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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. rpm behavior
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: DeLorean problems
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: idle speed motors
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: rpm behavior
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: rpm behavior
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. DMC (Texas) Performance Exhaust
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: rpm behavior
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: ? angle drive demise
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Gas flap attachment?
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
12. RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
13. Re: ? angle drive demise
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Scary vacuum leaks
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
17. Re: rpm behavior
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 16:48:54 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
Subject: rpm behavior
I may have a difficult time explaining this but i'll try. I have
solved 95 percent of my idle issues but this one last little thing
bugs me. I am reluctant to do anything drastic cause my car starts
fine, has pep and idles pretty smooth. My question is when I take it
out of gear (5 speed). On most makes of cars the RPM drops to the
correct idle and settles where it should. On my car the idle drops
below the correct idle (about 600rpm) and then "catches itself and
goes up to about 7500 and idles pretty smooth. Before I solved my
idle problem it would stall alot doing this. After correcting some
improper hoses it runs much better.
I was wondering about the throttle valves and the little deceleration
valve that is supposed to relieve vacuum pressure for the few seconds
when you take car out of gear and the idle motor kicks in. There is
one full page in the DMC manual on this function. I had suspected
this as a possible cause and a fellow owner mentioned it too. Hope
this makes sense. I dont hear any mention of this as ever causing any
problems so this may be off base.
Just wanted to see if I could solve my last little idle glitch.
Mike C
2109
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 16:39:14 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean problems
Very true - we need to reinforce this once in a while. I (like most
of us) went thru that same "fix all the neglected stuff" process for
the first year or two of ownership, at this point my car is so
reliable that it's almost boring (since I'm fascinated by working on
them!).
So I've been working on other local cars, just for the fun of it.
After completing the trans rebuild on Rich's Buick-powered car, I did
a frame/body separation on another car last weekend so that the owner
can do a frame-swap. We'll reverse the process when he gets the new
(stainless) frame built up.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
> From reading posts on the DML the casual observer may conclude that
a
> Delorean is nothing but a bunch of problems covered by Stainless
> Steel. The truth is somewhat better than that. Many of
the "problems"
> can be traced to improper procedures done by less than knowledgeable
> mechanics for previous owners. When a "new" owner aquires
his "dream"
> the first impulse is to try to make a 20 + year old car look and
work
> like new. Depending on the car's history in many cases this requires
> undoing a lot of the previous work and doing a lot of neglected
> maintaince. I still see many cars running on ORIGIONAL cooling
hoses!
.....
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:24:05 -0700
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: idle speed motors
With all this discussion of the high cost of replacing idle speed motors I'd
like to note that I have lots of them available brand new for $125.00 which is
half the normal retail price (add $6.00 for postage). I will be adding them to
my web page soon.
Darryl T.
Specialty Automotive
delorean-parts.com
-------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through IMP: http://horde.org/imp/
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 19:44:15 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rpm behavior
Just give this a try - it's easy enough to reverse.
Back off the rear two brass screws by 2 turns, then back off the front
one by 1/2 a turn. This will give the engine something to breathe before
the idlespeed can "catch up". If it idles too fast, snug the front screw
down a little more - small moves on that can create big differences in
engine behaviour.
Although the DMC manual says not to use the brass screws, the Swiss
manual fo the Renault 30 , which used the same system, describes a
procedure for setting everything up with the idle speed motor closed,
getting it all working on the screws with the engine under no load. The
ISM then reacts to positive changes in load only.
BTW I assume your 7500 was meant to read 750
Martin
dmcmike2002 wrote:
>I may have a difficult time explaining this but i'll try. I have
>solved 95 percent of my idle issues but this one last little thing
>bugs me. I am reluctant to do anything drastic cause my car starts
>fine, has pep and idles pretty smooth. My question is when I take it
>out of gear (5 speed). On most makes of cars the RPM drops to the
>correct idle and settles where it should. On my car the idle drops
>below the correct idle (about 600rpm) and then "catches itself and
>goes up to about 7500 and idles pretty smooth.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 18:27:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rpm behavior
The decleration valves you are referring to are to prevent backfiring
when you quickly remove your foot from the gas pedal and coast. If you
do not get any backfiring then they are probably OK. You could inspect
them to make sure they move freely and are held closed by the springs.
When you go in there make sure you have all the gaskets, "O" rings and
spacers properly sealing. The throttle shaft shouldn't be too loose
either or you will have an air leak. Only 1 bolt holds the throttle
body so if it won't hold tight then you have to replace it and or use
a thread insert. Make sure the bolt also has a washer so it can't leak
under the head.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxx> wrote:
> I may have a difficult time explaining this but i'll try. I have
> solved 95 percent of my idle issues but this one last little thing
> bugs me. I am reluctant to do anything drastic cause my car starts
> fine, has pep and idles pretty smooth. My question is when I take it
> out of gear (5 speed). On most makes of cars the RPM drops to the
> correct idle and settles where it should. On my car the idle drops
> below the correct idle (about 600rpm) and then "catches itself and
> goes up to about 7500 and idles pretty smooth. Before I solved my
> idle problem it would stall alot doing this. After correcting some
> improper hoses it runs much better.
>
> I was wondering about the throttle valves and the little deceleration
> valve that is supposed to relieve vacuum pressure for the few seconds
> when you take car out of gear and the idle motor kicks in. There is
> one full page in the DMC manual on this function. I had suspected
> this as a possible cause and a fellow owner mentioned it too. Hope
> this makes sense. I dont hear any mention of this as ever causing any
> problems so this may be off base.
>
> Just wanted to see if I could solve my last little idle glitch.
>
> Mike C
> 2109
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:41:43 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC (Texas) Performance Exhaust
Someone from one of the lists emailed me last week asking if the exhausts
were in stock and at that time they were not available. I've lost your email
now, but after the backorders were filled today, we have got two extra sets
now available. This is the exhaust pictured at
http://www.delorean.com/exhaust.asp - after these two are sold I may not
have any more for retail sale until September.
James
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 20:47:07 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rpm behavior
thanks Martin and David....I always try and find problems no one else
has :-) I will try these...Yes the idle rpm should have been
750...and its scary to think a missing washer on a bolt could be a
vacuum leak...
Mike
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 20:12:10 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
Note that the hole for this tube is visible from the *inside* of the air
housing if you wedge the metering plate open and shine a light
down and to the left. This is actually a big help.
Also be aware that the o-ring is held in place by a brass
top-hat retainer pressed into the housing. Mine was missing,
making it impossible to keep the 0-ring properly positioned.
I didn't know this part existed until Rob Grady suggested
I check for it.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
On Friday, August 1, 2003, at 10:12 AM, Dave Swingle wrote:
> To see the hole in the bottom of the fuel housing that the tube from
> the IAC motor goes into. Although Hank noted to me that you can also
> see it from above with a sufficiently bright light. I just recall
> that finding the hole with the o-ring where that tube goes to be a
> tremendous pain.
>
> Dave
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
> wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>>
>> Im wondering what the mirror is for. It looks to be
>> like the two rubber hoses connected on both sides are
>> in reasonably accessable location, unless there is
>> something else im missing.
>> thanx
>>
>> jordan 11613
>>
>> --- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. Pull it and the
>>> whole tube out.
>>> Getting it back in is another matter. Involving some
>>> luck and small
>>> mirrors. It's quite do-able though. See adjacent
>>> post for the
>>> pitfalls. To avoid dirt clean everything before you
>>> start taking
>>> things apart.
>>>
>>> Dave Swingle
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 19:24:14 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
>Yup. Holding the gas pedal down while cranking the engine is actually apart
>of the starting instructions that come with the car from DMC. You can
actually
I've read that... I have always wondered my car should start without that
little step. Could be something to do with my horrible mileage too?
All though... I kind of like not having to push the pedal part way to start.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 15:58:46 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ? angle drive demise
Well..... after 21 years of faithful service, my angle drive is not
co-operating. It began to work spasmodically (8-10 mi. then the needle
bounces & dives to 0); so I pulled the cables, cleaned & lubed them, added
lube to the angle drive, & it sort of worked. I could turn the a-d cable by
hand, but would occ. notice a "catch" in the rotation. Spinning the tire
fwd - no (lower) speedo cable response. Spinning BKWD I can feel the (lower)
speedo cable turn in my fingers. Hmmm. So.... How does one get around
the interfering brake line to get to angle drive; what size wrench removes
it from the rotor; & what tips suggested for repair? I don't like having
parts inoperative. I can also be contacted at e-mail as above.
MUCH thanks in advance. Drive Stainless Robert # 6924 Sp Tag:
AgBULIT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 01:00:05 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Gas flap attachment?
In my previous post I had said the wrong thing. What I meant was,
how is the gas FLAP supposed to be attached to the hinge? On the
car I just purchased it looks like the owner epoxyed it on, but it
has cracked and come off. Any suggestions how it should go back on
or what I should do about it?
thanks,
Matt Spittle
#1604
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 21:34:20 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
Trans shift cable and bell cramk adjustment is critical and very sensitive. A turn of only 1 flat on the cable adj nuts will have a large impact on shift accuracy. Also check the service manual on shift lever adjustment relative to the shift gate. The shifter should be self centering in the 3rd/4th shift gate. Also, bad trans and engine mounts can make a difference in accuracy that changes as you drive or corner hard.
Jim
6147
"steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>81 Manual Delorean ?17k miles
>
>Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
>the car, the previous owner didn't drive much. still had stock clutch
>line, ?i replaced it with the SS clutch line, bled it out and every
>thing. ?I had NO clutch fluid leak anywhere. ?My fluid level is
>good, ?right after we put it in, we tested the clutch when it was
>still half way up on jacks, the reverse and first gear worked very
>well (little stickyness in reverse), but we go and drive it and 1st
>gear still has trouble getting into it, and reverse ALWAYS wants to
>grind, sometimes, the thing spins down and stops, but most of the
>time the gear just wont go in cause it rubs. ? i have no more money,
>what in the ? ? freak ?is going on........ ?tired of this. remember ,
>the car only has 17k miles and all gears are sticky kinda but 1st and
>reverse are wayy worse. ?also 5th gear has always been hard-you got
>to slam it in there to get it to work. ?please help before i go
>insane.
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 04:42:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ? angle drive demise
You may have a piece of trash in gears (housing is not weathertight).
Or a tooth may be damaged. Once off car, angle drive can be flushed by
spraying solvent between gear hubs and bushings, letting it run out
lubrication screw. Can also see most of teeth through lube screw.
Construction:
Angle drive housing is pot metal. Gears are steel. Gear hubs ride in
brass bushings. Are held in housing by pressed steel plate (opposite
spindle cable). Dave Swingle had success prying that plate out, but I
was afraid to try it -- pot metal ain't worth much even when it's new.
Unfortunately that's only way to release spindle cable from its gear.
I just soldered my repair to remaining stock cable (which I STILL
insist was wound wrong way...).
Angle drive held to knuckle by 1.25" nut. This nut also holds spindle
-- don't go driving around without it (you can remove angle drive.
Just be sure to put nut back). Angle drive attached to nut with a lock
ring in groove of spindle cable's brass bushing. Look closely inside
nut and you'll see it. Is not a snap ring -- remove with small
screwdrivers, not pliers.
Primary lubrication point is a screw in side of gear housing. I think
some people mess up by using too light weight oil in there. Gears are
exposed to same heat and friction as wheel bearings -- you're going to
need a proper grease. Moreover, because gear housing is not 100%
weathertight, light weight lubricant will just run out around gear
hubs. I packed grease around them as well as teeth. Hopefully seals
better.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxx>
wrote:
>
>
> Well..... after 21 years of faithful service, my angle drive is not
> co-operating. It began to work spasmodically (8-10 mi. then the needle
> bounces & dives to 0); so I pulled the cables, cleaned & lubed
them, added
> lube to the angle drive, & it sort of worked. I could turn the a-d
cable by
> hand, but would occ. notice a "catch" in the rotation. Spinning the
tire
> fwd - no (lower) speedo cable response. Spinning BKWD I can feel the
(lower)
> speedo cable turn in my fingers. Hmmm. So.... How does one get
around
> the interfering brake line to get to angle drive; what size wrench
removes
> it from the rotor; & what tips suggested for repair? I don't like
having
> parts inoperative. I can also be contacted at e-mail as
above.
> MUCH thanks in advance. Drive Stainless Robert # 6924
Sp Tag:
> AgBULIT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 04:55:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
Is it possible you've got a vacuum leak, have richened mixture to
compensate, which then comes back to bite you on the road as vacuum
drops? Vacuum leaks are mpg killers.
Engine vacuum alone should provide all the sensor plate action
necessary to open fuel injectors. Jetronic isn't like a carburetor --
no accelerator pump to squirt fuel. Is a cold start valve, but it has
nothing to do with accelerator cable.
If DMC itself recommended opening throttle plates to start car, what
does that say about idle speed motor so much in discussion of late?
Opening plates turns the thing off.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> >Yup. Holding the gas pedal down while cranking the engine is
actually apart
> >of the starting instructions that come with the car from DMC. You can
> actually
>
> I've read that... I have always wondered my car should start without
that
> little step. Could be something to do with my horrible mileage too?
>
> All though... I kind of like not having to push the pedal part way
to start.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 05:08:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Scary vacuum leaks
Trust me -- PRV sucks air EVERYWHERE. Is unlike anything I've ever
encountered on this side of the Pond. Major component of my ownership
has been chasing vacuum leaks all over the stupid thing. And I'm not
alone -- read comments in Volvo newsgroups (260/760 series). You need
to check so much more than just vacuum hoses and manifold mating
surfaces. See Message #33719 for starters. FWIW: my biggest leak
currently is seal around crank shaft in timing chain cover.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxx> wrote:
> thanks Martin and David....I always try and find problems no one else
> has :-) I will try these...Yes the idle rpm should have been
> 750...and its scary to think a missing washer on a bolt could be a
> vacuum leak...
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 12:06:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "steve" <steve@xxxx> wrote:
> 81 Manual Delorean 17k miles
>
> Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
> the car,
<SNIP>
I'll concur with everyone else, and say that you most likely need the shift
linkage, and the cable both adjusted. Although, I'll also add that the entire
linkage should also be lubricated with grease as well. I had simular symptoms
on my car, but not quite the same. 1st & 2nd were difficult to get into, unless I
lifted the shifter up and over to get to them. And yes, reverse was sometime
tricky. But 5th gear on my car was perfectly fine. All that I needed was a
crossgate cable adjustment to remedy my issue. The fore/aft linkage was
perfectly fine.
You need to get this taken care of ASAP, before you incure any damage to
your car. When the shifter assembly is out of adjustment, the gears inside of
the transaxle do NOT line up properly, and thus are not able to synchronize.
You inability to shift isn't a simple as somthing "sticking". It is a built in feature
to prevent you from damaging the gears. If you start trying to slam gears
around to force the car into gear, you will incurr damage. In the mean time, try
to drive conservativly, and remember to shift between gears gently.
Worst case senario: You end up damaging roll pins, syncros, and/or other
internal parts.
Best case senario: You're in traffic, you get frustrated, you slam the stick back,
and your car becomes immobile, because you just snapped Pivot Bolt inside
the chassis for the Shift Linkage! Been there, done that, so I am speaking from
personal experience. It sucks to put it kindly. Moreso when you breakdown in
the middle of a housing project area in the ghetto. Lesson learned: Pay
attention to my car, and treat her gently!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 12:17:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rpm behavior
More than likely you need to adjust the the microswitch at the
throttle plates to turn on the idle speed motor a little sooner.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxx>
wrote:
> I may have a difficult time explaining this but i'll try. I have
> problems so this may be off base.
>
> Just wanted to see if I could solve my last little idle glitch.
>
> Mike C
> 2109
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 12:34:45 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxx>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> I would also like to know if the tricky reverse problem is related to
> problem with the clutch system or something else....has anybody had
success
> using a synthetic lubricant in the transmission?
>
> Mike Townsley
I know that the UN1 transaxl lused in the DeLorean (it is NOT an R25 as
previously stated. That is mearly the suffix which dictates the gear set
contained within in reguards to specific ratios) is fully synchronized, but I don't
know if that includes the Reverse gear as well. I've the same thing not only on
my DeLorean, but every other manual vehicle that I've ever owned. Although,
I only experience this "problem" when the engine is first started, after the car
has been parked. Not while active, such as when performing parking
manuvers.
If you can't shift into reverse, try putting the car into neutral, and taking your
foot off of the clutch pedal to spin the gears inside. Then try shifting into
reverse to. Pushing the clutch pedal back down of course first! :)
Difficulty shifting into revers isn't really a "safety feature". That is after all the
job of the shifter assembly which forces you to lift up the assmbly before
sliding into position.
As a side note, the Renault/Eagle cars from the mid to late 80's use the UN1
transaxle as well on their 4-cylinder engines. However, they use a ring right
below the shifter knob that you must lift up by pulling it with your finger tips,
instead of pulling up the entire shifter. In addition, these cars use an
ergonomic shifter knob, rather than a ball. And they appear to still have the
same shift pattern embossed into the top. So for everyone out there who want
to have something a bit "diffferent", FYI.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 12:55:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
Reverse is not syncronized. If you've been idling, clutch out, in
neutral, it will sometimes go easier into reverse if you put it in
some other gear first (Opposite of what Robert said - different
problem = different cure.)
I've been running synthetic (Valvoline) in mine for about 9000 miles,
no problems.
Difficulties getting it into gear are almost 100% clutch-related
issues. This means that you are not releasing the clutch all the way.
How does it feel with the engine OFF?
The only exception to this is on cars that have been stored a very
logn 10 years) time - there are several sliding parts in the trans
that are above the level of the oil, and with lack of use will sieze
up over time. Often they will free up after it gets hot a few times.
Ken K ran into this on one of his restorals - after a few weeks of
driving some gears that were locked out started working.
The roll-pin issue mentioned only impacts one gear, second I believe.
Out of the five transmissions I've opened up, all but one had the
roll pin sheared off.
You aren't by chance still running 21-year-old 90-weight oil are you?
Use a good gear oil - I know some folks that swear by RedLine, but
I've not tried it. (Jim Reeve?).
Overall my guess is that you didn't bleed the line all the way yet,
and still have air in it. And if you are running old oil, you should definitely change it. Also look for a mis-adjusted or worn (aftermarket) adjustable link on the clutch pedal. You didn't mention that.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx>
wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxx>
> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > I would also like to know if the tricky reverse problem is
related to
> > problem with the clutch system or something else....has anybody
had
> success
> > using a synthetic lubricant in the transmission?
> >
> > Mike Townsley
>
> I know that the UN1 transaxl lused in the DeLorean (it is NOT an
R25 as
> previously stated. That is mearly the suffix which dictates the
gear set
> contained within in reguards to specific ratios) is fully
synchronized, but I don't
> know if that includes the Reverse gear as well. I've the same thing
not only on
> my DeLorean, but every other manual vehicle that I've ever owned.
Although,
> I only experience this "problem" when the engine is first started,
after the car
> has been parked. Not while active, such as when performing parking
> manuvers.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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