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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. The DeLorean Survived
From: "Dsontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Just Got A DeLorean
From: "rrouya" <RRouya@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: amazing vacuum discovery
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
4. Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Vacuum Switch troubeshooting (was amazing vacuum discovery
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Emission Testing: NOx
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
8. Weird idle fluctuations after startup
From: "Jonathan Lazar" <jxace@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Delorean for sale
From: "buickhawk" <buickhawk@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. keeping the dmc from overheating
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Trippin'
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
15. John Delorean
From: "tjb229" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. idea for the group
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: D. O.A. Election
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 20:03:28 -0400
From: "Dsontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The DeLorean Survived
Power is still out, no phones, cell phones just came back on Sunday. I'm using a computer at my wifes work in Williamsburg, VA.
Just had enough time to jack the DeLorean up on jack stands on Thursday as the water was rising in the street. High tide was at 3:00pm and we were watching the clock and the water rising in the garage. At 3:00 the water was just touching the bottoms of the tires and thats as high as it got. Pictures to follow.
Dave Sontos
Poquoson, VA
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:45:05 -0000
From: "rrouya" <RRouya@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Just Got A DeLorean
Hi guys, I just got a DeLorean. VIN Number SCEDT26T7BD003369. Just
asking if anyone can give me some advice. Like should I take it to
a mechanic and have the entire car checked out or what I should be
on the look out for. I drove the car from San Diego to the Bay
Area, a 500 mile drive. Also can anyone be kind enough to run my
VIN through carfax so I can know about the history.
Thanks a lot.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:19:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: amazing vacuum discovery
Be sure the vacuum hose routing is correct, the micro switch to the
vacuum solinoid and idle motor is working and, the idle screws are
closed. Does the solinoid work correctly? That is, does the vacuum
shut off to the distributor when it is activated?
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
>
> As many of you know, my car has been plagued with slight running
problems
> ever since i got it. part by part, tweak by tweak i've gotten the
car WAY better
> and thru the whole summer it has run flawlessly with only two
problems -
> lower end of the spectrum gas milage and i have always felt my car
ran rich even
> though it doesn't show other symptoms. my exhaust has always
smelled like
> unburnt gasoline.
>
> well yesterday i was doing some cleaning and i knocked the vacuum
hose that
> goes from the thermal control valve to the middle orifice on the
vacuum advance
> canistor/solnoid behind the fuel distributor. the hose felt a
little loose i
> cut a bit off of it to give some fresh hose to the fitting. lo
and behold,
> inside the part i cut off there was a little BALL BEARING wedged
into the hose,
> apparently to correct some problem by cutting off vacuum years ago
that a
> previous owner/mechanic did. great......
>
> now my car idles at around 950 (used to be 775) and when it is hot
the idle
> sounds kind of squirrelly. this is terrible because i think i
have been
> working around this BS for years and now is EVERYTHING out of wack?
>
> this summer i have:
> replaced advance solenoid/canister
> had CO professionally tuned by a ferrari restoration shop
> had timing adjusted
> adjusted throttle linkage and all that
>
> actually everything on my car was more or less perfect until i
found this
> 'problem' and 'corrected it'. i expect to have to get the timing
adjusted, but
> what else will have to be done now? the book says timing should
be checked at
> 775 rpm. i am a couple hundred higher than that. will that make
a
> difference? how do i get the idle back down again? will my CO
have to be adjusted again
> (i drove 300 miles to get it done)?
>
> any ideas on how to calm things down again are much appreciated!!
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:46:38 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...
Hi,
First, let me invite you to take a look at the back of my car...
http://openshoebox.com/images/37793
Now if you look where the rear fascia meets the stainless quarter
panel, you will see that its not flush. It looks the same on the
right side as well. Rick Gendreau has told me that this is due to the
fascia shrinking over the years. My question is, has anyone ever
tried aligning their rear quarter panels inward to compensate for
this? Will adjusting them in this way cause them to become misaligned
from where they meet the doors?
Another related question I have, is that where my T-panel meets the
quarter panels, it seems like you can see part of the T-panel "tabs"
that should be underneath the quarter panels. Does this mean
something is not aligned properly? To me, all of the stainless panels
seem perfectly aligned except for this part of the car, including all
around the doors, etc.
thanks,
Matt
#1604
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:56:28 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Switch troubeshooting (was amazing vacuum discovery
Couple things - I just spent a short while troubleshooting the same
device. It's an electrically operated vacuum switch. Controlled by
the idle microswitch.
1 -this should have no effect on your CO setting.
2- there is a right way and a wrong way for the hoses to go on that
switch. Make sure that the distributor is connected to the outside
(back) connection, and the source to the center one. Backwards you
will get a vacuum leak at idle and the distributor vacuum will "hang"
when you drop back to idle. Emissions problem.
3- This thing is prone to vacuum leaks where the wires connect. Put
some RTV around the electrical connection.
4 - the vacuum switch is controlled by the idle microswitch. With the
ignition on, put your hand on the switch and pull the throttle on and
off idle. You should be able to feel it click.
5 - Hook up a vacuum gauge to the inlet side of the switch. Start the
car COLD. There should be no vacuum until the water gets to about
100degF -in my case this took about two minutes. If this does not
happen you have a bad temperature switch, unfortunately located UNDER
the intake manifold in the PRV Valley of Death.
6 -Now hook the switch back up to the vacuum source and hook your
gauge to the outlet(dist) side. You should see no vacuum at idle,
then pull the throttle slightly off-idle, you should get vacuum
immediately. If not, check the vacuum switch wiring and/or replace
it.
If you get this working right you'll notice a significant increase in
fuel economy.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
>
>
> well yesterday i was doing some cleaning and i knocked the vacuum
hose that
> goes from the thermal control valve to the middle orifice on the
vacuum advance
> canistor/solnoid behind the fuel distributor. the hose felt a
little loose i
> cut a bit off of it to give some fresh hose to the fitting. lo and
behold,
> inside the part i cut off there was a little BALL BEARING wedged
into the hose,
> apparently to correct some problem by cutting off vacuum years ago
that a
> previous owner/mechanic did. great......
>
> now my car idles at around 950 (used to be 775) and when it is hot
the idle
> sounds kind of squirrelly. this is terrible because i think i have
been
> working around this BS for years and now is EVERYTHING out of wack?
>
>i found this
> 'problem' and 'corrected it'. i expect to have to get the timing
adjusted, but
> what else will have to be done now? the book says timing should be
checked at
> 775 rpm. i am a couple hundred higher than that. will that make a
> difference? how do i get the idle back down again? will my CO have
to be adjusted again
> (i drove 300 miles to get it done)?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:00:06 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
The car cranks no problem...just never catches.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 11:25 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
Get your battery load tested. I have seen batteries fail in such a
manner. It seems like there is a bad internal connection. Also check all
of the "big" connections between the battery and the starter. Next time
it won't start jump the battery with a known good one. Take one of the
new battery jump start packs with you on the Fall Tour! David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> This is REALLY strange! 3 times in the past few months, my car has
> refused to start. See what you think...
>
> The first time was a Saturday morning late spring: It had run fine
> for weeks, and was in the garage. It would not start. 2 hours later,
> (and
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:00:08 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Emission Testing: NOx
Put a collector plate on it and you will ot have to deal with Ohio emissions. It's not expensive. Forms are available at the BMV.
Jim 6147
"George Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I have a yellow painted '83 in Akron Ohio and ran into some problems last
>Friday when trying to get through the emissions testing in Akron. In
>previous tests since 1997, when I bought the car, it passed with flying
>colors. This time though apparently the Ohio tests now include NO ( nitrogen
>oxides ) testing which my car failed with a reading of 1650 against a max
>allowable of 1500 ( I believe ).
>
>If anyone out there has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate hearing them
>as all I can think to do is to richen up the mixture a little as NOx is
>produced by higher combustion temps. Perhaps also retard the spark a little.
>I don't hold out much hope for these two dodges since they would both tend
>to raise the hydrocarbons.
>
>As always thanks in advance to the list.
>
>George Ryerson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:00:57 -0400
From: "Jonathan Lazar" <jxace@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Weird idle fluctuations after startup
Hey Group!
I have had this weird idle problem since as long as I've owned this car
(about 4 years). When the car is started, whether it is already warm or ice
cold, the rpms fluctuate between 700 and 1200. It will do this until I
feather the gas pedal to even it out. After that, it sits at a perfect 750
rpm idle. Also, once the car is on the road, the idle is fine. It just
acts up whenever it is started up. Does anybody know of any tests to see
which part of the fuel system is acting up?
Thanks.
Jonathan Lazar
VIN# 4494
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:03:53 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
I will start from the top...where does one find the RPM relay?
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:10 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
>
> Practice your troubleshooting techniques now, BEFORE Fall Foliage:
>
> Remember -- there's a reason behind everything (and also remember: every
> problem has a solution).
>
> Start by jumping RPM relay. Insert a jumper between brown wire and
> white/purple. This should cause pump to spin. If it doesn't, you've
> narrowed problem to pump power supply or ground. Test for power at brown
> wire (fuse 7 could be blown or not making contact). Test for ground at
> pump itself.
[very long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:12:56 -0000
From: "buickhawk" <buickhawk@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean for sale
Hello,
Just wanted to say there is a Delorean for sale in Eau Claire, WI.
It appears to be an 83 (no flap or grooves). Body appears clean, but
small ding on the hood. Interior is cracking and black, but no
cracks in dash. Car was locked and I could not see the vin. Sign
says $12,500. E-mail setwyndj@xxxxxxxx for phone #. Thought I would
help someone looking for one.
Denis
#2305
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:06:46 -0000
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: keeping the dmc from overheating
the previous owner of my dmc hooked up a toggle switch to keep the
fans running to prevent an overheat. I am not crazy about this type
of engineering as i would like to fix the problem. I know that other
owners have wired similar switches to prevent overheats as well but,
as i am new to deloreans, what should i look for in terms of running
this toggle switch correctly? quick example, I had the switch on, and
the car started overheating about 10 minutes later. Any advice? Does
running the AC potenially cut the fan power? The previous owner sid
that it was a direct hook up to the battery. Let me know what you
think, Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 09:33:46 -0400
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Trippin'
Hey all,
My wife Terry and I just got back from a Delorean road trip from Myrtle
Beach, SC to Boston, Massachusetts (where we took the car for a trade
show) , then immediately down to Atlanta, Georgia just in time for the
SEDOC, then back home to the beach. Any problems? Well, nothing that
didn't already make itself known before we left the driveway. A cracked
tailpipe (which I should have welded to strengthen) departed somewhere
along the road, but the guys at a Meinieke in NC took extreme pleasure
in whipping up a new one for very little cost. While there, the
ignition coil ($9 dealer cost, which they passed on to us!) decided to
completely conk out. So the energetic guys had one delivered while
Terry and I took our cue to eat lunch, and we were back on the road in
about an hour. No charge for install! (Of course, we let them pose and
take pictures with the car.)
The D performed wonderfully and it's hard to pick the best part of the
trip because there were so many great things! Zooming around the race
track course with the SEDOC was the final blast.
How much total asphalt did we invite past our tires? 2733 miles worth!
And the Time-Car seemed most happy to oblige!
Oliver Holler
10694
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:39:56 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
Kevin,
I had to have mine replaced last March. Here is a link to the
Special T reference page, the RPM relay is #16. See you in Wildwood.
Brent Lundgren
#17006
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-
references.html
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I will start from the top...where does one find the RPM relay?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@c...]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:10 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
>
> >
> > Practice your troubleshooting techniques now, BEFORE Fall Foliage:
> >
> > Remember -- there's a reason behind everything (and also
remember: every
> > problem has a solution).
> >
> > Start by jumping RPM relay. Insert a jumper between brown wire and
> > white/purple. This should cause pump to spin. If it doesn't,
you've
> > narrowed problem to pump power supply or ground. Test for power
at brown
> > wire (fuse 7 could be blown or not making contact). Test for
ground at
> > pump itself.
>
> [very long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:56:26 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs? What did you do to
remedy the situation?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 15:11:42 -0000
From: "tjb229" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
Subject: John Delorean
Does anyone know if Mr. Delorean gives talks at major universities?
Does anyone know how to go about contacting him about this?
Thanks,
-Tom
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:19:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
You have to figure out if it is a fuel or ignition problem. When it
won't start is the fuel pump running? Do you have spark?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> The car cranks no problem...just never catches.
>
> -----Original Message-----
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:45:38 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: idea for the group
List,
I was thinking today about all the people who have problems getting their car
to idle correctly, running rich, running lean, even getting it to start.
wouldn't it be cool if the if the more knowledgable members of the DML could kind
of form a roundtable and come up with an addition to dmcnews.com which would
be kind of a tutorial on how to properly set up your car?
for instance, it would begin with giving your engine a thorough tune up with
new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, lambda sensor, etc. then it would tell you check
and replace bad vacuum hoses, verify correct routing, etc. then it would
probably come time to jump the RPM and check for proper fuel pressures. know
what i mean? each step of the way would be in a logical order for
troubleshooting your car and making sure that everything is running right. that way when
myself and others have problems with too much seeking, running too lean or rich,
etc, we could refer to this document rather than ask the same types of
questions over and over again.
other things that would have to be included would be properly setting up
throttle linkage, how to test the microswitches and other electrical fuel parts,
what timing should be at different engine temperatures and under what
conditions, etc.
Maybe someone out there who has time could draw one up and then forward it to
another member who can make additions or corrects, and keep passing it on
until it is complete.
good idea?
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:22:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
Relay compartment, under that metal plate. Is closest to engine
compartment. Other two are main and auxiliary relays.
Spend some quality time studying electrical section of tech manual
(download a legend for wiring diagram if your copy doesn't have one).
Note that simplified fuel and emissions schematics are in engine
section. Is best not to start learning where everything is on side of
road in the dark with a flashlight.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I will start from the top...where does one find the RPM relay?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@c...]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:10 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
>
> >
> > Practice your troubleshooting techniques now, BEFORE Fall Foliage:
> >
> > Remember -- there's a reason behind everything (and also remember:
every
> > problem has a solution).
> >
> > Start by jumping RPM relay. Insert a jumper between brown wire and
> > white/purple. This should cause pump to spin. If it doesn't, you've
> > narrowed problem to pump power supply or ground. Test for power at
brown
> > wire (fuse 7 could be blown or not making contact). Test for ground at
> > pump itself.
>
> [very long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:31:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...
Q panels should be butted against pontoon extensions, so you're
probably out of luck adjusting towards interior of vehicle.
Is possible to adjust fascia forward to close gaps between it and Q
panels.
Sounds as if plastic piece above your rear window is broken. Are four
T panel tabs held down by that piece. Without it T panel flops loose
in back. Also catches louvers when raised, wrinkling T panel.
Have heard that piece is no longer available. Since mine was broken on
both ends, simply bent two sheet metal extensions to same profile and
pop riveted to remaining piece. Hold end tabs tighter than plastic
holds center ones.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hi,
>
> First, let me invite you to take a look at the back of my car...
>
> http://openshoebox.com/images/37793
>
> Now if you look where the rear fascia meets the stainless quarter
> panel, you will see that its not flush. It looks the same on the
> right side as well. Rick Gendreau has told me that this is due to the
> fascia shrinking over the years. My question is, has anyone ever
> tried aligning their rear quarter panels inward to compensate for
> this? Will adjusting them in this way cause them to become misaligned
> from where they meet the doors?
>
> Another related question I have, is that where my T-panel meets the
> quarter panels, it seems like you can see part of the T-panel "tabs"
> that should be underneath the quarter panels. Does this mean
> something is not aligned properly? To me, all of the stainless panels
> seem perfectly aligned except for this part of the car, including all
> around the doors, etc.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:44:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
Check fuel supply and ignition spark. Need 'em both for engine to run.
Did I mention vacuum leaks in that long post? If they're bad enough
car won't start. Watch air sensor plate as starter is turning engine.
Cylinder vacuum alone should pull it down at least 1/16 inch.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> The car cranks no problem...just never catches.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@w...]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 11:25 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
>
>
> Get your battery load tested. I have seen batteries fail in such a
> manner. It seems like there is a bad internal connection. Also check all
> of the "big" connections between the battery and the starter. Next time
> it won't start jump the battery with a known good one. Take one of the
> new battery jump start packs with you on the Fall Tour! David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> > This is REALLY strange! 3 times in the past few months, my car has
> > refused to start. See what you think...
> >
> > The first time was a Saturday morning late spring: It had run fine
> > for weeks, and was in the garage. It would not start. 2 hours later,
> > (and
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:25:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
The RPM realy is under the door lockimg module on the underside of the
metal bracket. It is the rearmost of all the relays. Jumper the W/P
and the W/S (I think). Anyway get 12 volts on the W/P which is the
wire to the fuel pump. W/P is the White w/ purple tracer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I will start from the top...where does one find the RPM relay?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@c...]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:10 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
>
> >
[very long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 03:41:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D. O.A. Election
I tried to post a response that I received from Hank Breer. The
moderator bounced it, it seems you can't do that without the sender's
permission. The moderator did say I could paraphrase the reply so here
goes:
Oh grow up. This is the way every large corporation elects it's officers.
Hank used his title of Director so I guess this is the official
position of the DOA. I bet a ballot like this is how Saddam Hussain
was able to get 99% of the vote in Iraq before the war! You can't even
write in a candidate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> I think I figured out how the Ballot works. If an individual gets even
> 1 vote then they are elected to be a Director. They really aren't
> running against anyone. In fact there is a box to vote for the entire
> slate so if ANYONE checks that then everyone is "elected". I guess a
> ballot like this can only come from California! (or maybe Florida?)
> The results will be published in the next DW and I will make a
> prediction, the entire slate will be "elected" unopposed! I can't
> believe a ballot like this could exist in a free country like America!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
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