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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Newbie DeLorean questions
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: door locks again
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Answer to Newbie DeLorean questions
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
5. Re: DMC Sign from Factory
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. SEDOC CRUISE IN REMINDER
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#3622388709: Delorean Mot...
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
8. glove box assembly
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Rear View Mirror
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. SUMMERTIME TUNEUP! 11613
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
11. driver door locks again
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: St. Louis?
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Rear View Mirror
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: driver door locks again
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 10:18:02 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Newbie DeLorean questions
> I haven't been able to find a listing of them; can sommeone provide pointers?
For the very new D owners on the list, here's a site I put together when I got my first (and still only) Delorean. It helps answer lots of the "newbie" questions with photos of the recalls and updates.
http://www.eskin.net/firstdelorean.html
I also have some other small Delorean projects I've documented:
Replacing the mirror control switch with one from a Saab: http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html
A small digital voltmeter: http://www.eskin.net/voltmeter.html (I've since installed the meter where the clock used to be, and made the dimmer knob a switch to turn it on and off. )
All the Craig/ASI radio harness info gathered in one place: http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html
And I used to own a 1985 Mitsubishi Starion, and I find the similarities between that car and the Delorean quite remarkable. The comparisons can be found here: http://www.eskin.net/starion.html (I have since learned that it's quite possible that the "Gull Wing Starion" only existed as a model, and not a real car).
-Hank
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 14:52:15 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
Hi folks,
Over the last while I have sent in a few messages regarding
observations and general issues I'm having with my front lower
control arm bushings. My earlier observations included that the way
the bushing gets squeezed between the frame members, the entire
suspension travel gets taken up in twisting the rubber portion of
the bushing. I also had some concerns over whether the setup would
prevent the bushing from shifting in the lower control arm since
there is nothing actually holding it in place other than the
friction of the press-fit.
I had a chance to revisit my bushings the other day to check if they
were still where I left them, and it was clear that they had indeed
shifted, resulting in the geometry changing. The problem appears to
be that the bushings are not captured in the control arms, and
therefore its retention in the control arm is based solely on the
friction fit between the bushing and the control arm. My checkup
indicated that the bushing was in place trapped between the frame
mounts, but the control arm had shifted slightly over the bushing.
In looking at the geometry, the setup looks extraordinarily hokey.
When you stomp on the brake and thereby put lateral force on the
suspension, the only thing keeping the control arm from shifting
where it connects to the chassis is the friction between the bushing
and the control arm and the supplemental support from the sway bar.
I suspect that on most DeLoreans with original control arms, that
the bushing has probably nicely attached itself to the control arm
as a result of corrosion, but my nice new stainless control arms
seem to have surfaces that are nice and smooth for the bushing to
slide against.
I have been struggling with the right fix for this for some time and
considered whether I could trap the bushing in the control arm with
snap rings (by milling a groove on each end), but the bushing is
unfortunately the length of the sleeve, yielding no space to mill a
snap-ring groove.
And then I noticed at the last DMC Houston open house that one of
the stainless control arms was on display in the showroom, and in
that control arm was half of a two-piece bushing. A two piece
bushing that has a flare at the outer end for each half could
effectively trap the inner end of the control arm between the
bushing halves.
So now to my question: Does anyone have a suggestion or lead on a
suitable direction I might explore for trapping the inner control
arm and does anyone have a lead on the two-piece bushings that I
might try with my control arms?
Knut
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 10:10:15 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: door locks again
John, How was the lock module updated.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 6:43 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] door locks again
Driver door lock will not open. Surprise! I have tried everything
solenoids are good, (had them tested), and I'm at my wits end. Almost all
parts i.e rods, latch mechanism, and locks, even the electric switch is new
and all are from dmc Houston. I don't know what I would do without those
guys. I even had my lock module updated. My problem is the if I make an
adjustment to the door, It will either remain locked from the outside always
but always open from the inside (regardless of the switch position).
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:25:13 GMT
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Answer to Newbie DeLorean questions
The DeLorean in my opinion is a great car, although very misunderstood. It was designed as an "executive" grand touring sport car that would be relatively easy to maintain and long lasting and comfortable. Many sport type cars of the day were fast but expensive to maintain, not very roomy, etc. It was not designed for acceleration. The PRV v6 is a highly reliable every day and fun engine. Acceleration is in the 10 second range for 0 to 60 but feels much quicker. It is fun to drive in the way a 1980s z280 might be fun. It feels faster than it is so you won't win any races, but you'll have a blast driving it. With a bi-turbo from Legend acceleration greatly improves to about 6 seconds. The twin turbo layout is best as it has less turbo lag than the single turbo. Again, the PRV (Peaugeut Renault Volvo) engine is very reliable, just be sure you are buying a well maintained/stored car. This is more important than mileage. Many low mileage cars are in bad shape do to improper storage. Of course, many high mileage cars are beat up too. You just have to be careful like you would be with any used car. Most of the problems associated with the DeLorean in the early years are now well understood. You simply replace those known problem things like the Lucas fuses, the plastic cooling resevoir holder that can crack, etc. No big deal it's just that you have to be aware of them. PJ Grady sells a line of "Zilla" products that plug in and solve virtually all the typical electrical probelms. Put a battery kill switch on the battery (accessible from inside the cabin) and if you shut the battery off while parked you'll eliminate the notorious dead DeLorean syndrome. (Sometimes the dome light stays on if the doors aren't fully engaged. A problem with all gull wings.) Be sure the frame is not rusted and structurally the car should be sound. The stainless exterior and fiberglass shouldn't give you any trouble of course. The steering is very tight as its rack and pinion. With the engine in the back and rear wheel drive, however, all the front tires do is steer so its not that tough and it gives you tight control. As you begin to move it obviously becomes easy to steer. The gas lifts loose gas over time and need occassional replacement - not a big deal. Clearly the door struts will wear faster. Replacement parts on some basic items are easy - for instance shock absorbers and the like are replaceable with other manufucturers products. More specialized items obviously you need to order, but there are tons and tons of those available and they ship world wide. The car is easy to work on in my opinion. I am not a mechanic but have replaced shocks, gas tank items, etc. and it isn't a big deal. This car does not have the performance of a Ferrari or a Porche 930 but it wasn't designed to do that. It is also much more unique than those automobiles. DeLorean and his team were engineering geniuses. It is a real victory that so many of them are still on the road 20 + years later, some with 300,000 plus miles - it just goes and goes and goes. His dream is now only beginning to be fully understood and appreciated. I bought mine primarily as a collector and expected all the usual DeLorean problems - surprisingly I have had only small little things here and there to do and now have no problems at all. Now I find I confidently drive it everywhere. I just love it. Good luck!
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 10:27:19 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Sign from Factory
Rob Lamrock might know where it is...but it's certainly not here! I was just
at DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove this past Monday, and he has one of
the DMC Quality Assurance Center signs hanging in his shop. Other than that
one, I've never seen anything other than dealer signs that have survived.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
>
> Speaking of signs,Whatever happened to the Orignal DMC Sign that was
> hanging,on(over) the Front Door(s) at the DMC Factory---Last I saw,it
> was shown on a video taken down(haphazardly)and sitting by the front
> door(s) looking real sad and forlone,Did it get trashed,or is it a
> hidden treasure,still unrecovered at the old DMC factory,or in a
> unopened crate at DMC of Texas. That WOULD be one hella prized
> treasure.
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:55:43 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
Subject: SEDOC CRUISE IN REMINDER
HEY! Y'ALL
WE ARE RAPIDLY APPROACHING THE CLOSE OUT FOR PRE REGISTRATION RAFFLE:
FULL DETAILS CAN BE FOUND ON WWW.SPECIALTAUTO.COM/sedoc
FEATURES DeLOREAN "CRUISE-IN" 2003
"What's New and Updates"
Technical Presentations:
Steve Wynne, DMC Houston
Bob Zilla Electronics
John Hervey, Special T Auto
Ken Koncelik, DeLorean Car Show
Parts & Product Fair & Expo:
Custom DeLorean Parts
Standard Parts
Accessories
DeLorean Memorabilia
DMC Houston Performance Engine
Zilla DeLorean Electronic Products
RE: JOHN JORDAN
PRESIDENT, SEDOC
404 562 6075
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 14:20:51 EDT
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#3622388709: Delorean Mot...
In a message dated 22/08/03 04:09:27 GMT Daylight Time, CBL302@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Speaking of signs,Whatever happened to the Orignal DMC Sign that was
> hanging,on(over) the Front Door(s) at the DMC Factory---Last I saw,it
> was shown on a video taken down(haphazardly)and sitting by the front
> door(s) looking real sad and forlone,Did it get trashed,or is it a
> hidden treasure,still unrecovered at the old DMC factory,or in a
> unopened crate at DMC of Texas. That WOULD be one hella prized
> treasure.
>
> While I'm at it,someone posted,a while back,that the test track,was
> going to be demolished/removed,did that ever happen,is it still there
> in one piece(if you want to call it that).If it was removed what is
> there now.
Claude,
Not sure where the original factory sign ended up - it certainly isn't still
at the factory. However I do have one of the reception signs hanging in my
garage. It's a giant duratran which is backlite with several fluorescent tubes
and describes the car spec in three different languages. <A HREF="" href="http://www.wellmet.or.jp/~osamudmc/belfast.html">http://www.wellmet.or.jp/~osamudmc/belfast.html">
http://www.wellmet.or.jp/~osamudmc/belfast.html</A>
Regarding the test track - it is still there (for now), although property
developers are looking at adjacent land. Will keep members informed of any
news.
Best wishes,
Robert Lamrock
Belfast
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 11:41:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: glove box assembly
Hello all:
I have the parts to fix the glovebox. I couldnt figure
out how to get the glove box tortion bar (part 108935)
in.
ive never had it before so i have no reference point.
a picture would help alot
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 17:53:33 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear View Mirror
My old mirror is still attached to the windshield but the night and day part of the
mirror is broke.
I have a new mirror with the attaching tape from DMCH and i would like to know the best
way to get the old mirror off my windshield so i can replace the broken mirror?
Mark
6683
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 13:58:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: SUMMERTIME TUNEUP! 11613
Hello all:
Tonite the car was driven into the garage to begin the
tuneup. A few things have been removed for tommorrows
work. Lots of howto's will be made from this. to
include the following replacments.
CAP / ROTOR
PLUGS / WIRES
INJECTORS / SEALS
SPECIALTAUTO - S/S LINE KIT
ALL NEW COPPER SEALS
AIR VENTURI REMOVAL / CLEANING (CONTAMINATED)
AIR VENTURI GASKET
NEW IDLE SPEED MOTOR HOSES
NEW CRANKCASE VENT HOSE
if someone could shoot me a picture of the glove box
tortion bar aka springy thingy, i could do that too.
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 18:44:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: driver door locks again
Any help with driver door lock settings fo latch rods that's what I suspect. All hardware is either good or brand new don't know what to do. Door wil either lock and stay locked or remain unlocked at all times THERE IS NO INBETWEEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Phip anyone
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 05:20:39 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: St. Louis?
Dear Kirk:
We live in the St. Louis area just across the river in St. Peters
(St. Charles County). There are a few DeLorean owners that we know
around here, but unfortunately, none of them are active on the DML.
We have also found a few "sad" DeLoreans in the area, but of course,
the owners don't participate with gatherings.
However, there's a very active group of DeLorean owners on the
Illinois side of the river, and they've always included us and made
us feel welcome! :)
Sorry, can't really recommend a DeLorean specific shop for necessary
repairs around here... we always do the work ourselves, get on-line
opinions here, assistance from the vendors, or good old-fashioned
help from eager mechanic friends on the list who live nearby and
gather for tech sessions and work days. DeLorean owners are great,
especially in our area!
Feel free to contact us off-line any time at GullwingMagazine(at)
juno.com. I'll send you a list of upcoming "D" events in nearby
states, and local car show events. WELCOME TO MISSOURI!
Sincerely,
Ron and Cheryl Wester
1529 '81 screamin' yellow (815 RRW)
6322 '81 millennium concours winner (BK2 FTR)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "delorean02378" <delorean02378@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I'm moving from Nashville to St. Louis and I was wondering how many
> Delorean owners are in the area. Also if you could provide a good
> place to have the Delorean worked on if needed. It's running fine
> as of today but it's always nice to have a good mechanic.
>
> Also if there are any local gatherings, please keep me informed.
>
> If anyone can be of assistance, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kirk 02378
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 12:27:15 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror
If your current mirror is attached by the original sticky pad, you
should be able to get it off by applying a firm and constant pressure
parallel to the glass - I usually push it down towards the windscreen
vents. The pads are designed as a mechanical "fuse" so if you do
accidentally knock the mirror, it falls off, rather than breaking the
glass, which can happen all too easily if someone has glued it on with
araldyte.....
BTW I discovered a source of DeLorean rear-view mirrors recently,. they
were used on a very common car in England up to about 5 years ago (so
lots of them in scrapyards). The interesting thing is that they have a
blue tint to them
Martin
id wrote:
>My old mirror is still attached to the windshield but the night and day part of the
>mirror is broke.
>
>I have a new mirror with the attaching tape from DMCH and i would like to know the best
>way to get the old mirror off my windshield so i can replace the broken mirror?
>
>Mark
>6683
>
>
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 05:17:05 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
Knut - I feel your pain. Dave Jacobs and I are tossing around some
ideas revolving around urethane bushings. I believe that the inner
sleeve would rotate withing the urethane layer, reducing quite a bit
of the torsional stress currently suffered by the rubber in the
stock bushings. I have carefully measured the stock bushings, and
Dave is preparing to transmit our needs to a list of urethane
suppliers to see if we can generate some interest. In terms of
retaining the stock bushings, based on the geometrical constraints
of the components, the only way that comes to mind is to use Loktite
bearing adhesive during the installation of the bushings. It works
pretty well in these types of applications. The optimum
configuration would be urethane, with a grease zerk into the
interface between the inner sleeve and the urethane media. I will
give your situation some additional thought - it will require laying
under Winged1 for awhile, staring at the joint (that's my personal
style of meditation). Thank you for your insightful post.
Toby Peterson vIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>
wrote:
> Over the last while I have sent in a few messages regarding
> observations and general issues I'm having with my front lower
> control arm bushings... The problem appears to
> be that the bushings are not captured in the control arms, and
> therefore its retention in the control arm is based solely on the
> friction fit between the bushing and the control arm. My checkup
> indicated that the bushing was in place trapped between the frame
> mounts, but the control arm had shifted slightly over the bushing.
>
> So now to my question: Does anyone have a suggestion or lead on a
> suitable direction I might explore for trapping the inner control
> arm and does anyone have a lead on the two-piece bushings that I
> might try with my control arms?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 12:03:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: driver door locks again
Do you have the Service Bulletin ST-10-8/81? This bulletin has to be
read very carefully because it is not at all clear. However, by
implication it is important to know the door latch settings are
correct before setting the door locks. The bulletin also has some
important points about establishing the proper clearances and when
to check for inappropriate preload on the linkages.
I do not like working with the door locks armed. I would recommend
disconnecting the power to the lock control, disconnecting the
harness for the lock/unlock contacts and using a test light to show
you when the door contact is operating.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Any help with driver door lock settings fo latch rods that's what
I suspect. All hardware is either good or brand new don't know what
to do. Door wil either lock and stay locked or remain unlocked at
all times THERE IS NO INBETWEEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Phip anyone
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 11:34:05 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing movement
What about a set-screw or two? A two piece bushing would not
necessarily stop the rotation. The smooth surface is actually better
for getting contact surface; it is the size of the bushing that is
apparently the problem.
You might be able to manipulate some shim stock to stay in the
control arm sleeve and reinstall the bushing. Or, remove the
bushing; grind a small grove the length of the bushing. Have a small
weld bead built up on the inside of the control arm sleeve. When you
reinstall the bushing do it by aligning the bead and the bushing
grove.
Some random thoughts.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> Over the last while I have sent in a few messages regarding
> observations and general issues I'm having with my front lower
> control arm bushings. My earlier observations included that the
way
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