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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Tires
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
2. DOA in NOVA/DC
From: "David Silek" <dsilek@xxxxxxx>
3. Lots of ideas
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: BAD TUNE-UP
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. AW: front brake caliper/rotor from another car?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
6. AW: Power fluctuations, normal??
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: Tires
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: idea for the group
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: idea for the group
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. She's here!
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: delorean power steering??
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Minimum offset for rims
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
15. DeLorean model name...and other registration info
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Starting and low idle
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Power fluctuations, normal??
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. running light failure
From: "Jonas P" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
22. vacuum problem analysis please!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
23. delorean air conditioning question
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: BAD TUNE-UP
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
25. RE: Power fluctuations, normal??
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:06:34 -0400
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Tires
>From what I understand, driving on NCTs is still fine as long as they have been out of sunlight and have been siliconed over the years. The only two things that detiorate rubber tires are UV Light and Ozone, NOT Age. Applying silicone/eagle 1 tire shine/whatever should prevent the Ozone from destroying the rubber (dryrot). Look around the outside of the tire for cracks, and you know the tires have not been cared for. New tires are still the best option, but some NCTs are still very useable.
Patrick
1880 "88NGONE"
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 13:10:56 +0000
From: "David Silek" <dsilek@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DOA in NOVA/DC
Any word or status on forming a DeLorean Owners Assoc. here in the Northern
Virginia/Washington Metro. area?
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 13:16:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lots of ideas
This one's easy. The spot already exists.
http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm
Just go to tbe bottom of the above page, pull in the template, write
up your article or instructions, insert photos, and send it back in.
Not familiar with HTML or Frontpage 2000? Send in a text file, note
where you want the pictures, and send THAT in to the address given.
It just takes longer that way since I have to reformat it.
Want to maintain control of your own content? Post it you YOUR web
page and send me the link (like Jordan did).
Dave Swingle < Web page maintainer in my spare time.....
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
>> >
>
> Hi Andy
>
> That's a good idea. The "more knowledgeable members of the DML"
could
> all send their tutorials to a centralized site, such as Jordan
Rubin's
> "How-To" site. (But only with his permission, of course.) I thought
> of him because he already has a well organized and informative web
> page complete with photos. If he approves of the tutorial that
> someone sends, then it could be added to the existing ones.
>
> On the DML page there could be a link called "Delorean How-To's" or
> something like that on the left side of the screen where it says
> "Home, Messages,Files, Photos" etc. Clicking on it would send you
to
> Jordan's site.
>
> Now, please know that I'm just using his site as an example. The
> important thing is that all the how-to's and tutorials are sent to
one
> centralized location, easily accessable to all DML members. Just
> thought I'd add to your idea.
>
> Richard Rowe
> Vin 5853
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:27:20 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: BAD TUNE-UP
If the thermistor comes unplugged, the engine thinks it is constantly cold and defaults to ~2200RPM. Verify the connection on the thermistor, May be able to reach around from behind the engine to plug it in without having to take everything off.
Samuel
John Podlewski wrote:
>High idle(around 2000 RPM's)and extremely rough running when gas is applied MY DELOREAN only goes at about 1 MPH yes 1 MPH and sometimes stalls! It was given a tune-up by the mechanic, which I haven't paid for, at least YET. What could be causing this, sounds horrible and drives even worse?
>
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:28:19 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: front brake caliper/rotor from another car?
Ford Granada, Capri, Escort and some other Ford of the 70s and early 80s
use our calipers. Or let's better say we use their front calipers.
There are also single pistons and gasket kits available. So there's no
need to use parts that don't belong there.
Elvis
Are there any more typical cars that use our same front calipers and or
rotors? I know that master cylinder is the same as a Saab 900 but what of
the calipers? I know that brake pads from a 78 toyota pickup work, does its
calipers work too?
Sincerely Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:37:04 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Power fluctuations, normal??
NO ! If the turn lights would make such a power loss ath the alternator,
what do you think would happen when the headlights or A/C is on ? They need
at least 10 times more power !
You may have a bad connection at the binacle or near by.
Elvis
My car has had minor power fluctuations ever since I got it. For
example, the dash lights dim when the turn signal light is on.
Is this an old problem due to the stock alternators/voltage
regulators?
thanks, adam
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 07:03:06 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Tires
I have talked to many tire experts and they all told me on my 91 motorhome,
81 DeLorean and 65 Corvair, that ANY tires over 7 years of age should be
replaced. I let the motorhome tires go to 7 years and on inspection they
looked good with no cracks in sidewalls or separation between tread......at
8 years the side wall layers were pealing although the tread looked and
measured almost new.....it has 12K miles on them. I replaced them. My
DeLorean has 8k miles on it and as it is over 20 years old, they will be
replaced soon. They still look and measure like new, but they are hard and
brittle! It is my second or third car and does not get much use and I
rarely go out on the highway at any speed with it so have been lucky so far.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 07:42:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: idea for the group
All,
Naturally, i welcome any howto submission to the site.
Credit is always clearly displayed in the Performed
by section, conspiculously placed ontop of each howto.
I will add a section to the site with a template for
people to use. along with the picture color depth and
dimensions.
The pictures could in fact be sent to me and i could
do conversion.
as an update the site will be moved to
www.retrodmc.com
which is not yet active and will be turned into a
relational database.
Happy to say that my delorean went 240mi to Koln and
back without any problems. total 480mi.
thanx
jordan 11613
--- Richard <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > I was thinking today about all the people who have
> problems getting
> their car
> > to idle correctly, running rich, running lean,
> even getting it to
> start.
> > wouldn't it be cool if the if the more
> knowledgable members of the
> DML could kind
> > of form a roundtable and come up with an addition
> to dmcnews.com
> which would
> > be kind of a tutorial on how to properly set up
> your car?
[long quote trimmed by moderator]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:46:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idea for the group
There are a lot of posts on no start, hard start, rough idle, high
idle, hot start, dying after running, etc. It is all over the place
and not logically laid out like a flow chart except for the flow chart
on the ignition system. It WOULD be nice to have a fault tree created
especially for the new owner who wants to get his car running right.
Unfortunatly it is a BIG job. Much of this was learned from painful
experience or the experience of others. In many cases it is just a
matter of going over the work of previous mechanics and doing it
"right". Vacuum leaks top the list. They are the cause of many of the
symptoms that lead to getting the car "fixed". Another issue is that
most cars have multiple problems. When you fix the "big" one you
uncover many smaller ones. For example a car won't start. You finally
get it running but it won't idle right. Well you didn't know the idle
was a problem because it wasn't running! Now you have to dive into the
systems that control the idle. Now it is idling but it has no power.
You fix that and now it won't shift right because the clutch cylinders
are leaking. You get that fixed and the brakes leak. You can see that
this can be a large task. As for where to put it when it is finished,
that's easy. It goes on the DMCNEWS website under technical. Maybe the
way to do this would be to assign areas to different clubs and
technical advisors with some overlapping so everyone would be checking
on each other and you get the widest range of expertise. This is not a
one man project! To begin I would start with research into all the
previous posts and magazine articles.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > I was thinking today about all the people who have problems getting
> their car
> > to idle correctly, running rich, running lean, even getting it to
> start.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 07:47:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out
I disagree with the statement below.
$5K to get a extra 70HP out of a 20+ year old engine
is a awful lot of money. My conversion will be
between 260-300HP, and (best I can tell at this point)
will be about the same cost. When I am done, I will
have a modern technology engine with higher output and
better fuel economy than the PRV. More importantly,
the ability to go to any junkyard or auto part store
to get parts for the engine.
I can guess that some may think "Yea, but your project
is not done!" True, and in the end if it even works I
may blow my target price.. However, I believe the
documented Chevy V6 conversions have been under the
$5k price point. This may have been Duke?
See:
http://www.geocities.com/deloreanvortec/swap1.html
--- Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> So before you go ripping out your PRV, consider
> DMC-Houston's power mods. Their exhaust system alone
> gives about 20 hp, and their stage 3 enhancements
> give 70 hp. I don't think you could get 70 extra hp
> in a DeLo any cheaper than their $5k upgrade. Plus
> you're keeping your car pretty much original... and
> it wouldn't be hard to return it that way.
><SNIP>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:27:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)
Louie G and I ran into pack of rice burners at a fast food restaurant
on the way to SEDOC. Wings, gee whiz decals, the works. Met them again
on a Georgia interstate hill. Easily accelerated past. Never saw them
again after that.
Is a difference between HP and torque. Seem to remember someone once
told me HP measured at "top of the engine" and torque "at the bottom".
Think what they meant was torque translates into actual power
delivered to wheels. PRV has surprising bottom end grunt. Performance
certainly adequate off the line (is not going to embarass you at a
stop light). Where it really shines is under load. Do have to drop
back into 4th gear on really steep grades (overdrive gearing), but
it's steady 75 mph rest of the way to top.
Drive I-95 hills north of Richmond many times every year. Only
vehicles that can maintain speed are my old model Lincolns (of
course), SUV's, and the DeLorean. We play leap frog: rice burners etc
shoot past on the downhill side, then I overtake on the way back up.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxx> wrote:
>
> However, when you pull up to one of those annoying "rice-rockets" with
> the shopping cart wings, the fart-can exhaust pipes and the obsencely
> loud stereos at a red light, you know darn well that despite how
> ridiculous they are, that Honda or Toyota probably has more horsepower
> than your DMC. Sad but true.
>
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:38:57 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: She's here!
[Moderator Note: Please send your congratulations to Erik by private email. - Mike Substelny, DML moderating team]
Yesterday, 9-25-03 @ 5:51am my beautiful daughter was born! Her
name is Lola Quinn Geerdink. She weighed in at 7lbs 9oz and both
mom and baby are doing great. My wife is by far the toughest person
I know. She did everything naturally and unmedicated the entire
time. She was great! If you are interested you can see some
pictures at Http://www.drunkonthemoon.com
Time to put the car cover on the D for a while.
Erik
04512
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:17:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: delorean power steering??
Don't know exactly how applicable old model full size Lincolns are, but:
My Mark V's handle very differently than DeLo. Is more than just girth
-- power steering translates into very different front wheel
movements. At speed LAST thing you want to do is rapidly move steering
wheel. A little dab'll do ya. When we went to Dave Swingle's mother's
house last spring had a copilot who drove part way (in Lincoln because
of broken arm). Reminded her not to move wheel more than 1/4
revolution, and slowly at that. Didn't want to flip the car at 80 mph.
Plus with power steering the only restraint is driver him/herself --
can spin steering as rapidly as you want with one finger, then suffer
consequences...
Really don't think you'd like a DeLo with power steering. Would make
things like Ken K's Dragon Run very difficult. Martin's correct: only
benefit is turning wheels while car stationary.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> The BMW system is more than just power steering - it alters the force
> required to turn the wheel depending on speed and on recent high end
> models, even the ratio is dynamically altered. A quick search on Google
> reveals several manufacturers using such a system and even some
offering
> retro-fit devices. But on a DeLorean? Apart from making parking easier,
> would it improve the car?
>
> Martin
>
> Elvis Nocita wrote:
>
> >Hes Guys, maybe a little bit late for a response, but I couldn't resist
> >as we produce the motors for the new BMW eletrical power steering
system.
> >
> >As far as I know, there's way more than just plug in a motor and it
will
> >work.
> >My colleague who developped the motor and brought it into series
got grey
> >hairs from it and he didn't even install it into a car himself !
> >
> >There's a lot of safety stuff to be aware of when messing with this
kind of
> >stuff.
> >
> >But if somebody is really interested in doing it, I may be able to
help.
> >
> >Elvis
> >
> >
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 19:41:57 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Minimum offset for rims
I have still one "hole" in my registration document.
I need to know what the minimum offset is for the front and rear rims.
I think the offset is the distance from the rims surface towards the hub to the
centerline of the rim?
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 19:44:22 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean model name...and other registration info
Hi,
What is the correct model name for the DeLorean?
I have found 2 variations:
* DeLorean DMC-12
* DeLorean LK Sport Coupé
(what the heck does LK stand for?)
My registration document states:
DeLorean DMC-12 / 2.8i V6
Does any of you have another model name stated in your registration document?
Also, my car is registered with a weight of 1280kg, with a max allowed total
weight of 1470.
Standard rims in front is 6" and rear is 8".
Min. load index in front is 75/H
Min. load index in front is 88/H
Noise level is 97db (at) 5500 rpm
Effect is 96kW
Ccm is 2849
Width is 185cm
Length is 427cm
All this according to the registration document.
Are there many variations from your registration documents?
The problem, as I
see it, is that the DeLorean was never type approved in Europe (and in Norway),
so my guess is that there is lots of variations in each owner's registration
document.
Since the factory is no more, I'm interested in getting as accurate info as
possible to put into my registration document. So far my local traffic station
have been most helpful in changing "the little things" that were wrong to begin
with.
Now, I'd like feedback on ANYTHING that may be incorrect info in my registration document.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:50:21 EDT
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Starting and low idle
I assumed that it maybe electrical most if not all the fuel components have
been cleaned, rebuilt or replaced in the last few two or three years. The car
starts normal most of the time but once in a while it just won't start. If you
turn and hold the key the engine will struggle, and if you pump the gas peddle
it sometimes gives the engine a second long before it stalls. but if you turn
the key then let the car sit for maybe 5min it will start right back up, and
will be just a little shaky and will smooth out after an it runs for 15sec or
so.
Darryl
5898
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 12:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power fluctuations, normal??
This was one of the issues Bob "Zilla" spoke about at the SEDOC meet recently. This is a good sign that your grounds need cleaning, and fuses should be replaced with fresh ones. Bob reccomended some cleaning agent for the grounds that I can't remember right now... anyone remember it? Bueller...?
Louie Golden
VIN- Coming Again Soon! :-)
--- "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
My car has had minor power fluctuations ever since I got it. For
example, the dash lights dim when the turn signal light is on.
Is this an old problem due to the stock alternators/voltage
regulators?
thanks, adam
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 12:13:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out
Hi Greg. The previous responses have pretty well
covered the options available and highlighted the
renault tranny as the "weakest link" in any upgrade
plans. I personally am finishing up the Eagle 3.0 PRV
conversion. I'm using a '92 eagle 3.0 engine which
allowed me to: 1) retain the PRV "heritage" of the D
2) avoid any sort of adapter plates between the engine
and tranny and 3) maintain the Delorean's original
weight distribution and handling. Some other benefits
that came along with the newer PRV were increased
displacement (to 3.0 liters), even-fire configuration,
increased compression ratio, electronic fuel injection
and serpentine belts.
In stock form, this engine won't put out as much power
as many of the other options, but for my project, I
placed a higher priority on the three items I listed
above. As for power, I plan on a "phase 2" engine
where I'll do some of the typical power increasing
modifications (and I haven't ruled out a
supercharger). My power goals however will not be
above the capabilities of the tranny.
You really have to determine what your goals are. Do
you just want more power? Do you want electronic fuel
injection? etc. etc. None of the conversions are easy
and none are cheap. Also consider how much can you do
yourself. (Something as simple as fabricating an
alternator bracket can be costly if you have to have a
shop build it for you.)
Even though the engine I chose was a "bolt-in", I ran
into several fairly major problems during my
conversion. I've covered these pretty well on my
website (www.projectdelorean.com), but feel free to
email me directly if you have any additional questions.
=====
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:05:48 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out
Does anyone know what is included in the $20k Northstar 4.6 V8
conversion?
The engine is priced at around 10k so what else is included?
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 20:30:18 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
My brother did on his Fiat X 1/9. Bought a "Thread Chaser" & cleaned out
the plug hole. I understand it was a Royal Pain in the Gluteus Maximus.
That'll teach ya not to finger-thread the plugs first...heh, heh!
Drive Stainless Robert VIN 6924
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:56:26 -0000
Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs? What did you do to
remedy the situation?
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 23:46:21 -0000
From: "Jonas P" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: running light failure
on my 81 vin 3543, the running lights on the driver's side (yellow
light on front bumper, yellow light on front fender, red light on
rear quarter panel, and center bulb on rear tail lamp assembly) will
not come on. in addition to that, the front blinker on driver's
side works but does not stay on when the lights are turned on. the
passenger side lights work fine. i have checked all the bulbs and
cleaned all the terminals with no luck. can anyone point me in the
right direction to solve this problem.
thanks for your help.
jonas 3543
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 20:19:26 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: vacuum problem analysis please!
Hello List,
i have a number of tests completed now in my plea for help from the smart
guys out there.
to recap:
my car has been tuned for the last three years with two things wrong -
1) the vacuum hose that goes to the distributer advance diaphram was plugged
into the MIDDLE connector on the advance solenoid. this is wrong, it should
have been plugged into the outer connector while the middle should go to the
thermal control valve. i don't know HOW I missed this in the past with all my
work on the car......
2) that hose which was routed wrong had a BALL BEARING wedged into it to cut
off vacuum to the advance diaphragm.
I stumbled across the ball bearing while doing some other work on the car
(cleaning the motor). when i removed it, the idle increased to about 1000 and it
ran rough. here are the steps i have taken since then to try to rectify the
problem.
1) found those two hoses to be routed incorrectly. routed them the right way
as well as verify correct routing of ALL hoses, including checking to see if
hoses are on in the right manner on the thermal control valve.
2) checked timing as per shop manual with advance diaphragm hose disconnected
and plugged from distributor with idle at 775. timing on #6 cylinder
indicates approximately 12 deg BTC with engine at approx 190 deg F engine temperature
(according to book, there should be no advance right now when above 104 deg
F). HOWEVER, when i replace that hose onto the advance diaphragm, i can feel
that there is vacuum on it (there shouldn't be) and it then shoots up the
advance on the timing. now with the timing wheel on my light at 0 (not showing
advance) i can see the timing mark way up at like 50 deg BTC. at this point, the
car runs smoother and better (when advanced and at idle).
3) started inspecting WHY there is vacuum to the diaphragm when the car is
hot. checked the idle speed switch. with a meter, i verified that with the car
not running, the switch does indeed function when activated (checked ohms).
4) started the engine and with it running and at idle, checked the voltage at
the electrical connector on the side of the advance solenoid. got a definite
14.5 volts. this should indicate that the idle speed switch is working
correctly and it is tripped at the proper times. this should also indicate that
the advance solenoid, if it is not broken, should be energizing AND should not
allow vacuum to the distributer advance diaphragm. yet it DOES!
what has me puzzled is that this would tend to indicate a broken advance
solenoid. however i replaced this part this summer already (and perhaps i was the
one who routed those hoses backwards when installing it). i suppose i COULD
have a defective part, but i got it from Grady and it wasn't a used part.
also note that when the car is running, it tends to smooth out for a bit,
then begin to surge a little, then smooth out, etc. the exhaust is very rich,
too. sometimes when working over the engine it is enough to make your eyes
water a little.
what else should i check in order to rule out other possibilities? the only
conclusion i can come to is that the advance solenoid is broken, but it's hard
to believe since it is a pretty new part. any other ideas? other tests of
other parts to do? certainly the problem (or at least A problem) is the
presense of vacuum at the diaphragm even when the solenoid is receiving 14.5V from
the idle microswitch. what else could be at fault?
I am at a loss and would like to continue working on this over the weekend,
so if you have a response, please CC it to my actual email address as well as
to the list so i can get it right away.
Thanks in "advance" (heh heh)
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:25:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean air conditioning question
I need some help with evacuating the air conditioning system.Does anyone know how many cfm to bring it down too? My pump can pull 5 cfm but im sure thats way more than necessary.Im not certified for air conditioning work so I dont know.Can to much vacuum damage the deloreans ac system? It seems to much would cause the seals to fail.Isnt that correct?
thanks guys
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 01:28:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: BAD TUNE-UP
Sounds like the wires are crossed. It's not an even fire six
cylinder. SB 1,6,3,5,2,4 - be sure you find number one cylinder. It
is passenger side firewall cylider. Passenger side is 1,2,3 from the
firewall.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> High idle(around 2000 RPM's)and extremely rough running when gas
is applied MY DELOREAN only goes at about 1 MPH yes 1 MPH and
sometimes stalls! It was given a tune-up by the mechanic, which I
haven't paid for, at least YET. What could be causing this, sounds
horrible and drives even worse?
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 20:07:37 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Power fluctuations, normal??
Adam, Part of it is the old alternator, but most of it would be the grounds.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Adam 16683 [mailto:acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 2:47 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Power fluctuations, normal??
My car has had minor power fluctuations ever since I got it. For
example, the dash lights dim when the turn signal light is on.
Is this an old problem due to the stock alternators/voltage
regulators?
thanks, adam
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