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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Heater Core Shut Off Valve Xref
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: DeLoreans on Monster Garage
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: HOWTO #9 injector replacment
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: idle problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Tom Wilson ("Biff" from BTTF) in Atlanta this weekend
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen@xxxxxxxx>
6. Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Frame Restoration
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Frame Restoration
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. DCS DeLorean Raffle Support!
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 06:31:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heater Core Shut Off Valve Xref
Just bought a 5/8" heater core shut off valve for one of my Lincolns.
100% match to stock DeLo. Little more expensive than the single piece
tower, but I figured car was worth it:
Factory Air #74671
$26 at AutozoneAdvance also sells Factory Air
Re: Lambda ECU thread -- have finally removed mine from car (no
frequency valve). As far as I know is still good. Am trying to trade
with a vendor for spare Bosch plug wire (or two). If that transaction
doesn't materialize will make same deal to anyone on list...
O2 sensor already given away.
BTW: anyone know how much juice Lamda and idle speed ECU's suck up? Am
hoping removal reduces alternator load. Have been told onboard
electronics are reason for today's big alternators, but I still
suspect coil packs have something to do with it.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 07:26:44 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DeLoreans on Monster Garage
I just so happened to see this episode and I was on the floor when I saw
all of the Delorean owners on it! I had no idea it was going to contain
all of that!
Anyway... Thanks to the miracle of Tivo, I have the show recorded, and
plan to extract the parts of the show about the DMC club doing their
rock climber. ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 12:20 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] DeLoreans on Monster Garage
Now it can be told - initial airing of the "Monster Garage" episode
with our group of DMC-nuts building a rock crawler/monster truck
aired tonight. Repeat on Friday and Sunday, look for the "American
Monsters" episode in local listings. More background pix at
www.dmcnews.com, link in the center of the page.
The names you may recognize from the DML are Rich Weissensel, Bryan
Pearce, Marty Maier, Eric Weber, and me.
It's severely edited from the 4 days that we worked on it, but
actually came out pretty well. We were not sure what to expect, and
were pleasantly surprise by how much of the DeLorean background
material stayed in.
A huge thanks to Rich for talking the MG people into this thing, and
making all the sponsor arrangements etc. He was really key to
the effort.
Dave S
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 08:56:40 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: HOWTO #9 injector replacment
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Here comes #9 the fuel injector replacment howto.
>
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/fuelinjector.html
>
> comments, feedback, does anyone read this stuff?
Yes, I read this stuff often. These How-To's are very well done.
Thanks for all the time and effort to put these together for all of us
to benefit from. Keep up the great work!
Richard
vin 5853
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 06:13:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idle problem
Vacuum leaks usually tend towards low end of wandering idle (engine
starts to die). May rev to other side after it catches itself, but
never any further than throttle plate setting (usually set too high
due to leak).
Stock DeLo of course doesn't idle off throttle plates. Idle speed
motor can open up to 3/4" air passage -- equivalent to 20% or more of
plate action (anybody know actual diameter?). Your automatic idle
system may be twitchy.
THIS is why I recommend all owners should be familiar with manual idle
circuit built into upper air assembly. Even if not used as primary
system, does allow automatic circuit to be disabled for diagnosis.
Contact me off list (brobertson(at)carolina.net) and I'll send you a
Volvo procedure.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jonas P" <Delorean3543@xxxx> wrote:
> This problem usually only happens on cold starts. After starting my
> 81 D the engine races up and down. At an idle in park it sounds like
> someone
> is pushing up and down on the gas peddel. When you put it in drive it
> still happens but not as bad. Sometimes I can rev the motor to around
> 4000 RPM's a few times and it quits. After the motor warms up a bit
> it stops. I know for sure I have a vacaum leak, John Harvey is
> putting
> together a silicone hose set to replace my old ones. Would a vacaum
> leak cause this type of problem? If not, Anyone know what would cause
> this?
> Thanks
> Jonas 3543
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:07:32 -0000
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tom Wilson ("Biff" from BTTF) in Atlanta this weekend
Just a reminder to those of you in the Atlanta area, actor/comedian
Tom Wilson -- "Biff" from the 'Back to the Future' movies -- will be
a special guest this weekend at the annual Dragon*Con sci-fi show.
Tom will be greeting fans & signing autographs Friday thru Sunday
(August 29-31) in the "Walk of Fame" area of the show. Full details
may be found at www.DragonCon.com and www.TomWilsonUSA.com
Stephen Clark
BTTF.com
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 08:58:53 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
I traced my non-start problem back to the coil. I pulled the coil wire and
looked for a spark to jump the gap. Nothing. I tried a new one just to be
sure but it was fruitless. Then I checked all the fuses. Everything's ok.
When I go to start the car I am assuming I should have 12V across the coil,
which I do not at the moment. I checked voltage on the right side. The
voltage from the resistor is ok and I have continuity and ground to the
capacitor. The trouble seems to be on the left side. I've got nothing coming
from the White/Slate wire that leads to the ignition control behind the
driver's seat.
What are the conditions required to get power to that side of the coil?
Maybe I'm misunderstanding something altogether. Can anyone shed some light
on this puzzler?
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 14:40:24 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frame Restoration
Hello All:
Next summer I want to fix up my frame, re-epoxy it, etc. Has anyone
attempted this? What is a good plan of action when undertaking this
task?
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 15:14:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> I traced my non-start problem back to the coil. I pulled the coil
wire and
> looked for a spark to jump the gap. Nothing.
<SNIP>
Be careful! The potential for shock is dangerous as all hell! You can
easily get killed, or maimed! If not by the shock itself, it can be
anything dangerous that you'll hit when you jump back!
If you need to check for spark, pull a sparkplug wire off, and
connect it to a another sparkplug, and lay it on the intake manifold.
That'll create a ground, and you can SAFELY view the spark jumping
the gap. Otherwise, I found a tool @ Pep Boys that allows you to view
spark on the coil wire by touching the sheilding with it. It looks
like an ink pen, and contains a small tube with neon gas that
illuminates when voltage goes thru the wire.
> When I go to start the car I am assuming I should have 12V across
the coil,
> which I do not at the moment. I checked voltage on the right side.
The
> voltage from the resistor is ok and I have continuity and ground to
the
> capacitor. The trouble seems to be on the left side. I've got
nothing coming
> from the White/Slate wire that leads to the ignition control behind
the
> driver's seat.
<SNIP>
The White/Slate colored wire delivers impulses from the Distributor.
The Distributor rotates, and creates the pulses. These pulses are
then used to trip the RPM relay, drive the Tach, and supply engine
speed info to the Ignition ECU, and the Ignition coil. If the motor
is stopped, you won't recieve any voltage/signal on this line.
Which reminds me. When you tested for voltage output from the
Ignition Coil, were you cranking the motor, did you have the RPM
relay jumped, or was the motor off?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 11:27:12 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
I've tried several versions of that. 1) Pulled a spark plug and rested it
against the block and looked for a spark. 2) Unplugged the coil wire and
rested the copper tip on top of the coil and looked for a spark. 3) Ran a
jumper wire from the coil to just above the block and looked for a spark.
All 3 netted the same results.
By the by. Much like your neon tube test, you could hook a timing light up
to the coil wire as well. This I did not try. 3 out of 4 failed tests were
enough for me.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 11:14 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> > I traced my non-start problem back to the coil. I pulled the coil
> wire and
> > looked for a spark to jump the gap. Nothing.
> <SNIP>
>
> Be careful! The potential for shock is dangerous as all hell! You can
> easily get killed, or maimed! If not by the shock itself, it can be
> anything dangerous that you'll hit when you jump back!
>
> If you need to check for spark, pull a sparkplug wire off, and
> connect it to a another sparkplug, and lay it on the intake manifold.
> That'll create a ground, and you can SAFELY view the spark jumping
> the gap. Otherwise, I found a tool @ Pep Boys that allows you to view
> spark on the coil wire by touching the sheilding with it. It looks
> like an ink pen, and contains a small tube with neon gas that
> illuminates when voltage goes thru the wire.
>
>
> > When I go to start the car I am assuming I should have 12V across
> the coil,
> > which I do not at the moment. I checked voltage on the right side.
> The
> > voltage from the resistor is ok and I have continuity and ground to
> the
> > capacitor. The trouble seems to be on the left side. I've got
> nothing coming
> > from the White/Slate wire that leads to the ignition control behind
> the
> > driver's seat.
> <SNIP>
>
> The White/Slate colored wire delivers impulses from the Distributor.
> The Distributor rotates, and creates the pulses. These pulses are
> then used to trip the RPM relay, drive the Tach, and supply engine
> speed info to the Ignition ECU, and the Ignition coil. If the motor
> is stopped, you won't recieve any voltage/signal on this line.
>
> Which reminds me. When you tested for voltage output from the
> Ignition Coil, were you cranking the motor, did you have the RPM
> relay jumped, or was the motor off?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:23:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Frame Restoration
Have you looked into the stainless frame if your going
to strip your car down.
Jordan 11613
--- anaheim_21 <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hello All:
>
> Next summer I want to fix up my frame, re-epoxy it,
> etc. Has anyone
> attempted this? What is a good plan of action when
> undertaking this
> task?
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:30:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical gremlins... no power to coil
At this point I would check to see if the pick-up coil has continuity.
An open pick-up coil would cause this and it is more likely than a bad
ECU.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> > I traced my non-start problem back to the coil. I pulled the coil
> wire and
> > looked for a spark to jump the gap. Nothing.
> <SNIP>
>
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:41:42 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DCS DeLorean Raffle Support!
Hey Group!
Finally got all of the heater/AC parts and the radiator off of Ken's
parts car. I took them to a radiator shop yesterday to be tested and
got our results just now.
The radiator blew during the testing, so it will now make a lovely wall
decoration...but if anyone is interested in the heater/AC parts, they
all passed testing with flying colors. These include the compressor,
condenser, heater core, evaporator and accumulator.
If interested you can contact me, off list, at:
jhaldeman(at)fuse.net
You'll be supporting the DeLorean Car Show raffle car project with any
purchase, so don't hesitate to ask about any part! We are also now
accepting Paypal for the DCS Magazine. If you'd like to subscribe, send
your payment along with your shipping address to the e-mail address
listed above.
Thanks for your time and attention,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
Ken's VIN 5609 (parts car)
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