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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Photos of #5335
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Muffler
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. New owner from Georgia
From: "freakybeetle" <freakybeetle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: brake caliper springs
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Drivers Side (LH) torsion bars
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. green cable question
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Rear View Mirror
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
8. Door lights & Interior lights not working
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
9. Missing updates -- now what?
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Spark Plug wires resistance.
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
13. CPR and Right Angle Drive needed
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Delorean Show on History Channel Tuesday 8/26
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 08:47:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Photos of #5335
Is it my imagination or are there alot of DeLoreans in
the 5000 vin slot that are project D's. Just sort of
noticed that.
Todd
Vin 5386
--- cruznmd <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> ...are posted in the photos section in the #5335
> folder for anyone
> who cares. My digital cam isn't that great though.
>
> I finally took the time to hit it with a blending
> pad today. It took
> 6 hours. I had no idea the results would be so
> dramatic. All the
> swirl marks and most of the stains are gone
> entirely!
>
Moderator snip...
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:56:46 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Muffler
The box is one of the few parts on the DeLorean to actually say "DMC 12"
so one would assume there isn't a X-ref for it
Martin
vanisland03 wrote:
>Hi all;
> Does anyone have a cross referance for the muffler on our cars. I
>would dearly like to buy from the vendors but in Canada the exchange
>rate, shipping and brokerage fees are a little much. It would end up
>costing close to $900. I have purchased Delorean specific parts from
>the vendors in the past and will continue to do so. But a 900 dollar
>muffler there must be something else.
>Thanks for your time.
> Vic
> Vin#1794
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 17:49:10 -0000
From: "freakybeetle" <freakybeetle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New owner from Georgia
Hello,
I purchased my DMC back in April. The car only has 16k on it, but in
the past ten years it has only been driven about 2k. Needless to say
it has needed a lot of maintenance to get it up to spec. I have
installed the PJ Grady tune up kit along with fuel pump and other
odds and ends. Though it runs great, the car still needs a lot more
maintenance. Getting the car to start is almost impossible. The
only way I can get it to fire off is by using starting fluid (I don't
like the idea of this at all). Once you get it started on the fluid
the car runs fine. You can drive it around all you want with no
trouble as long as you don't turn it off. Being a new owner I have
my own ideas about what is wrong, but I wanted to get a more
experienced option about what I should look into. My first thought
was the cold start valve. This would seem to explain why it is so
hard to start the first time. Second thought was the fuel
accumulator. This would explain why the car won't start after
driving around. My final thought was the control pressure regulator,
but I don't know much about what this actually does. I have already
registered for the SEDOC cruise-in, but I would hate to be the guy
trying to start his car with starter fluid as I get ready to leave,
or worst yet the DMC owner that drives a VW to the DMC cruise-in.
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jai Johnston
2812
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:58:39 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake caliper springs
The retaining springs come in the commonly available "pad kit" available
this side of the pond. The pads fit other calipers, but on the DeLorean,
the spring is not required
Martin
John Hervey wrote:
>I don't know if I got back to you. But at this time I only have ready to
>sell what's on the site. If I get the individual part I will post it.
>Thanks
>John hervey
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: johndmc57209 [mailto:jrc2905@xxxxxxx]
>Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 10:58 AM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] brake caliper springs
>
>
>I noticed on one of the vendors pages that a rebuilt caliper comes
>with retaining springs on the pads, I sent an email to the vender but
>am asking here if those springs are available for purchase.
>
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 14:10:24 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Drivers Side (LH) torsion bars
The first of the new, reproduction torsion bars is being made at this time.
The new price of the LH torsion bar will be $495.00 - initial supplies will
be VERY limited. If you need one, contact me via private email immediately
at "james (at) usadmc.com" to ensure that you get one at this price.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 13:20:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: green cable question
hello all:
could someone look at the following picture abd see if
they recognise where this 2 wire green cable goes to.
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/pics/greencable.jpg
thanx
jordan 11613
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:56:09 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror
If you carefully bend the mirror down, you can pop it off of the
mounting ball. Then pop the new mirror off of its mount, and pop it
on the old one. That way you dont need to mess with glueing or
sticking the new mount to the windshield. Nothing ever seems to
hold up as well as the factory does it.
Why do I know this? Anyone remember that "electrochromatic" (auto-
dimming) mirror that Walt kept talking about a while back? Well I
too wanted to put one in my D. So I went to a junkyard, and got one
off of a GM car for $10, (as apposed to the $150+ cost for a new
generic unit). I then needed to figure out how to mount it, so per
the advise of a friend, I was able to disassemble the new mirror,
and remove all mounting accessories from the mirror. I then
reassembled it, and had a mount-less mirror. Next I popped off my
stock mirror, did a hack job on it (I know, I know), and epoxied the
ball-receptacle onto the back of the new mirror. I then simply
popped it back on my stock mount, and I was done! Since my
headliners still arn't back on the car, I temporarily wired the
mirror into the dome light wires untill I get a more permenent
installation. It works nice, but it could dim a little darker for
my tastes.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960 <--Now with auto-dimming mirror, soon to have compass/ext
temp display, and dual express up/down power windows.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> My old mirror is still attached to the windshield
>
> i would like to know the best
> way to get the old mirror off my windshield so i can replace the
broken mirror?
>
> Mark
> 6683
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:44:01 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Door lights & Interior lights not working
Ok here's the scenerio....
My lights on my doors an my interior dome lights were working
perfectly. I unplugged the two doors to save my battery because I
was getting my windows tinted. After the windows were complete (I
watched them through the entoire process and nothing unusual was
done) I hooked the two doors back up by plugging in the on connector
on each side and presto..nothing. Now the doors do not work and the
two dome lights do not work in any position. I checked fuses and
everything is ok. Also connected the two wires that go to the door
lght switch with a jumper and nothing...no power to them. The door
buzzer works (which is on the upper switch) and the light on the dash
showing the door is open still works correctly (which I beleive is
the bottom switch that operated the lights as well). Curiously
though, when I close the doors and turn the dome light to on, the
light on the dash comes on showing the door is open and the light
glows very very faintly.
Everything was fine before the tinting of the windows....any ideas on
where to start troubleshooting? Possibly a ground wire? I'm baffled
at this point....
Michael
Vin# 2944
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:26:55 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Missing updates -- now what?
I spent a bit of time on my car this weekend, and crossed off a half dozen
things from my list (Yipee!) but discovered my car doesn't have some of the
recommended updates including: throttle cable shield (already knew that
one), front-end suspension, and ball-joint nut. At least the fan-fail
update was done!
So, I am stuck with some questions, like is my car safe without these
updates (or should I stop driving it to work?), who sells the parts to do
the updates, and should I try to get my "normal" mechanic to do this, or
should I really seek out PJ Grady? Everyone says Grady is great, but
apparently it can take a long time to get your car back -- definitely not my
favorite idea given how much I enjoy this car!
As always, thanks in advance for your suggestions.
--Scott
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 02:15:10 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spark Plug wires resistance.
Group, I checked the resistance on 3 sets of spark plug wires this
weekend and found a big difference. The resistance was measured with
a B&K Multimeter in the $100.00 varity and was from end connector to
end connector.
Set#1. AutoZone, Omnispark. 7mm. All wires were around 5 to 6 thousand
ohms, which is fine for normal driving and RFI suppression.
( Radio interference.)But a little high.
Set#2. Bosch, 7 mm. All wires were under 1000 ohms. Still offers RFI
protection but better to deliver more voltage to the plugs
for a hotter spark.
Set#3. Taylor 8MM Pro Wires,Wires I'm working on and all are
consistance at around 500 ohms of resistance or less.
Less resistance without going to solid wire is best for
street use. Won't cause as much interference.
Moral of the story is, If your experiencing maybe a cylinder that the
plugs don't look like they are burning good or there is a idle mis
but seems to disappear after you get going, it may be the wires. A
bad internal connection when crimped will increase the resistance. I
have seen as high as 25,000 ohms on a wire and will almost kill the
spark at idle on a plug. Take your wires off and clean them or
replace them and check them for resiatance. Also, Carbon tracks will
build up in the distributor cap, rotor and wires and conduct
electricity and cause a firing short or a plug that the spark is weak.
Call or email me if you need or want more information.
Just a FYI
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 03:49:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
Have stated before that Bosch wires are really quite nice. Are spiral
core, which is what MSD and Pertronix recommend for their high voltage
applications (vs solid core). Not too keen on Bosch plugs or coils,
but their wires are nice.
Racing folks have wires that are 100-200 ohms each, but cost $150 a
set (aren't umbrella boot either). Also don't know how much RFI
supression they offer.
In the bad old old old days wires were copper core. No resistance, but
they chewed up radio reception. Could also arc something fierce when
jacket got old and cracked.
Have been several ignition threads of late. IMHO this is bigger
problem than fuel system will ever be AFTER THE TANK (DeLo Achilles heel).
Don't forget to check resistance of spark plugs too. Some
"wonderplugs" are 25,000 to 50,000 ohm!
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Group, I checked the resistance on 3 sets of spark plug wires this
> weekend and found a big difference. The resistance was measured with
> a B&K Multimeter in the $100.00 varity and was from end connector to
> end connector.
>
> Set#1. AutoZone, Omnispark. 7mm. All wires were around 5 to 6 thousand
> ohms, which is fine for normal driving and RFI suppression.
> ( Radio interference.)But a little high.
>
> Set#2. Bosch, 7 mm. All wires were under 1000 ohms. Still offers RFI
> protection but better to deliver more voltage to the plugs
> for a hotter spark.
>
> Set#3. Taylor 8MM Pro Wires,Wires I'm working on and all are
> consistance at around 500 ohms of resistance or less.
> Less resistance without going to solid wire is best for
> street use. Won't cause as much interference.
>
> Moral of the story is, If your experiencing maybe a cylinder that the
> plugs don't look like they are burning good or there is a idle mis
> but seems to disappear after you get going, it may be the wires. A
> bad internal connection when crimped will increase the resistance. I
> have seen as high as 25,000 ohms on a wire and will almost kill the
> spark at idle on a plug. Take your wires off and clean them or
> replace them and check them for resiatance. Also, Carbon tracks will
> build up in the distributor cap, rotor and wires and conduct
> electricity and cause a firing short or a plug that the spark is weak.
> Call or email me if you need or want more information.
> Just a FYI
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 01:16:18 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
I don't know exactly which length and such would fit with the DMC, but MSD
makes one hell of a wire. I have their Super Conductor wires on my Silverado,
and they make a big difference, even with the coil-per-cylinder ignition system.
MSD rates their wires at 40-50 ohms per foot, which seems to be quite a bit
less than other manufacturers. Out of Summit Racing, mine were $60.
John
4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 12:15:38 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: CPR and Right Angle Drive needed
Does anyone have a perfect condition CPR and/or a right angle drive
for sale? If so, please let me know. We could do a cash deal or
trade for parts.
Thanks,
Erik
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 08:25:40 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Show on History Channel Tuesday 8/26
Delorean Alert from my Tivo:
Histry Channel's "Great Blunders in History:The Delorean Car" will be
shown on Tuesday 8/26 at 11:30am and 5:30pm
It is a half hour show.
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 15:12:51 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Spark Plug wires resistance.
40-50 Ohms per foot ? and you call that good ?
any other cheap wire will have less than 0.1 Ohm per foot.
The resistance of the cable won't make a feelable difference.
If there were wires with a defined resistance in the car, then they
are there because they were designed for that !
ever heared of EMI ? ever heared a car driving by in your radio ?
if yes - that were wrong wires or plugs !
> I don't know exactly which length and such would fit with the DMC, but MSD
>
> makes one hell of a wire. I have their Super Conductor wires on my
> Silverado,
> and they make a big difference, even with the coil-per-cylinder ignition
> system.
> MSD rates their wires at 40-50 ohms per foot, which seems to be quite a
> bit
> less than other manufacturers. Out of Summit Racing, mine were $60.
>
> John
> 4275
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