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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Need Part = little pipe that goes from coupler to slave cylinder
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
From: <krasniy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean will not start
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Rough day on the Rally
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: DeLorean will not start, Part II
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: DeLorean will not start, Part II
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Driving vs. less.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Delorean Question
From: "rubberrep" <106165.1407@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Rough day on the Rally
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 08:51:04 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Need Part = little pipe that goes from coupler to slave cylinder
Mine did the same thing. I just took all the pieces to a hydraulic/pipe shop
and they made me a new one with the old fittings. It was only $20.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve [mailto:steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 4:28 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Need Part = little pipe that goes from coupler to slave
> cylinder
>
> This is very easy to take off, provided your nuts (bolts) at each end
> aren't corroded like mine were. I broke my pipe while tryng to take
> it off - the nut at one side would not turn.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 09:23:47 -0400
From: <krasniy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
I have a "carport" awning setup... 20 wide X 21 long .... This is in Wet
& Humid Florida.... I am going to close the SIDES but the two ends of
the carport will be open. So I have been considering car cover
options... I have seen the carcoon.com "outdoor" offering as a
possibility (I would still place it under the awning) and I see DMC
Houston has some part in ownership... Still I was wondering if that was
my best choice with my current setup???? I have 4 inch insulated panels
(3 1/2 inches of hard foam surrounded by a pice of alunimum on both the
top and bottom of the panels) that I am going to tile the floor with
(most are 3 feet wide and 10 feet long) --sorry if I spelled that wrong
lol)
Any thought? Help!?!?! My D is arriving Thursday or Friday and I want to
"tuck her in" :) LOL
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 13:51:02 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean will not start
I recently could not start my DeLorean. My RPM relay was replaced in
March (new). After cleaning the plugs it fired right up. I don't
know how long it had been since the plugs were changed last.
Brent Lundgren
#17006
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> I cannot get my DeLorean to start. I thought the fuel pump was
bad,
> however when I jumped the RPM relay it was working. I then thought
> the RPM relay was bad so I installed the relay updates, however
that
> has not fixed the problem.
>
> The Inertia switch is closed, so that is not the problem, either.
> What should I do next?
>
> Greg
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 10:15:53 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough day on the Rally
I had this same exact problem with shifting. It was the slave cylinder,
tricky to get to. You mention changing the clutch assembly, checking the
master cylinder, and having a stainless steel line but nothing about slave
cyclinder. I'd be willing to be it was that. Especillay if problem is
intermittent.
Hot start, did you 'really' wait for it to cool down? These cars take a long
time to do so. I would guess accumulator, relay, fuel pump - in that order.
You don't mention if you tried to jumper the fuel pump, did you? I had an
eletrical power issue to the fuel pump. I once heard a trick for checking
the hot start problem. It involved removing plug from the CPR (I THINK! LOOK
THIS UP IN THE ARCHIVE) and pluggin it into the cold start valve. Whatever
the specifics, it worked for me and I knew it was the accumulator. (Then you
need to someone like Dave S or Dan P who live locally and can help you
through the process!).
Good Luck and let us know how it works out for you!
Dom
P.S. With some of the experts on here I feel weird dishing out my 2 cents
but hey there's a first time for everything, right? Dave and Dan, I think I
might actually be learning something.
>From: "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Rough day on the Rally
>Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 13:40:53 -0000
>
..>Trouble began midway through. I was at a stop light and couldn't
>get into first without some severe grinding. I knew something
>was up, because the clutch pedal didn't feel right. ..When this happened, it didn't shift
>properly. I should note it wasn't just a first gear issue. From a
>dead stop, I couldn't shift into any gears without it grinding.
>
>I had to turn the car off several times to get into first during the
>rally. A few notes: Clutch and throwout bearing was replaced with
>17,000 miles. It now has 24,000. The hydrolic line is braided
>stainless steel, not plastic.
>
>Please provide advice.
>
>Now you would think one failure would be enough, right...
>
>Not so. We decided to make a pit stop in the middle on Oswego
>near a farmers field. We both go out and returned to the car. I
>turned the key and the engine cranked fine, but wouldn't start. I'm
>guessing the fuel pump since I didn't smell any gas, and I didn't
>hear a buzzing noise from the fill cap when I turned the key.
>
>Help again!
>
>That did it, after waiting for the engine to cool (thinking it was a
>hot start issue, with no results), the farmer came by and lent me
>his cell phone to call the tow truck. Thanks mister farmer!
>
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 14:54:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean will not start, Part II
At this point it would appear the problem is fuel related. If you are
sure the pump is running then I would go inside the fuel tank. IMHO
that is where all fuel problems begin. Clean it out and inspect all
the parts paying particular attention to the pick-up hose (the curvy
one). It could be soft and or kinked which would starve the engine for
fuel. If you find a lot of dirt in the tank replace the fuel filter
(not the screens in the tank, the metal can-looking thing by the left
rear tire). Even with dirty injectors it should run but after you get
it going they may need to be cleaned. If the plugs are dirty they can
be cleaned and regapped (or replaced). My guess is with that few miles
EVERYTHING is origional and should be replaced like the pick-up hose,
fuel pump boot, cover boot, belts and hoses, spark plugs, ignition
wires, cooling system, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello All:
>
> Thank you for all your help thus far. Here's the latest:
>
> When I pour gas into the throttle the car will run for about 15
> seconds, or until the fuel burns off. I am wondering if the next
> step would involve cleaning my fuel injectors, or replacing the fuel
> filter. The car has only 1753 miles on it, so I am assuming that a
>
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 15:08:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
In Florida you have to put up with some of the most humid conditions
in the US. Not only that but the possability of severe hurricanes and
flooding. I would get in touch with local car clubs and see what
actions the members take to deal with these conditions. BTW an
ordinary car cover is very little protection. Moisture comes up from
the ground (unless the car is on concrete) and can rust the frame.
Small animals can also find their way inside the car. An open carport
offers little protection from a hurricane and could probably get blown
away if the storm is bad enough, especially when you put sides on it.
Isn't it hurricane season right now?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <krasniy@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a "carport" awning setup... 20 wide X 21 long .... This is in Wet
> & Humid Florida.... I am going to close the SIDES but the two ends of
> the carport will be open. So I have been considering car cover
> options... I have seen the carcoon.com "outdoor" offering as a
> possibility (I would still place it under the awning) and I see DMC
> Houston has some part in ownership... Still I was wondering if that was
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 15:28:42 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean will not start, Part II
Unfortunately,
If the car has sat for long with so few miles on it this often (but
not always) requires a fuel system overhaul, consisting of pump,
control pressure regulator, fuel distributor and injectors, and
sometimes cold start valve. The "gunk" you refer to gets into
everything, not just the injectors unfortunately. I tried like hell
not to replace everything but alas, EVERYTHING was crudded up and the
only way to do it right is to replace that stuff and then take good
care of it afterward.
Pouring unregulated, raw fuel into the intake is fine for testing
like you've done but you can't assume you have a rich condition
because you're proabably the very cause of that right now by dumping
gas into it that way.
I can't remember your previous post but you have eliminated all the
electrical reasons for the failure to start/run first right? Like
fuel pump not running, etc? The electrical fixes for this situation
are FAR cheaper than the fuel components.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello All:
>
> Thank you for all your help thus far. Here's the latest:
>
> When I pour gas into the throttle the car will run for about 15
> seconds, or until the fuel burns off. I am wondering if the next
> step would involve cleaning my fuel injectors, or replacing the
fuel
> filter. The car has only 1753 miles on it, so I am assuming that a
> lot of gunk deposited on the injector heads and perhaps that's what
> causing the problem.
>
> Also I removed the spark plugs and they have carbon deposits on
them,
> indicating a rich fuel / air mixture.
>
> Am I on the right track? What is my next step?
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 08:02:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Driving vs. less.
--- Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Maybe the 'honeymoon' excitement will wear off with
> time, but how does
> anyone get used to feeling like you're the Santa
> float in a parade every
> time you take a DeLorean out for a spin?
- - - - - - - - - -
Yes, I suspect you are correct - it will wear off in
time. At least that is what my wife thinks. We've
only had 21 years of DeLorean ownership and over
150,000 miles of excitement in/with the car, so we
can't tell you exactly when it will wear off, but we
know it will someday.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 11:46:28 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
I have had a "Carcoon" for about a year now and IMHO it is the best cover
you can get. Not only does it keep your car in great shape, it exercises and
maintains the battery as well. Once inflated, no part of the cover is in
contact with the car. However, the cover needed for the Delorean is much
longer than the vehicle itself because you must get one made for a "full
size" in order to accommodate the extra "width" of our cars. The carcoon
that is just long enough is way too narrow and the sidewalls will be in
contact with the car limiting its ability to protect against objects
impacting the car while stored. There may be a newer size available that
fits better since my purchase. I have an indoor unit inside my
garage.(transparent without UV protection) Keeps the D nice, dry and cozy
throughout the winter. I recommend them highly. A little pricy but
definately worth it.
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: <krasniy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 9:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Car Cover question??? Is Carcoon my best choice?
> I have a "carport" awning setup... 20 wide X 21 long .... This is in Wet
> & Humid Florida.... I am going to close the SIDES but the two ends of
> the carport will be open. So I have been considering car cover
> options... I have seen the carcoon.com "outdoor" offering as a
> possibility (I would still place it under the awning) and I see DMC
> Houston has some part in ownership... Still I was wondering if that was
> my best choice with my current setup????
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 16:09:24 -0000
From: "rubberrep" <106165.1407@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Question
I guess I should throw in my 2cents being as I am in a reasonably
unique position of owning both an 83 DMC12 and a 94 RT10.
Both are fine vehicles but I would never try and compare the two from
a performance POV.
As for opinions, that's all they are Eric, you tell me that my RT10
doesn't handle well and ill take you around a 45 mph rated curve at
90mph while undertaking a Taurus.
Believe me with 2 x 335mm tires on the back end, that's a lot of
Rubber and a great white-knuckle ride. You should also go to the VCA
website and pull up a few details like the width of the car, its a
lot wider than most.
Taking a drive in a Viper isn't enough; you've got to learn to drive
them to get the best out of them. Being honest I think the handling
isn't great on my DMC12 but I can have Chris Hawes confirm how much
better it is than his (currently).
Its horses for course and these aren't on the same track but I love
them both.
One common thing to both cars: they both turn heads.
John Hanley
DMC12 Vin 6369
RT10 Vin 101937
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <eric@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Dan
>
> Here's my opinion-
>
> The Delorean is superior to the Viper in all things but speed. It's
much
> more unique in all categories. From what I've heard (never driven
one
> personally), the Viper is basically a really fast brick, i.e. they
don't
> handle very well. I can personally assure you that although a bit
slow, the
> DeLorean is very fun to drive.
> > vin 4433
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 15:37:03 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough day on the Rally
Dom,
I felt the same when I first got here. I was told to be proud of my
humility. :)
You are exactly correct sir, if you unplug the power plug from the
CPR, it will power the cold start valve. In fact, when the key is
in "run" the valve squirts continuously! So be careful if you do it.
Unplug it as soon as the car starts. (This has me jumping around like
a frog on a hot rock) or, still quickly if it doesn't start or you'll
flood out.
The power plug for the CPR is just to power the heating element
inside the regulator as I understand. It has ground (power) all the
time the key is on as opposed to the cold start plug which only gets
a ground when the thermal switch in the thermostat cap is cold enough.
Cheers,
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz@xxxx> wrote:
> I had this same exact problem with shifting. It was the slave
cylinder,
> tricky to get to. You mention changing the clutch assembly,
checking the
> master cylinder, and having a stainless steel line but nothing
about slave
> cyclinder. I'd be willing to be it was that. Especillay if problem
is
> intermittent.
>
> Hot start, did you 'really' wait for it to cool down? These cars
take a long
> time to do so. I would guess accumulator, relay, fuel pump - in
that order.
> You don't mention if you tried to jumper the fuel pump, did you? I
had an
> eletrical power issue to the fuel pump. I once heard a trick for
checking
> the hot start problem. It involved removing plug from the CPR (I
THINK! LOOK
> THIS UP IN THE ARCHIVE) and pluggin it into the cold start valve.
Whatever
> the specifics, it worked for me and I knew it was the accumulator.
(Then you
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