it moves you have a large source
of noise. Reglue the back window to fix. If the door seals are shot
replace them and that will quiet the car down too. Adding a rear
baffle behind the rear speakers would improve the sound and prevent
noise from entering the passenger compartment through the speakers.
Check the suspension, if parts are worn out the ride will be noisier
then it should be when you go over bumps. Worn ignition wires will
cause noise on the radio. There are a lot of things you can do before
you go filling the car up with Dynamat. Think of the car like an
airplane, any "improvements" usually add weight and that kills
performance and gas mileage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 10/26/03 4:17:59 PM Central Standard Time,
> webmaster@xxxx writes:
>
> > BTW the dynamat was to quieten the car down, not to improve the
stereo.
>
> Another DML'er on here is covering his entire interior with dynamat
under the
> carpets, and i do mean the whole thing. his interior is pretty much
down to
> the fiberglass. i'm interested in how much this quiets the whole
car down.
> depending on results, i may do it myself!
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 04:21:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Garages, Storage, and Spiders
This isn't Delorean specific but it is helpful. I always had some
spiders in my garage. Usually right by the overhead doors and window.
Lately I noticed more and more of the webs. Then I saw them under the
Delorean. I bought some spray for spiders and sprayed it where I saw
the webs by the doors and the window. It is over 2 months now and I
don't see a trace of the little pests anymore. I read some time ago
about a guy that bought a "barn fresh" project. He took it home and in
a short time his house was so infested (I guess it was an attached
garage) with spiders that he had to call an exterminater. Spider bites
can hurt. You also must make sure that you close even the smallest
holes so mice can't get to your pride and joy. They have small
flexible bones and it is amazing the tiny holes they can get through.
It is the time of year when we start to store the cars for the winter
so I just thought I would mention this because I see all to many times
the damage that mice and other rodents can do to the inside of a car.
Some people will place moth balls under the car to prevent animal
damage. A good idea but I would first close up any holes as a first
line of defense and use the moth balls for any that can get past that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 06:53:02 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Midnight madness
The Univeresity Of hawaii used my delorean to open thier basketball
season this year (mignight madness) and the theme was a backto the
future theme. I have some footage of it if anyone is intrested in
seeing it. Does anyone know of any other colleges that used
deloreans to open thier basketball season?...Thanks
John
Honolulu
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 10:12:04 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Window Problem
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxx>
wrote:
> Probably the window switch. You can clean it yourself, get it
cleaned by
> someone like specialTauto, or just buy a new one.
>
>
> Jim
>
> On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 12:22:52 EST lhemb@xxxx writes:
> > I am looking for suggestions on a window problem that my beloved
> > Harvey (VIN 5830) is having.
I agree with Jim. Sounds like a bad or corroded window switch, but
before taking it apart or buying a new one, swap the driver and
passenger switches and see what happens. If the window now works fine
but the other one doesn't then you know for sure the switch is causing
the problem. If you do take it apart to clean the contacts, just be
careful with those two tiny springs in there. They can be hard to
find if you drop them.
Richard
5853
> >
> > Brian McCabe & Harvey (5830) in Florida
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:37:18 -0000
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Prototype rear lenses for sale.
Hi everybody,
Is anybody interested in buying prototype rear light lenses?!
I have two sets of them.
The first set looks exactly the same as the ones that they put on the
production model but with one small difference. There are some raised
letters on the bottom of the lens and on this set they removed the
letters DMC.
On this set are stickers with the text `use for prototype only'.
The other set are real prototypes. They look like the ones we all
know and use but they are manufactured different.
On the ones we all know it looks like the coloured lens is pressed in
one piece and a black framework lies on top of it.
With the prototypes, the whole lens is pressed in one piece and it
looks like the black framework is spray painted on it.
I put some pictures in the `Photo' section under: Prototype rear
lights.
If anybody wants to make me a (reasonable) offer, email me privately
at: debruin(at)dia.eur.nl
Mads de Bruin
Netherlands
PS: The real prototypes both have a hole near the back up lights but
you can see that in the pictures.
You also have to pay shipping.
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 03:33:16 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Installed El-Glo instrument cluster photos
WOW! That looks great! How much did this conversion cost? Was it difficult
to do? E-mail me directly please... Thanks!
---Dan
Message: 20
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Installed El-Glo instrument cluster photos
I've finally gotten the El-Glo electroluminscent instrument cluster from
Ryan Gould (http://www.deloreanautomotive.com/) installed, and I took a
bunch of photos, several of which almost look decent.
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:21:08 -0000
From: "Brian" <b_goodman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 6x8 speakers in rear
A lot of the Corvette guys (myself included) have used the Frost
King material under the carpeting to help reduce interior noise and
heat. Works well for audio also. Here is a link for more detail:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I've done this on parts of my car but I didn't use dynamat.
Instead I went to Lowe's and got this stuff called "Peel 'n Seal."
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:36:02 -0600
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door Won't Shut Right
PATRICK,
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE PASSENGER DOOR ON #4675. IT DID NOT
CLOSE PROPERLY FROM THE FACTORY.
I ALSO WORKED ON THE LATCH SCREW FOR HOURS AND DID SOME MAJOR SURGERY TO
THE FIBERGLASS.
IT TURNED OUT THE DOOR WAS TORQUE OR BENT AND THE REAR WOULD STICK OUT
LIKE YOURS.
HAVING SEEN THIS ON OTHER NON DELOREAN CARS I WAS VERY SURPRISED. I
JUST DID EXPECT IT IN THIS TYPE OF DOOR.
SIMILAR TO WHAT WE DO WITH OTHER DOORS - WE STRAIGHTEN THE DOOR.
THIS INVOLVE PUTTING A SHORT PIECE OF 4X4 WOOD ON THE END THAT CLOSES
TOO EARLY AND THEN PUSHING ON THE SECTION OF DOOR THAT STICKS OUT.
FOR THE D, I HAD TO CUT A 4X4 ABOUT 5 FEET LONG AND POSITION IT ON THE
INSIDE FRAME (WITH THE TRIM OFF). I THEN HUNG OR PULLED DOWN ON THE
REAR OF THE DOOR. REPEATEDLY. EVENTUALLY THE DOOR STRAITENED AND CLOSED
SIMULTANEOUS PROPERLY ON BOTH SIDES. NEEDLESS TO SAY ALL THE WORK I DID
ON THE STRIKER BOLT WAS UNNECESSARY. THE DOOR WORK GREAT NOW.
BOB
>
>
>
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:34:39 -0000
From: "Jonas P" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: what an outrage!!!
I was sitting here at work when a coworker who lives in the UK found
this in "Car" magizine issue 488 page 171.
Top 5 worst cars
Number 4
DeLorean DMC 12
Overweight, under developed, over complicated and Michael J. Fox
drove one.
I for one don't consider the D over weight or over complicated. I'm
just a deep sea diver working in the oil feilds in the Gulf of Mexico
and with the shop manuels and some help from you guys I have been
able to fix all the problems that have come my way (so far). I had
never seen another Delorean (still haven't) when I purchaced my 81
with 12,000 miles, that had been sitting for 10 years. My roommate
and I had it road worthy in just a few weeks and it is now my daily
driver.....how complicated is that?
Here are the other cars that made the list:
1-Suzuki X90
2-Ford Fusion
3-Mercedes ML55 AMG
5-SsangYong Korando
Just one question.....Where the heck is the Yogo???
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:29:13 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For Sale: The Best DeLorean in the World, Ever
Hi All
I'm testing the water with this e-mail, hopefully it'll be of interest
to those with deeper pockets and the love of the DeLorean.
We have been contacted by a guy who is a hobbiest restorer. He has had a
DeLorean project on the go for a couple of years and it's well on the
way to being finished. To say that he has disassembled every last nut,
bolt and washer on the entire car would not be an exaggeration.
EVERYTHING has been replaced or refurbished to the highest standard. The
chassis is the best you can get. The engine and gearbox are both brand
new, but he has stripped, blasted, cleaned, plated, painted, replaced
parts and reassembled them anyway. Anything that could conceivably wear
has been replaced on this car. It's better than new. It is NOT a
concours car because of the chassis, and items like TobyTabs.... all
improvements, basically
...and he is _thinking_ of selling due to a business opportunity which
requires a quick injection of cash. He has confidentially contacted us
with a view to finishing assembling the car, and finding a buyer.
I can supply countless photos of the restoration which will illustrate
the lengths he has gone to on this car. Please contact me off list of
you are SERIOUSLY interested. The price would be in the region of
$60,000 The car is a grey interior manual transmission.
Martin
DMUK
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