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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Steering rack stiction
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Steering rack stiction
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. ventilation behavior changed
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Air intake performance
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Torque question / Exhaust
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Rear view electric mirrors.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: ventilation behavior changed
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
14. Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Steering rack stiction
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: ventilation behavior changed
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Steering rack stiction
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. RE: Venting outside air over engine
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Uh oh
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Steering rack stiction
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:49:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
Hot is a relative term. The engine NEEDS to run hot to run
effieciently and all of the internal clearances are set so when the
metal of the motor is at operating temperature everything expands to
just the right size. To really know if you are running hot you need to
measure the temperature. Start off with calibrating the temperature
gauge. If the coolant is 220 then you can guess that the engine is
maybe 10 degrees hotter which would be normal. If it is having
detonation problems the things to look for are:
too lean a fuel mixture
initial timing off
vacuum advance or mechanical advance not working or not working correctly
Too much or too little or the wrong viscosity of oil
Make sure the coolant is a 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze and water
Wrong heat range spark plugs
Loose water pump belt
Bad pressure cap on header bottle
Too low an octane rating of the fuel you use
Finally the cooling system may not be carrying away enough heat from
the engine because of air in the system, blocked hose, bad fan,
plugged up radiater (air OR water side). The motor can live just fine
with the cooling system it has as long as it is working well. The
cooling system needs to be reliable with 15 PSI pressure in it to keep
the coolant from boiling.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Would love to route some air over my engine too, but don't think
> passenger side grill is the location. Engine intake really has to be
> connected to outside world. At 95 degrees, on a treeless highway, with
> hot freon in the condensor, and coolant above 220, my fuel mixture
> will predetonate (full throttle) if it's breathing under the hood.
> Guess hot air is last straw. Did clear up at higher octane (suggestion
> for summer driving).
>
> Even though our engine compartments are brutal, are plenty of DeLo's
> that have been driven 100,000 miles that way. Probably pushed the
> limits of heat endurance, but they made it. Given lack of options
> (other than Q panel vents, where would re-routed air come from?), best
> option may be to keep cooling system at peak maintenance and lubricate
> with heaviest possible oil. Driving on the edge.
>
> BTW: actual condition after purchase of cooling system in my
> advertised "maintained" car makes me wonder if a future rash of heat
> related failures, akin to recent TAB problems, is waiting.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I hear this a lot, regarding the mixture valve. I haven't driven my D
> > yet enough to know either way, but I have an idea about another
> > complaint that I've heard a lot of...
> >
> > Most people I talk to say the PRV runs hot. Most say they'd like them
> > to run cooler or have better airflow in the engine compartment.
> > Isn't there a way to turn at least that passenger side breather gill
> > for the hot/cold air mixture valve into some kind of vent that washes
> > air over the engine? Perhaps some kind of duct, or maybe even a small
> > electric fan with a diverter?
> >
> > I realize the engine doesn't see much air movement being mounted in
> > the rear, but at least the cover is well ventilated, and it has a lot
> > of room around it (relatively speaking). I'm suprised to hear folks
> > say it runs so hot.
> >
> > Also, for those who are interested, I've finally got all my
> > transmission brackets, clutch lines and pieces all hooked up. I can
> > finally get back to the engine/head work (and work standing up, thank
> > God) I hope to crank it over during the first week of July.
> >
> > Ever work on a car so hard, when you're done you're afraid to start
> > it up?
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335 -MD
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Roland Barmettler <roli@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Hi John
> > >
> > > > Now that I hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose
> > > > to the filter unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody
> > > > had told me earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air mixture
> > > > apparatus is useless. Have an opinion?
> > >
> > > I came to the same conclusion: if you drive mainly in warm weather,
> > > it's not only useless but a performance impact. I also removed the
> > > mixture valve (which decreases air flow diameter by about a third,
> > > if you have a look at it) and I'm very pleased with the result.
> > > Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
> > > just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
> > > there came more out of it when floored.
> > > So my mixture valve became a nice, cosy spot on the shelf in the
> > garage
> > > ;-)
> > >
> > > Cheers, Roland
> > > VIN 11512
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:56:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx>
wrote:
> Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
<SNIP>
Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really cool! An aftermarket kit
is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure that it could easily be adapted for the
DeLorean. Especially if someone was to perhaps intergrate it into the T Panel
on the roof (kinda like the S7). And I'm sure that it wouldn't be a problem to
install a snorkle thru the louvers. It's just that with limited visability thru the rear
as it is, the pipe would hamper a bit of your vision. Maybe if you made the
bottom section of the pipe clear... But I don't know if that would really even
help with the angle of the eliptical shaped pipe, or if a strong enough material
could be made that didn't discolor with the heat.
Then again, I'm just guessing about the visability problem, based upon my
own observations. I never drove a Fiero (let alone one with that intake), and
the problem of any visability might be overcome with one of those large,
curved rearview mirrors for trucks that JC Whitney and others sell. I've had my
eye on one of those for quite a while.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:36:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
Try spraying some lubricant on the rubber bushing where the steering
goes through the front bulkhead. You may have to replace the bushing.
You could also try greasing the tie rod ends and ball joints. Make
sure that all of the boots and seals are not cut or torn.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> My steering rack is sticking now that it's hot and I'm doing all of
my driving with the air on. It seems when the car is cool, the
steering performs flawlessly, but as it reaches operating temp on 80
degree days, the steering rack seems to heat up from the radiator and
begins to exhibit stiction. The wheel sticks where ever you tend to
put. I've pulled the pinion cap and loosened the spring tension on the
nylon slider by adding 2 custom paper gaskets to raise the pinion
cover, but it only delays the effect and makes the steering a little
looser when cold. It's been topped off with 90wt gear oil. Any one
else experience this feature? Any suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 04:02:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
According to Martin Gutkowski's PRV buddy, my R30 PRV (Renault) should
be timed 10 degrees. I've tried it at 13, but performance suffers.
Slightly retarded (by DMC standards) timing and a 40,000 volt spark
give me a pretty good jump off the line, even though displacement is
only 2.5 liters.
Fully agree intake air is important. That's why I'm going to replace
missing fresh air hose. Fords can breathe under the hood. DeLo's can not.
Re: predetonation at full throttle -- I have no provision for fuel
enrichment (other that CPR, which is ambient cold sensitive only). No
Lambda system whatsoever. My CPR has no vacuum chambers. Perhaps one
reason stock DeLo's don't predetonate is extra rich mixture at full
throttle. Other is spark. Not only am I timed later, but my advance is
taken BEFORE throttle plates (by Relault design). Even with the plates
wide open I probably ignite closer to top than stock DeLo's. FWIW, 93
octane took the clatter right out. After dark I went back to 89 no
problem. 5 hours of cloudless sun, continuous A/C (freon on the high
side is HOT), and intake air from under the hood got me (until I threw
a bottle of octane boost in that first tank).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx> wrote:
> Intake air and coolant are the important items in maintaining proper
engine
> temps. The air flowing over the exterior of the engine pays a pretty
> insignificant role. The main thing is allowing the heat to dissipate
away
> from the engine compartment and the Delorean seems able to handle that
> pretty well. Coolant temps of 220 degrees are a bit high but aren't that
> extreme and I've yet to see a properly tuned DeLorean without a
turbocharger
> that will pre-detonate at 13 degrees BTC ignition timing. >>
> Bruce Benson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 00:19:16 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
YES! I have been experiencing the exact same problem! And I mean EXACTLY!
I've tried lubricants, gaskets ...you name it but nothing seems to work. It
is especially hard to locate the problem because when everything cools down,
it works just as smooth as silk. But "stiction" is definitely the best
description for this ailment I have heard yet. (just a little sticking and
just a little friction) Arthritis of the steering rack maybe? I hope
someone out there has a cure because this one has had me stumped for quite a
while.
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:40 PM
Subject: [DML] Steering rack stiction
> My steering rack is sticking now that it's hot and I'm doing all of my
driving with the air on. It seems when the car is cool, the steering
performs flawlessly, but as it reaches operating temp on 80 degree days, the
steering rack seems to heat up from the radiator and begins to exhibit
stiction. The wheel sticks where ever you tend to put. I've pulled the
pinion cap and loosened the spring tension on the nylon slider by adding 2
custom paper gaskets to raise the pinion cover, but it only delays the
effect and makes the steering a little looser when cold. It's been topped
off with 90wt gear oil. Any one else experience this feature? Any
suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Jim 6147
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:46:07 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ventilation behavior changed
This week I have noticed that when I start my car the ventilation
flaps have to move back into position and there is a normal sounding
vacuum hiss until the flaps are into position. I have had the mode
switch in the Vent position for weeks and I am pretty sure the flaps
remained in position while the car was off.
Is this the sign of a problem or is it normal and i just never
noticed before?
thanks
adam p
16683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 04:30:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance
Have burned my fingers badly enough to blister on another owner's car
(on the intake manifold, believe it or not!) so yes, I've felt hotter.
Am just used to big blocks which never break a sweat. PRV is whole
different world.
Can't recommend bleed line from thermostat housing enough. Makes
filling the system a snap. Guaranteed no problems (provided thermostat
not stuck). Have also rerouted radiator bleed line to a Tee in heater
core return. Never was crazy about downhill run to radiator pipe, but
I guess it works (my pipe now replaced by hose).
Rob Grady sells an all metal radiator for $300 plus.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I hear what you're saying. I'm just recounting what others have said
> to me. For instance, Bill Robertson seemed to think his engine was
> hot, but I was near it right after he arrived, and I didn't think so.
> He'll correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure...;)
> Rich
> #5335
> >
> > It doesn't matter wheather or not you use the automatic bleeder
> kit,
> > or you bleed the system manually. You just need to bleed it. That I
> > would consider to be far more important than air flow across the
> > engine. > >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:34:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torque question / Exhaust
Chris, you missed out the bit about letting them cool down after using
heat..... On our most recent job we had one very stubborn stud which
came out only after apllying heat and then freezer spray.
Otherwise Chris' method worked great.
Martin
Chris wrote:
>I also strongly recomend NOT using any heat unless you really know what you
>are doing. I tried heat and it caused me problems with 2 studs, the other
>10 I used this method and it worked perfectly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 07:43:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear view electric mirrors.
( Please answer privately. Moderator )
I am in the airport in naples right now. i will be home late tonite.
what time did you want to meet on saturday. Do you have an easy way to get to your house. Oh and will the AC person be available. I will pay whatever the going rate is for cold air.
email mme tonite with the number ill call you.
thanx
jordan
elvisnocita@xxxxxx wrote:
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:15:41 -0400
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
Has anyone figured out what the air flow is doing around the rear edge of
the T-panel or around the louvers? I remember reading that lotus added the
louvers for aero reasons. If you put a scoop in the wrong place it could
actually suck air out of the engine compartment rather than feed it in.
Tom M. over on DMCFourm is making a new T-panel for his car with a scoop on
it, I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
Andrei
----- Original Message -----
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
> <SNIP>
>
> Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really cool! An aftermarket
kit
> is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure that it could easily be adapted
for the
> DeLorean. Especially if someone was to perhaps intergrate it into the T
Panel
> on the roof (kinda like the S7). And I'm sure that it wouldn't be a
problem to
> install a snorkle thru the louvers. It's just that with limited visability
thru the rear
> as it is, the pipe would hamper a bit of your vision. Maybe if you made
the
> bottom section of the pipe clear... But I don't know if that would really
even
> help with the angle of the eliptical shaped pipe, or if a strong enough
material
> could be made that didn't discolor with the heat.
>
> Then again, I'm just guessing about the visability problem, based upon my
> own observations. I never drove a Fiero (let alone one with that intake),
and
> the problem of any visability might be overcome with one of those large,
> curved rearview mirrors for trucks that JC Whitney and others sell. I've
had my
> eye on one of those for quite a while.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:02:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ventilation behavior changed
This is interesting from two perspectives.
First, this has just started to happen in my car.
When I start it after it has been standing for a day
or longer, I can hear the vent flaps "moving". No
problems with the air flows and I can move from vent
to a/c to heat and everything works. Just the darn
noise of the opening or closing of the vents when I
start the car - no hissing, however.
The second perspective is that my car's VIN is just
for off of Adam's. Coincidence??
Awaiting an answer.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
--- Adam 16683 <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> This week I have noticed that when I start my car
> the ventilation
> flaps have to move back into position and there is a
> normal sounding
> vacuum hiss until the flaps are into position.
>
> Is this the sign of a problem or is it normal and i
> just never
> noticed before?
>
> thanks
> adam p
> 16683
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:38:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
Picture this:
Dual snorkles snaking through the louvers on the
outside portion of the rear window, meeting in a
centralized common airbox directly above the intake...
Could it work, or would the louvers be too weakened by
the cuts you would have to make in them?
> > Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
> <SNIP>
>
> Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really
> cool! An aftermarket kit
> is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure that it
> could easily be adapted for the
> DeLorean. > -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 17:24:32 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone figured out what the air flow is doing around the rear
edge of
> the T-panel or around the louvers? I remember reading that lotus
added the
> louvers for aero reasons.
<SNIP>
Nope, the louvers were added in for astetic reasons, according to
several books. JZD was touring the Hethel plant where Lotus was
building the DMC-12 prototypes, and completing the engineering work.
While on the tour, JZD saw an Esprit with prototype louvers on the
back, and decided that the DMC-12 must have them (IMO, I agree).
This is a popular example used quite frequently to describe a common
difficulty with the engineering of the car: Constant Change. With the
introduction of rear louvers, Lotus then had to re-engineer the rear
of the car to accept them. Not bad sounding, except when you take
into consideration that the rear was already complete, and now needed
to accept hinges, a latch, side lips, and mounting points for the
struts, that could handle the stress.
As far as keeping the engine cooler? Who knows. Many people attest to
this, but I've no idea what they've based this upon. I can tell you
though that one day when I left work to go home, I noticed a cicada
crawling around on the edge of my engine cover, below the edge of the
rear louver. Taking the car up to around 80+mph, the little insect
was still crawing around. I looking up a couple of seconds later, the
bug was gone. So who knows if he jumped out, or got sucked out. The
only real way to know for certain if the louvers really are a benefit
to the car, is to film one driving fully warmed up with a Infrared
Camera, and the remove the louvers, to see if there is a difference.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 17:27:16 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Uh oh
How do I get the crank pully nut off without disturbing the engine? I
have a head off and I don't want to risk shifting the cylinder liners.
What happens if the liners are disturbed?
Rich
#5335 -MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 19:20:02 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
Was talking to Darren earlier and the timing is not "retarded" but
over-advanced in a stock DMC at idle to clean up the emissions. The vac
solenoid thatcuts off the advance means that on a Ren engine, timing
should be set up with the vac disconnected. In reality it doesn't make a
lot of difference.
Busy playing with timing on a right-hander with Volvo ignition, finding
its "sweet spot" around 8-9 degrees at idle.
Martin
content22207 wrote:
>According to Martin Gutkowski's PRV buddy, my R30 PRV (Renault) should
>be timed 10 degrees. I've tried it at 13, but performance suffers.
>Slightly retarded (by DMC standards) timing and a 40,000 volt spark
>give me a pretty good jump off the line, even though displacement is
>only 2.5 liters.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:26:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
My car also has Bauerle's deflector. The "deflecto-shield" also eliminates gas
fumes/smells from entering the interior.
Shannon Y
VIN 16506
------------
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:02:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
I have never liked the open hole behind the fans that blows directly
on the rack. I have had for many years a deflector I got from
Bauerele Automotive in Radnor, Ohio - 740 595-3348. I trimmed it to
suit me, but it covers the hole nicely and keeps the blowing heat
and crud off the rack. It deflects a lot of heat away from the fuel
tank too. I also serviced the rack with full synthetic oil (75w-90)
which seems to have done the most to ease the steering effort.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:48:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ventilation behavior changed
Oops - I msread Adam's VIN - we are a bit farther
away, but I DO still have the same "problem".
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 13:49:26 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
I had DMCH drain and replace the steering rack lubricant and it made all the difference in the world. But I can't say what the procedure entails.
Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX
jwit6@xxxxxx wrote:
> My steering rack is sticking now that it's hot and I'm doing all of my driving with the air on. It seems when the car is cool, the steering performs flawlessly, but as it reaches operating temp on 80 degree days, the steering rack seems to heat up from the radiator and begins to exhibit stiction. The wheel sticks where ever you tend to put. I've pulled the pinion cap and loosened the spring tension on the nylon slider by adding 2 custom paper gaskets to raise the pinion cover, but it only delays the effect and makes the steering a little looser when cold. It's been topped off with 90wt gear oil. Any one else experience this feature? Any suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 13:51:18 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Venting outside air over engine
Andrie, I pull the coldest air I can from the coolest place I can not being
to concerned about looks. That's from the right rear pontoon. I use a very
simple 2 7/8" flex hose from the bottom of the air filter hosing to the hole
in the pontoon where the hot air valve was.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrei Cular [mailto:acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 8:16 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
Has anyone figured out what the air flow is doing around the rear edge of
the T-panel or around the louvers? I remember reading that lotus added the
louvers for aero reasons. If you put a scoop in the wrong place it could
actually suck air out of the engine compartment rather than feed it in.
Tom M. over on DMCFourm is making a new T-panel for his car with a scoop on
it, I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
Andrei
----- Original Message -----
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
> <SNIP>
>
> Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really cool! An aftermarket
kit
> is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure that it could easily be adapted
for the
> DeLorean. Especially if someone was to perhaps intergrate it into the T
Panel
> on the roof (kinda like the S7). And I'm sure that it wouldn't be a
problem to
> install a snorkle thru the louvers. It's just that with limited visability
thru the rear
> as it is, the pipe would hamper a bit of your vision. Maybe if you made
the
> bottom section of the pipe clear... But I don't know if that would really
even
> help with the angle of the eliptical shaped pipe, or if a strong enough
material
> could be made that didn't discolor with the heat.
>
> Then again, I'm just guessing about the visability problem, based upon my
> own observations. I never drove a Fiero (let alone one with that intake),
and
> the problem of any visability might be overcome with one of those large,
> curved rearview mirrors for trucks that JC Whitney and others sell. I've
had my
> eye on one of those for quite a while.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
>
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:55:43 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
I will try to get photos this weekend for the lists... for some
reason I'm not receiving e-mail consistently :(
This is actually the second attempt at the integrated panel/scoop (I
discovered that a large scoop does not match the subtle lines of the
DMC12). This most recent venture matches the style of the car
perfectly. For now, the scoop is cosmetic. My plan in stage 2 is to
get a brushed or chromed aluminum duct constructed that would take
the air and direct it onto the engine... similar to the McLaren F1.
Sincerely,
Thomas 6921
"Bolt of Lightening" #6921
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone figured out what the air flow is doing around the rear
edge of
> the T-panel or around the louvers? I remember reading that lotus
added the
> louvers for aero reasons. If you put a scoop in the wrong place it
could
> actually suck air out of the engine compartment rather than feed it
in.
>
> Tom M. over on DMCFourm is making a new T-panel for his car with a
scoop on
> it, I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
>
>
>
>
> Andrei
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 11:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
>
>
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael T Twigger
<marktwigger@xxxx>
> > wrote:
> > > Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy
> > <SNIP>
> >
> > Roof vent adapted for the DeLorean would look really cool! An
aftermarket
> kit
> > is available for the Fiero, and I'm sure that it could easily be
adapted
> for the
> > DeLorean. Especially if someone was to perhaps intergrate it into
the T
> Panel
> > on the roof (kinda like the S7). And I'm sure that it wouldn't be
a
> problem to
> > install a snorkle thru the louvers. It's just that with limited
visability
> thru the rear
> > as it is, the pipe would hamper a bit of your vision. Maybe if
you made
> the
> > bottom section of the pipe clear... But I don't know if that
would really
> even
> > help with the angle of the eliptical shaped pipe, or if a strong
enough
> material
> > could be made that didn't discolor with the heat.
> >
> > Then again, I'm just guessing about the visability problem, based
upon my
> > own observations. I never drove a Fiero (let alone one with that
intake),
> and
> > the problem of any visability might be overcome with one of those
large,
> > curved rearview mirrors for trucks that JC Whitney and others
sell. I've
> had my
> > eye on one of those for quite a while.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 19:36:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
With the heads off you are supposed to install blocks with bolts to
hold the liners down. These are included in the special tool kit that
the dealers had. If the liners were to shift you would need to replace
the lower seals.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> How do I get the crank pully nut off without disturbing the engine? I
> have a head off and I don't want to risk shifting the cylinder liners.
>
> What happens if the liners are disturbed?
>
> Rich
> #5335 -MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 23:46:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R30 PRV Timed 10 degrees
You misunderstood: I said I was retarded (hmm, why doesn't that sound
right?), not DMC. Stock DeLorean is ALWAYS advanced more than me -- 13
degrees at idle (I idle about 10 because so little vacuum before
throttle plates. No real effect then so I could probably time with
diaphragm connected. And no, diaphragm doesn't have a hole because I
can suck rotor manually). Jumps close to 30 as soon as solenoid kicks
off. That's why DeLo CPR has vacuum chambers. Need to enrich mess out
of mixture the second those plates crack (talk about predetonation!).
My advance is gradual in sync with throttle plates, maxes around 20-25
degrees.
Stock DMC timing MUST cut into performance. Piston spends a lot more
time pushing against explosion than I do. Even though my displacement
is 11% smaller, have no trouble keeping up.
One of the tricks domestic manufacturers used in late '70's to please
government was increasing spark advance. Yields longer burn time in
cylinder, at expense of horsepower. 1977 460 is stickered 17 degrees,
1978 is stickered 20 degrees. Have moved mine 10-15 (don't fully trust
harmonic balancers after 100,000 miles so my final time set by ear).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Was talking to Darren earlier and the timing is not "retarded" but
> over-advanced in a stock DMC at idle to clean up the emissions. The vac
> solenoid thatcuts off the advance means that on a Ren engine, timing
> should be set up with the vac disconnected. In reality it doesn't
make a
> lot of difference.
>
> Busy playing with timing on a right-hander with Volvo ignition, finding
> its "sweet spot" around 8-9 degrees at idle.
>
> Martin
>
> content22207 wrote:
>
> >According to Martin Gutkowski's PRV buddy, my R30 PRV (Renault) should
> >be timed 10 degrees. I've tried it at 13, but performance suffers.
> >Slightly retarded (by DMC standards) timing and a 40,000 volt spark
> >give me a pretty good jump off the line, even though displacement is
> >only 2.5 liters.
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 00:31:15 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
Wow...I'm glad I didn't push too hard today then. I would have liked
to have had this info earlier though. I've asked many questions on
head gasket replacement and it never came up.
Word is, if I ever want to get that pulley nut off, I'll need an air
impact gun. Home depot sells one for $28.00 that makes 250 ft lbs of
torque. Is that enough? Also, if I hook it to a rented compressor
that makes 150 psi, is that enough to drive the impact gun to 250 ft
lbs?
And my final question today is: I don't believe I moved the liners
while I was fiddling around w/the crank pulley today, everything is
still flush and I didn't see anything move, but if I did shift
something and I re-assembled the engine, and ran it what would the
symptoms be? How concerned about this should I be? Do I now have to
take the engine out and apart?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
> With the heads off you are supposed to install blocks with bolts to
> hold the liners down. These are included in the special tool kit
that
> the dealers had. If the liners were to shift you would need to
replace
> the lower seals.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > How do I get the crank pully nut off without disturbing the
engine? I
> > have a head off and I don't want to risk shifting the cylinder
liners.
> >
> > What happens if the liners are disturbed?
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335 -MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 20:58:07 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
Does the Saleen S7 have dual intakes that go around the engine
compartment and then meet in the center for the air box? because how
can you be able to see what's behind you if it was in the middle?
The Mclaren F1 doesn't have that problem because of the central driving
position.
I like the idea by Pete with a kind of shaker box like the Mustang Mach
1. That would give
a few extra horses im sure.
What if you reversed the right and left side louvers or some kind of mold
to
direct air from the side of the car into the engine compartment?
just a thought
Mark T
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 23:23:31 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Steering rack stiction
Is there any way to drain the rack without removing it?
Jim 6147
"Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>I have never liked the open hole behind the fans that blows directly
>on the rack. I have had for many years a deflector I got from
>Bauerele Automotive in Radnor, Ohio - 740 595-3348. I trimmed it to
>suit me, but it covers the hole nicely and keeps the blowing heat
>and crud off the rack. It deflects a lot of heat away from the fuel
>tank too. I also serviced the rack with full synthetic oil (75w-90)
>which seems to have done the most to ease the steering effort.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
>> My steering rack is sticking now that it's hot and I'm doing all
>of my driving with the air on. >> Thanks,
>> Jim 6147
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