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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Electrical Troubles
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Update on the 81 D.
From: enid maldonado <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Who's got the most?
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
4. HOLY DMC!!! - Storm blew car canopy off car, scratches, and other misc
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Update on the 81 D.
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. The Light
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. DMC found
From: "sharkywtrs" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Wow! Is that a Bricklin?
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Update on the 81 D.
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Update on the 81 D.
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Torque values and spark gaps
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
12. vacuum forming molds
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
13. Engine Compartment Cover
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
14. Engine Compartment Light
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:04:15 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical Troubles
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie Golden <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> ... It'll show 10.5 volts on the gague, and read almost 14
straight from the battery.
If the voltage for the same rail is different at two different
places, then you have a voltage drop from the one place to the other.
Voltage drops can be due to a number of factors including:
1) Current draw through the interconnect is high relative to the
gauge of the wire carrying the current, resulting in a voltage drop
(and some heating of the wire). For instance, when the fans kick in,
there is substantial current being drawn and the measured voltage at
the fans may be lower than the measured votage at the battery (or at
the alternator) due to the IR voltage drop through the cable.
2) Interconnect suffers from resistive connections. This is often
the case with our cars where some of the terminals have corroded and
is especially a problem with ground connections. If you have a poor
ground connection, then you get a voltage drop across the ground
connection resulting in the effective voltage being seen as less. I
believe the ground connection for the dash is on the driver's front
frame (I think you can see it with the driver's front wheel
removed). A lot of other high-current circuits also get their ground
from the same point including the lights and the fans. If the ground
connection is not good, then you'll get a voltage drop across the
ground connection resulting in the effective measured voltage
dropping correspondingly. There's also the main battery grounding
terminal in the rear of the car to worry about as well.
If the voltage for the same rail is different in two places, then
you should ask yourself why that's the case if they are electrically
connected.
Knut
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:19:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: enid maldonado <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update on the 81 D.
We have started to get a better idea at the problem. The car will run with gas input. IF gas is not fed to the car while it is reving (I did not do this - the owner told me this is what he did), it will die. As long as gas is being pumped into the Delorean while it is running (I'm talking a little can - not gallons at a time), it will rev and stay alive. When that little bit of gas runs out, the car flatlines. So far I have had people tell me
1. Could be the carberator needs a good cleaning
2. The fuel lines are clogged.
3. The whole fuel system needs to be taken apart and cleaned.
An interesting project to say the least; there is a garage in Mobile,AL (The car is in Pensacola, Fl) that seems to work well on the Delorean from what 1-2 Delorean owners have told me. If me and my friend (the one who built his Delorean from scratch) can't figure it out, we'll probably take it to Mobile. I hesitate to take it to any of the 5 Delorean sites in GA, TX, or CA - because I know I don't have that kind of money. Does anybody know how much those specialty Delorean-HQ'd mechanic shops charge to work on a Delorean (hourly rate)? Heh, one day at a time ;).
---------------------------------
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:19:13 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Who's got the most?
I have had up to 5 but am down to three right now and will be purchasing
another one this weekend I hope so I should be back to 4 by Monday.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 02:59:43 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: HOLY DMC!!! - Storm blew car canopy off car, scratches, and other misc
Big storm one night, wife looks out the window (2 am) where the
10'x20' car canopy is. "You're tent is gone.." HOLY @#$ We dont'
ahve a garage at this house. I had that canopy tied to 2 trees
screwed in boards and staked into the ground 8 times. Anyway the
tent flew up and flipped over, lucky i jsut got 1 small ding/dent
right above driver side black trim on the door and a 8" smudge-small
scratch in front of the driver side vent between the door and the
back window. My questions:
1) What grade sand paper or whatelse can i use to take away the
scratch/smudge away.
2) I need to change clutch fluid , how much dot4 do i need?
3) I need to change coolant, how much do i need?
4) I need temp sensor, auto zone have it or special order?
5) Anyone have side air scoupes?
6) how does one know if they need brake calipers
It's a 17k miles, 81, in good running condition.
Thanks my dmc brothers.
steve
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:59:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Update on the 81 D.
If you think a DeLorean is carbureted with a Lotus engine, I think you need to hold off on buying a one for a little bit, until you can learn a little more about them. Buying a non-driveable car when you no absolutely nothing about the mechanics of these beasts is totally masochistic in my opinion... unless you have obscene amounts of money to pay someone else to entirely restore it, like DMC-Houston. With your knowledge of DeLoreans right now, you'd have a tough time keeping a decent one running.
So while we're at it let's clarify some things about DeLoreans. They use a version of the PRV-6 engine. PRV stands for Peugeot-Renault-Volvo... the 6 stands for 6 cylinders. This engine was developed in the mid '70s for use in all three of those product lines. Many people simply refer to the engine as a Volvo engine... which is actually a misnomer. The PRV is more Renault than any of the three. They employ Bosch FUEL INJECTION... they're not carbureted. They use a Renault transaxle, (transaxle==transmission/axle as the car is rear engined) and have a Lotus designed frame.
As I said before I strongly urge you to hold off buying a DeLorean until you learn some about the cars. I read the DML for 2 years, and went to several meets, and met as many owners as I could before I finally bought mine. I'm sure this is the first DeLorean you've looked at, and you're excited... but you'll thank yourself if you hold off on this one. As far as I know, the going rate for mechanics in general is $80/hour... someone please correct me if I'm wrong. And don't think that any old garage can work on your car... this list is littered with stories of guys who have had damage done to their cars by amateur mechanics who don't know how to work on DELOREANS specifically. Just so you know, a new fuel system will be AT LEAST $1000 for parts alone. That's not to mention all the other things the car will need after sitting like it has, and the various upgrades that are essential to keeping these cars on the road now. The general rule with DeLoreans is this- Price of Car + The Cost of Repairs == $20,000. This rule really doesn't always hold true. In fact, the cheaper/worse condition car you buy, the MORE you're going to spend on it in the long run. There's also a saying around here that goes "what's the difference between a $15,000 DeLorean, and a $20,000 one?" the answer "about $10,000." I'm not trying to discourage you from buying a DeLorean, I'm just trying to scare you into doing your homework. If you don't, you'll end up spending 3 times the money and time restoring the car... and you'll likely give up before the car is completed. You CAN own a DeLorean on a tight budget... you just have to be very educated in the cars, and know which one to buy. I'm a good example... I'm a 21 year old college senior, and I can afford to own one. Good luck though on whatever you decide, and remember, we're here to help you! :-)
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 03:59:03 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Light
Today, I saw the light at the end of the tunnel.
After months of questions and fumbling along, mired in my own
ignorance, almost causing more damage than I fixed I finally got the
engine to catch today.
It's definitely flooding. I could smell it from the exhaust, unburned.
I am absolutely certain that with a new fuel distributor, minor
timing and probably some minor CO adjustments I will have a well
running engine.
That may sound like a lot but considering I had the engine 75%
disassembled in my driveway, tranny removed etc. etc. I'm really
moving along.
Rich
#5335
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 04:08:36 -0000
From: "sharkywtrs" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC found
Hello all;
I have a friend here in Pensacola who is looking for a De Lorean.
Recently he found one for a very nice price. I have not had a
chance to go over the car yet, but as usual, this car has sat for
some time. The owner says that it has been started, but needless to
say I'm expecting a full fuel system restore. Here is the
question; the owner says that the car will start, but if he doesn't
pour a small amount of gas into the tank it will stall. Now, I'm
going on the assumption that the owner understands how the fuel
gauge works and that it's just not out of gas. Any ideas?
Scott
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 00:27:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Wow! Is that a Bricklin?
Hi,
I am a new owner, and I adopted my D last October and I'm finally restoring it. Last thing I'm going to do is have the white paint stripped.
When I towed it home on a flatbed, I went to a pit stop , I heard people whispering, wow what is that, a Lamborghini, oh I don't know. They were really excited and trying not to act like they were looking as I passed by.
On my way towing my D to the Repair shop last week, I had to stop at a gas station, my husband said, "Look, there's a fan of the car" The elderly gentlemen, gazed all around for quite some time and finally said, "What is it , a Pantera?" Hubby said, "A DeLorean , but it's painted, it's supposed to be stainless steel". Guy says, " Uhhh.... oh, well I guess it would be cooler with white paint wouldn't it be absorbing more heat with stainless steel?" I said, It's was originally stainless steel . He walked away confused.
Rita
>supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Heh...last time I went on a road trip I was discussing my desire to
>buy a De Lorean of my very own, and this guy was saying how it's
>such a bad car because 'with all that aluminium body and a steel
>frame there's no way it can move with just 130 hp'. He didn't
>believe me when I corrected him until my friend goes 'Dude, this kid
>know what he's talking about. He's been looking this stuff up for
>forever'.
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 01:47:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Update on the 81 D.
So far I have had people tell me
>
> 1. Could be the carberator needs a good cleaning
Who on earth told you that? The DeLorean came with
Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection,thus it has no
carburettor.Unless of course someone has swapped the
motor for an engine with a carby.
You are right about the fuel system needing to be
taken apart.Count on replacing most of the system.
Even so, $4500 seems very cheap even for a car in that
state.Most of the cars for that price seem to be in
boxes.
Good luck
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.
>
> 2. The fuel lines are clogged.
>
> 3. The whole fuel system needs to be >
> An interesting project to say the least; there is a
> garage in Mobile,AL (The car is in Pensacola, Fl)
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 05:38:28 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Update on the 81 D.
I'm curious, what shops in Mobile work on Deloreans?
-----Original Message-----
From: enid maldonado [mailto:hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:19 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Update on the 81 D.
....
An interesting project to say the least; there is a garage in Mobile,AL (The
car is in Pensacola, Fl) that seems to work well on the Delorean from what
1-2 Delorean owners have told me. If me and my friend (the one who built
his Delorean from scratch) can't figure it out, we'll probably take it to
Mobile. I hesitate to take it to any of the 5 Delorean sites in GA, TX, or
CA - because I know I don't have that kind of money. ...
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 04:49:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Torque values and spark gaps
Hello all:
The Delorean book isnt highly informative. This
is what Ive managed to grab out of it for this
weekends project. Some are hard to read though so I
need to be sure.
SPARK PLUGS
TORQUE 13-15 FOOT LBS
GAP 0.024-0.028 IN
I believe the plug info is right
The were also some numbers for values for different
sized bolts that i wont complicate this email with.
As a reference I used the following diagram from Nick
Pitello
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelhoses.htm
I imagine 1 through 6 will have the same torque value.
Incidently the line feed and return have no number in
the diagram, i need that too.
Does anyone know these values. Id hate to break the
car over something so trivial as torque value.
thanx
jordan 11613
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 12:28:53 -0000
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
Subject: vacuum forming molds
I am amazed to see how many plastic parts on our D's were vacuum
formed, such as the battery access cover one of my D's is missing.
Does anyone sell these parts new? Does anyone know what happened to
the production molds that these parts were made from? I have a
plastic vacuum forming business, and thought about making a couple of
molds but if they're available, I won't waste the time.
John Salva
VIN 5326 & 1383
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:12:16 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Engine Compartment Cover
I just found the "triangular eyebolt" and bushing that is part of the engine
cover lock. Is there a best way to reinstall the knurled bushing back into
the engine compartment cover?
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:14:47 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Engine Compartment Light
Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The little strips
of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now the
plunger just pushes the switch apart.
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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