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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Clutch line replacement and cause of backfire?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Fuse Box Cleaning and Fuse replacement, CHECK YOURS!!
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: cold or hot starting?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: AC condensation drain and coolant leak
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: My car is still for sale
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Flat running
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: Vacuum line question
From: "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Vacuum line question
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: Vacuum line question
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Vacuum line question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Flat running
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Flat running
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: cold or hot starting?
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
14. Another HOWTO complete Auto trans filter and pan gasket
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Anyone from the North East going to SEDOC?
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Delorean For Sale
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Anyone from the North East going to SEDOC?
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: cold or hot starting?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 03:52:19 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch line replacement and cause of backfire?
I saw the picture in the link that you posted, and was wondering if perhaps
you knew where the rubber cap on the floorjack came from? It would really be
a great addition to have for my equipment.
Thanks in advnace!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 00:08:58 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuse Box Cleaning and Fuse replacement, CHECK YOURS!!
Tom, You need to put a fuse extender on # 7, It's the usually #1 on the list
of first to go. Cleaning and replacing the fuses is the only way to protect
the box and don't use the cover.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto..com
-----Original Message-----
From: hodakaguy [mailto:hodakaguy@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 7:28 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Fuse Box Cleaning and Fuse replacement, CHECK YOURS!!
I fellow DeLorean owner recomended that I check my fuses and fuse box
since I just bought my car. He said he had a fuse box melt down on
him and that I should replace all the old fuses with new ones and
clean all the terminals in the fuse box. I took his advice and
Yesterday I changed them out and its a good thing I did. All the
fuses had a light oxidation on them and the fuse for the AC curcuit
had already started to melt down! I was able to clean/salvage the
terminals for the ac and clean up the rest of the terminals. Most of
the terminals looked pretty clean except a few which had some
corossion on them. Hopefully this will keep me from further problems
in this area. Just though I would pass this along, maybe it will
prevent a few more fuse boxes from melting down.
Tom C.
Vin# 01063
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 00:18:16 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: cold or hot starting?
See Below.
-----Original Message-----
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx [mailto:Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 3:13 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] cold or hot starting?
I just got my DMC back from the shop had over 1,000 dollars done since its
been running. Well, to make a short story very short, I live about 15min
from my
mechanic's shop. I picked up the car it runs on a really low idle needs a
new
computer,
( Idle can be adjusted, what makes you think it needs a new computer.)
and the idle motor is sticking.( Yes, This can happen. )
It starts ok, and drives fine. I went to my friends house and parked the can
the temp gage was around 220. The car sat for about 30-40mins. I then went
to Red Lobster with my friends which is about a 20min drive, the car reached
just under 220 since it was mainly
highway.
( 220 is to high, your reaching the point of damage to the engine.This needs
to be addressed now.)
We went in to eat at 8:15, and came out at about 10:10, I went to start
the car and nothing. it would just about start then kick out. After a half
hour
of trying to start the car it finally came back, and the rest of the night I
had no problems.
( Cars get hotter after shutting off the engine and then in a little while
they start cooling down. You could have a pluse coil or Ignition coil going
out.}
The car has a new Fuel pump, accumulator, thermostat, time switch, baffle,
hoses, water pump, basically almost restored, plus more parts does anyone
know
what may have caused this?
See above.
I drove it to day to work and it ran fine, no problems.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Darryl
5898
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 08:40:14 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: AC condensation drain and coolant leak
This hose plugs up often. Leaves get into the housing and start
to decompose, plugging up the drain. I had to remove the blower
motor, hook up a vacuum to the hose, and cycle water through the
unit until the water came out clean.
The hose itself runs along the top of the frame and gas tank. Mine
is long enough to dangle by the right front wheel opening. The
hose is pretty thin walled, so wherever it bends is a good place
for plugs to form.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: a230sl [mailto:a230sl@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 4:34 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] AC condensation drain and coolant leak
I have noticed that after a drive with the AC on in our very humid
weather, the car "drips" a lot of clear condensation. Mine is coming
off the lower gas tank plate in several locations. I am assuming
there is a drain hose for this, but what is the routing of this
hose? Mainly, where does it exit the frame? Does it protrude below
the frame somewhere? Or just fall onto the lower gas tank plate?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 07:32:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My car is still for sale
You forgot to mention the most important detail about your car for sale.This may be a tip off that you asking too much.Whats the figuire?
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 14:58:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance is
operating.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the absence
of
> the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> additional suspects are welcome.
>
> Rich
> #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 11:13:40 -0400
From: "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Vacuum line question
Where is the heater core shut off valve?
Michael W. Townsley
# 17043
townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 10:17 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum line question
Mechanic hooked up wrong. He's running vacuum backwards through mode
switch.
Line operates heater core shut off valve. Is only active in Max A/C
mode. Runs from passenger intake rail (one device of many on big 3/8"
line), through mode switch, under console in hard plastic line, out
driver's pontoon, to heater core shut off valve.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "aaron_t_graham"
<aaron_t_graham@xxxx> wrote:
> There's a lone vacuum line that comes into the engine from the side of
> the engine compartment -- toward the back, on the left side. It's
> quite lonely back in that part of the engine compartment, so it's easy
> to see which line I'm talking about.
>
> If I have this line disconnected, everything still seems to work just
> fine. Idle is good, acceleration is good, and all climate controls
> work just like they should. My mechanic hooked it up to where he
> thought it should be, and when he did that, lots of hissing noises
> started coming from the A/C panel mode switch area.
>
> So it comes down to this: when that line is hooked up, everything
> works okay and the A/C mode switch hisses. When that line isn't
> hooked up, everything works okay and there is no hissing.
>
> Any ideas on this one?
>
> Aaron
> #1506
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 10:22:55 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Vacuum line question
On the back of the engine behind the right head if you are looking at the back of the
car. It is on the opposite side of the Distributor near the coil box but closer to the
bell housing for the transmission.
I am told not all Deloreans has this shut of valve.
Mark
michael townsley wrote:
> Where is the heater core shut off valve?
>
> Michael W. Townsley
> # 17043
> townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 10:17 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum line question
>
> Mechanic hooked up wrong. He's running vacuum backwards through mode
> switch.
>
> Line operates heater core shut off valve. Is only active in Max A/C
> mode. Runs from passenger intake rail (one device of many on big 3/8"
> line), through mode switch, under console in hard plastic line, out
> driver's pontoon, to heater core shut off valve.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "aaron_t_graham"
> <aaron_t_graham@xxxx> wrote:
> > There's a lone vacuum line that comes into the engine from the side of
> > the engine compartment -- toward the back, on the left side. It's
> > quite lonely back in that part of the engine compartment, so it's easy
> > to see which line I'm talking about.
> >
> > If I have this line disconnected, everything still seems to work just
> > fine. Idle is good, acceleration is good, and all climate controls
> > work just like they should. My mechanic hooked it up to where he
> > thought it should be, and when he did that, lots of hissing noises
> > started coming from the A/C panel mode switch area.
> >
> > So it comes down to this: when that line is hooked up, everything
> > works okay and the A/C mode switch hisses. When that line isn't
> > hooked up, everything works okay and there is no hissing.
> >
> > Any ideas on this one?
> >
> > Aaron
> > #1506
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 11:44:38 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Vacuum line question
on the forward passenger side of the engine bay, more or less.
Find the 1/8th inch hose coming out of the driver side engine bay wall.
Follow it to the passenger side; it connects to the valve.
Jim
1537
On Sun, 17 Aug 2003 11:13:40 -0400 "michael townsley"
<townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Where is the heater core shut off valve?
>
> Michael W. Townsley
> # 17043
> townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 10:17 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum line question
>
> Mechanic hooked up wrong. He's running vacuum backwards through mode
> switch.
>
> Line operates heater core shut off valve. Is only active in Max A/C
> mode. Runs from passenger intake rail (one device of many on big
> 3/8"
> line), through mode switch, under console in hard plastic line, out
> driver's pontoon, to heater core shut off valve.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "aaron_t_graham"
> <aaron_t_graham@xxxx> wrote:
> > There's a lone vacuum line that comes into the engine from the
> side of
> > the engine compartment -- toward the back, on the left side. It's
> > quite lonely back in that part of the engine compartment, so it's
> easy
> > to see which line I'm talking about.
> >
> > If I have this line disconnected, everything still seems to work
> just
> > fine. Idle is good, acceleration is good, and all climate
> controls
> > work just like they should. My mechanic hooked it up to where he
> > thought it should be, and when he did that, lots of hissing noises
> > started coming from the A/C panel mode switch area.
> >
> > So it comes down to this: when that line is hooked up, everything
> > works okay and the A/C mode switch hisses. When that line isn't
> > hooked up, everything works okay and there is no hissing.
> >
> > Any ideas on this one?
> >
> > Aaron
> > #1506
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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>
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> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
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>
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>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 15:54:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vacuum line question
The heater valve is supposed to be in front of the motor by the
firewall on one of the small hoses that run foward to the heater.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxx> wrote:
> Where is the heater core shut off valve?
>
> Michael W. Townsley
> # 17043
> townfour@xxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 15:55:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.
I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual required.
The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle microswitch
but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the engine
cover.
Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the cause
of this was incorrectly set CO screw. I started richen the mixture,
and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing.
Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
pressure.
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
> in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
> solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
> micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
is
> operating.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
absence
> of
> > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > additional suspects are welcome.
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 15:57:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
Check the frequency valve. If it isn't buzzing then the engine won't
have any power and the car will run terrible. It is on the right side
valve cover. Make sure you hooked up it's ground wire on the intake
manifold.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote:
> The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
> in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
> solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
> micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance is
> operating.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 12:47:17 EDT
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: cold or hot starting?
The mechanic felt it was faulty and wanted to have it tested.
I noticed the car wasn't as hot using it yesterday but still heated quickly,
but I did a lot less driving. When I went to use it again last night it
wouldn't start. My mechanic told me the next time this happens to take off the air
filter and see if the plate under it can be pushed down. When I did this the
car almost started right up. I did it about three times and the car started fine
each time I would start it.
Some coil was replaced, but I'm not sure which one (this was at a different
shop) and I was charged three times for one of two.
Darryl
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 11:40:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Another HOWTO complete Auto trans filter and pan gasket
Hello all:
Another howto complete for checking and
corrections.
Howto: Replace automatic transmission filter / to
include the pan gasket.
Thanks to Dave T for some help on this off list.
enjoy!
Homepage:
http://retroserver.no-ip.com
HOWTO link:
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/transfilter.html
Jordan 11613
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 13:16:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Anyone from the North East going to SEDOC?
I hope you can make it to SEDOC... it's really a blast! Those guys put on a really fun show. Regarding your car... I'm sure everyone would love to see it... I know I'd personally kill to get a ride around the block in it :-). Here's what I have to say about those who don't believe in taking their cars out... or leaving them unattended... it's a *CAR*... not a toddler! Enjoy it like it was meant to be enjoyed! If you decide to drive down, myself, Bill Robertson, and Bob Miller are looking at meeting up in Charlotte, NC on Friday the 19th. Coming from the North East you'll most likely have to pass through Charlotte on I-85 anyways... so if you and others are interested in a caravan... drop me a line.
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford & Charlotte NC
--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Although people always try to persuade me not to put
>mileage on the Legend turbo car, I'm considering
>making the 900Mi trip to Atlanta for this event..
>Anyone else from the north east planning to go?
_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 13:19:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean For Sale
to bad you dont live in germany. I have an automatic
looking for 5 speed
jordan 11613
--- phoenix1962002 <phoenix1962002@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> WE have a 1983 Delorean for sale. We originally put
> it up as an even
> trade as we have a manul trans and we would like a
> automatic. But we
> will sell it out right if we can too. Every is
> alright, it was in a
> collection and has 5000 original milage. We have
> pictures if anyone
> is interested.
>
> AJ & Barbara
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 00:14:38 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
The seller does seem to have a good Ebay history, but I agree 'will not post
or email pictures' sets off the alarm bells....
One easy way to remedy this is to see if there is anyone from central
Connecticut willing to visit the supposed treasure trove of DeLorean cars
and parts.
Any volunteers??
Chris Hawes in the UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 1:51 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxx> wrote:
> > http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> > ViewItem&category=10368&item=2428257870
> >
> > Looks kind of fishy with no pictures, and seems too good to be
> > true, but thought I would share it with you. Maybe we can get
> > pictures by emailing the seller.
> >
> > Patrick
> > VIN 1880
>
> I was thinking the same thing. My bull**** detector went off when I
> read the part about the seller throwing in a Bricklin AND a Camaro for
> free if you used the buy-it-now feature. Plus, he says that he will
> NOT post any pictures. Hmmm... I wonder why that would be? I guess
> you can't take pictures of cars that don't exist.
>
> Richard Rowe
> VIN 5853
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 23:51:23 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
I went to see this place of his about 3 years ago. It looks like an old
mechanics garage. There are deloreans scattered about but they are all
taken apart. There is not ONE that was whole. The pre-production one he was
talking about had an engine fire so I don't know how much is salvageable.
He has lots of parts but they did not seem to be stored properly and might
not be of any value ( parts that might fall apart like dash and tires and
other rubber). he has one red one that was the most recently started one
and it hadn't been started in 7 years then. I think he wants too much for
his stuff. Granted I did not know as much as I do know about deloreans but
the "other" cars like the bricklin were junk in my opinion. He would do
much better if he parted out some stuff but I don't think he wants to do
that. He was selling the building back then as well. He has a frame or
two. That is what I can remember.
Joseph Molino
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 8:51 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxx> wrote:
> > http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> > ViewItem&category=10368&item=2428257870
> >
> > Looks kind of fishy with no pictures, and seems too good to be
> > true, but thought I would share it with you. Maybe we can get
> > pictures by emailing the seller.
> >
> > Patrick
> > VIN 1880
>
> I was thinking the same thing. My bull**** detector went off when I
> read the part about the seller throwing in a Bricklin AND a Camaro for
> free if you used the buy-it-now feature. Plus, he says that he will
> NOT post any pictures. Hmmm... I wonder why that would be? I guess
> you can't take pictures of cars that don't exist.
>
> Richard Rowe
> VIN 5853
>
>
>
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 16:49:36 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Anyone from the North East going to SEDOC?
This reminds me. Walter and I are planning to head to SEDOC from Florida
on the same friday (although I will be following in a normal car, no D
yet for me unless i'm lucky in the next month). Anyone want to caravan
along in florida? Let's see who can get the longest caravan going :)
Samuel
Louie Golden wrote:
>I hope you can make it to SEDOC... it's really a blast! Those guys put on a really fun show. Regarding your car... I'm sure everyone would love to see it... I know I'd personally kill to get a ride around the block in it :-). Here's what I have to say about those who don't believe in taking their cars out... or leaving them unattended... it's a *CAR*... not a toddler! Enjoy it like it was meant to be enjoyed! If you decide to drive down, myself, Bill Robertson, and Bob Miller are looking at meeting up in Charlotte, NC on Friday the 19th. Coming from the North East you'll most likely have to pass through Charlotte on I-85 anyways... so if you and others are interested in a caravan... drop me a line.
>
>Louie Golden
>VIN 10115 Sanford & Charlotte NC
>
>--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
>>Although people always try to persuade me not to put
>>mileage on the Legend turbo car, I'm considering
>>making the 900Mi trip to Atlanta for this event..
>>Anyone else from the north east planning to go?
>>
>>
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 01:13:20 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cold or hot starting?
I may not be interpreting what you're saying correctly, but it seems
to me that you have a "hot start" problem. The car starts fine after
waiting for a few hours and when "cold iron" from sitting overnight, yes?
When you're pushing down on the plunger you're dumping liquid fuel in
the engine overcoming vapor lock and the engine starts.
If all this is true, the most common cause of this condition is a
failed accumulator. The accumulator maintains "rest pressure" or
pressue in the line when the car is off. It keeps the liquid fuel from
draining out of the lines. If this happens when the car is hot, you
get vapor lock.
You can test this when the car is hot and fails to start by unhooking
the grey power plug on the control pressure regulator and hooking it
up to the blue cold start valve. (unhook the blue plug of course) They
are both on the left (driver's) side of the engine. If the car starts
this way then your accumulator is faulty.
I agree with the other fellows though..220 is TOO hot. Take it from
me, I just got done with a brutal head gasket replacement job because
either I or the previous owner overheated the engine. I clogged the
list with my drek for months trying to get things fixed after that.
Be careful. :)
Rich
#5335
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Swoyerzone@xxxx wrote:
> The mechanic felt it was faulty and wanted to have it tested.
> I noticed the car wasn't as hot using it yesterday but still heated
quickly,
> but I did a lot less driving. When I went to use it again last night it
> wouldn't start. My mechanic told me the next time this happens to
take off the air
> filter and see if the plate under it can be pushed down. When I did
this the
> car almost started right up. I did it about three times and the car
started fine
> each time I would start it.
>
> Some coil was replaced, but I'm not sure which one (this was at a
different
> shop) and I was charged three times for one of two.
>
> Darryl
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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