To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: ventilation behavior changed
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
2. Low-End Hesitation Update
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
3. Florida Meet
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Uh oh
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Low-End Hesitation Update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Roof scoop (was: Venting outside air over engine)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Window regulator (motor) poll!!
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Window regulator (motor) poll!!
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Roof scoop (was: Venting outside air over engine)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
17. Get medievil on your DeLorean
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Second plea for voltage on coil
From: "miltdanfoss" <d@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Second plea for voltage on coil
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Uh oh
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Second plea for voltage on coil
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 04:34:18 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ventilation behavior changed
The vaccume check valve for the brake booster also holds vaccume for
the vent flaps. If this isn't holding vaccume after shutting off
the engine, that would return the flaps to their resting position
(closed) everytime you turn off the car. And of course, they would
return to their vaccumed position after you restart the engine. How
far can you push down the brake pedal with the engine off?
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> Oops - I msread Adam's VIN - we are a bit farther
> away, but I DO still have the same "problem".
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 05:12:06 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Low-End Hesitation Update
Learned a great deal of information today.
I removed the entire intake manifold this evening. This is now the
third time I've done it since owning my car and I think I'm getting
quite good at it! But anyways, I separated the fuel distributor
from the venturi with the assistance of my uncle who is familiar
with Bosch Jetronic Injection Systems. He was surprised when the
plunger fell out from under it (no it didn't get damaged). I'm by
far no expert with fuel distributors, and I thought it was normal
for the plunger to come completely out, but my uncle didn't seem to
think so. (he normally works on Mercedes systems). Once thing we
noticed was a definate fuel leak from the plunger directly down into
the venturi. There was even a slight pooling of gas on the lower
housing. Anyone have and ideas if this is easily fixable (a simple
o-ring perhaps?), or do I need a new fuel distributor? Raw gas
dumping directly into the engine could definately be causing my
hesitation issues.
Cleaning the fuel injectors went well. They all opened at
approximately equal pressures, and running the cleaner through them
definately cleaned up the spray pattern.
My DeLorean is currently sitting at my uncle's shop with the intake
removed and many parts soaking in cleaner. I doubt this message
will post and I'll get replies in time for the continuation of the
work tomorrow morning, but you never know. If anyone has
suggestions, I'm happy to hear them. Thanks.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 08:57:12 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Florida Meet
Just to let you all know I've just finished uploading the pictures from the
Florida get together on 15th June onto my site, they can be found in the
Miscellaneous page
Cheers
Paul
#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 11:36:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh
It would act as if the head gaskets had gone - ie water in oil and air
in coolant.
Martin
cruznmd wrote:
> if I did shift
>something and I re-assembled the engine, and ran it what would the
>symptoms be?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:51:18 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
This would actually be counterproductive as under normal motion, the
louvers do an excellent job of dawing air up through the engine bay. The
Renault Alpines even mounted their intercooler along the back where the
vents are and still relied on the air being drawn up from the road.
We have a car in at the moment which did have head gasket issues. With
the self-bleeder installed it'd only overheat when standing still. On
the road it was fine thanks, IMO, to the air being drawn over the engine.
That car is now back together with reconditioned heads (all new valves),
Vovlo metering and ignition, and new timing chains. She red-lines
enthusiastically now. So much for "performance" coils.
Martin
#1458
#4426
DeLorean Motors UK
Michael T Twigger wrote:
>
>What if you reversed the right and left side louvers or some kind of mold
>to
>direct air from the side of the car into the engine compartment?
>
>just a thought
>
>Mark T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 06:16:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
Hello all:
Before I attack the main issue here i was
wondering if anyone know what this hose was for. I
found it disconnected under the passanger side dash.
I reconnected it but was still curious. picture
provided.
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysteryhose.jpg
For the main issue, I started working on the passenger
side mirror today. I have a nice instruction being
put together for it. but i did notice some
irregularities i thought i should point out and ask
about.
They are in the pictures provided below.
Mystery wire: Yellow wire with plug (disconn)
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywire.jpg
The next one addresses a mirror heater(possible)
Capacitors? and a vampire coupler.
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywire2.jpg
If anyone has any thoughts about the above please let
me know.
I should also state that ive tested the passenger side
mirror with a 12V hobbie battery. The motor works
fine.
I have a direction wiring diagram as well that I will
be posting for the mirrors in the near future.
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 06:53:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
Hello all:
For those who wish to test their possibly broken power
mirrors and find the manual somewhat vague. I drew
this up today as part of a later HOWTO but thought id
post it now for those who need it. I used a panasonic
12V 5ah lead acid pattery to conduct this.
Look here for the picture
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/deloreanmirrorwire.jpg
As usual, questions? comments? concerns?
Thanx
Jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:45:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
Refer to fig 72 on C:07:04 for more info about the "Liner Clamps". To
remove the nut on the pulley (which I personally have never done) I
would try getting a socket, a breaker bar, a piece of pipe to place
over the breaker bar and a large piece of 4x4. After putting all of
this together wack the pipe (which you placed on the breaker bar) hard
and fast with the 4x4. This should be enough to "shock" the nut off. I
wouldn't worry about having disturbed the liners. Eyeball the
"protrusion" of the liners. They should all be about the same. If any
are really sticking up then maybe you did disturb it. One of the
symptoms would include coolant in the engine oil. You really have to
read the Workshop Manual, especially when you are doing this kind of
complex work. There is a sequence of events that makes disassembly
more orderly. It is among the most accurate of the chapters becasue it
was derived from the Renault Manuals on the PRV engine. You also
shouldn't attempt this without having all of the special tools
available. Granted, in many cases you can manage without "special"
tools, but they always make the job easier with less chance of
damaging parts. If you can't get the tools in many cases you can make
them. The cylinder clamps come to mind as a very simple thing to recreate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Wow...I'm glad I didn't push too hard today then. I would have liked
> to have had this info earlier though. I've asked many questions on
> head gasket replacement and it never came up.
>
> Word is, if I ever want to get that pulley nut off, I'll need an air
> impact gun. Home depot sells one for $28.00 that makes 250 ft lbs of
> torque. Is that enough? Also, if I hook it to a rented compressor
> that makes 150 psi, is that enough to drive the impact gun to 250 ft
> lbs?
>
> And my final question today is: I don't believe I moved the liners
> while I was fiddling around w/the crank pulley today, everything is
> still flush and I didn't see anything move, but if I did shift
> something and I re-assembled the engine, and ran it what would the
> symptoms be? How concerned about this should I be? Do I now have to
> take the engine out and apart?
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > With the heads off you are supposed to install blocks with bolts to
> > hold the liners down. These are included in the special tool kit
> that
> > the dealers had. If the liners were to shift you would need to
> replace
> > the lower seals.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:58:36 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
Reeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaally???
Now isn't that interesting? How do I know that that isn't my problem
in the first place? The whole reason I'm taking the engine apart now
is due to those symptoms. The head gasket I've pulled right now shows
no detectable damage. If the other head also doesn't seem to show any
damage, should I suspect this?
Or do the lower liner seals not blow out like that?
-AND-
If these symptoms remain after I do the head gasket work, is it
possible to remove the engine, flip it over and just work all that
from the bottom? I wouldn't have to mess with the top half of the
engine would I?
I appreciate all the info,
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
wrote:
> It would act as if the head gaskets had gone - ie water in oil and
air
> in coolant.
>
> Martin
>
> cruznmd wrote:
>
> > if I did shift
> >something and I re-assembled the engine, and ran it what would the
> >symptoms be?
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 16:13:14 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
Picture one is a cooling hose for your blower motor. You should
wedge the end of it back into your blower motor. A passenger likely
kicked it off without knowing.
Second picture is a dummy wire in every door. It goes up to the T-
Panel and stops.
The 3rd picture is where the heated mirrors were going to be hooked
up, and the capacitors are for noise reduction of the mirror motors.
(electrical noise, not the mechanical noise your getting).
I dont know what the vampire coupler is, its been a while since I've
been in my doors, someone else will need to field that question if
thats on all cars or somthing a previous owner did to yours.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Before I attack the main issue here i was
> wondering if anyone know what this hose was for. I
> found it disconnected under the passanger side dash.
> I reconnected it but was still curious. picture
> provided.
>
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysteryho
se.jpg
>
> For the main issue, I started working on the passenger
> side mirror today. I have a nice instruction being
> put together for it. but i did notice some
> irregularities i thought i should point out and ask
> about.
>
> They are in the pictures provided below.
>
> Mystery wire: Yellow wire with plug (disconn)
>
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywi
re.jpg
>
> The next one addresses a mirror heater(possible)
> Capacitors? and a vampire coupler.
>
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywi
re2.jpg
>
> If anyone has any thoughts about the above please let
> me know.
>
> I should also state that ive tested the passenger side
> mirror with a 12V hobbie battery. The motor works
> fine.
>
> I have a direction wiring diagram as well that I will
> be posting for the mirrors in the near future.
>
> thanx
>
>
> jordan 11613
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:59:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low-End Hesitation Update
The plunger is a "precision fit" meaning it should be very
close-fitting or in other words it should not have dropped out. If the
plunger is that loose it would allow fuel to leak past it and "pool"
in the metering unit as you described. There is no way to repair this.
I would recommend you either have the unit reconditioned or replaced.
There are no seals inside that you can replace. You are not even
supposed to take it apart. Refer to D:01:16. Usually in a "dirty"
system the plunger sticks and is tight and difficult to remove.
Examine the plunger, someone may have "polished" it before you in an
attempt to "clean" it. Because of the precision fit it should NEVER be
touched with anything other than a rag with some cleaner (like acetone).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxx> wrote:
> Learned a great deal of information today.
>
> I removed the entire intake manifold this evening. This is now the
> third time I've done it since owning my car and I think I'm getting
> quite good at it! But anyways, I separated the fuel distributor
> from the venturi with the assistance of my uncle who is familiar
> with Bosch Jetronic Injection Systems. He was surprised when the
> plunger fell out from under it (no it didn't get damaged). I'm by
> far no expert with fuel distributors, and I thought it was normal
> for the plunger to come completely out, but my uncle didn't seem to
> think so. (he normally works on Mercedes systems). Once thing we
> noticed was a definate fuel leak from the plunger directly down into
> the venturi. There was even a slight pooling of gas on the lower
> housing. Anyone have and ideas if this is easily fixable (a simple
> o-ring perhaps?), or do I need a new fuel distributor? Raw gas
> dumping directly into the engine could definately be causing my
> hesitation issues.
>
> Cleaning the fuel injectors went well. They all opened at
> approximately equal pressures, and running the cleaner through them
> definately cleaned up the spray pattern.
>
> My DeLorean is currently sitting at my uncle's shop with the intake
> removed and many parts soaking in cleaner. I doubt this message
> will post and I'll get replies in time for the continuation of the
> work tomorrow morning, but you never know. If anyone has
> suggestions, I'm happy to hear them. Thanks.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 18:31:41 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof scoop (was: Venting outside air over engine)
On Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:56:27 -0000,
"therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
> Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
>> Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
> <SNIP>
>
> Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really cool!
> An aftermarket kit is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure
> that it could easily be adapted for the DeLorean. Especially
> if someone was to perhaps intergrate it into the T Panel
> on the roof (kinda like the S7).
IMHO it would look stupid, as the Saleen S7 was designed with
the intake up on top, so it could be moulded to fit.
On a DeLorean, unless you dis something to the doors too,
it would allways look like a hump.
At least then deciding on a name for your car is easy; "Quasimodo" :-D
> It's just that with limited visability thru the rear as it is,
> the pipe would hamper a bit of your vision.
The Saleen doesn't even have an inside rearview mirror!
<http://www.saleen.com/auto/S7/thumbFiles/ext_int/500ext_int/E500_S7front.ht
m>
As you can see it has two small windows behind the occupants, that's it!
When you look at the HUMONGOUS airbox that's not that strange either;
<http://www.saleen.com/auto/S7/thumbFiles/design_eng/500design/M500_S7engine
.htm>
> Maybe if you made the bottom section of the pipe clear...
> But I don't know if that would really even help with the angle
> of the eliptical shaped pipe
Who says the pipe has to be round or oval? IF you make a scoop,
there's no reason why you couldn't make a SQUARED pipe down,
sorta like making a second rear window (or maybe just doing that;
sandwiching two windows, so that in effect you have a "Fishtank"
with no top nor bottom that the air gets sucked / blown through.
But I stand by my first comment; Your DeLorean would become a hunch-back...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 11:41:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Doors electric mirrors and one other thing
Hello all:
I dont think the coupler is much of anything, i think
someone cut the cable and had to reconnect it. Doesnt
look like a factory connection.
The hose was reconnected shortly after the picture was
taken. at least now i know what it is.
Spent the better part of this afternoon going through
the wiring with the mirrors. FYI I ohmed out the
entire window switch and im making a little chart, for
those who wondered how it works.
It seems my mirror wiring is really screwed up. It
doesnt seem to effect the driver side but it does for
the passanger.
According to the Delorean manual P 229:
WHI/BRN on DRV side is connected to the PASS side P4
OHMS out GOOD!
WHI/PUR on DRV side is connected to the PASS side P3
Does not OHM out. BAD!
WHI/RED on the SWITCH connected to the PASS side P1
Does not OHM out BAD!
WHI/BLU on the SWITCH connected to the PASS side P2
OHMS out GOOD!
Heres another funny thing... the bad RED and PUR when
tested at the PASS side, OHM out. Like there shorted
together. Or cut off their circuits and looped on
each other. Has anyone ever seen this?
One more thing.. On the driver side connector.
PUR and GRN are shorted together
BRN and WHI are shorted together
Should I scream help here or should I imagine that
maybe this problem isnt worth tearing off both doors
and rewiring the whole thing.
Anyone experiance this before.
PS. The passenger side door panel has been opened
before. Has the trademark workmanship of someone who
had no idea what they were doing.
The black side panel was held on with black silicon
as someone broke all of those clips. (NOT FUR CLIPS).
Ill get new ones later. For now the panel is removed.
Fould the heavy plastic help together with..... yes
masking tape, what a great idea. I am happy to say
that it looks like the driver door was never opened.
I only have 1 door to repair.
thanx
Jordan 11613
--- Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Picture one is a cooling hose for your blower motor.
> You should
> wedge the end of it back into your blower motor. A
> passenger likely
> kicked it off without knowing.
>
> Second picture is a dummy wire in every door. It
> goes up to the T-
> Panel and stops.
>
> The 3rd picture is where the heated mirrors were
> going to be hooked
> up, and the capacitors are for noise reduction of
> the mirror motors.
> (electrical noise, not the mechanical noise your
> getting).
>
> I dont know what the vampire coupler is, its been a
> while since I've
> been in my doors, someone else will need to field
> that question if
> thats on all cars or somthing a previous owner did
> to yours.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin
> <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Hello all:
> >
> > Before I attack the main issue here i was
> > wondering if anyone know what this hose was for.
> I
> > found it disconnected under the passanger side
> dash.
> > I reconnected it but was still curious. picture
> > provided.
> >
> >
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysteryho
> se.jpg
> >
> > For the main issue, I started working on the
> passenger
> > side mirror today. I have a nice instruction
> being
> > put together for it. but i did notice some
> > irregularities i thought i should point out and
> ask
> > about.
> >
> > They are in the pictures provided below.
> >
> > Mystery wire: Yellow wire with plug (disconn)
> >
> >
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywi
> re.jpg
> >
> > The next one addresses a mirror heater(possible)
> > Capacitors? and a vampire coupler.
> >
> >
>
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/mysterywi
> re2.jpg
> >
> > If anyone has any thoughts about the above please
> let
> > me know.
> >
> > I should also state that ive tested the passenger
> side
> > mirror with a 12V hobbie battery. The motor works
> > fine.
> >
> > I have a direction wiring diagram as well that I
> will
> > be posting for the mirrors in the near future.
> >
> > thanx
> >
> >
> > jordan 11613
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 19:04:29 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window regulator (motor) poll!!
After two or so weeks of running this poll, only 37 people have voted
out of some 1200 subscribers to the DML. Why is the participation
level so low? I figure it's one of three things:
a) Either A LOT of people on the DML don't have DeLoreans
b) there's just as much apathy for voting here as there is in most
elections, or
c) people missed the original link
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/surveys?id=1107038
I'll close this out when it gets to 60 votes, which is still just 5%
of the active subscribers!
Sonny
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:03:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window regulator (motor) poll!!
I suspect that the reason the response is so low is
that the subject just doesn't excite most of us.
My windows work. That's all I care about. I think
they are aftermarket regulators, but I don't know and
I really don't know what that information would tell
you.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
--- sonnyvr2000 <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> After two or so weeks of running this poll, only 37
> people have voted
> out of some 1200 subscribers to the DML. Why is the
> participation
> level so low? I figure it's one of three things:
>
> a) Either A LOT of people on the DML don't have
> DeLoreans
> b) there's just as much apathy for voting here as
> there is in most
> elections, or
> c) people missed the original link
>
>
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/surveys?id=1107038
>
> I'll close this out when it gets to 60 votes, which
> is still just 5%
> of the active subscribers!
>
> Sonny
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:43:04 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof scoop (was: Venting outside air over engine)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxx>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> IMHO it would look stupid, as the Saleen S7 was designed with
> the intake up on top, so it could be moulded to fit.
> On a DeLorean, unless you dis something to the doors too,
> it would allways look like a hump.
> At least then deciding on a name for your car is easy; "Quasimodo" :-D
<SNIP>
Hmm... "Quasimoto", that's a new one to me! While I don't 100% agree, that's
pretty damn funny none the less! Reminds me of a conversation I had with a
friend at work about the "eyebrows" on my warped front facia. Me: "Yeah, I am
going to flaten it back to normal when I get the chance. But in the mean time, it
kinda gives the car a "personality" of sorts." Friend: "Personality? You're car
looks perpetually worried!" To this day, I've never looked at my car the same
way...
If done properly, the scoop wouldn't really look that bad, if not any worse than
the body kit some folks have installed in their cars (Note: this is indeed subject
to one's own opinion, and not meant to be derogitory to anyone with the body
kit, or roof scoop installed, or going to be installed). Lowering the rear portion
of the T-Panel would aid in giving the scoop a larger intake area. And most of
the plumbing would be hidden by the louvers. A low-profile intake scoop on
the roof wouldn't look too bad. Which brings me to the next section.
However, the cons of a roof scoop convinced me long ago NOT to even
bother considering installing one on my car.
1. The gullwing doors present quite a problem, as they take up most of the
roof of the car. So simply lowering the T-Panel presents an unsightly gap
problem that would need to be filled in. And since we're trying to keep the
intake low profile, that means we either have to restrict the intake size (kills
the intention of having the scoop altogether), make the scoop wider (that
would look REALLY goofy), or move the scoop farther back, off of the roof
itself. Astecticly, this isn't a problem, since the louvers would be modified to
accept the protrusion. But modifying the louvers is a whole other topic here.
2. We can't go back too far on the louvers, because then this may interfere
with the luggage rack.
3. Louvers or not, there is nothing to bolt the plumbing for a roof scoope to,
AND allow for reasonable sections of flexable pipe to isolate engine
vibrations.
4. You can't drive in the rain with this type of assembly installed.
So in the end, (opinions about appearace aside), a roof scoop isn't the most
feasable option available. The effort of it's construction far outweighs the
merits of it's intended purpose, to bring in higher volumes of cool air.
Especially with the option others have used to modify the side pontoon into an
"air bath" for incomming air.
...But I still think that it could potentially look good!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:50:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Get medievil on your DeLorean
Well, $350.00 bucks later, I've got a big honkin' air tank and
compressor in my basement and a set of air tools including an air
chisel, rachet and impact gun that can make 250 ft lbs of torque.
-Ahhhoooogahh- -Dive, Dive-
I finally found a 1/2" drive, 36 mm, -impact- socket at Advance Auto.
I have redesignated my basement Aux Machinery Room #1.
If I end up using a 6' cheater bar to get my crank pulley nut off
after all this I'm gonna cry.
Rich
#5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:13:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh
You cannot check this by eye! The gaskets are literally paper-thin -
even a disturbance of half a millimetre will mean having to take the
liner out. You can't expect it to seal again when you bolt the head
down. DO NOT RISK IT.
Martin
David Teitelbaum wrote:
> Eyeball the
>"protrusion" of the liners. They should all be about the same.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:19:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh
The gaskets on the liners do not fail. The only time they fail is if you
move the liners without the heads in place. If you're not careful, you
can do this when removing the head.... The trick is to knock the front
dowel down and break the gasket seal with a rotational movement rather
than lifting them off. On the car we're working on now (engine work now
finished) the heads were so bad the machine shop replaced all the valves
and re-ground the seats. You couldn't tell from the gaskets where the
problem was.
It's very important you get the heads faced before replacement - have a
machine shop skim off a few microns and check the surface is flat (not
warped). At the very least you have an excellent surface for the new
gaskets. Also have them pressure-test for cracks. If you have valves
replaced, you have to re-set the rocker clearances too - I hope you
marked which of your rocker arm sets were R and which were L :-)
Martin
cruznmd wrote:
>Reeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaally???
>
>Now isn't that interesting? How do I know that that isn't my problem
>in the first place? The whole reason I'm taking the engine apart now
>is due to those symptoms. The head gasket I've pulled right now shows
>no detectable damage. If the other head also doesn't seem to show any
>damage, should I suspect this?
>
>Or do the lower liner seals not blow out like that?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:57:00 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <d@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Second plea for voltage on coil
Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage on the #15 post on
the coil? It is marked.
One side is #1 one side is #15. You simply put the key in the
ignition and put in the on position, then measure voltage with black
lead on ground and positive on #15 on coil.
Mine is 7 VDC, my mechanic friend says it should be 12 VDC (or
battery voltage to be precise).
This would help me in my next troubleshooting step.
Heck, I'll even throw in a MARS MER-B "Opportunity" Launch Poster for
the first person to tell me.
Thanks,
Dan in Cocoa (3932)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 00:57:37 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Second plea for voltage on coil
See page 126 of the Technical Information Manual (Diagnostic Chart).
7 Volts is in spec. It should be 6-8 Volts. 8-12 Volts means a Bad
ground connection, 12 Volts means a Break in primary coil winding or
ECU module not conducting.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "miltdanfoss" <d@xxxx> wrote:
> Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage on the #15 post
on
> the coil? It is marked.
>
> One side is #1 one side is #15. You simply put the key in the
> ignition and put in the on position, then measure voltage with
black
> lead on ground and positive on #15 on coil.
>
> Mine is 7 VDC, my mechanic friend says it should be 12 VDC (or
> battery voltage to be precise).
>
> This would help me in my next troubleshooting step.
>
> Heck, I'll even throw in a MARS MER-B "Opportunity" Launch Poster
for
> the first person to tell me.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Dan in Cocoa (3932)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 01:16:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
If the motor had coolant in the oil and the motor had overheated I
would recommned pulling the engine down completely. You may not have
damaged the seals on the liners but the bearings could be wiped out.
Coolant in the oil makes for a terrible lubricant. At the very least
you just put more labor and a few more seals into the job. Better than
doing half a job and having to tear it all down again because you
didn't go deep enough the first time!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Reeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaally???
>
> Now isn't that interesting? How do I know that that isn't my problem
> in the first place? The whole reason I'm taking the engine apart now
> is due to those symptoms. The head gasket I've pulled right now shows
> no detectable damage. If the other head also doesn't seem to show any
> damage, should I suspect this?
>
> Or do the lower liner seals not blow out like that?
>
> -AND-
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 18:55:33 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Second plea for voltage on coil
> Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage
> on the #15 post on the coil? It is marked.
With 12v Battery voltage, I got 6v on the + terminal (15).
The resistor on the "firewall" drops the rest (and gets pretty hot).
Gary
IN2TIME
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 03:11:25 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
I appreciate all the good advice I'm getting on the head gaskets,
lower seals and pulley nut.
I'd like to respond to some points folks have made:
Warren @ DMCH did tell me not to disturb the liners, but like "Egon"
in GhostBusters all he really said was that it would be "Bad". Like
"Don't cross the streams". Now I have the answer and I'm glad.
If they are that sensitive like Martin says, I may have messed them up
when I pulled the head off. I did use a twisting motion, and didn't
just yank it off, but a millimeter? I may have done that. Who knows?
Special tools? Again, I refer you to Warren who's favorite phrase
whenever I ask him about special tools referenced in the manual is
"Pschaw...the French. What do they know?" He told me to get the nut
off w/an air impact wrench and that would not disturb the liners
because it won't rotate the engine. He did recommend that I
"fabricate" some straps, if I tried to get the pulley nut off by hand.
By and large, the bulk of the email I'm getting off list is telling me
to just put the dang thing back together and see what happens. :) I'm
also getting email from folks saying I've gone way further into my
engine than they ever have. That's frightening considering I've owned
mine less than a year. Am I just too dumb to know when I'm in over my
head?
As my other post says, I bought air tools. I'd like to offer my
condolences to those who had to use a 6' cheater bar to get their
pulley nut off. I set my air wrench to 260 ft. lbs and bang-bidi-bang-
it was off in 45 seconds. Now if I only had a pulley-puller....
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
