To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Squirrly steering
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Air Con O-rings
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Walkthrough for Replacing Slave Cylinder? Need one bad
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Acceleration "sweet spot"
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Squirrly steering
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Idle speed/Circuit Tuning.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. valve cover vacuum leaks
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
8. fuel pump - which components to replace?
From: "gullwings2000" <gullwings2000@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Orlando group = Who's going to SEDOC?
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
10. idle speed/tuning
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
11. red hot cat still hot
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Air Con O-rings
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: DeLorean spare tire
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Question everyone.
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Squirrly steering
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: valve cover vacuum leaks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: DeLoreans on Monster Garage
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
18. Vacuum Leaks-Smokin them out
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. RE: Air Con O-rings
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. 1 Question before I begin living the dream!!!!!!
From: "racaliendo" <RACaliendo@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. CPR Vacuum delay valve
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Advice
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:15:18 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Squirrly steering
I had a little of what you are describing when I first got my car. The
wibbly wobbly drunken steering turned out to be that 205's not 195 tyres
were fitted on the front. The clunk when I turned around corners was due to
the front body bolts being loose. If you open up the luggage compartment
and lift the carpet edge you will see a couple of (13mm I think) bolts, one
on each side of the luggage bay. I tightened them and the clunk
disappeared...
Regards
Chris Hawes
Vin 5255 UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 3:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Squirrly steering
> This may or may not be related but my car had the same feel in the
> steering where it wanted to fall off to one side or the other. I was
> also hearing a clunk sound from the right rear when turning once in a
> while. When going down the highway you could wiggle the wheel back
> and forth and it felt like the rear of the car was swaying back and
> forth with the front. I Re-Tourqed my trailing arm bolts and found
> the passenger side a little loose. The difference in steering was
> amazing even though the bolt wasn't totally loose, now it tracks and
> steers much better. While your there check the tourqe on all the
> suspension components, I had a couple other bolts on the right rear
> that wern't quite up to tourqe. Hope this helps. Tom Clouse
>
> Vin# 01063
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 18:40:31 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air Con O-rings
Quickie
Does any one sell all the O-Rings for the air con system as a set or do I have to order them all individually??
Cheers
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 20:19:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Walkthrough for Replacing Slave Cylinder? Need one bad
Removing the engine cover is also a big help. Put towels over the
stainless steel so you don't scratch it leaning over.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> I replaced the slave cylinder from under the car and it kicked my
ass. The
> clutch spring was tight and makes it very difficult to get the slave
> cylinder in there, especially when you can't see it!
>
> However, if you remove the intake manifold the slave cylinder is sitting
> right there within arms reach. I know it's not a pretty prospect,
but the
> intake is easier to remove than you might think.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Paine [mailto:mpaine@t...]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:55:07 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Acceleration "sweet spot"
First let me disclaim I have no idea what I'm talking about. But I
had a problem like this on one of my other cars and it turned out that
it needed a throttle cable adjustment.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> I finally got out of the garage and onto the road.
>
> Acceleration is shaky. There seems to be a "sweet spot" in the pedal
where
> acceleration is best and anything beyond that is non-responsive. My
first
> thoughts are vacuum leaks or vacuum advance. Is there anything else
I should
> look for?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:19:24 -0000
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squirrly steering
Thats a good idea, While you are checking the body to frame bolts
check all 10 of them. 8 out of the 10 needed tighting on mine when I
checked them. Do a search for "Body Bolts" in the archives and you
will be able to find where they are all located and the torque
values. Tom Clouse
Vin# 01063
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxx>
wrote:
> I had a little of what you are describing when I first got my car.
The
> wibbly wobbly drunken steering turned out to be that 205's not 195
tyres
> were fitted on the front. The clunk when I turned around corners
was due to
> the front body bolts being loose. If you open up the luggage
compartment
> and lift the carpet edge you will see a couple of (13mm I think)
bolts, one
> on each side of the luggage bay. I tightened them and the clunk
> disappeared...
>
> Regards
>
> Chris Hawes
> Vin 5255 UK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 3:58 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Squirrly steering
>
>
> > This may or may not be related but my car had the same feel in the
> > steering where it wanted to fall off to one side or the other. I
was
> > also hearing a clunk sound from the right rear when turning once
in a
> > while. When going down the highway you could wiggle the wheel
back
> > and forth and it felt like the rear of the car was swaying back
and
> > forth with the front. I Re-Tourqed my trailing arm bolts and
found
> > the passenger side a little loose. The difference in steering was
> > amazing even though the bolt wasn't totally loose, now it tracks
and
> > steers much better. While your there check the tourqe on all the
> > suspension components, I had a couple other bolts on the right
rear
> > that wern't quite up to tourqe. Hope this helps. Tom Clouse
> >
> > Vin# 01063
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:13:51 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle speed/Circuit Tuning.
I definitely agree with the meat of this reply which is:
Change things all you want, but when/if it screws up, don't come here
looking for answers because we won't know what you've done and can't
diagnose it through an email.
If you keep the car stock, you'll have nearly 1400 people who might
have an answer for you.
I'll take those odds any day. :)
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
> Modifying your car from stock is fine, I just don't recomend it
> ESPECIALLY IN THE FUEL SYSTEM. The stock system can be made to run
> just fine. The real problem is once someone modifies the fuel system
> then they are "on their own" in that since I don't know what is
> modified and how it was done I (or anyone else) can't help them. As
> the owner of YOUR car you can do anything you want to it, I just
don't
> think it is to anyone else's advantage to try to copy these
> modifacations on their own car. In the local Delorean Midatlantic
> group we had a member that didn't like fuel injection. He removed it
> and put a carburater on his Delorean. He has since passed on but his
> car still lives on with another owner. That owner is going to have a
> lot of problems when he calls a Delorean vender and asks for a
rebuild
> kit for that carburater! I guess he knew what he was buying. I am
not
> questioning your competance, I just think you have to look ahead and
> someday someone else is going to have your car and not know how to
> keep it running. The fuel system doesn't need modifacations if it is
> properly set up on a well maintained engine. A short answer to a
long
> post.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx>
wrote:
> > Alrighty then. let's go ahead and answer two seperate posts with
one,
> > since both are so closely related in both content and demeanor.
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:16:45 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: valve cover vacuum leaks
>>Beg to differ. Had terrible vacuum leak where passenger valve cover
overlapped timing chain cover (mating surfaces not quite flush).
Steady pin point stream of solvent would kill engine. If that isn't a
vacuum leak don't know what is.<<
Now wait, we need to distinguish between what's noraml and what not.
In normal operation there should be no vacuum under the valve covers.
I'm not saying you can't get some there if something's amiss, but if
you're sealing the covers your covering up another problem.
>>Still have bad leak around timing cover crank seal. Most likely way
that air is entering engine is via valve covers (vs block seal).<<
The timing cover crank seal is a pressure seal, not a vacuum seal.
Try this: With engine running pull off the hose at your air cleaner
from your oil filler breather. That goes into the valve cover right?
Any vacuum there? Now cover the end of the hose with your finger and
wait. Tell us what happens. I'm serious, try it. If there is a vacuum
nothing will happen right? You'd only be plugging a leak wouldn't
you? Come to think of it, why would a path to the induction system be
ported into the air cleaner in the first place? Please, tell us what
happens when you plug this "vacuum" source.
>Rich A just plugged vacuum leaks in his cam access plates, again
under valve covers.<
Uh, is that the guy in MD? No comment...
>Have you ever heard of anyone running PRV with valve covers removed?<
Why yes, I have...no problem. Does your engine stumble at idle when
you remove your oil filler? If that's a path into the induction
system, that would be a pretty big leak right? Or put a rubber glove
over the oil filler port, what does it do? Again, there is opinion
and there is data. Port a vac gage into your valve cover and measure
it...or maybe the guy whose the expert on idle speed control can
expalin it to us. ;)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:26:46 -0000
From: "gullwings2000" <gullwings2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel pump - which components to replace?
After noticing a major gas leak after fill-up the other day I had the
car towed to a service station. Upon inspection it turns out the fuel
pump ring (the big rubber boot/seal) was seriously deteriorated as
well as the feed/return hoses. (Not surprsied - the car has sat
unused for long periods and I've suspected fuel system problems.)
The mechanic said if I got the parts he'd do the work, so now I'm
just debating over which parts to replace. I'd rather not do more
than necessary but I also don't want to be penny-wise/pound-foolish.
For all I know the fuel pump is fully functional but I'm leaning
towards replacing it anyway. I'm wondering how far down the "chain"
to go though, ie. the fuel tubes, elbow, tee, etc. I can understand
the rubber components being deteriorated, but shouldn't the metal
components still be usable? Any other things I should have
checked/replaced while the mechanic is at it?
Thanks!
Tom (VIN 01710)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:34:13 GMT
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Orlando group = Who's going to SEDOC?
A couple of us from Orlando are heading up Friday. Mine will be on a trailer, another will be in an enclosed trailer, and possibly another will be driven. We will be hitting the turpike where the east-west (408) meets it at approximately 10:30am Friday which puts us into Atlanta (allowing for a leisurely lunch) roughly at 7pm at the tail end of rush hour. Email me off list if you like. Curt.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 23:31:34 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: idle speed/tuning
>>Change things all you want, but when/if it screws up, don't come
here looking for answers because we won't know what you've done and
can't diagnose it through an email.<<
Huh? If a guy changes things, if he's the designer of the mod, you'd
think he could repair anything that goes screwy with it. And if he's
passed it on to another owner, proper documentaion solves that
problem. One doesn't have to be the designer of something to repair
it you know, every person working on the car today is proof of that.
>If you keep the car stock, you'll have nearly 1400 people who might
have an answer for you.<
Uh, ok. Or maybe they'll have 1400 answers for you. Remember: Give a
man a fish and you feed him for a day....
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 17:23:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: red hot cat still hot
Saw the cat today not running took his word for it. Found out today the mechanic gave it a tune up a new cap, new rotor, new plugs and wires all bosch. But no new O2 sensor, he is going to put a new one on today. But I don't think that is the cause. Thanks for the notes cruzmd I will guide him in that direction. I hope this is not going to cost to much, do to his mistake? By the way is $400 to much for the above mention he did do some very minor fixes, however and a ground wire is broken off from the microswicth throttle quadant. That wouldn't have anything to do with my problem would it?
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 01:39:20 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air Con O-rings
Check with John Hervey at http://www.specialtauto.com/
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx>
wrote:
> Quickie
>
> Does any one sell all the O-Rings for the air con system as a set
or do I have to order them all individually??
>
> Cheers
> Paul
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 18:44:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean spare tire
The spare tyre in the DeLorean is located in the
trunk.(Here in Australia we call it the "boot").It is
a space saver which is now quite common on new cars.
In 18 months of ownership of my D I've never needed to
use the spare tyre .I have heard from other owners
that they carry a garbage bag in the trunk with the
tyre so if they get a flat the tyre won't dirty or
damage the seats since the only space for it is in the
cabin.
Another possibiity is to tie it down to the engine
cover.
The spare in the cars are known to not hold
pressure.When you get a DeLorean just check its
pressure.When I got mine it was dead flat since the
bead wasn't sealing.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:59:32 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question everyone.
Control Pressure Regulator.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Enid" <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 1:50 AM
Subject: [DML] Question everyone.
> Ok everyone new question,
>
> I spoke to the owner of the DeLorean that I have began making
downpayments to that I'm getting in November. He told me there is one
problem with the car - not a fatal one - but one that I decided to bring to
everyone here for their suggestion as to what the problem may be.
>
> Problem:
>
> Start the car first time - runs for 40 seconds or so - then it dies.
>
> Start the car a second time - runs for 1 minute or so - then it dies.
>
> Start the car a third time - and it runs from there on. No sudden death.
>
> Question: What are the possible causes of this? To me, it doesn't sound
too bad and it sounds like something that could be fixed without too much of
a hassle. If anyone has any ideas, I more than welcome any
suggestions/responses/ideas. Thanks everyone!
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:04:26 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squirrly steering
Take your car to a mechanic for a front end alignment. He will find any
mechanical issues when he tries to align it. I would suggest you keep the
driving to a minimum until then.
----- Original Message -----
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 7:59 AM
Subject: [DML] Squirrly steering
> I guess it's time for me to stop driving again.
>
> My steering is becoming erratic. The steering wheel is off-center, and
> the car acts as if I'm riding on two points, and if you turn too far
> left or right, you'll "fall off" and turn -way- more to the left or
> right than you meant to.
>
> I can't find any slop anywhere. The steering wheel has no real play
> before the wheels start to turn so I don't think it's the steering
> rack or firewall bushing.
>
> I experienced this once in my very first car. It turned out to be tie
> rod ends.
>
> That's no big deal, I have no fear of replacing them but I'd like
> someone with some experience to confirm this.
>
> As usual, Thanks guys.
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 02:11:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: valve cover vacuum leaks
The Workshop Manual does not really explain the crankcase ventilation
very well. The crankcase isn't really ventilated so much as vacuumed.
There is a small amount of manifold vacuum applied to the crankcase
from the cold start valve to the oil filler cap. Refer to D:06:02-:03.
If the engine is worn and the valve seals and rings are worn then the
engine could have so much blow-by and leakage that the manifold vacuum
cannot even keep it at atmospheric. In such a case the seals would
leak. Refer to D:06:03 System Repair Notes A and B. There is a small
fitting on the cold start valve that a hose connects to and runs to
the oil filler cap. This has a metering orifice. If it was replaced
(changed) and is bigger or smaller (or even plugged) it would affect
the way the motor runs. Am I the EXPERT checksix3 is referring to?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxx> wrote:
> >>Beg to differ. Had terrible vacuum leak where passenger valve cover
> overlapped timing chain cover (mating surfaces not quite flush).
> Steady pin point stream of solvent would kill engine. If that isn't a
> vacuum leak don't know what is.<<
>
there is data. Port a vac gage into your valve cover and measure
> it...or maybe the guy whose the expert on idle speed control can
> expalin it to us. ;)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:33:38 EDT
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLoreans on Monster Garage
Watched the show tonight. Great job guys. Nice footage of the D's also. I
agree should have D Rex parked outside as well.
Gary Gore
VIN 3360
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:36:47 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum Leaks-Smokin them out
Motor magazine July 2003 has a excellant article on finding vacuum leaks using a general purpose smoke machine. According to the article they run between $1,000 and $1,300. A little expensive for the backyard mechanic but affordable for any professional garage. If you have vacuum problems and take the car to a garage make sure they use a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:21:58 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Air Con O-rings
Paul, I sell a complete kit of GM O rings for $45.00 and Chrysler also for
$45.00. Others as requested.I can put the kit on the web site if you wish
but it may be tusday before I can.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 10:41 AM
To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx;
DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Air Con O-rings
Quickie
Does any one sell all the O-Rings for the air con system as a set or do I
have to order them all individually??
Cheers
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:55:26 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
Rustproof, See below.My 2 Cents.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: Rustproof [mailto:Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 9:36 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle
problem)
Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the archives, I
have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS idle. This
was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly reset. I set the
(CO Mixture Screw) air/fuel mixture using an exhaust gas analyzer at 14.1:1
with CO emmission at less than 1%. Idle set was 750 and varied about 50rpms
high and low.
( First I would adjust by ear and set the idle at 950. Makes sure the lower
idle speed screw on the throttle body lever is resting on the stricker plate
and then the upper screw is turned in about 30 thousands and hitting the
microswitch to activate the idle speed motor 1st..)
The frequency valve could be heard at idle at a relatively
constant and stable pitch. ( Good, it should be.)
The engine appeared to run very smoothly.
However, upon shutting it off, it would not restart! I then advanced the
mixture screw by 1/8th turn intervals clockwise until the engine was able to
start. The idle was erratic and fluctuated several hundred RPMs hunting
wildly. The frequency valve buzzed on the lean upswings and was silent on
the downswings. I then adjusted the CO screw (by ear) until the engine ran
smooth again but I could see by the analyzer that it was running on the rich
side to get it to settle down. I then set the idle again to 750. This time
the idle remained on 750 exactly with no fluctuation at all but the
frequency valve remained silent. I assume that this is due to the very rich
mixture. The engine seems to run fine set like this but I realize that I am
essentially nullifying the lambda system with the over-rich mixture.
( The Lambda ECU is electronicly set to enrich untill the 02 kicks in, That
why it's running rich.)
The engine has been checked methodically and no vacuum leaks can be found.
All
o-rings, tubing and fuel system parts including pump, accumulator and hot
start kits are new. The engine has only 8,000 miles on it.
( When you adjusted the 02 about 1/8th turn, Do you know what you did. Was
the engine hot,and did you push down on the tool or just let it rest in the
screw head and turn.)
I was hoping that someone on the list with a pefectly operationg system
might answer the following questions:
1. At idle, should the frequency valve buzz constantly and steadily?
( If everything is properly adjusted my answer would be yes.)
2. With the O2 sensor unplugged, I am able to set up everything exactly to
spec. and the engine runs smooth and perfect. As soon as I reconnect it, it
hunts wildly again and I am forced to adjust the CO mix again to get it to
settle down! Why is this happening?
( Your doing a manuel adjustment and the 02 does it electronicly.The 02 it's
going to monitor it every step of the way which is what it's supposed to
do.You just have to get to the 14.0 to 1 so there will be very little swing
by the 02 to the Lambda ECU to the FV.)
3. At 750 idle, should the CIS adjust to compensate for the A/C load or does
the idle normally drop 100 RPMs.
( The CIS,??? has nothing to do with the extra load.Not for sure what you
mean Should the CIS compensate.)
Your input will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Rustproof
Vin #1559
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 04:41:34 -0000
From: "racaliendo" <RACaliendo@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 1 Question before I begin living the dream!!!!!!
Hello Everyone,
My name is Rich Caliendo and I have been a member of the list for
several years. I don't think that I have ever posted anything before
so I thought that I should introduce myself.
I've wanted a DeLorean as long as I can remember and finally at the
age of 26 that dream is about to become a reality.
My question for the list is this: Is the optional wide strip on the
sides of the car removable? The vehicle I'm looking at has it and
I 'm not sure how I feel about it. It's not that I dislike it, but I
do like the look of the DeLorean without it.
I'm 99% sure I'm going to buy the car either way but I just want to
know If I have the option to remove it.
I can be contacted directly @ RACaliendo@xxxxxxx
Thanks everyone.
Rich Caliendo
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 01:55:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?
The best way to approach this would be to drain the tank, remove all
the parts and examine each for deterioration, broken, missing, etc.
This is not a place to "cheap out". Wipe out the tank of any dirt and
replace any parts that don't look good (the return hose and baffles).
If the pick-up hose (the curvy one) is soft it SHOULD be replaced as
well as the boot and cover. Many times even if the boots look OK they
shrink so you can never properly reassemble them. If the engine runs
then the fuel pump is usually alright. If the short wiring harness to
the pump is all corroded it can be replaced. You must be very careful
when reinstalling the fuel pump. If you turn it as you install it you
could kink the pick-up hose.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gullwings2000" <gullwings2000@xxxx>
wrote:
> After noticing a major gas leak after fill-up the other day I had the
> car towed to a service station. Upon inspection it turns out the fuel
> pump ring (the big rubber boot/seal) was seriously deteriorated as
> well as the feed/return hoses. (Not surprsied - the car has sat
> unused for long periods and I've suspected fuel system problems.)
>
> The mechanic said if I got the parts he'd do the work, so now I'm
> just debating over which parts to replace. I'd rather not do more
> than necessary but I also don't want to be penny-wise/pound-foolish.
>
> For all I know the fuel pump is fully functional but I'm leaning
> towards replacing it anyway. I'm wondering how far down the "chain"
> to go though, ie. the fuel tubes, elbow, tee, etc. I can understand
> the rubber components being deteriorated, but shouldn't the metal
> components still be usable? Any other things I should have
> checked/replaced while the mechanic is at it?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom (VIN 01710)
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 11:56:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?
We have an affectionate term over here which is "fuel-tank diving". You
need to do this to check the condition of:
Pump boot cover
pump boot (already done)
supply and return hoses
pickup hose (rarely bad but often too soft with a tank of hot fuel)
picjup flter
general condition of tank and baffle. Also check for baffle base and
metal clamps holding baffle down. Given your Vin, you may be missing
them. Mine was.
If the pump ain't broke, don't fix it. What lkills them is leaving them
for ages without use. if it works, it's fine
Fonr anyone else, this is the absolute FIRST thing to do when tackling a
car that's been stored.
Martin
#1458
#4426
gullwings2000 wrote:
>After noticing a major gas leak after fill-up the other day I had the
>car towed to a service station. Upon inspection it turns out the fuel
>pump ring (the big rubber boot/seal) was seriously deteriorated as
>well as the feed/return hoses. (Not surprsied - the car has sat
>unused for long periods and I've suspected fuel system problems.)
>
>The mechanic said if I got the parts he'd do the work, so now I'm
>just debating over which parts to replace. I'd rather not do more
>than necessary but I also don't want to be penny-wise/pound-foolish.
>
>For all I know the fuel pump is fully functional but I'm leaning
>towards replacing it anyway. I'm wondering how far down the "chain"
>to go though, ie. the fuel tubes, elbow, tee, etc. I can understand
>the rubber components being deteriorated, but shouldn't the metal
>components still be usable? Any other things I should have
>checked/replaced while the mechanic is at it?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom (VIN 01710)
>
>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 11:01:59 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: CPR Vacuum delay valve
I just got a vacuum delay valve (part#102410) for the control
pressure regulator and I cant tell which direction it goes in. One
side of it says "carb" and the other says "dist". The one side is tan
in color and the other side black.
Also this part has a Ford symbol stamped on it. Were these parts
originally made by Ford?
thanks,
Adam
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 13:10:15 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Advice
Ok so tomorrow I start my next job on the D, replacing the Evaporator core in the heater/AC box, has anyone been in there before and done this?
I would like some hints and tips, The workshop manual makes it sound like a right ferret of a job. Is it one of those you just have to take by the horns and get stuck in??
Cheers
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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