To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 7 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Hunting with A/C on From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: Slow acceleartion after rain From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> 3. Looking for engine shop in MD From: "brucedduncan" <bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Proper trailering (WAS Trailer co-op to Pigeon Forge) From: "Brian Henderlong" <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Hunting with A/C on From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> 6. Re: Slow acceleration after rain From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> 7. Re: Clean the fuel tank? From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 01:59:08 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Hunting with A/C on You need to find the vacuum leak. It is going to be anywhere from the mode switch on to the hoses and actuators. Start with the mode switch if it hisses. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote: > When the engine warms up to running temp the cold idle hunting is gone. > > I turn on the A/C with a warm engine and the idle hunts again. > > I turn off the A/C with a warm engine the hunting is gone. > > What is wrong? > > Mark > 6683 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 02:07:47 -0000 From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Slow acceleartion after rain Sounds like a voltage drop in the primary coil voltage. The connections going to the voltage resistor and coil need to be cleaned up. Put some "bulb grease" on the connections after you clean them real well. Clean ALL of the connections. When I lived in Houston I experienced similar problems. If it just happened when driving I would say you need to put some silicone on the back side of the distributor cap. Driving in really heavy rains would always spray lots of water on the distributor cap and moisture would get into my distributor cap. The location of the cap is such that the rain spray is like spraying water up on to the underside edge so, without seal water gets in. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "c247852" <FSMinc@xxxx> wrote: > I have a 6,000 mile Delorean I use only for running short errands > and it always runs perfectly...except after a good Florida rain. > When I go to start it, it fires up quickly and normally, but when I > press the gas, it goes but it feels very sluggish, even as I > accelerate through the gears. After awhile it starts to improve > (presumably after the cars heat evaporates the troublesome water.) > It does this even if the car hasn't been driven in the rain - in > other words if its just been sitting out in the rain. When I open > up the engine compartment it is dry as a bone - no water appears to > be getting into the throttle where the air/gas mix? The only ports > of entry for water appear to be where it is supposed to be open to > the elements such as the side air intake by the far rear side window > or the drains in the front windshield (maybe its getting into the > gas tank through the worn out gas cap boot?) Maybe splash from under > the car is getting in somewhere...but then again it does this if its > just been sitting in the rain and not splashing through water. Any > body have any ideas what's going on here? Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 02:23:26 -0000 From: "brucedduncan" <bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Looking for engine shop in MD My engine has been tapping recently at idle...and I have a sinking suspicion its a rocker arm. I want to know if anyone on the list has had any experience with shops in MD with this kind of work. I am located in the Frederick area and work in Rockville (near DC). Thanks, Bruce Duncan ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 22:37:13 -0400 From: "Brian Henderlong" <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Proper trailering (WAS Trailer co-op to Pigeon Forge) > In an uncovered transport imagine the sight on the road with a car hauler > full of 10 DeLoreans. That would certainly be an awesome sight... but remember, they must all face FORWARD! Some of the list members have had their cars damaged by backwards-faced towing. - Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL - http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 02:27:19 -0000 From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Hunting with A/C on Idle motor "sticky"; check the connections. The fuel mixture could be changing drastically by the frequency valve. Check for vacuum leaks. Check for a clean connection at the frequency valve. Also, the oxygen sensor could be going bad on you. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote: > When the engine warms up to running temp the cold idle hunting is gone. > > I turn on the A/C with a warm engine and the idle hunts again. > > I turn off the A/C with a warm engine the hunting is gone. > > What is wrong? > > Mark > 6683 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 22:52:53 -0400 From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Slow acceleration after rain First, I would check for water in the plug wells. If water is present it does not burn off like you would think it should. In any case, you need to get something down there to check for water before you try and remove a plug because the last thing you want to do is let water drain into the cylinder (I used a lint free paper towel and a small screwdriver). Next I would consider a major tune-up. Any vendor can supply a kit. I could be caused by a breakdown of plug wire insulation. Ed 10541 _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 03:19:29 -0000 From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Clean the fuel tank? I had to take care of a few more things before I could start my Delorean up again (I just turned it on for the first time in the better part of a year today). Your advice helped save me some time, though. I ended up leaving the less than half tank of gas in the car without adding anything to it or draining any before starting. Although the car was stored outside in Maryland for about ten months, including winter, the gas still smelled like gasoline, the car started fine, and everything seems to be in order. Thanks again for the advice. Jonah Beram --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote: > 9 months usually will not be enough for the gas to go bad if it was > sitting in a garage out of direct heat and weather. You can also > tell if the gas has turned bad by the smell - you indicated it > seemed ok - how did it smell? Since it is at half tank I would think > it is low risk to fill the rest of the tank with fresh gas and start > it. Max I would do based on your comments is just do a hand pump > drain (there are plastic pumps available for less than $20) then > fill it with fresh gas and get going. > > Harold McElraft - 3354 > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jberam1" <jberam@xxxx> wrote: > > While I was away at school, my Delorean sat with about > > a half tank of gas. This was probably since around > > November/December, a little bit over nine months (I originally had > > arranged for someone to drive the car every two weeks but that > fell > > through after I'd already left for school and, unfortunately, I > > never had a chance to drain the tank or put a fuel stabilizer like > > Stabil in it). > > > > Today I removed the baffle in the luggage compartment and took the > > fuel sending unit out and the gas itself looks alright, it hadn't > > turned into tar or anything (although I guess that doesn't really > > mean much as there could be sludge at the bottom of the tank). I > > think I read somewhere on these boards that gas can sit around for > > at least six months without getting contaminated and screwing the > > fuel line. I was wondering if this was a conservative estimate; do > > you guys think that my car has been sitting long enough to justify > > doing the fuel tank drain/clean at all, or is it unnecessary? > > > > And if I do decide to go through with the draining/cleaning > process, > > (and I'm using the DMCNews thread at > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/32116 for my > > reference) how exactly do I "go after it" with my Berryman's B12? > I > > understand the whole process fine up until the point where I have > to > > clean the tank through the 3" fuel sending unit hole. I can't > really > > fit my hand through it. Any advice would be much appreciated. > Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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