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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Instrument Panel Lights
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re Delorean went BOOM
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
From: "zdmcman" <zdmcman@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: delorean power steering??
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
5. RE:Aaron C. 's Delorean Sighting
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. BackUp-light Switch
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
7. Help! My new DMC won't start
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Help! My new DMC won't start
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: No power at 4000 RPM
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re Delorean went BOOM
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. back up light switch
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
13. Tuning idle speed circuit
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
14. A BTTF Halloween
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 01:26:51 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel Lights
> I am continuing my battle with electrical woes. How do you access
> the bulbs in the instrument panel? My low fuel lamp does not work
> and if I understand the instructions, the Tankzilla will not operate
> without the low fuel lamp operating properly.
As I understand it - you have to remove the binnace
> Also does any one know what the rear lourved panel over the engine
> compartment is made of and can it be sandblasted? Mine has been
> painted with a spray can and poorly done to say the least. If
> possible I was thinking of sandblasting and then having it powder
> coated.
it's fiberglass I believe - sandblasting would be bad I think.
regards,
Michael
vin 6067
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:29:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Delorean went BOOM
Actually, this was technically a muffler explosion, not a backfire.
Backfires go backwards towards intake (flames out of carburetor),
muffler explosions go forward.
Am willing to bet timing is way off. Spark escaping through open
valves causes all kinds of problems. Can ignite fuel mixture towards
metering device or unburned in exhaust system
Unplug fuel pump and put a timing light on cylinder #1 while someone
cranks car (or run a wire from jump start post to starter solenoid).
Will be well retarded from 13 degrees, but should still be on scale.
If timing mark OK, pop passenger valve cover off. Is really quite easy
on that side. Watch intake valve and you will see TDC. Paint or
otherwise mark timing mark to distinguish and try timing light again.
That will tell you if 180 degrees off.
Doubt if you hurt engine itself. Like David T suggests, check exhaust
gaskets, O2 sensor, and perhaps honeycomb inside catalytic converter.
Check belts and radiator hoses for collateral damage.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> For the muffler to explode you had to have filled it with unburned
> fuel and then it ignited. I would check to see if the camshaft is
> really all right after ruining the rocker arms. Get a micrometer on
> it. A missfiring cylinder or the cold start valve staying on would be
> my first thoughts. You are correct in that a way off timing problem
> could cause this (like having the camshaft way off). To check the
> engine for damage I would try a compression test. This will also give
> you a hint if the camshaft is way off if you can't get compression on
> some cylinders. You may have blown out the exhaust manifold gaskets
> and destroyed the O2 sensor and possibly damaged the catalytic
> converter. You are lucky no one was hurt. I had a similar experience
> but in that case the engine had a burnt exhaust valve and it only blew
> the exhaust pipes apart when it backfired.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "bepositive2000" <BePositive2000@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > It's been a couple long weeks.
> >
> > You guys will probably get a BLAST out of this. I did?LITERALLY.
> >
> > I just finished replacing a couple of bad rocker arms on the #4
> > cylinder. The oiling holes were plugged and the cam eventually made a
> > concave slot in the rocker arms. Cam looked fine.
> >
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:18:21 -0000
From: "zdmcman" <zdmcman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
mY 81 D has a power attena witch was working propely for a few
months and then it just quit.....does anyone know how to fix it...or
what the easiest way to do it is?...it is currently stuck in the up
position...by the way if anyone is in HAWAII with a delorean...i am
trying to get up a delorean get together here in the islands, sept
20th....so if anyone is here in hawaii.... and is intrested... email
me, dmcman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 12:55:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: delorean power steering??
That is a long way to move the fluid. I don't know if it would be a
performance problem or not. The water pump handles the coolant
movement over that distance but the auto trans has problems moving
fluid through a cooler over that distance, especially through too
small of a hose. Some sizing and measurement should probably be done
to preclude mounting something that doesn't work.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski"
<vegascop1@xxxx> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> So what you are saying is that if you could squeeze in the power
rack in
> the front, there wouldn't be any problems to have the power
steering
> pump in the rear and run the houses to the front? Please let us
know.
>
> Ski 4649
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 11:46:59 -0400
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE:Aaron C. 's Delorean Sighting
Aaron,
I know an insane amount of time has passed since you posted this but the D
you saw was probably mine!!!
I purchased it from PJ Grady the day before 2/14/2002 (Valentines day). I
work at the old General Foods building in Rye Brook, you know... the
"Tajmahal". On Friday nights I always go up 120 to Manhatanville road's
connection to the 684 (because 287 is a parking lot) on my long trek to
Wappingers Falls. That's directly past the off ramp of the Hutch. I probably
had a big smile on my face.
I didn't have the vanity plates yet.
It had to have been me! Pretty cool!
Tony Pistachio
#10781 STSSTEEL
Wappingers Falls, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron C. [mailto:slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 12:04 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Delorean Sighting
Hi all,
I spotted a Delorean on Friday night traveling on Purchase Street (Route
120) here in Purchase, NY. Just curious to know if it's anyone on this
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:42:32 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
Subject: BackUp-light Switch
Anyone know an X-ref for the switch for the reverse lights?
Mine is busted; gives 1200 Ohms of resistance in the ON-position :-(
Or are they rebuildable? Doesn't look like it...
And an X-ref for the seals on the tranny for the Drive Shafts
would be nice too; If I had time I could order them in the US,
but the Thanny is on the workbench NOW and HAS to be off of
there within 2 days...
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations... Driving a Nissan...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:18:06 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Help! My new DMC won't start
Hello,
I have just recently purchased a late 1983 DeLorean (20022). The car
only has 4000 miles on it and it's beautiful!
The car seemed to run well after being driven for a few minutes, but
the cold idle surges up and down and the car is VERY, VERY sluggish
for the first few miles whenever I drive it.
Yesterday I was doing some detailing on the car, but when I tried to
start it to put it back in the garage, it wouldn't start. It turns
over fine, but just keeps cranking.
Any suggestions for me? I would appreciate any help, as the car is
now stuck in my driveway.
Thank you
Jeff
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:08:04 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Help! My new DMC won't start
Jeff, Have you done a tune up on it and maybe replace the 02 sensor. Even
with low miles the parts are 20+ years old. The seeking is caused by the 02
sensor trying to adjust the air to fuel mixture. On the starting situating,
if you keep cranking on it and it doesn't start fast you may flood out
because of the cold start valve. If it's hot, then you may have the typical
hot start problem where the accumulator and o ring's need to be replaced. Is
the fuel pump running and it has sufficient fuel in it.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: jeff512tr [mailto:cingular512@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 10:18 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Help! My new DMC won't start
Hello,
I have just recently purchased a late 1983 DeLorean (20022). The car
only has 4000 miles on it and it's beautiful!
The car seemed to run well after being driven for a few minutes, but
the cold idle surges up and down and the car is VERY, VERY sluggish
for the first few miles whenever I drive it.
Yesterday I was doing some detailing on the car, but when I tried to
start it to put it back in the garage, it wouldn't start. It turns
over fine, but just keeps cranking.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:10:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
Generaly when the antennae gets stuck it is because the nylon drive
cable breaks. It is part of the mast assembly. It is the part that
pushes the mast up and down. You might get lucky and find one
locally. They are supposed to be black but the chrome one is more
commonly available. If you are not very handy you can get the whole
power antennae.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "zdmcman" <zdmcman@xxxx> wrote:
> mY 81 D has a power attena witch was working propely for a few
> months and then it just quit.....does anyone know how to fix it...or
> what the easiest way to do it is?...it is currently stuck in the up
> position...by the way if anyone is in HAWAII with a delorean...i am
> trying to get up a delorean get together here in the islands, sept
> 20th....so if anyone is here in hawaii.... and is intrested... email
> me, dmcman@xxxx
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:16:14 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: No power at 4000 RPM
I found this message draft that I was putting together after I had power
problems with my car December 2002. The power would drop off above 4000
RPM. I played around with shim thicknesses but I think that I may have just
flushed a piece of debris from the fuel system. The car starts and runs
strong now and pulls up to redline. Perhaps this Winter I will get a chance
to fool around with it some more.
Scott
Below is the test readings I took while trouble shooting.
The injectors are new and were installed during my major tune-up last spring
(2002).
I increased the shim thickness and the new readings are;
1.7 Control Cold 50 F
5.4 Primary
3.0 Rest
2.0 Control Cold 70F ambient temperature
5.4 Primary Cold
3.0 Rest Cold
3.5 Control Hot engine warmed up
5.4 Primary Hot
3.2 Rest Hot
Original Shim
2.0 Control
4.9 Primary
2.9 Rest
Timing
13@Hot Idle
32@4000 RPM Total
The car runs fine now.
I'm not sure if it was the increase in pressure or if I flushed some piece
of trash out to the distributor.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx [mailto:dherv10@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:49 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] No power at 4000 RPM
Scott, See below.
John Hervey
<< Recently I posted a message asking for ideas on what could be causing
the drop in power at full throttle once the engine started going past 4000
rpm.
I installed a gauge to measure fuel system pressures.
All reading were taken on a cold engine, 70 F ambient temperature. ( what
are your readings hot.)
Control Pressure = 2 bar
Primary Pressure = 4.9 bar
Rest Pressure = 2.9 bar
Rest Pressure after 10 minutes = 2.5 bar
Looking at my chart, it looks like primary pressure is at the bottom end
of the allowable checking pressure 4.9 to 5.5 bar. I can set the primary
pressure to the setting range of 5.1 to 5.3 bar.
My question is;
Will raising the primary pressure affect the Control Pressure? ( Yes ).
Is there a way to adjust the Control Pressure?( Yes, But by the experts. )
How is it done? >> ( Take the fuel dist off and send it to me. )
The fuel pump doesn't create the pressure, all it does is pump volume of
gas.
The restrictions create the pressure. The primary pressure can only be
adjusted by a shim in the unit. ( Picture on my web site.) When it's right (
Yes ) it also creates a back pressure ( trying to keep the gas from going
back to the tank) which will raise or lower the control pressure which in
turn will allow the control plunger to up or down sending gas to the
injectors. Speaking of injectors, Have they been cleaned or replaced. You
may
be starving the car gas at high RPM because the injectors are partially
stopped up.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:17:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Delorean went BOOM
I realized I "misspoke" when I used the word [backfire}. You are
correct it is more accuratly applied to when the combustion pressure
comes out the intake. Unfortunatly once you hit [send] it is too late
to change anything! The point I was trying to make is the same anyway
which, as you agree, the timming of either the valves or distributer
is way off to allow the combustion to escape prematurely. This can
become dangerous because it can cause pieces to come apart and go
flying. It can also damage your hearing besides damaging parts of the
motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Actually, this was technically a muffler explosion, not a backfire.
> Backfires go backwards towards intake (flames out of carburetor),
> muffler explosions go forward.
>
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:27:32 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: back up light switch
>>Mine is busted; gives 1200 Ohms of resistance in the ON-position<<
Assuming all you're dealing with is contact oxidation that can easily
be corrected. No need to buy a new one...
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:31:22 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tuning idle speed circuit
>Checking for voltage on the plug that connects to the Idle Speed
Motor is a good start, but it's not everything that you need to do.<
Yes, quite true. But I must point out that there will *always" be 12
vdc on that one pin to the idle motor, even it the ECU is not
working. Checking for power there is pretty usless, especially if you
reference it to another ground.
This is because the ECU sinks current to the motor, it switches the
two grounds. The plus side is wired directly to the motor internally
through the ECU, checking for it is of only minor importance. Or just
do what those who can't repair it say: Yank the idle system
completely off and make the car "better" than it was designed to be ;)
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 00:11:34 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A BTTF Halloween
Gentlemen,
As All Hallow's Eve approaches I am struck by the urge to go in
costume which I normally never do.
This year, I want to be Marty McFly in the radiation suit. I have a
military issue gas mask, but I need a radiation suit, gloves and boots.
Someone on the DML makes these. They gave one to Mike Cohee, but the
radiation symbol was upside down.
If you could make one for me, or tell me where you got the white
jumpsuit and how you put the symbol on it, I'd appreciate it.
I'm willing to negotiate a price. Please contact me off-line.
I figure I'll pass out candy from the DeLorean in the rad suit and
have a few CO2 extinguishers, or dry ice on hand to make a little fog.
I may even have time and cash to make a flux capacitor. I'll finally
be able to shut my neighbors up, who keep asking me when I'm getting one.
Thanks,
Rich
#5335
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 19:42:39 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
check the inline fuse in the elec compartment behind the driver's seat. The
ears on mine gave up and it sprung apart. The fuse may also be dead.
-----Original Message-----
From: zdmcman [mailto:zdmcman@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 5:18 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] POWER ATTENA IS STUCK
mY 81 D has a power attena witch was working propely for a few
months and then it just quit.....does anyone know how to fix it...or
what the easiest way to do it is?...it is currently stuck in the up
position...by the way if anyone is in HAWAII with a delorean...i am
trying to get up a delorean get together here in the islands, sept
20th....so if anyone is here in hawaii.... and is intrested... email
me, dmcman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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