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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Moment of Truth
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Radiator bleed barb
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Key codes for two key cars
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. DMC Shops
From: "sharkywtrs" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
5. Re:Key Cutting
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Helicopter
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Comments from a British Taxpayer
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
8. Re: DMCH struts
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: DMCH struts
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: What Tires to get??
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Moment of Truth (second response)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DMCH struts
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Looking at a new CD radio--need advice
From: "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Moment of Truth
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Moment of Truth (third thought)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Overheating
From: "vin2105" <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Looking at a new CD radio--need advice
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
20. RE: Helicopter
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Moment of Truth
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Welding the head
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re:Key Cutting
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 03:13:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Moment of Truth
Pigeon Forge is a year away...
One tooth makes all the difference in the world. Translates into a LOT
of rotor travel (how many teeth are on the worm gear? Divide 360 by
that and you'll see what you're up against). Despite my best efforts,
got mine one off (removed to better access heater core take off). Seem
to remember something interfering with far swing in direction I needed
to go. Pulled upper air assembly off AGAIN (by that time was getting
real good) and reinstalled one tooth over. Success.
You can diagnose with timing light as you rotate engine with starter
motor only. Slow, but it does work. Either jump the solenoid, or con a
willing family member into turning the key.
You did re-index TDC cylinder #1... (stock PRV has two marks on crank
pully so it doesn't matter which stroke you were on).
BTW: How did you finally remove crank pully? I've got to replace seal
in timing case cover so mine's coming off too.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok kids, here's what's happening:
>
> I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds and
> battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the
> starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little wire
> for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
>
> By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long.
>
> The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the timing
> as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once or
> twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a feeble
> sort of back fire a couple of times.
>
> I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the chains,
> pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, and
> nothing was interfering. The distributor though...
>
> Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor in the
> distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then installed
> the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were still in
> line.
>
> Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am I an
> entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing in
> the distributor?
>
> The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids.
>
> Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon Forge!
>
> Rich
> #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 03:43:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radiator bleed barb
Re: removing radiator bleed line:
If you've got an original radiator, be VERY gentle removing bleed
line. Is a thin walled plastic barb, brittle with age and heat. I'd
recommend cutting hose rather than trying to pull off intact (cooling
hoses tend to weld themselves to fittings). Despite my best efforts,
ended up cracking mine. If you suffer same, don't worry is repairable.
Plastic side channel alone won't hold a brass barb, but you can tap
entire way through (is only 1/2" deep at that point), glue in a nipple
pipe with access hole drilled into side (be sure to match hole with
radiator bleed galley! Blow air backwards through it -- also ensures
adhesive isn't fouling hole), seal one end with a cap and attach barb
to other. To ensure mine stays put, and water tight, spent one week
layering JB Weld over repair. Make a form from card stock and the
epoxy comes out looking pretty good (vs looking like a melted candle).
Never did like radiator bleed line dropping down so sharply, or
venting back into main coolant pipe, so I rerouted mine horizontally
to a Tee in heater core return line (junction pipe was replaced with
hose).
Biggest question Re: cooling system problem -- what is your location?
If you live in an area with high mineral content in the water, or if
you use a surface well, do not ever use straight tap water in a
cooling system. Deposits WILL thoroughly clog it up, especially
radiator and thermostat.
Other Bozo No-No is Stop Leak. Evil stuff. Super glue for tiny
radiator passages -- what will they think of next?
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 03:54:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Key codes for two key cars
Did two key cars use same blank for each? Don't know if mine is proper
two key or if ignition cylinder was replaced with compatible grooves but:
With different keys now for ignition and doors (actually just one
double cut key), I only have one X code under driver headliner.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> There is usually a code written above the driver's side door headliner.
> It is between 7,000-9,999 and usually has an X at the end.
> That the ignition code for two-key cars and the only code for
one-key cars.
>
> If you have a two-key car... I don't know. The only one I've tried
so far
> only had the door code. Never could get a key cut for that one. I've
asked,
> but no other two-key cars owners have told me if they have both codes
> written up there or not. Or if there is an ignition code anywhere else.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Paine [mailto:mpaine@t...]
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 7:18 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] Ignition switch cross reference?
>
>
> how cfould I get the codes to get my key code cut? I have 2 blanks from
> PJ Grady I just haven't cut them yet as the shops her edo trace cuts
> only.
>
> > Does your key work good? I worn out key will bugger up the switch and
> > the
> > locking pin.
> > Don't just get a trace-copy done, get a code-cut key, original specs.
> > Some one on the list does them... let's see. Who was that? Oh, yeah
> > it's me.
> > I'm not shilling for myself: there's not a scent (or is that cent?)
> > of
> > profit it in for me yet.
> >
> > As for cross-reference; I believe there are some Euro cars (Volvo?)
> > that
> > cross-over. It may even be in the xref sheet. But I would get one
> > from the
> > DMC vendors-- it's worth it.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: My House [mailto:BePositive2000@Y...]
> > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:34 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Ignition switch cross reference?
> >
> >
> [moderator snip]
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 04:14:35 -0000
From: "sharkywtrs" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Shops
Hello again everyone!
I am in need of a good shop to do some minor repair work on my DMC.
Mostly stuff that I could do, but just don't have the time to do
it. The one place I was recommended in Pensacola just didn't pan
out, and I had to make more trips there than was truly necessary to
get a very basic altenator problem taken care of. If anyone on the
list knows of somewhere within a 75 mile radius of Pensacola, Fl
please email me privately at dmc83n99@xxxxxxxx Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:28:27 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Key Cutting
I recently had my PJ Grady key blanks cut at Home Depot and not only do they
work fine but the guy that cut them realized that there was no SKU to cut
someones own blank so I got them gratis.
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:11:16 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Helicopter
I agree.
I have owned #5508 since April 1, 1966. Since then, I have logged over
90,000 miles and most of it is in New York City area and the radius of 100 miles
surrounding the city. I used my car daily and at times I have driven my car on
long trips that can be 1,000 miles per run (one way) and only to stop for fuel
and restroom stops. Many of these trips have been in good weather as well as
in the rain, snow, extreme hot sunny days and etc. I have driven my DeLorean
as I would as with any contemporary modern car and it can handle it.
So, on this point, what is the value of my car for me? For me, as long as it
support me as a vehicle as it was design to do -- To be road worthy at all
times and to be trouble free -- TO BE ON THE ROAD RUNNING!
Yes, I do get the normal wear and tear that all vehicles are subjected to,
but I do have my car properly serviced when the time is due, which includes
replacing or rebuilding parts when necessary. Remember, proper maintenance is a
MUST and yes, a "X" amount of money must be allocated for the maintenance as
well as for the up keeping -- just to keep it in tip top running condition.
This "X" amount is not necessarily as much to be spent and the stress that you
will encounter when you are stuck on the road, or when you discover all the
problems that will surface after long periods of non-usage.
As long as the electrical and some of the other "quirks" taken care of and
the updated are performed, I believe the DeLorean is NOT a troublesome car as
many owners complains it to be.
Bottom line??? If you have the time and money, do enjoy driving your car
when you can. For, if not now .... When???
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic. 9D NY
======================================================
In a message dated 7/7/03 10:32:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx writes:
--- miltdanfoss <d@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I may be loosing money by not keeping the miles low,
> but I am making
> up for it in the value of diving a fun car that is
> fun to look at.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Money is NOT everything!!! The DeLorean was built to
be driven. Frankly, the more you drive it the more
you learn to like it. And, the more you drive it, the
fewer and fewer glitches will come up.
To live the dream you must drive the dream.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:48:03 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Comments from a British Taxpayer
Being an owner of Bentleys for the last 31 years and as well as a "Life Time
Member" to the Rolls-Royce and Bentley Owners Club .... I believe the British
government should have saved both marques by supporting these two companies
that was that was once under their Empire. These two companies have produced
the British finest motorcars since early 1900s and they were always used in
England as well as abroad in every colony as a mark of respect and prestige.
After all, the Queen and her family still parade and ride in the several RR and
Bentley custom built for them.
If DeLorean and the DMC-12 was a success, can you imagine a member of royalty
driving a DeLorean? As far as I am concern, the DeLorean DMC-12 is a
motorcar of Ireland/England no matter what.... failure or success.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
=======================================================
In a message dated 7/7/03 10:33:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
We get a lot of that over here. Questions like "so how much of this car
do I own?" are fairly commonplace and get filed under the same heading
as "Flux capacitor jokes".
The standard response is to point out the many millions more the
government squandered on British Leyland. Ask them if they'd like to own
any car made by British Leyland, 20 years on.
Martin
DeLorean Motors UK
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:53:42 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCH struts
Dear Sam,
WHAT?
"that the struts are fine when to my knowledge no one ever said that the original
issue that people had did exist and had been corrected."
----- Original Message -----
From: Samuel
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] DMCH struts
Thanks for the information. When the original struts came out and a few
people had issues with them due to the slightly longer length, people
were told (in my understanding, i could have the details wrong) that the
struts are fine when to my knowledge no one ever said that the original
issue that people had did exist and had been corrected.
As a result the mis-information came around because of few knowing that
the original new struts were not the same new struts that you talk about
now. Everyone just talked about the new struts.
Samuel
James Espey wrote:
>I'd like to correct this bit of misinformation that has been going around.
>
>The new door struts sold by DMC (Texas) are NOT the incorrect length. Our
>new struts ($39.95 each) have been remanufactured exclusively for us to the
>original specification, from the original drawings. The only differences at
>this point are the black nitride finish on the shafts, and the ends are
>"screw-on" rather than crimped on.
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 00:13:04 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCH struts
Dear James,
Why don't we address the previous?
Just trying to be fair. ; - )
Thanks
Mike
"The new door struts sold by DMC"
----- Original Message -----
From: James Espey
To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; dmcnews ; dmcforum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 9:46 AM
Subject: [DML] DMCH struts
I'd like to correct this bit of misinformation that has been going around.
The new door struts sold by DMC (Texas) are NOT the incorrect length. Our
new struts ($39.95 each) have been remanufactured exclusively for us to the
original specification, from the original drawings. The only differences at
this point are the black nitride finish on the shafts, and the ends are
"screw-on" rather than crimped on.
Our previous supplier sent us a couple batches (about 50 or so) of struts
with a slightly longer screw-on end that resulted in them not closing
completely on certain cars (about 1 in 6 or 8, based on the molds used to
make the underbody, near as we can ascertain). We no longer use this
supplier for any struts on the car, or any other parts, for that matter. If
anyone has any of these longer ends, send me an email and I can replace them
for you.
The louvre and luggage compartment struts ($19.95 each) are also
remanufactured for us, now as well.
A complete six-strut set is $139.95, and these are the same ones that will
be available from our stockist in the United Kingdom (hopefully in August!).
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
http://www.delorean.com
> From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Reply-To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: 6 Jul 2003 12:49:31 -0000
> To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [doc] Digest Number 924
>
> Are the barells on the struts the right length (i.e. not DMC Houston ones)?
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 08:28:40 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What Tires to get??
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Dick Ryan
<deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> Don't overlook the Cooper Cobra GT's. Quiet and very
> nice ride. NOT racing tires - if that's what you have
> in mind - but great American made road tires.
>
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
I'll second that on the Cooper Cobra GT's. 2nd set of tires that
I've had on my car, with the first being Yokohama AVS
Intermediates (no longer manufactured).
In comparison, the Coopers have a lower speed rating
(112mph?), but hold up just fine. I've keept them @ 120mph+ for
20 minutes or so, and did not notice any chunking, cracking, or
other damage after stoping.
While treadwear is the same, the Coopers do have a lower heat
rating (B). Which is perfect to me. Yoko's would take too long to
heat up, and always had problems gripping in the cold. Unlike
my Coopers. If the grip is poor due to temp, or very oily
pavement, I've never had a problem heating them up. And it only
takes a second to two to burn them out to get them warm. Once
they're warm, they become very sticky. And when they get hot, it's
very hard to loose grip, either by accident, or by showing off. :)
Although I must say that the Yokos did appear to displace more
water. Apparent by how high I could shoot spray out from my front
wheels in comparison.
I also had a hellacious problem with trying to get Yokos to grip
properly durring emergency braking. Even in hot weather, with
dry road conditions, the rear end of my car would slide around
quite a bit. And twice I spun 180s when I was going over 50mph.
With the Coopers, it's night and day. You will still feel the inertia
of the rear trying to swing, but the car doesn't move, and I've only
had to move my steering whell about an inch or so to counter the
effects. Which was another interesting little thing I noticed. After
inspecting the road, Yokos would only lay down a minimal
amount of rubber, if any at all when braking. Where as Coopers
will lay down a fairly decent amount. It's almost as if the Coopers
will melt in order to preserve grip, but the Yokos would resist,
and just slide across the surface. I've since heard that some
folks don't like them, as they have a high plastic content in the
formula. But who knows. And I've also heard that if not balanced
properly, these tires will have a VERY short lifespan.
On the other hand, my car is now much more prone to wind
gusts on the interstate at high speeds (car@65+, wind
gusts@30mph+). But that could just be a problem with worn
suspension on my car. Wear and tear does happen after all.
I have also heard great things about the Pirelli's, and the
Michelin Pilot XGTs. When I first got my car, these were the tires
first reccomended to me (but at the time, Michelin was not
making anything that fit the DeLorean). So when it came time for
a new set, I made the comparisons, and went with Coopers.
Price was a factor with Michelins @ $115+, and Pirellis @
$130+. While the price may vary for you, I paid $68 for the fronts,
and $72 for the rears mounted and installed. Plus, I perfer the
RWL myself, and mismatched tire sets are a pet peeve that drive
me crazy. I've heard nothing but great things about the Pirellis,
and the mismatch is a perfect combination for the D as I've
heard quite a few times, from quite a few people. And since
they're all solid back, you shouldn't really notice. But it's more of a
personal thing for me.
Otherwise, if you're going to be doing quite a bit of sustained,
high-speed driving beyond the speed rating of the Coopers, then
I'd reccomend going for a more expensive tire. Otherwise,
Coopers are a great buy for those on a budget, and/or anyone
who commutes in their daily driver.
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 12:05:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Moment of Truth (second response)
Just re-read your post. If engine is honest to goodness backfiring
(ie: exploding in the intake), you're definitely a tooth or two too
advanced.
Before starting proper, I'd drop some light weight oil (like a
penetrating oil) into each cylinder through spark plug holes and let
it soak where rain water collected. Rings ARE steel against a steel
"liner" -- find that a great misnomer after seeing inside of your
block. "Liner" makes you think of a sleeve inside a bored cylinder...
Did you replace all ignition components?
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok kids, here's what's happening:
>
> I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds and
> battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the
> starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little wire
> for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
>
> By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long.
>
> The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the timing
> as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once or
> twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a feeble
> sort of back fire a couple of times.
>
> I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the chains,
> pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, and
> nothing was interfering. The distributor though...
>
> Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor in the
> distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then installed
> the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were still in
> line.
>
> Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am I an
> entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing in
> the distributor?
>
> The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids.
>
> Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon Forge!
>
> Rich
> #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 13:34:20 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Where did you get it?"
Some of the usual questions I get asked all the time include "How
many were made?" and "Where did you find it?". When someone asks me
where I found #17006, I tell them I found it in Baltimore. That's
enough for most people. A lot of people are surprised when I tell
them that there were almost 8,600 DeLoreans built. They think that
there were alot less. When someone thinks something is rare, its
natural for to ask where you found it.
No one ever asks me where I got my Passat either.
Brent Lundgren
83 #17006
81 #03049
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxx> wrote:
> So, she was a little girl.. But what the heck are you
> supposed to say when an adult asks that question?
>
> I think worse than the BTTF and Cocaine stuff, is the
> "where did you get it?" What a dumb ass question.
> What are they asking? they want to know who I bought
> it from? where the guy lived?!
>
> No one ever asks me where I got my Mustang!
>
> OK, rant over.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 09:47:52 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCH struts
Of the reading I have done, and the number of times I have seen people
mention or talk about issues with a pair of struts bending the ball
joint on the door frame, I dont not ever recall reading that the issue
had been corrected. All I ever read was that the new struts work, but
then other people with "new struts" had issues. From what James posted,
there were new struts (probably the ones that caused issues due to being
just slightly longer) and the new new struts that are correct.
The Atkinson Family wrote:
> Dear Sam,
>
> WHAT?
>
>
> "that the struts are fine when to my knowledge no one ever said that
> the original
> issue that people had did exist and had been corrected."
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 10:01:35 -0400
From: "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Looking at a new CD radio--need advice
Hi Patrick,
I recently replaced my Craig with a Kenwood KDC-MP822. It's an MP3
CD player, with a motorized folding control panel. I took a few
pictures at:
http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/stereo/
The worst part of the install is cutting the dash to accept a DIN
stereo. It may be less stressful to order a new dash panel with the
DIN cutout in place, but you have to paint the panel, remove/replace
the existing one, and spend an extra $150. I just took out my dremel
tool and went to town. I never plan on selling the car, so I'm not
worried about keeping it original.
The nice thing about the 822 (and it's relatives) is that the panel
can be adjusted in such a way that you can access the controls
without leaning forward. Definitely helps to keep your eyes on the
road.
One of my biggest complaints about most modern aftermarket stereos is
that they have too much going on. Between all the crazy displays &
curvy panels, it took me a while to find a stereo that just had
_usable features_ and a look that didn't clash with the dashboard too
much. Originally, I was going to go with a plain-faced Kenwood MP3
since they tend to be more flush with the dash than most other
stereos, but I liked the flip-down buttons so much that I went with
the 822. My other favorite feature is that it won't raise the
antenna unless you're actually listening to the radio (for us power
antenna folks)
On a side note, I have a complete Craig system for sale. Email me
for details :)
-Luke
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey there,
> Like many owners, I am not impressed with the original Craig
> radio in my '81 D. I plan on keeping it for car shows, but the
> reception is pretty bad (I also plan on getting a power antenna-the
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 14:46:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Moment of Truth
If you think the timing is off pull the spark plugs and turn the
engine slowly by hand. Watch the valves, piston, and distributer on
one of the cylinders and see if all of the events occur at the correct
time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok kids, here's what's happening:
>
> I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds and
> battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the
> starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little wire
> for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
>
> By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long.
>
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 14:18:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Moment of Truth (third thought)
Thought about your situation some more on way to work:
Where are the valve covers? Unlike old domestic block, don't think PRV
will run without them in place (double check me on that Martin G). A
mere hair line gap on one of mine created unbearable vacuum leak.
Would be nice to watch valve train in action but don't think that's an
option.
In fact, ensure all gaskets etc tight. PRV is a mean lean air sucking
machine. You'll find vacuum leaks in the weirdest places. If I'm
reading tech manual correctly (same page Brother Maynard quoted in
original problem), even a loose oil pan will let air into engine.
Weird. If vacuum leak is bad enough, engine won't run.
During these initial phases you may want to bypass idle speed motor
and either crack throttle plates old fashioned way or use manual idle
circuit. No sense complicating issue with yet one more potential problem.
Fuel pump does not engage until engine reaches some RPM's beyond range
of starter motor (classic "hot start" problem). Jump it on at the
relay to ensure fuel supply is not an issue. If air sensor plate/fuel
distributor piston OK won't flood engine (let intake air alone move
plate).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok kids, here's what's happening:
>
> I bought . .
> Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am I an
> entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing in
> the distributor?
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 16:03:16 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Where did you get it?"
The most insulting question I get is:
"How much did you pay for it?"
I always tell people its not polite to talk about money, but they
keep repeating the question until I tell. How do other owners get
around this rude question?
Thomas
Bolt of Lightning #6921
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxx> wrote:
> "where did you get it?" What a dumb ass question.
> What are they asking? they want to know who I bought
> it from? where the guy lived?!
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 17:00:02 -0000
From: "vin2105" <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Overheating
Just went through this bleeding procedure on Sunday.
I had driven across town to get some stuff to spiff up the car for a parade this coming
week and as I got close to home I noticed the rear window was a little foggy on the
outside. As I turned on to my street I saw a cloud of steam rolling out the back.
Parked in the driveway and opened the engine compartment to find the heater hose
thats hidden under the distributor had a small split.
Spent the rest of the afternoon replacing the heater hoses and heater shut off valve.
Fortunatly, I had the hose kit from DMCH sitting in the garage and I was able to find a
heater shutoff valve that fit at NAPA. Not my first choice but it fits and works.
The heater hoses were the original ones and someone at the factory must have had a
wicked sense of humor. From the looks of things, they installed the hoses before the
body was mated to the frame. Where the hose connects to the pipe by the TAB, the
head on the clamp was installed facing up leaving no practical way to loosen it. Spent
a half hour with stubby .25 inch wrench loosening it a fration of a turn at a time.
I lost about a gallon and a half of coolant including what drained out when i took the
hoses off but after bleeding every thing is fine.
I'm glad it happened now rather than in the middle of the parade next week.
Phil
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 17:03:46 GMT
From: FSMinc@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Looking at a new CD radio--need advice
I have an inexpensive Kenwood ($190) cd player, but it is a vast improvement. I would recommend the kind where at the push of a button the face controls flip completely over to show instead only a flat black blank face (the display effectively disappears). Not only does this ward off theives but it keeps the car from looking modified.
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:17:40 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Helicopter
WOW, yours must be a pre-pre-pre production car. Didn't realize production
began in 1966. Typo?
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx [mailto:kayoong@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 10:11 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Helicopter
I agree.
I have owned #5508 since April 1, 1966. Since then, I have logged over
90,000 miles and most of it is in New York City area and the radius of 100
miles
surrounding the city. I used my car daily and at times I have driven my car
on
long trips that can be 1,000 miles per run (one way) and only to stop for
fuel
and restroom stops. Many of these trips have been in good weather as well
as
in the rain, snow, extreme hot sunny days and etc. I have driven my
DeLorean
as I would as with any contemporary modern car and it can handle it.
So, on this point, what is the value of my car for me? For me, as long as
it
support me as a vehicle as it was design to do -- To be road worthy at all
times and to be trouble free -- TO BE ON THE ROAD RUNNING!
Yes, I do get the normal wear and tear that all vehicles are subjected to,
but I do have my car properly serviced when the time is due, which includes
replacing or rebuilding parts when necessary. Remember, proper maintenance
is a
MUST and yes, a "X" amount of money must be allocated for the maintenance as
well as for the up keeping -- just to keep it in tip top running condition.
This "X" amount is not necessarily as much to be spent and the stress that
you
will encounter when you are stuck on the road, or when you discover all the
problems that will surface after long periods of non-usage.
As long as the electrical and some of the other "quirks" taken care of and
the updated are performed, I believe the DeLorean is NOT a troublesome car
as
many owners complains it to be.
Bottom line??? If you have the time and money, do enjoy driving your car
when you can. For, if not now .... When???
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic. 9D NY
======================================================
In a message dated 7/7/03 10:32:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx writes:
--- miltdanfoss <d@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I may be loosing money by not keeping the miles low,
> but I am making
> up for it in the value of diving a fun car that is
> fun to look at.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Money is NOT everything!!! The DeLorean was built to
be driven. Frankly, the more you drive it the more
you learn to like it. And, the more you drive it, the
fewer and fewer glitches will come up.
To live the dream you must drive the dream.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:24:16 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Moment of Truth
Bill,
You aint been paying attention. :) I bought $350.00 worth of air
compressor, tank and tools. That's how I got the crank pulley off.
Folks are also saying I could be 180 degrees off because #1 piston is
TDC 2X for every one revolution of the distributor.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
wrote:
> Pigeon Forge is a year away...
>
> One tooth makes all the difference in the world. Translates into a
LOT
> of rotor travel (how many teeth are on the worm gear? Divide 360 by
> that and you'll see what you're up against). Despite my best
efforts,
> got mine one off (removed to better access heater core take off).
Seem
> to remember something interfering with far swing in direction I
needed
> to go. Pulled upper air assembly off AGAIN (by that time was getting
> real good) and reinstalled one tooth over. Success.
>
> You can diagnose with timing light as you rotate engine with starter
> motor only. Slow, but it does work. Either jump the solenoid, or
con a
> willing family member into turning the key.
>
> You did re-index TDC cylinder #1... (stock PRV has two marks on
crank
> pully so it doesn't matter which stroke you were on).
>
> BTW: How did you finally remove crank pully? I've got to replace
seal
> in timing case cover so mine's coming off too.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Ok kids, here's what's happening:
> >
> > I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my grounds
and
> > battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got the
> > starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the little
wire
> > for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
> >
> > By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for long.
> >
> > The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the
timing
> > as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once or
> > twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a
feeble
> > sort of back fire a couple of times.
> >
> > I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the
chains,
> > pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, and
> > nothing was interfering. The distributor though...
> >
> > Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor in
the
> > distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then
installed
> > the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were still
in
> > line.
> >
> > Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? Am
I an
> > entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the swing
in
> > the distributor?
> >
> > The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids.
> >
> > Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon
Forge!
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 14:21:58 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Welding the head
Has anyone attempted this? How did it turn out?
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:27:40 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Where did you get it?"
My stock response to this question is "The car sold for $25,000 new in
1981". They usually say "huh!", and wander away. The more persistent
ones come back with "How much is it worth now?". My reply to that is
that you can buy an essentially "factory-refurbished" car for around
$35,000, ranging all the way down to under $10,000 for a project car.
That usually satisfies them. Hope that helps.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "thomaspaulmccoy"
<thomaspaulmccoy@xxxx> wrote:
> The most insulting question I get is:
>
> "How much did you pay for it?"
>
> I always tell people its not polite to talk about money, but they
> keep repeating the question until I tell. How do other owners get
> around this rude question?
>
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Key Cutting
Beware of having them cut at Wal-Mart. I had one done
a year ago and it turned out fine. Went back a month
ago and they botched it. They offered nothing when
they destroyed my key except for cutting one of their
own brands and charging me for it.
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:34:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: "Where did you get it?"
I just tell them the bank still owns 1/2 of it :)
--- thomaspaulmccoy <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> The most insulting question I get is:
>
> "How much did you pay for it?"
>
> I always tell people its not polite to talk about
> money, but they
> keep repeating the question until I tell. How do
> other owners get
> around this rude question?
>
>
> Thomas
> Bolt of Lightning #6921
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy
> <malevy_nj@xxxx> wrote:
> > "where did you get it?" What a dumb ass question.
>
> > What are they asking? they want to know who I
> bought
> > it from? where the guy lived?!
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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