To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Alternate side-stripes on Ebay DMC
From: AdamRayVaughn@xxxxxxx
2. RE: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. My upcoming 1st DeLorean
From: enid maldonado <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Oil pressure readings / indications
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: No Go
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Details, Details.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. DeLorean register CarCommunity.net
From: "carfanatic1977" <carfanatic1977@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Parting out Deloreans...
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Parts Available
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Parting out Deloreans...
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
12. TOP TEN REASONS TO PART YOUR DELOREAN
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
13. Carfax
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Details, Details.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Lug Nuts (was Details, details)
From: "miltdanfoss" <d@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Dmc parting out/read between the lines!
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Parting out Deloreans...
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: My upcoming 1st DeLorean
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 20:55:05 EDT
From: AdamRayVaughn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Alternate side-stripes on Ebay DMC
This car was on ebay in February and it had the wide black side stripe. This
is the 2nd time I have seen this car on ebay with the "rare" custom side
stripe. One of the owners changed it after he bought it in February.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:04:38 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
Jordan, 4 of the 12mm copper washers cost more than 40cents. I pay more than
25Cents for the puffy o ring washer for the free oil filter I give out.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 1:56 PM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Should something else be included in the Major service
kit
Hello all:
I could be wrong here, if so correct me, the major
service kit from DMC Houston includes a fuel filter.
Shouldnt it also include the copper washers to connect
the banjo lines? Everyone strongly recommends not to
reuse copper washers. Shouldnt the 40cents worth of
copper be included. I believe the fuel filter needs
four.
thanx
jordan
Part # Qty Description
100523 1 FILTER, FUEL
101069 1 LAMBDA SENSOR
102114 1 FILTER,OIL
102249 1 GASKET,ROCKER CVR LH
102256 1 GASKET, ROCKER CVR RH
102442 1 BELT,ALTERNATOR
102443 6 SPARKPLUG
102575 1 AIR FILTER ELEMENT
102604 1 ROTOR,DISTRIBUTOR
102606 1 CAP,DISTRIBUTOR
102702 1 WIRE SET IGNITION
103516 1 GASKET, FLUID PAN
103702 1 STRAINER,FLUID
103703 1 GASKET,FILTER
105505 1 DRIVE BELT,A/C
110700 1 COIL WIRE,COAX
__________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:40:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: enid maldonado <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My upcoming 1st DeLorean
Hey everyone.
**Just to make things clear; this DeLorean I mention is already sold. Not trying to be offensive, but I know people who try to snag such rarities from others when they see the opportunity. This one is SOLD - contract written, signed, and finalized - money is currently exchanging hands.**
I have made purchase of getting my 1st DeLorean, and I am going to go pick it up this Thanksgiving. I have a good friend here in Pensacola who I've told about this to absolute death, so I figured I'd give him a break and tell everyone else! I have one or two questions.
I'm sure most of you "transported" your DeLorean when you first bought it. For those of you who did, what towing/moving service did you use? Also, please give me an idea of how much it cost. I know your quote will be different from mine, but I just want a good idea of how much it may run.
The owner claims (since I have not actually seen the engine yet) it has one of the rare turbo engines. I will believe that when I see it. From what he tells me, this car runs and drives smoothly, has all owner information, manuals. The report (carfax) seems to come out excellent, and he says he has refurbished selected areas - the fuel system, engine, both compartments behind the passenger and driver's seat (don't recall the exact term and definitions for those areas), and brand new tires on the car. The exterior is in flawless shape; the only thing wrong with the interior is there is *one* crack in the driver's seat. He has completely refurbished the interior, but he has also driven this car quite frequently, so there is already a crack in the driver's seat. Wish me luck as I enter the world of "pampering and owning/maintaining" a DeLorean. Don't get me wrong; I'm not someone who just saw BTTF and now MUST own a DeLorean; I have respected and loved the DeLorean for quite
some time now. I also feel extremely privileged considering I'm not even 25 yet, and I have this incredible opportunity to own such a beautiful car. I'm learning how it all works; I'm very new at actually knowing what's under the "hood" and knowing how all the components work - please be patient if I'm off here and there with terms or ideas on how things work. If all goes well, I hope to travel to Pigeon Forge next year and hopefully meet some of you there!!
Thank you for sharing my excitement! I can't wait to go get it in 3 months and bring it home for the very first time!
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 04:23:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil pressure readings / indications
Hello all:
According to the tech bible
Oil pressure, warm engine, new oil/filter
900 rpm min. 14.2 psi
3000 rpm 57.0 psi
The pictures on the howto show something drasticaly
different. So where looking at one or more of three
things.
1. Oil sending unit (new) not calibrated for gauge
2. Gauge out of calibration
3. Calibrated but oil pressure is excessive.
Standard oil gauges readings are relative to changes
in the cables resistance between ground. So if I
ground the sire to the gauge, it drops to zero, take
it off it flys to the top.
The question is...
Does anyone know what the resistance value is in
ohms at the different intervals on the gauge. I
believe the gauge is in incriments on 20psi.
if (X)ohms takes the gauge to 40psi and (2X)ohms to
80, i can see not only if my gauge is correct, but the
sending unit too.
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:08:16 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Go
Refer to Service Bulletins ST-05-2/82. I know your car Serial Number
is out of range for this but it is a good discussion and has a
detail diagram that may allow you to determine the source of your
problem.
If you study the diagram you will see that after you remove the
relay you can check to see if 1) the ignition switch is supplying
power at the start position 2) If there is sufficient power being
supplied to the relay to activate the solenoid (power to terminal
30/51) 3) If the neutral safety switch/ground for the relay is
present. Also, you can, if you feel qualified, jumper the solenoid
(30/51 to 87) to see if it will activate the starter.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx>
wrote:
> Help I have a starting issue again....
>
> Please help going nowhere fast.
>
> Paul
> #6463
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:18:17 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Details, Details.
Have you destroyed the chrome covers for the lug nuts yet? With an
impact, the covers often create a cushion that minimizes the affects
of the impact wrench. I would suggest using a break-over bar with an
extension (cheater) to loosen the nuts. It is also cleaner to break
off the lug nuts this way and just replace them.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I spent the day with Mike "The Detail King" Cohee. If you want to
make
> your car look excellent, and like-factory condition, and on the
cheap,
> he's the guy to see.
>
> On to other issues:
>
> I have lug nuts on the front wheels that won't come free with a 265
> ftlb air-impact wrench. This baffles me. One wheel I expected
problems
> with because I wasn't able to get it off -before- I bought the air
> tools. The other wheel I don't understand because I had removed
and
> installed it with the factory lug wrench. Talk about rust!
>
> The lug nuts are beginning to round off. Before I destroy them,
what
> ways are there to bust these things free? Are there nut-splitters
that
> can get at them in those recesses? A torch? Would I be better off
at a
> professional garage?
>
> I have 4 brand-new BFG Radial T/A's sitting in my basement, ready
for
> mounting. Lend me your thoughts!
>
> Rich
> #5335 -Maryland
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 14:26:45 -0000
From: "carfanatic1977" <carfanatic1977@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean register CarCommunity.net
Hi guys,
Please check out my site at: http://www.carcommunity.net
It's a (non-commercial) all car register for car enthusiasts all over
the world, where you can watch cars for other enthusiasts and add
your own. We recently re-opened the DeLorean community which you can
visit directly via: http://delorean.carcommunity.net
Hope to see you there!
Cheers,
Roel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 06:50:37 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parting out Deloreans...
Would a vendor want to buy this car? D1, DMCH, PJGrady, they need
cars to refurbish and sell right? I heard that at one time a vendor
was buying deloreans for $10,000 a pop. If the irreplacable parts
like the underbody are okay then thats something at least.
What happens to the VIN number? Can the VIN tags be attached to a
newly constructed car and sold this way?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 02:28:40 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Parts Available
***** New ground *****
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Scott Cagle" <dmc83n99@xxxx> wrote:
> ***** Moderator's Note *****
> We aren't plowing any new ground here. Please consider this
> thread closed.
>
> Mike G - Moderator of the weekend
>
> *****
I'll have to argue this point too! :) I think that we've only begun to
till the rocks out. So I do request that this be let thru.
<SNIP>
> Now, if Ken feels this strongly that this car
> can't be completely repaired without a massive cost on the end, then
I for
> one believe him, and think it best that a car be parted out to save some
> others rather than continue to deteriorate where it can do no one
any good.
I fully agree with Ken that it is not financially feasable to restore
this car. That's not the actual debate here. What is the actual topic,
is at what point should we write off a car. A car like this would be
better off to go to someone putting personal goals ahead of their
wallet. Hear me out...
<SNIP>
> I guess my point is this. We are so quick to jump on the wagon to
point out
> the faults in destroying a classic car that we aren't thinking on
the end
> view.
Half true. The problem is we're picturing two different solutions for
this kind of car. And that is where we're not agreeing. We just need
to open our minds a bit. Let me try to explain by citing the same car
that you mentioned below:
<SNIP>
Currently there is a car 2 miles from my house that has sat in a
> backyard for about 5 years. It suffered massive flood damage in
Texas. It
> has been sunbaked in the Florida sun. All the black plastic in the
> electrical compartment is now brown. Does this make me a bad De Lorean
> owner because I don't want to buy it and send it to NY or Houston to put
> 25000 dollars into fixing it, but believe it should be parted out rather
> than completely destroyed by the advancement of the elements on it?
<SNIP>
Hardly. Because you're staying neutral with the car by NOT buying it,
that is perhaps the best thing that you can do for the car. If you
can't, or don't wish to fix the car, then don't buy it. And THAT is
the point that I am trying to put across. If the car sits for another
5-10 years, so be it. Eventually, the right person will come along. A
person who wants to take on the challenge. Maybe it'll be because of
an intense passion for the car. Maybe it's someone who's looking for
this major of a car restoration, and they happen to spot this car, and
want it. Who knows. The point is that the best thing for the car is to
let it be. Give it time, things will click together. My car had to
wait 12 years before I came along. And perhaps since you know of this
car, you could share it with the list. Who knows, because of your
actions, you may spark someone's interest, and they buy the car. I'd
reccomend contacting the person, and put the word out on it with
theirr permission. Even the car that Ken has was run through a
gauntlet of potential people who wanted to purchase it. So maybe
you're the key to getting this particular car back on the road. Just
remember, half of the fun for a good number of people is actually
rebuilding the car, not just being an owner of one.
BTW, if it is a flood recovery vehicle, that by far isn't a death
sentance. As said time and time again, customization can be the
answer. Have a look:
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/montkw/delorean/cincin/cincinnati.htm
Customizaton is a win/win situaton for everyone. It allows defunct
cars to regain their operational glory, and affords those with "stock"
cars the opprotunity to have an unique car become even more unique.
Think of it that way.
What many of us here are pushing for is pushing for the option of
customizing to replace parting out. Hope is never lost...
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
p.s.
This has probably been overall, the most civil debate I've ever
seen/partaken of here on the DML, contrary to popular belief. No
matter what you stance on either side of the debate, it makes me proud
to associtate with so many others here that share the same level of
passion for our cars!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 08:12:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
ok the price was an arbitrary number. The point is,
by comparison to the total cost of the kit, shouldnt
the washers that are NEEDED to change out the fuel
filter be included. thats just my thought. i dunno
john, im not having much luck in the copper seal
department.
jordan 11613
--- John Hervey <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Jordan, 4 of the 12mm copper washers cost more than
> 40cents. I pay more than
> 25Cents for the puffy o ring washer for the free oil
> filter I give out.
> John Hervey
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jordan rubin
> [mailto:nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 1:56 PM
> To: dmcnewsgroup
> Subject: [DML] Should something else be included in
> the Major service
> kit
>
>
> Hello all:
>
> I could be wrong here, if so correct me, the
> major
> service kit from DMC Houston includes a fuel filter.
> Shouldnt it also include the copper washers to
> connect
> the banjo lines? Everyone strongly recommends not
> to
> reuse copper washers. Shouldnt the 40cents worth of
> copper be included. I believe the fuel filter needs
> four.
>
> thanx
>
> jordan
>
>
> Part # Qty Description
> 100523 1 FILTER, FUEL
> 101069 1 LAMBDA SENSOR
> 102114 1 FILTER,OIL
> 102249 1 GASKET,ROCKER CVR LH
> 102256 1 GASKET, ROCKER CVR RH
> 102442 1 BELT,ALTERNATOR
> 102443 6 SPARKPLUG
> 102575 1 AIR FILTER ELEMENT
> 102604 1 ROTOR,DISTRIBUTOR
> 102606 1 CAP,DISTRIBUTOR
> 102702 1 WIRE SET IGNITION
> 103516 1 GASKET, FLUID PAN
> 103702 1 STRAINER,FLUID
> 103703 1 GASKET,FILTER
> 105505 1 DRIVE BELT,A/C
> 110700 1 COIL WIRE,COAX
>
> __________________________________
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> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
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>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 12:00:25 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Parting out Deloreans...
The VIN should really go with the chassis.
This makes me wonder about the legality of the stainless replacement
chassis, and what happens to your VIN.
If someone buys the stainless frame and sells the used one, and then
someone else builds a "new" car on the old frame, the person with the OLD
frame should have the VIN. I wonder what this does to the value of the
stainless frame car? Maybe you could change the name of the car and not
get any more BTTF jokes.
Jim
1537 chassis.
On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 06:50:37 -0000 "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
>
> Would a vendor want to buy this car? D1, DMCH, PJGrady, they need
> cars to refurbish and sell right? I heard that at one time a vendor
> was buying deloreans for $10,000 a pop. If the irreplacable parts
> like the underbody are okay then thats something at least.
>
> What happens to the VIN number? Can the VIN tags be attached to a
> newly constructed car and sold this way?
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:02:18 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: TOP TEN REASONS TO PART YOUR DELOREAN
The following is from David Letterman's TOP TEN LIST from last night.
THE TOP TEN REASONS TO PART OUT YOUR DELOREAN:
10. So nobody ever asks you "Where's the flux capacitor?" again!
9. Because a parted Delorean is just as usefull as a daily driver.
8. The stainless parts make a great outdoor kitchen.
7. Because a "parted" car takes up so much less room in your garage.
6. Because selling 2800 individual parts on Ebay is so much fun!
5. To look for that cocaine stash "rebate" that every non-owner asks you
about.
4. To try and get to that !*#@% fuel accumulator they hid in the frame!
3. Because your restoration project is about to cause a divorce, (yours).
2. Becasue it's your car, and you should do with it as you see fit!
1. To give the DML'ers something to post about!
Disclaimer:
The above posted list is not meant to be a politcal statement, nor to defame,
inflame or cause a rash on any persons, either real or fictional. The "LIST"
is not from the "David Letterman" of late night television fame, but the David
Letterman of Hooterville, Arkansas. Any similarities to any other David
Letterman's is strictly coincidental. It should also be stated that, the poster of
this posting, has neither parted a DeLorean in the past, nor has had intimate
relations while in politcal office with anyone who has been known to have
parted a DeLorean. However, the right to part a DeLorean in the future is
reserved, and may or may not be excercised. This posting has been paid for by the
"Elect John Z. DeLorean for Governor of California Committee".
Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
3356 (2 times concours loser)
15779 (3 times Superbowl watcher)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:47:55 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Carfax
I wish I was not asking but I am. Would anyone be willing to run a
carfax report on a delorean for me? Carfax does not like the domain
extention .cx on email addresses and I do not have any other domains to
email from (as I own this one).
If someone doesnt mind running a report, email me privately please.
Samuel (AT) Lightspeed (dot) cx
Samuel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 17:52:45 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Details, Details.
I haven't destroyed the lugnuts yet. :)
I'm hearing this about the covering a lot. I found a long pole that
will fit over my breaker bar here at work. I'll slip out with it in
and hour and we'll see. :)
I have no problem destroying the lug nuts but I still don't get what
you mean by breaking them off?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> Have you destroyed the chrome covers for the lug nuts yet? With an
> impact, the covers often create a cushion that minimizes the
affects
> of the impact wrench. I would suggest using a break-over bar with
an
> extension (cheater) to loosen the nuts. It is also cleaner to break
> off the lug nuts this way and just replace them.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I spent the day with Mike "The Detail King" Cohee. If you want to
> make
> > your car look excellent, and like-factory condition, and on the
> cheap,
> > he's the guy to see.
> >
> > On to other issues:
> >
> > I have lug nuts on the front wheels that won't come free with a
265
> > ftlb air-impact wrench. This baffles me. One wheel I expected
> problems
> > with because I wasn't able to get it off -before- I bought the air
> > tools. The other wheel I don't understand because I had removed
> and
> > installed it with the factory lug wrench. Talk about rust!
> >
> > The lug nuts are beginning to round off. Before I destroy them,
> what
> > ways are there to bust these things free? Are there nut-splitters
> that
> > can get at them in those recesses? A torch? Would I be better off
> at a
> > professional garage?
> >
> > I have 4 brand-new BFG Radial T/A's sitting in my basement, ready
> for
> > mounting. Lend me your thoughts!
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335 -Maryland
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:34:27 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <d@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lug Nuts (was Details, details)
I haven't had this problem on the D, so there may be a different way
of getting around this issue, but on my aluminum, deep well wheels on
my Jeep Wrangler I had this very same problem.
Mine was caused by the tire mechanic running down the lugs to full
torque with the pnuematic wrench and with out doing it in steps. In
the process the mech warped the wheel as it mounts to the rotor.
I tried everything and ended up having to have it cut with a welding
torch, which ruined the wheel.
First though, they tried to used a tool they got from Matco tools
(Sears catalogue sells it too). It uses a hammering drill with an
insert (3/8" drive) to cut into and grab the nut, while at the same
time hammering to break it free.
I observed the mechanic trying to get it off and one thing I would
have him try differently, is to leave all the lug nuts on and torqued
and try to loosen the bad lug(s) first with the tool.
I believe the D wheels are aluminum too. The mech heated the lug stud
with the torch and it eventually snapped. Unfortunatly, aluminum
melts sooner than steel, so the wheel was ruined. My problem was
covered by the tire store. You can ask the tire store if they can
refer you to a place to try to get this done.
You can try applying the "soaking with penetrant and heating" methods
used for cooling system/exhaust bolts/studs as well (search the
archives).
Hope this helps.
Dan in Cocoa (3932)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 21:40:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Should something else be included in the Major service kit
Copper washers either seal.... or they don't. I've re-used washers on my
metering head countless times when I didn't have a supply of new ones
and they're still fine. A quick check to see if there are any leaks
usually yields one or two that need a tweak, but I've never had one
spring a leak after it's evidently sealed. With new ones you also have
to go through the process of crushing them all over again, and that can
be hard enough that you break a bolt.
Did you ask DMCH to throw a couple of washers in for you?
The fuel filter should have a 90 degree elbow at the base and therefore
needs two washers at the top only.
Martin
jordan rubin wrote:
>Hello all:
>
> I could be wrong here, if so correct me, the major
>service kit from DMC Houston includes a fuel filter.
>Shouldnt it also include the copper washers to connect
>the banjo lines? Everyone strongly recommends not to
>reuse copper washers. Shouldnt the 40cents worth of
>copper be included. I believe the fuel filter needs
>four.
>
>thanx
>
>jordan
>
>
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 23:39:36 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dmc parting out/read between the lines!
Did anyone else catch this part of Kens post and did it sink in? I
read right over it the first time! Count me in on a raffle "D" !!!
How much per raffle ticket and where do I get them?
Ron
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kKoncelik@xxxx wrote:
The reason for me buying all of these cars is to generate cash to
find a car to use as a raffle car for the next DeLorean Car Show.
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 19:32:21 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Parting out Deloreans...
Thought I would add my to cents to the parts car discussion.
Rich W. has taken Ds that are non marketable and made them into various
D display cars.
These Ds draw people and make the car more exciting.
The real issue here is that the parts are not going to waste.
I can not tell you the number of rare muscle cars that are just junked.
I know a scrap yard that pays money for scrap (stolen?) aluminum rims.
Some of the ones I have seen crushed are extremely rare, but I could
not get the vendor to sell them to me. (once they are crushed they are
not traceable. )
The fact that NO Deloreans are being scrapped is just a wonderful
history that will make these cars last for many generations.
For example, I salvaged a burned out delorean. The only things left
were the rolling chassis and the front fiberglass. Everything else was
gone. Rich W. took the dented SS parts and restored them .
If the parts were being scrapped it would be a different thing. It this
case they are not.
BOB
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 11:25:46 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My upcoming 1st DeLorean
> **Just to make things clear; this DeLorean I mention is already sold. Not trying to be offensive, but I know people who try to snag such rarities from others when they see the opportunity. This one is SOLD - contract written, signed, and finalized - money is currently exchanging hands.**
People might think that comment was unwarranted, and without going into details, this exact thing happened to me, by someone on the DML. Someone offered some "advice" about a car I was considering, and they ended up buying it right out from under my nose without even telling me. So, yes - beware there is sliminess on a list like the DML - where you would least expect it. In the end, I ended up with a *much better* Delorean, so it all ended up well in the end.
-Hank
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