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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: alternator/volt gauge/a short....what's the score here
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Idle Speed
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: vacuum forming molds
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Storage
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Torque values and spark gaps
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: A/C System Questions.
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
10. So much work and nothing to show for it.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Storage
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
12. AW: Engine Compartment Light
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
13. How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to buff scratch
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. speedometer trouble
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
15. Volvo PRV to Replace Demo'd Delo Block?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. removing fuel line pressure
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Car won't stay on follow up -- Fuel Pump
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. ebay/paypal Warning!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: AW: Engine Compartment Light
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
20. RE: Idle Speed
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 21:57:43 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: alternator/volt gauge/a short....what's the score here
Dani,
The ground problem ( black wire ) or the hot wire problem ( red ) could be
any where. It would take a while to go thru and check all them but the first
place would be from battery cables to the ground on the frame ( chassis )
and battery cable red ( hot ) to connector on the right rear pontoon in
front of the water bottle. Then check the cables going to and from the
starter solenoid. They could be just loose or dirty.
Run an extra ground wire from the ground post on the battery to the engine
block and then to a metal screw or something to the alternator and see what
happens. Be sure for safety to unhook the battery when cleaning & moving
cables around.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: TalksToGod [mailto:5n-@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 3:19 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
I am having a tough time with my DeLorean's electrical system.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:04:27 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine Compartment Light
Knut, The reason is some of the parts are not worth fixing because they are
not of the highest quality or poor construction by the maker. ( Not
Delorean ). Yes, John wanted a car to last 20 years and it has, but why use
NOS parts if they are prone to fail when you can buy new and improved parts
that are bolt on replacements.
Just my 2 cents
John
-----Original Message-----
From: ksgrimsr [mailto:knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 8:31 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine Compartment Light
The engine compartment light switch is part number 101629. If it is
broken, replace it with a new one that is not broken.
Listed as in-stock on the DMC web site for under 20 bucks.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 05:43:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed
PRV *IS* extremely vacuum sensitive. Trust me. Test spray your
*ENTIRE* block, including oil pan, front and back, with carb cleaner
and you'll find leaks in places you never expected. Plus is great way
to clean off all that oil & other detrius. Are access covers for cam
bearings and vacuum take offs on backside of engine so don't neglect
there. I make extensions for the tube from tiny size vacuum hose to
better reach such places. Don't forget to check mating surface of cold
start tube, idle speed motor take off, and two vacuum take offs under
upper air assembly. Stick hose into dead space under intake manifold
to test ported vacuum switch and bottom side of intake O rings.
To isolate vacuum leaks from misbehaving idle speed system I'd
recommend temporarily disabling it. eMail me direct for copy of
procedure: brobertson(at)carolina.net. You might find you prefer car
without it. IMHO system does not age well. Even purists have to agree
that ability to run engine manually is important diagnostic tool if
nothing else.
Was thread some time ago about endemic DeLorean idle speed wandering.
I disagree completely. Properly tuned and tight engine should idle
100% smooth and constant, idle speed motor and Lamda notwithstanding
(even more so without them!). Mine is ALMOST there -- think a new
timing chain cover seal for crank shaft will do it. Then #5939 will
FINALLY idle like a Lincoln...
Did you see John Hervey's post Re: vacuum leak through oil dip stick?
Is true, believe it or not (try it on a running tight engine).
Darndest thing I've ever seen...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Dave,
> Did you know that the oil dip stick is supposed to be sealed as best
you can
> down into the holder. Potential vacuum leak also.
> The idle speed motor can be tested by putting a 12 volt common wire
on the
> center conductor and then touch the red wire or hot to one of the other
> terminals. Then you can see the valve inside opening and closing.
> It's better you take it off to do the test.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: doctorDHD@xxxx [mailto:doctorDHD@a...]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:41 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Idle Speed
>
>
> I had a small oil leak, that seemed to be coming from the right side
valve
> cover gasket so I cleaned off all the oil and tightened a few valve
cover
> gaskets. The leak seemed worse but the valve cover gasket was dry.
The oil
> was
> coming from a "hole" in the upper left hand side of the right timing
chain
> cover.
> I quickly figured out that this "hole" was for bolt that I was
missing ever
> since I bought the car last October! I put a bolt in, snugged it
down and
> viola, no more leak. I drove the car and notice something very
interesting.
> It
> now idled smoothly at the 750 rpm it was supposed to. I was
ecstatic. So
> all
> this stuff about the DeLorean PRV being so sensitive to any vacuum
leaks was
> true I said to myself. When I got the car home the leak was fixed
but while
> the engine was running I touched the wires going to the idle speed
motor and
> all of a sudden the idle speed came back up to its previous state of
rolling
> up
> and down between 950 and 1200. It idles fine with the idle speed motor
> disconnected. Is this a bad ECU? What is the best way to trouble shoot
> this?
>
> Dave & 6530
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 05:50:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vacuum forming molds
DeLorean Houston can about build complete car from a box. Check their
website (http://www.delorean.com) for whatever you're missing. Have
noticed Rob Grady (http://www.pjgrady.com) lists some interior
fittings in different shades etc, so check him too. Production never
came anywhere close to exhausting original inventories.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxx>
wrote:
> I am amazed to see how many plastic parts on our D's were vacuum
> formed, such as the battery access cover one of my D's is missing.
> Does anyone sell these parts new? Does anyone know what happened to
> the production molds that these parts were made from? I have a
> plastic vacuum forming business, and thought about making a couple of
> molds but if they're available, I won't waste the time.
>
> John Salva
> VIN 5326 & 1383
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:13:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storage
In the bad old days fuel tanks were made of carbon steel, with steel
pick up lines. Rust could be big problem (ask anyone with rusty tank
how often they change fuel filters). Only thing to rust in a DeLo is
pump boot support bracket, stud & nut holding down baffle, and perhaps
pump housing itself.
Rubber is another story. Can you think of worse place to store your
rubber items than a gas tank? Even people with roadable cars need to
be vigilant to check condition of pick up hoses etc.
Could fuel distributor be a problem? Mine is aluminum, but I think
stock were steel or iron. John Hervey has pic of rusted one on his
website. Might be worth removing and pickling.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Put fuel stabilzer in it, RUN IT to circulate the stabilizer into the
> system, then drain the tank. The parts inside the tank hold up better
> in no gas than in stale gas. Condensation is the normal reason given
> for storing cars with a full tank, this is not much of an issue with
> a plastic tank. I may get some argument on this but I still believe
> empty is better.
>
> Dave Swingle
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> > I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to
> sit for a
> > while. .... I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the
> tank. It is about
> > 1/4 full. The next time I pull the car out will probably be for
> Pigeon
> > Forge. Will fuel stabilizer do the trick? ]
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 03:48:14 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
You need to buy a multimeter, or at least a voltmeter. First make sure
that the alternator is outputting an appropriate voltage. You can do
this by measuring between the (large wire) output terminal at the
alternator and ground (the engine block). If this isn't AT LEAST 13
volts, then you have an alternator problem. Normal running alternators
output about 14 or 14.5 volts. If yours is not in this range then you
may have a regulator or alternator coil failure. These can both be
replaced if there is a guy in your area that can/will do it. If the
voltage is OK then you follow the power wire for a drop in voltage.
Check from the alternator to the jump-start post (right side of engine
compartment), Also check the power connection behind the black cover on
the rear right of the engine bay. I had a loose wire in there once.
Jim
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:18:35 -0000 "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx> writes:
> I am having a tough time with my DeLorean's electrical system. The
> case is- my regular Motorolla alternator is producing only 10.5
> volts
> shown on the gauge constant. Constant meaning-When I am to put on my
> headlighs or my fan (heat/AC) the voltage will drop down. The
> problem
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 00:49:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Torque values and spark gaps
what i really needed was that values for the fuel
distributor.
jordan 11613
--- John Hervey <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Be carefull even on the torque values. You might
> find thats to much. Use a
> 3/8" drive and snug the plugs down and then give it
> a little lock down.
> Usually that's enough. Threads could be striped if
> to much torque.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jordan rubin
> [mailto:nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:50 AM
> To: dmcnewsgroup
> Subject: [DML] Torque values and spark gaps
>
>
> Hello all:
>
> The Delorean book isnt highly informative. This
> is what Ive managed to grab out of it for this
> weekends project. Some are hard to read though so I
> need to be sure.
>
> SPARK PLUGS
>
> TORQUE 13-15 FOOT LBS
> GAP 0.024-0.028 IN
>
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:48:22 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
ding with
> . I was considering the purchase of a 150 AMP
> alternator from Specialty, but if I can fix my current problem, I
> could really use the save of almost 300 dollars. Alternator has new
> brushes etc. thanks again for the help guys--Dani
Hi Dani,
The D-150 alternator from John Hervey (SpecialT Auto) solved my
alternator/charging problems. It's definitely worth the money.
Before, my car had many of the same symptoms you described. Now, it's
got plenty of juice, even at idle with everything turned on. The
gauge now reads about halfway between 13V and the next line up at
cruising speed, and just above 13V at idle. No more stalling at
traffic-lights when the A/C and fans are on. I know the D-150 isn't
cheap, but it's awesome, in my opinion.
Richard Rowe
5853
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 01:49:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A/C System Questions.
I had my low side hose replaced for about 100.00, The proper hose usually sells by the inch. It was done by a local A/C shop and they had one of the fittings in stock. The other one (the one that goes to the compressor) was cut off of my old hose, they pressed a standard fitting onto the end of the hose and then welded my old one to that one. Everything has worked fine since.
Jonas
3543
therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
Right now, I'm gearing up to repair my A/C system, and have a few
questions that hopfully others here who are more familiar with this
area may have answers to.
1. What are the lengths/specs of the High pressure, the Low pressure,
and the Adaptor hoses? $170+ for each hose is kinda expensive, and
I'm not exactly thrilled by the prospect of replacing my existing
hoses, with more 22+ year old hoses for that price. So a nice price
comparison to having new barrier hose punched for my car is a
tempting alternative. Even if I had 50' of hose @ $5 a foot, it's
still more economical.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:19:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: So much work and nothing to show for it.
Hello all:
A saturday working on a delorean in Germany,
Today started off great. Had a reserved lift and bay
at the autoshop at panzerkaserne. I was all ready to
remove the air/fuel unit when elvis pointed out that I
didnt have those copper washers that go on the fuel
distributor, i only have 12 new ones for the fuel
injectors which is not enough for the distributor.
Drove to ATU, they didnt have them either. drove out
to leonberg to the Bosch shop. got there at 12:20.
They closed at noon. Only in Germany!
Went back to the kaserne and bought a case of 10w40
from the american parts shop (open till 6).
Lost my spot for the lift and eventually gave up
waiting at 3pm. . drove home.....
so from 0900 to 1530 all i did was burn gas.
BTW i still dont have AC in the car so the noon
driving times werent fun.
I will be changing the oil and the sending unit
tommorrow morning. ill have to wait for next week for
the air/fuel unit removal.
Once again, if anyone knows the torque values for ALL
connections on the fuel distributor, it would be very
helpfull.
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 12:56:27 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storage
I have stored mine for nearly a year before but I filled the fuel
tank to nearly full - I wanted the fuel just below the boot - put in
good helping of Marvel Mystery Oil, ran the engine for a while hot
to be sure the oil circulated throughout. I disconnected the battery
and put on the cover and closed the garage door. Nine months later,
connected the battery, turned on the key, started it up and drove
it - I did flat spot the tires. No other problems though.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to
sit for a
> while. School is starting soon and I don't need to be paying
insurance on two
> cars. I drove the car to my parents house and completely detailed
it. I
> purchased some cinder blocks at Home Depot so the Yokohama's don't
get flat
> spots. (All fluids were changed including brakes)
> I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the tank.
It is about
> 1/4 full. The next time I pull the car out will probably be for
Pigeon
> Forge. Will fuel stabilizer do the trick? I just don't want to
ruin all the new
> fuel system parts I have installed. I wont be on a computer for a
week or two
> but I will read the posts when I return.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> 6286
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 17:46:40 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Engine Compartment Light
Why fix ?
It's a cheap GM switch, mainly used in Opel Corsa's of the first series.
Normaly I try to fix everything, but I wouldn't bother myself with a 2
dollar part.
Elvis
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The little
> strips of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now
the
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
> Dave & 6530
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 18:19:16 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to buff scratch
How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to
buff scratch
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 18:31:22 -0000
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
Subject: speedometer trouble
My odometer works but not the speedometer. When I first got the car,
neither worked. I replaced the angle drive and cables, and found the
lower cable was 1/2" short. If I hook a drill up to the lower cable
(to simulate driving) both the speedometer and odometer work. When
hooked up and driving, only the odometer works. They both operate off
the same cable don't they? How could this be? Help.
John
1383 $ 5326
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 19:29:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Volvo PRV to Replace Demo'd Delo Block?
Martin G: check me out on this one (or Darren B)...
Was in junk yard today getting dash clock for one of the Lincolns.
Close to donor car was a late model (1990) Volvo 760, so out of
curiosity I popped the hood. I thought PRV had fallen out of favor by
then, but this was like looking in a mirror. Not only PRV, but had
idle speed motor, microswitch, etc (horrors) and some sort of Lamda
type device (double horrors). Studied block very closely but could see
no external differences, other than bolt on accessories of course. If
original to car, PRV must have been in production at least through 1990.
BTW junkyard owner wants $200 for everything from transmission forward.
Late model 760's are very plentiful. In roadable condition only fetch
upper $hundreds to low $thousands (eBay). I'm sure flywheel is
different, but couldn't remainder of block simply be dropped into DeLo
with demo'd factory unit (overheat, death by storage, etc)?
Was under impression you had to find early 80's 760, which are rarer.
BTW: this is all academic. One more vacuum leak and my R30 should be
perfect (as perfect as a PRV can be...)
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 12:57:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: removing fuel line pressure
Hello all:
Forgot to add to the 1st email. Is there a good
method or removing the pressure from the fuel system
before removing the fuel regulator, or should i bring
a towel.
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 11:36:03 -0700
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car won't stay on follow up -- Fuel Pump
Here's the resolution to my car-won't-stay-on problem.
On Friday, I got the car back. We replaced the fuel pump on the off
chance that it was causing the problems (and because it looked like it
needed it anyway), and sure enough, that was it. I guess it was
working barely well enough to get the car started, but not enough to
keep it going.
Even so, we checked out all the electrical connections, hoses, etc.
that everyone was nice enough to suggest, so I'm sure there's nothing
else wrong (at least not in those parts :) ).
Thanks!
-- Joe
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 15:05:13 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ebay/paypal Warning!
[moderator note - posted as a friendly warning to our community. No followups necessary-dave]
The scammers are busy, never respond to a request by e-mail asking you
to verify your account, it's a scam. I got bitten by the eBay version
and my account was promptly taken over by someone in the UK. This
morning's version looks like it's from PayPal, it's not! Do not verify
any accounts sent to you for verification by e-mail. Keep your money to
fix up your Bricklin and/or DeLorean, don't donate it to scammers.
Les
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 21:53:11 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: AW: Engine Compartment Light
In a message dated 7/19/03 5:02:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
elvisnocita@xxxxxx writes:
> Why fix ?
> It's a cheap GM switch, mainly used in Opel Corsa's of the first series.
>
> Normaly I try to fix everything, but I wouldn't bother myself with a 2
> dollar part.
>
> Elvis
>
> >Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The little
> >strips of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now
> the
> >plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
Where can I find a Opel Corsa's
dealer or parts supplier in the Chicago Area? What is the GM Part # ? O hell
never mind I will just get it from Grady or Epoxy the old one
Ralph VIN 1606
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 18:56:44 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Idle Speed
OK, Even I have used Carb Cleaner to test for vacuum leaks.
But remember the warnings. Carb Cleaners are very volatile, poisonous
mixtures of Xylene, Alcohol, Acetone, etc., and they can even dry out and
deteriorate rubber with extended and/or repeated exposure.
Sometimes an old mechanics trick really is an old mechanics "TRICK". If he
sprays the injector seals, etc. with Carb Cleaner every time he works on the
car, he will eventually find the leaks he caused.
:-)
Just my 2 cents.
Gary
IN2TIME
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